DROPS / 185 / 11

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Knitted jumper with multi-coloured pattern and raglan for men. Size: S - XXXL Piece is knitted in DROPS Merino Extra Fine.

DROPS design: Pattern me-118
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
600-700-750-800-900-1000 g colour 01, off white
250-300-350-350-400-450 g colour 02, black

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group B)” - see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm – or size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 3 mm for rib – or size needed to get 23 stitches and 32 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.
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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 3.10 £ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 3.10 £ /50g
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DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 3.10 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 52.70£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Work the entire pattern in stocking stitch. Choose diagram for your size.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the knitting tension to tighten when working pattern, it is important not to tighten the strands on back side of piece. Switch to a higher needle number when working pattern if the pattern is somewhat tight.

DECREASE TIP:
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 272 stitches) and divide stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 44) = 6.1. In this example knit approx. every 5th and 6th stitch together.

INCREASE TIP:
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, make 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased). Knit yarn over twisted on next round to avoid hole.

RAGLAN:
Decrease for raglan on each side of every A.4 as follows:
Decrease 1 stitch after A.4 as follows: Slip last stitch in A.4, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease 1 stitch before A.4 as follows: Work until 1 stitch remains before A.4, knit the next 2 stitches together (= 1 stitch decreased). I.e. decrease 2 stitches at every A.4 and 8 stitches in total on round.
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JUMPER:
Worked in the round on circular needles. Sleeves are worked in the round on double pointed needles, switch to a short circular needle when needed. Slip the parts together and work yoke in the round.

BODY:
Cast on 248-272-288-300-332-372 stitches on circular needle size 3 mm with Black. Work rib (= knit 2/purl 2). When piece measures 5 cm, switch to circular needle size 4 mm and work 1 round in stocking stitch while decreasing 44-44-48-48-56-60 stitches evenly - read DECREASE TIP = 204-228-240-252-276-312 stitches. Work 1 round as follows: Insert 1 marker in first stitch, knit 101-113-119-125-137-155 stitches, insert 1 marker in next stitch, knit the rest of round.
Markers shows sides of garment. Then work A.1 (= 6 stitches) over all stitches (= 34-38-40-42-46-52 repetitions in width) - read KNITTING TIP. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, repeat A.1a vertically. When piece measures 39-41-41-43-41-43 cm, work A.2 over A.1. When you have worked up to arrow in A.2, work next round as follows: Cast off 4 stitches, work the next 95-107-113-119-131-149 stitches as before, cast off the next 7 stitches, work the next 95-107-113-119-131-149 stitches as before and cast off the last 3 stitches. Piece measures approx. 43-43-43-44-44-44 cm. Put piece aside and work the sleeves.

SLEEVES:
Work in the round on double pointed needles, switch to a short circular needle when needed. Cast on 48-52-56-60-64-64 stitches on double pointed needles size 3 mm. Work rib (= knit 2/purl 2). When piece measures 5 cm, switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work 1 round in stocking stitch while decreasing 6-8-8-10-12-10 stitches evenly = 42-44-48-50-52-54 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread at beginning of round (= mid under sleeve). Work 1 round with black, then work next round as follows: Work 0-1-0-1-2-0 stitches A.3, work A.1 over the next 42-42-48-48-48-54 stitches (= 7-7-8-8-8-9 repetitions), finish with 0-1-0-1-2-0 stitches A.3. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, repeat A.1a. When piece measures 8-10-10-10-8-6 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of marker thread (= 2 stitches increased) - READ INCREASE TIP! Increase like this every 2½-2-1½-1½-1½-1½ cm 15-17-21-23-22-24 times in total = 72-78-90-96-96-102 stitches. Work stitches in A.3 and the increased stitches into pattern A.1.
When piece measures 44-45-43-44-40-41 cm, work A.2 over A.1. When all stitches under sleeve have been increased, work A.2 12-13-15-16-16-17 times in total in width. When you have worked up to arrow in A.2, work next round as follows: Cast off 4 stitches, work the next 65-71-83-89-89-95 stitches as before, cast off the last 3 stitches. Sleeve measures approx. 48-47-45-45-43-43 cm. Knit another sleeve the same way.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were cast off = 320-356-392-416-440-488 stitches. Begin round in transition between right sleeve and back piece. Work as follows: Work A.4 (= 2 stitches, begin at arrow marking your size), continue pattern as before over the next 91-103-109-115-127-145 stitches, A.4 (= back piece), work pattern as before over the next 65-71-83-89-89-95 stitches (= sleeve), A.4, continue pattern as before over the next 91-103-109-115-127-145 stitches, A.4 (= front piece), work pattern as before over the next 65-71-83-89-89-95 stitches (= sleeve). Work 6-4-5-4-10-3 rounds with pattern, then decrease for RAGLAN – see explanation above, every other round 25-29-31-33-33-39 times in total = 120-124-144-152-176-176 stitches. When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, switch to black. Work 1 round in black. Yoke measures approx. 20-22-24-25-27-29 cm. An elevation in the back of neck can be worked to get a better fit so that yoke is somewhat higher in the neck. This elevation can be skipped, to make the neck the same at the front and back. Work elevation in the back of neck or start to work the neck edge if you don’t want an elevation.

ELEVATION IN BACK OF NECK:
Skip this paragraph if you do not want an elevation. Insert 1 marker thread at beginning of round (this marks the beginning of rounds after elevation has been worked).
Work until mid back, insert 1 marker. Begin from right side with black and knit as before until 30-30-34-34-40-40 stitches have been worked past marker, turn, tighten yarn and purl 60-60-68-68-80-80. Turn, tighten yarn and knit 54-54-61-61-72-72, turn, tighten yarn and purl 48-48-54-54-64-64. Turn, tighten yarn and knit 42-42-48-48-56-56, turn, tighten yarn and purl 36-36-42-42-48-48. Turn, tighten yarn and knit 30-30-35-35-40-40, turn, tighten yarn and purl 24-24-28-28-32-32, turn, tighten yarn and work mid back. Cut the yarn. Round now begins at the marker thread, i.e. in the transition between right sleeve and back piece.

NECK EDGE:
On next round decrease as follows: * Knit 40-42-52-56-68-68 and decrease 0-0-8-8-18-16 stitches evenly, work the next 20 stitches together 2 by 2 (= 10 stitches decreased) *, work from *-* 2 times in total = 100-104-108-116-120-124 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm. Work next round as follows: * Knit 2, purl 2, knit 1, make 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), purl 2, knit 2, make 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), purl 1 *, work from *-* until 0-4-8-16-0-4 stitches remain, work rib (= knit 2/purl 2) over the remaining stitches = 120-124-128-136-144-148 stitches. Work yarn overs twisted in rib (i.e. knit 2/purl 2) on next round to avoid holes. When rib measures 3 cm, cast off knit over knit and purl over purl.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew opening under each sleeve in front loop of outermost stiches.

Diagram

= black
= off white



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 185-11) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (21)

Marco 04.01.2020 - 21:35:

Hartelijk dank voor uw hulp. Ik wilde ook nog vragen over de raglan minderingen. Ik weet hoe je moet minderen, maar deze raglan minderingen begrijp ik niet helemaal, bv. de 2 steken A4 beginnen met het achterpand, en stel ik heb een markeerdraad voor deze 2 steken, je moet dan tot 1 steek voor A4 breien en dan 2 steken samen. dan 1 steek van A4 afhalen en 1 st. breien en dan de steek overhalen, waar moet je de markeerdraad dan zetten, welke steken zijn dan nu de 2 st. van A4?

DROPS Design 08.01.2020 kl. 09:43:

Dag Marco,

Je mindert steeds aan beide kanten van A.4 zoals beschreven bij 'RAGLAN' A.4 bestaat uit 2 steken en als je voor A.4 mindert brei je tot er 1 steek over is voor A.4 (Als je een markeerdraad in het midden van A.4 hebt, dan zou je dus nog 2 steken voor de markeerdraad hebben.)

Miep Van De Graaf 26.12.2019 - 16:32:

Voor patroon me-118 voor maat M 700 gram hoofdkleur en 300 gram bijkleur besteld. Trui is klaar en ruim 250 gram hoofdkleur en ruim 50 gram bijkleur over. Jammer , voorbeeld trui kan toch gewogen? Zodat zulke afwijkingen niet voor hoeven komen?

Marco 25.12.2019 - 13:55:

Voor patroon A1 a. zit er 5 rijen tussen het gebruik van de zwarte garen. is het goed om de zwarte draad elke rij vertikaal mee te nemen?

DROPS Design 26.12.2019 kl. 16:08:

Dag Marco,

Ja, je kan hem na elke toer in de hoogte meenemen. Als je hem afknipt en de uiteinden weg moet werken, heb je uiteindelijk meer af te werken. Zorg er bij het meenemen in de hoogte wel voor dat je de zwarte draad verwerkt achter de steken, door hem om de witte draad te doen.

Judith 20.11.2019 - 11:01:

Ich habe dieses Modell für meinen 17Jährigen Sohn (1,90 m groß und sehr schlank) in L gestrickt. Die habe die angegebene Wollmenge bestellt, aber 150 gr weniger natur und 100 gr weniger schwarz benötigt, obwohl ich die Ärmel gut 10 cm länger stricken musste. Der Pullover ist wunderschön geworden, vor allem, weil ich die Fair Isle Technik gewählt habe, heißt, ich habe die zwei Fäden hinter jeder Masche gekreuzt.

Carla 07.11.2019 - 09:17:

Hey jeg vil gerne stikker den her til min bror, men det en julegave så kan ikke prøve den på ham derfor er lidt i tvivl om størrelsen, han er 98cm round om brystet uden på en t shirt er bedst at tage S ller M ?

DROPS Design 11.11.2019 kl. 11:14:

Hei Carla. Det er veldig personlig hvordan et plagg vil passe best. Noen ønsker kroppsnære plagg, men andre ønsker litt mer romslighet. Kommer man til å bruke genseren mye under en ytterjakke eller bruke den med en annen genser under? Kanskje best å finne ut av hva din bror liker best. mvh DROPS design

Sebastian 26.10.2019 - 22:43:

Hej Finns det något beskrivning hur man gör utan rundsticka? Jag föredrar vanliga stickor och skulle då vilja veta hur detta mönster ska göras.

DROPS Design 28.10.2019 kl. 12:44:

Hej, ja se F&Q spørgsmål nr 18 her i opskriften, her forklarer vi hvordan man kan gøre det :)

Esther Strømme 22.09.2019 - 09:00:

Hei, jeg har lyst til å strikke denne ganseren i størrelse herre M i Alpaka fra drops. Hvordan tilpasse oppskriften? Hvor mye garn?

DROPS Design 25.09.2019 kl. 08:16:

Hej Esther, Hvis du vælger DROPS Lima fra samme garngruppe B (indeholder også Alpaca), så får du samme strikkefasthed. God fornøjelse!

Irene Jensen 17.05.2019 - 15:02:

Kan man ikke få en opskrift til store mænd der er over xxxl da jeg savner en i xxxxxxxltil at strikke

DROPS Design 20.05.2019 kl. 08:21:

Hei Irene. Beklager, men oppskriftene våre går kun opp til XXXL. Du må gjerne tilpasse dem andre mål selv, men vi har dessverre ikke mulighet til å gjøre dette for deg. Hilsen DROPS

Will 05.05.2019 - 18:13:

Wat wordt er bedoelt met de raglan (iedere andere naald ) is dat elke naald of om de naald . Als ik iedere naald doe wordt het veel te nauw. Heb de vraag al eerder gesteld maar kom er niet uit.

DROPS Design 05.05.2019 kl. 19:26:

Dag Will,

Met iedere andere naald wordt om de naald bedoeld, dus de ene naald wel en de andere naald niet.

Åshild Samuelsen 05.03.2019 - 16:15:

Vil strikke en herregenser i bare fabel. Finn ikke mønster som passe til å strikke med bare fabel. Mannen måler 98 cm rundt brystet. Hvor mange masker må jeg legge opp. Vil strikke en tynn fin sommergenser. Tenker å strikke med pinne nr 3

DROPS Design 08.03.2019 kl. 09:36:

Hei Åshild. Alle gensere som strikkes med garn fra garngruppe A har samme stikkefasthet som Fabel, så du kan helt fint bytte garn. Feks oppskrift 135-26. Det er strikkefastheten din som avgjør hvor mange masker du må legge opp får å få et angitt cm-mål. Du må gange det ønskede vidde-målet med strikkefastheten din for å finne ut hvor mange masker dette blir. Feks: si at du får 24 masker i bredden på pinne 3 = 10 cm. hvis du da vil ha en vidde på 98 cm ganger du 98 med 2,4 = 235 masker. God fornøyelse

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