Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
= knit from the right side | |
= purl from the right side | |
= slip 1 stitch, knit 2 stitches, pass the slipped stitch over | |
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over | |
= no stitch, skip this square |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
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Knitted jumper with cables and raglan, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Nepal.
DROPS 181-6 |
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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round): 1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round. RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth): 1 ridge = Knit 2 rows. PATTERN: See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side. RAGLAN: Increase to raglan on each side of A.1 (= 8 increased stitches per increase round). Increase by making 1 yarn over, on the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes. DECREASE TIP: Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 2 stitches (marker thread sits in the middle of these stitches), knit the next 2 stitches together. ---------------------------------------------------------- The piece is worked in the round with circular needle from mid back, top down. JUMPER: Cast on 66-66-70-76-82-86 stitches with circular needle size 5.5 mm and Nepal. Work 2 RIDGES – see description above. The beginning of the round = mid back. The next round is worked as follows: Knit 13-13-14-16-17-18 stitches, AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 2-2-2-2-4-6 stitches evenly over these stitches, *1 yarn over, knit 1 *, work from *-* 6 times in total, knit 28-28-30-32-36-38 stitches, AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 2-2-2-4-6-10 stitches evenly over theses stitches, *1 yarn over, knit 1 *, work from *-* 6 times in total, knit 13-13-14-16-17-18 stitches, AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 2-2-2-2-4-6 stitches evenly over these stitches = 84-84-88-96-108-120 stitches. Knit 1 round, the yarn overs are knitted twisted to prevent holes. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Work the next round as follows: Knit 10-10-11-13-16-19 stitches (= half the back piece), A.1 (= 9 stitches), knit 4 stitches (= sleeve), A.1 (= 9 stitches), knit 20-20-22-26-32-38 stitches (= front piece), A.1, knit 4 stitches (= sleeve), A.1, knit 10-10-11-13-16-19 stitches (= half the back piece). Continue with this pattern, at the same time as you increase 1 stitch on each side of A.1 to raglan – SEE DESCRIPTION ABOVE. Increase every 2nd round a total of 17-20-22-24-25-26 times. After all the increases, there are 220-244-264-288-308-328 stitches on the needle. Continue with pattern and stocking stitch (without increases) until the piece measures 18-21-23-25-26-28 cm from the cast-on edge mid front. Work the next round as follows: Work 32-35-38-42-46-50 stitches (= half the back piece), place the next 46-52-56-60-62-64 stitches on 1 thread (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-8-8-8-10 new stitches on the needle (= under the sleeve), work 64-70-76-84-92-100 stitches (= front piece), place the next 46-52-56-60-62-64 stitches on 1 thread (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-8-8-8-10 new stitches on the needle (= under the sleeve) and work the remaining 32-35-38-42-46-50 stitches (= half the back piece). BODY: = 140-152-168-184-200-220 stitches. Continue in the round with stocking stitch and A.1 over the 9 middle stitches in each side (under the sleeves). Insert 1 marker here, the piece is now measured from here. When the piece measures 3 cm increase 1 stitch on each side of A.1 in each side (= 4 stitches increased). Increase every 5 cm a total of 5 times = 160-172-188-204-220-240 stitches. When the piece measures 28-27-27-27-28-28 cm place the stitches for the front piece on a thread, now you only work the stitches on the back piece (= 80-86-94-102-110-120 stitches). Continue with stocking stitch with 3 stitches garter stitch in each side. When the piece measures 36-35-35-35-36-36 cm (the split measures 8 cm) work 3 RIDGES back and forth – see description above. Then cast off. Place the stitches from the front piece back on the needle and work in the same way as the back piece. SLEEVE: The piece is worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles. Place the 46-52-56-60-62-64 stitches from the thread in the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 5.5 mm and, in addition, cast on 6-6-8-8-8-10 new stitches mid under the sleeve = 52-58-64-68-70-74 stitches on the needle. Insert one marker thread in the middle of these new stitches – The piece is now measured from here! Work stocking stitch in the round. AT THE SAME TIME after 3 cm decrease 2 stitches mid under the sleeve –READ DECREASE TIP. Decrease every 4-3-2-2-2-1½ cm a total of 10-12-15-16-16-17 times = 32-34-34-36-38-40 stitches. When the piece measures 40-38-36-35-35-35 cm knit 1 round where you increase 4-5-5-6-7-8 stitches evenly on round = 36-39-39-42-45-48 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 5 mm and work rib, knit 1/ purl 2. Continue with rib for 7 cm, then cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The sleeve measures approx. 47-45-43-42-42-42 cm. Work the other sleeve in the same way. ASSEMBLY: Sew the openings under the sleeves. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogues and 11422 patterns - 11422 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (17)
Veronique wrote:
Bonjour. Je suis en train de terminer le pull en DROPS BIG MERINO. Les côtes mousses du devant et du dos se replient systématiquement et spontanément vers le haut du tricot. Que faire pour qu elles restent en place ? Merci
06.12.2020 - 09:58DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Véronique, vous pouvez laver le pull (en suivant bien les consignes de l'étiquette, du nuancier ainsi que ces généralités) et le faire sécher bien à plat, avec des épingles si besoin pour maintenir la bordure bien à plat. Bon tricot!
07.12.2020 - 08:24Eva-Lena wrote:
Hur stickar man flätan på rundsticka? Mönstret verkar vara för vanliga stickning med fram och baksida.
16.08.2020 - 15:15DROPS Design answered:
Hej Eva -Lena. Mönstret är skrivet för att sticka runt på rundsticka. Du stickar flätan enligt diagrammet och alla varv i diagrammet är sett från rätsidan. Lycka till!
17.08.2020 - 10:48Marie wrote:
Hej. I diagrammet står att ett kryss är = avigmaska från rätsidan, rätmaska från avigsidan. Men hela mönstret stickas väl från rätsidan? Eller tänker jag fel? /Marie
23.11.2019 - 11:42DROPS Design answered:
Hei Mari. Du tenker riktig. Diagramteksten henger nok igjen fra jakken som er lik genseren, og jakken strikkes frem og tilbake. Vi skal få slettet den unødvendige teksten. Takk for at du gjorde oss oppmerksom på dette. mvh DROPS design
25.11.2019 - 11:58Brumelot Gab wrote:
Je n'arrive pas au nombre de mailles prévu pour la plus petite taille avec 66 mailles si a 13 maille je fais 6x2 mailles d’augmentation puis à 28 mailles 6x2mailles d’augmentation puis encore à 13 mailles 6x2 mailles d'augmentation , j'arrive à 90 mailles et non 84 où me suis je trompée
03.02.2019 - 16:20DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Brumelot Gab. Vous tricotez 13 mailles endroit en augmentant EN MÊME TEMPS 2 mailles à intervalles réguliers (13+2=15), ensuite on a 6 jetes (6 nouvelles mailles), tricotez 28 mailles endroit en augmentant EN MÊME TEMPS 2 mailles à intervalles réguliers (28+2=30), 6 jetes, 13 mailles endroit en augmentant EN MÊME TEMPS 2 mailles à intervalles réguliers (13+2=15). Au total vous avez 3x2 mailles augmentees et 2x6 mailles augmentees > 6+12=18 > 66+18=84. Bon tricot!
03.02.2019 - 23:57Susanne Rijnen wrote:
Wat is maat xxxl?
24.01.2019 - 17:15DROPS Design answered:
Dag Susanne,
Onderaan in het schema kun je zien wat de afmetingen zijn van maat xxxl. Om de juiste maat te kiezen kan het handig zijn om een bestaand kledingstuk erbij te pakken en dan de maten te vergelijken.
27.01.2019 - 14:12Cécile Thirifays wrote:
Bonjour les explications pour réaliser ce modèle avec des aiguilles classiques existent-elles ? est-ce facile d\'adapter ?
18.12.2018 - 12:52DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Thirifays, vous trouverez ici comment adapter un modèle sur aiguilles droites - il est parfois bien plus facile de tricoter en rond, n'hésitez pas à "dompter" les aiguilles circulaires à l'aide de nos vidéos. Bon tricot!
19.12.2018 - 09:37AliceBetty wrote:
Jeg forstår ikke begyndelsen med at strikke 13 masker og tage 2m på.
16.08.2018 - 22:55DROPS Design answered:
Hej Alice, jo du strikker de 13 masker samtidig som du tager 2 masker ud (i de 13) = 15, fortsætter som der står mellem stjernerne 6 gange og så 28 masker ret samtidig som du tager 2 masker ud (i de 28) og så videre :)
21.08.2018 - 15:16Noellie wrote:
Bonjour, débutant le tricot j'ai des difficultés à comprendre à partir de quel moment commencer les augmentations de chaque côtés de A1. Dois-je les commencer au moment du 2eme rang du diagramme (9eme tour du modèle) ou plutôt au niveau du 3eme rang de A1 (10eme tour du modèle)? Par avance merci de votre réponse.
21.02.2018 - 22:46DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Noellie, augmentez de chaque côté de chaque A.1 à partir du 2ème tour tricoté avec A.1 à chaque transition, et répétez ainsi ces augmentations tous les 2 tours (= 1 tour sans augmentations, 1 tour avec augmentations). Bon tricot!
22.02.2018 - 08:52Chantal wrote:
Que signifie pas de maille, sauter cette case? Doit-on ignorer le symbole sur la grille et passer à l'autre case qui dit par exemple un maille endroit sur envers? Merci
13.11.2017 - 22:35DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Chantal, tout à fait, ignorez cette case, sur ce rang (ex. rang 2), il n'y a que 2 m que vous allez tricoter ainsi sur l'endroit (en rond): 1 m end, 1 jeté, 1 m end pour avoir de nouveau 3 m au tour suivant. Bon tricot!
14.11.2017 - 09:16Heather wrote:
I think I got it! The 2 cables merge into one as you increase the sleeve! I took out what I had done and re did it just counting the way the pattern says and it wors out. I was thrown off because the pattern doesn’t really state the cable moves. Love your patterns but hard to read sometimes and I am a pretty darn experienced knitter. Thanks for your help. Also not sure why saying Ireland cause I am in Canada. Click other but it isn’t working it seems.
07.11.2017 - 12:21