DROPS / 178 / 27

Spring Forest by DROPS Design

Jumper with wave pattern and raglan, worked bottom up with 2 strands DROPS Delight. Sizes: S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no de-166
Yarn group A + A or C
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS DELIGHT from Garnstudio
250-300-300-350-400-400 g colour 08, green/beige
250-300-300-350-400-400 g colour 11, lilac/green

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 5.5 MM – or the size needed to get 16 stitches and 20 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height with 2 strands Delight. And 20 stitches and 24 rows wave pattern on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height with 2 strands Delight.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 4.5 MM for the garter stitch edges – or the size needed to get 18 stitches and 23 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height with 2 strands Delight.
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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
DROPS Delight print DROPS Delight print 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

CHANGING THE STRAND TIP:
So that the transitions between colours in Delight are as neat as possible when changing balls, it is important to find a ball which starts with the colour the previous ball ended with.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.9. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP (for mid under the sleeve):
Start 2 stitches before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes.

DECREASE TIP:
Decrease 1 stitch by knitting 2 stitches together.
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 88 stitches) and divide the number of stitches by the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 5) = 17.6. In this example you work approx. every 17th and 18th stitch together.



RAGLAN:
Decrease to raglan in each transition between body and sleeves. NOTE: In sizes S, M and XXL decreases are different on the body and sleeves as described in the text.
Decrease as follows after A.9: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease as follows before A.9: Start 2 stitches before A.9 and knit 2 stitches together (= 1 stitch decreased).
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JUMPER:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, from the bottom up. The sleeves are worked with double pointed needles.

BODY:
Cast on 270-297-324-351-378-405 stitches with circular needle size 5.5 mm with 1 strand in each colour (= 2 strands).
Work A.1 (= 27 stitches) 10-11-12-13-14-15 times in width. When the whole of A.1 has been completed in height there are 230-253-276-299-322-345 stitches on the round. Work A.2 (= 23 stitches) over each repeat of A.1. Continue in this way until A.2 has been completed 3-3-3-3-3-4 times in height – READ CHANGING THE STRAND TIP! REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Work A.3 (= 23 stitches) 1 time in height. When the whole of A.3 has been completed in height there are 210-231-252-273-294-315 stitches on the round. Work A.4 (= 21 stitches) 2 times in height in all sizes. Work A.5 (= 21 stitches) 1 time in height. When the whole of A.5 has been completed in height there are 190-209-228-247-266-285 stitches on the round. Work A.6 (= 19 stitches) 3 times in height in all sizes. Then work A.7 (= 19 stitches). When A.7 has been completed in height there are 150-165-180-195-210-225 stitches on the round. Knit 1 round where you decrease 10-11-14-13-8-5 stitches evenly along the round = 140-154-166-182-202-220 stitches. Then work the next round as follows: Knit 32-35-38-42-47-52 stitches and insert 1 marker thread in the last stitch knitted, cast off 6 stitches for the armhole, knit 64-71-77-85-95-104 stitches and insert 1 marker thread in the first and last stitch knitted, cast off 6 stitches for the armhole, knit 32-36-39-43-48-52 stitches and insert 1 marker thread in the first stitch knitted. Put aside and work sleeves.

SLEEVES:
Cast on 32-34-36-40-42-46 stitches with double pointed needles size 4.5 mm with 1 strand in each colour (= 2 strands). Work pattern in the round according to diagram A.8. When A.8 has been completed 1 time in height change to double pointed needles size 5.5 mm. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round and allow the marker thread to follow the work upwards. Work stocking stitch in the round.
When the piece measures 10-12-7-5-5-10 cm increase 2 stitches mid under the sleeve – READ INCREASE TIP. Increase in this way every 7th-5th-5th-5th-4th-4th round a total of 10-12-14-14-14-14 times = 52-58-64-68-70-74 stitches. When the piece measures 46-44-44-42-41-40 cm (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke) cast off 6 stitches mid under the sleeve (i.e. cast off 3 stitches on each side of the marker thread) = 46-52-58-62-64-68 stitches. Lay the piece to one side and work the other sleeve in the same way.

YOKE:
Place the sleeves on the same circular needle as the body where you have cast off stitches for the armholes (do this without working the stitches) = 220-246-270-294-318-344 stitches on the needle. There are now 4 marker thread in the piece (1 marker thread in each transition between body and sleeves). Continue by working stocking stitch and A.9 in each transition between body and sleeves (the stitches with marker threads are the middle stitches in A.9). AT THE SAME TIME on the first round start the decreases to RAGLAN – see the description above. NOTE: Decreases vary in the different sizes.

SIZES S, M AND XXL:
The decreases are different on body and sleeves.
FRONT AND BACK PIECES: Decrease 1 stitch every 2nd round (= 4 stitches decreased on the round) a total of 18-20-25 times.
SLEEVES: Decrease 1 stitch every 4th round a total of 2-2-1 times and every 2nd round (= 4 stitches decreased on the round) a total of 13-16-23 times. Change to short circular needle size 5.5 mm when the number of stitches has been sufficiently reduced.

SIZES L, XL AND XXXL:
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of each A.9 (= 8 stitches decreased on the round). Decrease in this way every 2nd round a total of 21-23-26 times. Change to short circular needle size 5.5 mm when the number of stitches has been sufficiently reduced.

ALL SIZES:
When all the decreases have been completed there are 88-94-102-110-122-136 stitches on the round. Work 1 round where you decrease 5-8-12-16-24-34 stitches evenly along the round – READ DECREASE TIP = 83-86-90-94-98-102 stitches. Change to short circular needle size 4.5 mm. Work 2 RIDGES – see description above and cast off. Make sure the cast-off edge is not tight!

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves.

Diagram

= knit
= purl
= 1 yarn over, on the next round knit the yarn overs so that there are holes
= 2 yarn overs between 2 stitches, on the next round drop the first yarn over and knit the other
= knit 2 together
= slip 2 stitches as if to knit together, knit 1, pass the 2 slipped stitches over (= 2 stitches decreased)


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 178-27) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (39)

Geri 12.01.2020 - 13:37:

Habe den Pullover mit viel Schwitzen und Unsicherheiten, ob ich es richtig mache, fertiggestellt - mit Erfolg! Er sieht sehr schön aus, passt auch wirklich gut, war mir aber erstmal zu kurz. Ich habe ihn dann mit feuchten Tücher gespannt und etwas in die Länge gezogen. Nun ist er perfekt und ich freue mich sehr darüber.

Béatrice Bégarin 01.08.2019 - 12:45:

Est-il possible de faire une réhausse sur ce type de pull (bottom up) ?\\r\\nj\\\'aurai aimé monter le col pour le fermer davantage.\\r\\nMerci pour le conseil apporter à ma question précedente.\\r\\nAutrement le modèle est sympa et très agréable à faire.

DROPS Design 08.08.2019 kl. 10:55:

Bonjour Mme Bégarin, vous pouvez vous inspirer d'un modèle tricoté sur la base du même échantillon, avec une réhausse, pour en faire une ici aussi. Ou bien vous pouvez également former l'encolure de façon plus traditionnelle en vous basant sur celle d'un modèle similaire. Bon tricot!

Béatrice Bégarin 13.06.2019 - 21:15:

J'ai monté 270m je fais A.1 soit 10 fois lr dessin et il me reste 6m à la fin du tour. J'ai recomencé 2fois en pensant avoir fait une erreur et recompté mon nombre de mailles et mon nombre de dessin, mais ça ne va tjrs pas il me reste 6m tjrs. je ne comprends pas ou est mon erreur. merci pour votre aide.

DROPS Design 14.06.2019 kl. 07:17:

Bonjour Mme Bégarin, A.1 se tricote sur 27 mailles et on le répète 10 fois au total, soit 10x27 = 270 m.Vous pouvez placer un marqueur entre chaque A.1, il vous sera ainsi plus facile de bien recompter le nombre de mailles. Au 3ème rang de A.1, on va diminuer 4 m (= il restera 23 m dans chaque A.1). Bon tricot!

Valeria 14.02.2019 - 11:19:

Buongiorno, bellissimo questo modello; io vorrei farlo aperto davanti, per cui lavorarlo con i ferri avanti e indietro. Qualcuno ha già provato? In ogni caso, i diagrammi A.n sono formati da 6 giri o bisogna intervallare anche un giro di rovescio, lavorando le maglie come si presentano? Grazie per l'attenzione Valeria

DROPS Design 14.02.2019 kl. 12:09:

Buongiorno Valeria. I diagrammi mostrano tutti i ferri del motivo, quindi lavorando avanti e indietro ci sono anche i ferri di ritorno. La riga dove trova i simboli per lavorare 2 m insieme a diritto , 2 maglie gettate, sono lavorate sul diritto del lavoro. Buon lavoro!

Liv 04.12.2018 - 15:31:

Ja dette e det jeg kan se av forklaringer til diagrammet. Jeg har 6 forklaringer, men det er 7 tegn Diagram = rett = vrang = 1 kast om pinnen, på neste omgang strikkes kastet rett slik at det blir hull = 2 kast mellom 2 masker, på neste omgang slippes det ene kastet ned og det andre strikkes rett = 2 rett sammen = ta 2 masker løs av pinnen som om de skulle strikkes rett sammen, strikk 1 rett, løft de 2 løse maskene over (= 2 masker felt)

Liv 04.12.2018 - 09:35:

Hei Hvordan strikkes A8. Kan ikke se tegn beskrivelse i diagram

DROPS Design 04.12.2018 kl. 14:13:

Hei Liv. Er det symbolforklaringen du ikke kan se? Vi har nå sjekket dette og den skal være synlig. gjelder dette uansett hvaslags enhet du bruker? A.8 består av 2 masker og strikkes slik: 1 omg: rett, 2 omg: vrang, 3 omg: rett, 4 omg: vrang, 5 og 6 omg: rett. 7 omg: 2 rett sammen, 2 kast på neste omgang slippes det ene kastet ned og det andre strikkes rett, 8 og 9 omg: rett, 10 omg: vrang, 11 omg: rett, 12 omg: vrang. God fornøyelse

Liv 30.11.2018 - 23:55:

Hei Kommer til A2 2 kast mellom 2 masker på neste omgang slippes det ene kaste ned. Det er 8 med kast i mellom det vil 7 mellomrom med kast, men jeg feller tilsamme 8 masker. Vil jeg da ikke miste 1 maske.

DROPS Design 03.12.2018 kl. 12:11:

Hei Liv. Det stemmer at du feller 8 masker, men det er også 8 kast på omgangen (= 16 kast, der halvparten slippes ned). Så du feller og øker like mange masker, slik at maskeantallet er uendret. Du strikker altså 4 ganger 2 masker rett sammen, 2 kast, 1 rett, 2 kast, 1 rett, 2 kast, 1 rett, 2 kast, 1 rett, 2 kast, 1 rett, 2 kast, 1 rett, 2 kast, 1 rett, 2 kast, 4 ganger 2 masker rett sammen. God fornøyelse.

Sophia 22.10.2018 - 17:34:

Is pattern so big ? I try 2 times with needles 5,5m and 4,5m and is xxl and I knit small size.what can I do? Cast on less stitches?thank you

DROPS Design 23.10.2018 kl. 08:51:

Dear Sophie, have you checked your tension? Do you have 16 sts x 20 rows in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm? If your tension is correct, you will have the correct measurements shown in the chart - read more about sizing here. Happy knitting!

Mala 08.10.2018 - 16:58:

Hallo, ich würde mir gerne diesen Pullover in anderen Farben stricken. Welche Farbe lässt sich gut mit Farbe 18 herbstwald kombinieren. Ich finde es sehr schwierig, das am Bildschirm zu berurteilen. Danke.LG

DROPS Design 09.10.2018 kl. 09:01:

Liebe Mala, nehmen Sie bitte am besten Kontakt mit Ihrem DROPS Laden auf - auch telefonisch oder per E-mail, sie werden Ihnen helfen, die besten Kombinationsmöglichkeit zu finden. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Kiki 18.09.2018 - 20:05:

Hallo also ich habe jetzt schon das 4te mal angefangen... mache iegendeinen Gedankenfehler. Stricke in S...Muster sieht immer anders aus. Muss ich über A.2 3mal A.1 stricken? Die Maschenzahl stimmt doch nicht mehr. Sind nur noch 23 Maschen statt 27.. Liebe Grüße aus Hannover

DROPS Design 19.09.2018 kl. 09:44:

Liebe Kiki, zuerst stricken Sie A.1 (= 27 Maschen) aber in der 3. Reihe in A.1 werden Sie 4 Maschen in jedem A.1 abnehmen = es sind nur noch 23 M in jedem A.1. Dann stricken Sie A.2 (= 23 M) über jedem A.1. Wenn A.2 3 Mal in der Höhe gestrickt wird, stricken Sie A.3 = 2 M werden dann in jedem A.2 abgenommen = 21 M bleiben übrig für A.4. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

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