DROPS / 64 / 8

Beachside Garden by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS short top with crochet flower squares in Safran

Tags: floral, lace, square, tops,
  • Beachside Garden / DROPS 64-8 - Knitted DROPS short top with crochet flower squares in Safran
  • Beachside Garden / DROPS 64-8 - Knitted DROPS short top with crochet flower squares in Safran
DROPS design: Pattern no E-070
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Size: S - M - L
Materials: DROPS Safran
150-150-150 g colour no 01, light pink

DROPS straight needles size 3 mm and crochet hook size 3.5 mm.
DROPS mother-of-pearl button, no 521: 5 pieces

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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from 1.15 £ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 1.15 £ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
KNITTING TENSION: 28 sts x 36 rows on needle size 3 and pattern = 10 x 10 cm. Remember needle size is only a guide.

Crochet tension: A flower square worked on hook size 3.5 mm with Safran = approx. 9.5 x 9.5 cm.

PATTERN: Pattern is divisible by 2. Row 1: * slip one st as if to K, K 1, pass the slipped st over 1 K and leave the slipped st on left needle, K the slipped st *, repeat from *-*. Row 2: Work all sts in stocking st seen from RS. Repeat 1st and 2nd row.

Garter st: 1 ridge = 2 rows. Row 1: K all sts, 2nd row: K all sts.

Knitting tip: All dec are done on RS of piece inside 1 edge st that is worked in garter st.

Dec 2 st as follows: After 1 edge st: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, pass slipped st over 2 K tog.
Before 1 edge st: K 3 tog.

Dec 1 st as follows: After 1 edge st: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, pass slipped st over 1 K.
Before 1 edge st: K 2 tog.

Crochet flower square:
Work 8 ch on hook size 3.5 mm with light pink and form a ring with 1 sl st.

ROW 1: * 1 tr (first tr is replaced with 3 ch) 2 ch *, repeat from *-* 8 times, finish with 1 sl st in first tr.

ROW 2: * 4 dtr (first dtr is replaced with 4 ch), around ch-space, 2 ch *, repeat from *-* 8 times, finish with 1 sl st in first tr.

ROW 3: * work 4 dtr tog (first dtr is replaced with 4 ch) = wait with last YO and pull through in each dtr until all dtr are worked, YO and pull YO through all sts on hook (work 1 dtr in each of the dtr from previous row), 6 ch, 1 tr around the 2 ch from previous row, 6 ch, * repeat from *-* 8 times, finish with 1 sl st in first dtr-group.

ROW 4: Work sl sts until middle of ch-space, 1 ch, 1 dc around ch-space, * 5 ch, 1 dc around next ch-space, 5 ch, 1 tr around next ch-space, 10 ch, 1 tr around next ch-space (= corner), 5 ch, 1 dc around next ch-space *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total, then 5 ch, 1 dc around next ch-space, 5 ch, 1 tr around next ch-space, 10 ch, 1 tr around next ch-space (= corner), 5 ch, finish with 1 sl st in first dc.

Top: Work 8-9-10 flower squares - see explanation above. Sew them tog in to a long strip - sew edge to edge in outer loops of edge sts. Pick up 220-244-272 sts (incl 2 edge sts in each side towards mid front) on needle size 3 mm with light pink in ch-row at the top of the crochet strip - pick up sts with 1 strand to get a nice transition. Insert 1 marker in piece after 55-61-68 sts and 1 marker after 165-183-204 sts. Work Pattern - see explanation above, but work the outermost 2 sts in each side in garter st. Remember the knitting tension! At the same time after 1 cm, inc at markers in each side: 2 sts 5 times every 7th-8th-10th row - inc 2 sts next to each other and work them in pattern so that pattern still fits = 240-264-292 sts. When piece measures 19-21-23 cm, work next row as follows: 57-62-68 sts front piece, cast off 8-10-12 sts for armhole, 110-120-132 sts back piece, cast off 8-10-12 sts for armhole, 57-62-68 sts front piece. Now finish each part separately.

Right front piece: = 57-62-68 sts. Then cast off for armhole every other row - see Knitting tip: 2 sts 3-5-6 times, 1 st 6-5-6 times = 45-47-50 sts. When piece measures 23-24-26 cm, cast off 24-26-29 sts towards mid front for neck line. Continue to cast off towards the neck on every other row - see Knitting tip: 2 sts 3 times, 1 st 3 times = 12-12-12 sts remain on each shoulder. Then work Pattern, but work 1 st in each side in garter st. Cast off when piece measures 37-40-43 cm.

Left front piece: Work as right front piece but reversed.

Back piece: 110-120-132 sts. Then cast off for armholes as on front piece = 86-90-96 sts. When piece measures 23-24-26 cm, cast off the middle 44-48-54 sts for neck line. Continue to cast off towards the neck on every other row - see Knitting tip: 2 sts 3 times, 1 st 3 times = 12-12-12 sts remain on each shoulder. Then work Pattern, but work 1 st in each side in garter st. Cast off when piece measures 37-40-43 cm.

Assembly: Sew tog straps on shoulder. Crochet around the armholes on hook size 3.5 mm with light pink: 1 row with dc - inside 1 edge st. Work 5 buttonholes evenly down along right band - work first buttonhole at the top, work the last before flower squares beg. Work - inside 2 edge sts - beg at the top as follows: ROW 1: 5 ch (= 1 buttonhole), skip 1 cm, work dc until next buttonhole. ROW 2: Work 4 dc around ch-space (= buttonhole) and work sl sts between buttonholes. After 2nd row: Continue to work dc around the neck line, down along left front piece and around the entire flower row. Sew on buttons.

Diagram

diagram measurements
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 64-8) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (37)

country flag Irene 21.07.2021 - 17:23:

No consigo que me salga el motivo del patrón. Deslizo 1 pt de derecho (P1), hago 1 derecho (P2), deslizo P2 sobre P1 y mantengo P2 en la aguja izqda y lo tejo de derecho. En la siguiente vuelta tejo de revés, pero no se me parece al punto de la imagen... ¿Es posible que P1 haya que deslizarlo de revés (es decir, metiendo la aguja derecha en P1 de arriba a abajo y no de abajo a arriba) en vez de derecho? ¿Cómo se harían los aumentos sin que se vea afectado el motivo del patrón? Gracias!

country flag Irene 21.07.2021 - 17:17:

Hola! No consigo que el cuadrado con flor me salga de las medidas que dice el patrón (9,5x9,5cm). Tejo bastante apretado y con el ganchillo de 3,5 mm me sale de unos 11,5x11,5 cm... ¿Es posible que el tamaño del ganchillo esté incorrecto? Gracias!

user icon DROPS Design 21.07.2021 kl. 21:58:

Hola Irene, si es posible. El tamaño de la aguja de ganchillo es orientativo. Cambie a un tamaño de aguja de ganchillo más pequeño. Buen trabajo!

country flag Irene 20.07.2021 - 12:20:

Hola! En el patrón del cuadrado con flor, fila 3, se dice que se haga "1 p.a.d. dentro del arco de 2 p.de cad. de la fila anterior". Sin embargo, en el vídeo explicativo en vez de 1 p.a.d. se hace un p.a... ¿Cuál de los dos puntos (p.a. o p.a.d.) hay que hacer en la fila 3? Muchas gracias!

user icon DROPS Design 21.07.2021 kl. 09:22:

Hola Irene, debe ser punto alto (p.a.) en este lugar. Hay un error en la versión española. Lo corregiremos. Buen trabajo!

country flag LAPALUS Christiane 29.05.2021 - 13:35:

Erreur sur le nombre de mailles devant 57 mailles diminuer 5x2 mailles + 6x1maille = 16 mailles 57 mailles -16 mailles = 41 mailles et non 45 mailles

user icon DROPS Design 31.05.2021 kl. 08:37:

Bonjour Mme Lapalus, le nombre de mailles est juste, mais le nombre de mailles à diminuer était inversé, la correction a été faite, merci pour votre retour. Bon tricot!

country flag Sabine 01.02.2021 - 23:26:

Bonjour, Comment s'appelle ce point fantaisie SVP, est-ce qu'il porte un nom ? Il n'y a pas de vidéo pour ce point ? Point fantaisie : (sur un nombre de mailles multiple de 2) R 1 : *glisser 1 m à l'end, 1 m end, passer la m glissée par dessus la m tricotée, puis la tricoter à l'end* répéter de * à* R 2 : à l'envers Répéter les rangs 1 et 2

user icon DROPS Design 02.02.2021 kl. 10:23:

Bonjour Sabine, s'il porte un nom, nous ne le connaissons pas, désolés. Nous n'avons pas encore de vidéo sur ce point. Tricotez bien comme indiqué au 1er rang par ex: glissez 1 m comme pour la tricoter à l'endroit, tricotez la maille suivante à l'endroit, avec l'aiguille gauche, passez la maille glissée par-dessus la maille tricotée, et tricotez maintenant cette maille à l'endroit. Répétez ces 2 mailles tout le long du rang, sur l'envers, tricotez à l'envers. Bon tricot!

country flag Linda Palmer 16.08.2020 - 22:20:

The pattern in the knitting direction consists of two stitches. There is no mention of how to do the increases. If I have a marker at 55 stitches, (odd number) how do I increase , breaking up the two-stitch pattern of: “S1, K1, PSSO, leaving it on the left needle then knit?” There is much information regarding the decreases, but none on the increases.

user icon DROPS Design 17.08.2020 kl. 09:10:

Dear Mrs Palmer, you first slip 1 stitch as if to purl, then knit the next stitch, then pass the slipped stitch back onto left needle and knit this stitch = you still have 2 stitches. Repeat all the row. Happy knitting!

country flag Giovanna 11.08.2020 - 22:00:

Cortesemente vorrei sapere come riprendere le maglie dai quadrati ad uncinetto per poi lavorare 220 punti a maglia, non ho trovato un video esplicativo. Grazie per la disponibilità

user icon DROPS Design 12.08.2020 kl. 10:08:

Buongiorno Giovanna. Riprende le maglie nelle catenelle dei quadrati sottostanti. Può aiutarsi con un uncinetto, puntandolo nelle catenella, prendendo il filo e mettendo poi il filo sul ferro. Buon lavoro!

country flag House 30.06.2020 - 16:41:

Je tricote la taille S du modèle. j'en suis au moment où je dois partager le travail , donc à 29 CMS de hauteur totale. je lis un peu plus loin qu'il faut tricoter chaque partie séparément. ok. et horreur, un peu plus loin, je lis qu'il faut rabattre pour l'encolure à 26 CMS de hauteur totale! Est-ce que j'aurais dû rabattre pour l'encolure avant de séparer le travail? Je ne comprends pas! Merci de m'éclairer.

user icon DROPS Design 30.06.2020 kl. 18:36:

Bonjour Mme House, et oops faute de frappe, en taille S, il fallait lire 19 cm pour la division de l'ouvrage - correction faite. Vous continuez ensuite chaque partie séparément et rabattez pour l'encolure à 23 cm. Désolée pour cette erreur. Bonne continuation!

country flag SusanneH 09.06.2020 - 10:33:

Danke für die Erläuterung zum Muster von 64-8. Um sicher zu gehen: Wenn ich wie zum linksstricken abheben, habe ich dann den Faden VOR der Arbeit? Nochmals Danke!

user icon DROPS Design 09.06.2020 kl. 13:32:

Liebe SusanneH, Faden muss immer hinter sein. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag SusanneH 08.06.2020 - 20:04:

Wenn ich dem Muster folge, sieht es nicht aus, wie auf dem Bild. Muss ich die übergezogene Masche von der linken Nadel rechts oder rechtsverschränkt abstricken? Letzteres sieht eher aus wie auf dem Bild, aber nicht genau. Könnte es ein kurzes Video dazu geben?

user icon DROPS Design 09.06.2020 kl. 09:56:

Liebe SusanneH, die 1. Masche wie beim links abheben, die 2. Masche rechts stricken, dann die abgehobene Maschen über die 1. Masche ziehen, und diese Masche wieder auf linken Nadeln um diese Masche "normal" rechts zu stricken, dh nicht verschränkt sondern in den vorderen Glied der Masche. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

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