DROPS / 183 / 12

Woodland Walk by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper with raglan, high collar and A-shape, knitted top down. Size: S - XXXL Piece is knitted in 1 strand DROPS Alpaca and 1 strand DROPS Kid-Silk.

  • Woodland Walk / DROPS 183-12 - Knitted jumper with raglan, high collar and A-shape, knitted top down. Size: S - XXXL Piece is knitted in 1 strand DROPS Alpaca and 1 strand DROPS Kid-Silk.
  • Woodland Walk / DROPS 183-12 - Knitted jumper with raglan, high collar and A-shape, knitted top down. Size: S - XXXL Piece is knitted in 1 strand DROPS Alpaca and 1 strand DROPS Kid-Silk.
  • Woodland Walk / DROPS 183-12 - Knitted jumper with raglan, high collar and A-shape, knitted top down. Size: S - XXXL Piece is knitted in 1 strand DROPS Alpaca and 1 strand DROPS Kid-Silk.
DROPS design: Pattern z-793
Yarn group A + A or C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
300-350-350-400-450-500 g colour 7815, green/turquoise
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
125-125-150-150-175-200 g colour 19, dark green

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group A)” - see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 5 mm – or size needed to get 17 stitches and 22 rows in stocking stitch with 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands) = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 4.5 mm – or size needed to get 18 stitches and 23 rows in stocking stitch with 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands) = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.
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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Alpaca
from 3.20 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 3.80 £ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 3.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 3.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

DECREASE/INCREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to decrease/increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 96 stitches) and divide stitches by number of decreased/increases to be done (e.g. 12) = 8. 
I.e. in this example knit approx. every 7th and 8th stitch together when decreasing.
when increasing make 1 yarn over after approx. every 8th stitch, on next round knit yarn over twisted to avoid holes.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

RAGLAN:
Increase for raglan on each side of A.2.
Increase 1 stitch on each side of A.2 as follows (= 8 increased stitches per round with increase).
Work until A.2, make 1 yarn over, work A.2, make 1 yarn over. On next round knit yarns over twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sides of body):
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), 1 yarn over. On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP:
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.
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JUMPER:
Worked in the round on circular needle, top down from mid back. An elevation in the back of neck can be worked to get a better fit so that yoke is somewhat higher in the neck. This elevation can be skipped, to make the neck the same at the front and back - see explanation on elevation in pattern. After yoke work body in the round on circular needle. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 96-96-99-102-105-111 stitches on circular needle size 4.5 mm with 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Knit 1 round. Work A.1 (= 3 stitches) in the round until piece measures 16 cm. Knit 1 round while decreasing
12-8-5-3-2-3 stitches evenly - read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 84-88-94-99-103-108 stitches. Purl 1 round. Knit 1 round while increasing 2-2-12-11-11-10 stitches evenly = 86-90-106-110-114-118 stitches. Purl 1 round. Now work elevation in the back of neck or start to work the yoke if you don’t want an elevation.

ELEVATION IN BACK OF NECK:
Skip this paragraph if you do not want an elevation.
Insert 1 marker at beginning of round = mid back. Begin from right side and knit 11-11-12-13-13-14 past marker, turn, tighten yarn and purl 22-22-24-26-26-28. Turn, tighten yarn and knit 33-33-36-39-39-42, turn, tighten yarn and purl 44-44-48-52-52-56. Turn, tighten yarn and knit 55-55-60-65-65-70, turn, tighten yarn and purl 66-66-72-78-78-84, turn, tighten yarn and knit until mid back.

YOKE:
Insert a marker here. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
Switch to circular needle size 5 mm and insert a marker thread at beginning of round (= mid back). Work pattern as follows: Knit 5-6-10-11-12-13 (= half back piece), A.2 (= 16 stitches), knit 1 (= sleeve), A.2, knit 10-12-20-22-24-26 (= front piece), A.2, knit 1 (= sleeve), A.2, knit 5-6-10-11-12-13.
Continue pattern like this, AT THE SAME TIME increase for RAGLAN - see explanation above (= 8 stitches increased on round). Increase like this every other round 21-24-25-27-30-32 times = 254-282-306-326-354-374 stitches. After all increases for raglan continue size S with 2 rounds in stocking stitch and pattern without increase for raglan, then continue in all sizes as follows:
Piece measures 20-22-23-25-27-29 cm from marker. If the piece is shorter than this, continue with pattern as before without increasing more stitches until piece have the correct measurements. Work next round as follows (continue pattern as before): Work 36-40-42-46-50-54 stitches (= half back piece), slip the next 55-61-69-71-77-79 stitches on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitches on needle (= under sleeve), work the next 72-80-84-92-100-108 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 55-61-69-71-77-79 stitches on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitches on needle (= under sleeve), work the remaining 36-40-42-46-50-54 stitches (= half back piece).

BODY:
= 156-172-184-200-220-240 stitches. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE! Insert a marker thread in each side (= the middle of the new stitches cast-on under each sleeve = 3-3-4-4-5-6 new stitches on each side of marker thread).
Continue in the round with stocking stitch and continue A.2 over the 10-10-7-8-8-9 stitches in the remaining pattern on front/back piece but on every other row make 1 yarn over at the edge of every A.2 (= towards mid front and mid back) and knit 2 together inside every A.2 (towards the sides). Number of stitches will stay the same but stitches in A.2 will gradually disappear and there will be more stitches in stocking stitch. When all stitches in A.2 are gone, continue with stocking stitch over all stitches, AT THE SAME TIME on first round increase 1 stitch on each side of marker thread in each side – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 14th-14th-14th-14th-12th-12th round 4-4-4-4-5-5 times = 172-188-200-216-240-260 stitches. When piece measures 36-36-37-37-37-37 cm, increase 14-10-13-15-12-16 stitches evenly = 186-198-213-231-252-276 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm. Work A.1 in the round for 8 cm. Cast off by knitting. Piece measures approx. 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE: 
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Slip the 55-61-69-71-77-79 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles size 5 mm and cast in addition on 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitch mid under sleeve = 61-67-77-79-87-91 stitches on needles. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the new stitches under sleeve – NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Work in stocking stitch in the round at the same time decrease stitches in A.2 the same way as on body (number of stitches stays the same). When stitches in A.2 have been decreased, work stocking stitch over all stitches. When piece measures 6 cm in all sizes, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 6th-5th-3rd-3rd-3rd-2nd round 12-13-18-18-20-22 times in total = 37-41-41-43-47-47 stitches. When piece measures 36-35-34-33-32-31 cm, increase 5-4-4-2-1-1 stitches evenly = 42-45-45-45-48-48 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm. Work A.1 over all stitches. When piece measures 42-41-40-39-38-37 cm, cast off all stitches by knitting. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves.

Diagram

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 183-12) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (18)

country flag Anna 02.09.2020 - 20:07:

Mój pierwszy wzór od góry do dołu. Wyszło pięknie. Ładnie się układa.

country flag Pat Miller 13.07.2020 - 12:17:

Thank you once again for your answer - very helpful. 🙂

country flag Pat Miller 10.07.2020 - 18:47:

Many thanks for your last answer. I got 40 cm cable needles. I have another puzzle to do with increasing and decreasing 'evenly' at the neck. What does 'evenly' mean? I can't see how this relates to the TIP which only refers to 2 stitches either side of the marker. Is the increase/decrease meant to happen at regular intervals on the knit round, e.g. 12 stitches added at intervals , or are they to be added either side of the marker? Many thanks again, Pat

user icon DROPS Design 13.07.2020 kl. 08:28:

Dear Mrs Miller, evenly means they should have worked distributed on the whole round - read more how to here. Happy knitting!

country flag Pat Miller 23.06.2020 - 12:00:

Many thanks for your answer to my query about the 40 cm cable. Would a 60 cm circular needle be too long to use instead of a 40 cm one? I have 60 cm cables. Again, thanks. Pat

user icon DROPS Design 23.06.2020 kl. 16:14:

Dear Mrs Miller, a 60 cm cable needle might be too long for the cast on edge and neck edge - it might also be quite tricky to work magic loop with a 60 cm but it's not impossible neither, you might try. Happy knitting!

country flag Pat Miller 23.06.2020 - 01:27:

Hi, I'm a little puzzled. The pattern asks for DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm). I can't see 40 cm needles referred to anywhere in the instructions. I don't have a 40 cm circular needle cable or needles and don't want to buy them if I don't have to. Could you please advise. Many thanks, Pat

user icon DROPS Design 23.06.2020 kl. 09:14:

Dear Mrs Miller, you will use the smaller (40 cm) needle for cast on and the first cm on yoke before you get enough stitches to use a larger one. If you already have a long one and do not want to buy another one, you can use instead the magic loop technique until there are enough stitches to fit the cable and work in the round as "normal". Happy knitting!

country flag Karin Neumann 25.11.2019 - 07:46:

Hallo liebes Team, hätte da mal eine Frage zum hohen Kragen, dieser wird (angezogen) NICHT nach aussen gestülpt?? da ja sonst das Muster innen wäre? Sondern nach INNEN? oder hab ich da einen Denkfehler....

user icon DROPS Design 25.11.2019 kl. 10:41:

Liebe Frau Neumann, A.1 wird so wie gezeigt gestrickt, wenn der Kragen dann gefaltet/gestüpelt wird, sieht mann A.1 von der Rückseite. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Silvia 03.10.2019 - 12:39:

Buongiorno, il convertitore non mi indica come come sostituire i due filati con uno soltanto. Sarebbe possibile utilizzare un filo di cotton merino? Grazie per l'attenzione Silvia

user icon DROPS Design 03.10.2019 kl. 13:45:

Buongiorno Silvia, per questo modello può usare 2 capi di un filato del gruppo A o 1 capo di un filato del gruppo C. Cotton Merino appartiene al gruppo B : può comunque provare a fare un campione e vedere se corrisponde a quello indicato. Buon lavoro!

country flag Gunilla 16.02.2019 - 20:27:

Kan jag sticka denna modell enbart i drops kid silk?

user icon DROPS Design 21.02.2019 kl. 08:13:

hei Gunilla. Ja du vil nok kunne strikke denne med 2 tråder Kid-Silk. Vi anbefaler likevel at du lager en strikkeprøve så du er sikker på at strikkefastheten din stemmer med oppskriften. God fornøyelse

country flag Stéphanie 24.09.2018 - 15:23:

Je suis en train de faire ce modèle et je bloque apères la mise en attente des mailles des manches. Je ne comprends pas où enlever les mailles de A2 et où faire le jeté. J’ai procédé comme suit : 1 jeté, les 2 premières mailles de A2 ensemble, ...., les 2 dernières mailles de A2 ensemble, 1 jeté. Je fais cela tous les 2 rangs sur les 4 diagrammes A2 ( dos et devants). Pouvez vous me dire si j’ai bien compris? Merci de votre aide

user icon DROPS Design 25.09.2018 kl. 09:04:

Bonjour Stéphanie, vous faites bien 1 jeté avant le 1er A.2 sur le côté, vous tricotez ensuite les mailles suivantes et vous diminuez 2 m au milieu sous la manche (au niveau du marqueur), vous tricotez le A.2 suivant et faites 1 jeté juste après = vous diminuez 2 m et vous augmentez 2 m soit 4 m au total augmentées/diminuées sur le tour. A.2 va disparaître progressivement car on diminue le nombre de mailles au milieu sous la manche et on augmente le nombre de mailles jersey du dos/devant. Bon tricot!

Rikma 20.09.2018 - 21:05:

Thank you for your quick response. I will give it another try.

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