DROPS / 178 / 26

Rays of Spring by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket in Garter stitch with short rows and stripes in DROPS Fabel. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no. fa-373
Yarn group A
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
300-300-350-350-400-450 g colour 623, rose mist
150-200-200-200-250-250 g colour 100, off white

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 3.5 MM – or the needles required to get 23 stitches and 45 rows of garter stitch or 23 stitches and 30 rows of stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO. 521: 3 items for all sizes.
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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 2.30 £ /50g
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DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 2.50 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
KNITTING TIP:
Garter stitch is quite elastic and the garment will stretch when worn, both in width and length, and will be larger than the measurements show. Possibly choose a size smaller than you usually use.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (is worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Work 2 rows knit.

MEASURING TIP:
Measure from the cast-on edge. Measure under the armhole, where the piece is narrowest.

SHORT ROWS:
The short rows are always worked with off white and in ridges. 1 repeat of short rows is 1 ridge across all the stitches in the piece, 9 ridges with short rows, 1 ridge over all the stitches, 9 ridges with short rows and 1 ridge over all the stitches.

Insert 1 marker thread in the 86th stitch from the right side.
Change to off white, continue to work short rows as follows (row 1 = from the right side):
ROW 1: Knit all the stitches = 143-148-152-157-161-166 stitches.
ROW 2: Knit all the stitches.
ROW 3: Knit 86 stitches.
ROW 4: Turn and work back by knitting 85 stitches, knit 2 stitches in the last stitch.
ROW 5: Knit 77 stitches.
ROW 6: Turn and work back by knitting 76 stitches, knit 2 stitches in the last stitch.
Continue with short rows and garter stitch, turn 10 stitches earlier on each row from the right side and increase 1 stitch at the end of each row from the wrong side.
Continue in this way until you have knitted 14 stitches before turning, turn and knit 2 stitches in the last stitch. There are now 9 ridges with short rows. Work 2 rows across all the stitches on the needle.

Continue to work as follows – from the right side:
ROW 1: Knit 2 together (= 1 stitch on the needle), knit 13.
ROW 2: Turn and knit back.
ROW 3: Knit 2 together (= 1 stitch on the needle), knit 22.
ROW 4: Turn and knit back.
ROW 5: Knit 2 together (= 1 stitch on the needle), knit 31.
ROW 6: Turn and knit back.
Continue with short rows and garter stitch, turn 10 stitches closer to the stitch with the marker thread each time you turn and knit 2 together at the beginning of each row on the right side. Continue in this way until you have worked 86 stitches before turning, turn and work to end of row. Knit 1 row from the right side and knit 1 row from the wrong side = 143-148-152-157-161-166 stitches on the needle.
In the left side of the piece/on the shoulder of the jacket: 1 repeat with short rows = 3 ridges in off white.

STRIPES:
* Work 1 ridge (= 2 rows) with rose mist, work 1 ridge (= 2 rows) with off white *, repeat from *-*. The stripes are worked between repeats with short rows on back and front piecses. The sides and front bands are worked in rose mist.

STRIPES SLEEVE:
* Work 1 ridge (= 2 rows) with off white, 1 ridge (= 2 rows) with rose mist *, repeat from *-* for 8 cm. The rest of the sleeve is worked in stocking stitch with the wrong side out with rose mist (= purl from right side and knit from wrong side).
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BACK PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth on the circular needle. Work in GARTER STITCH = knit all rows. Cast on and work from the left-hand side, see the arrows in the sketch for the direction of work. READ KNITTING TIP!

Loosely cast on 102-104-106-109-111-113 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm and rose mist. Work 5-11-13-15-19-21 rows (row 1 = from the wrong side). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! At the end of the next row (= from the right side) cast on 3 new stitches for the armhole. Continue to cast on 3 new stitches at the end of every 6th row: 0-0-1-2-4-5 times = 105-107-112-118-126-131 stitches. At the end of the next row from the right side cast on 38-41-40-39-35-35 new stitches = 143-148-152-157-161-166 stitches. Continue to work garter stitch across all stitches until the piece measures 9-10-11-12-14-16 cm (adjust so that the next row is worked from the right side).

Continue to work 1 repeat with SHORT ROWS – see description above – with off white. Continue working with STRIPES - see description above, across all stitches until the piece measures 17-19-21-23-26-28 cm – READ MEASURING TIP. Now cast off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next row from the wrong side for the neck = 138-143-147-152-156-161 stitches. Continue working garter stitch across all stitches until the piece measures 20-22-24-26-30-32 cm (adjust so that the next row is worked from the right side). Work 1 repeat with short rows with off white.

Continue with stripes and garter stitch until the piece measures 25-27-29-31-36-38 cm. Now cast on 5 stitches at the end of the next row from the right side = 143-148-152-157-161-166 stitches. Continue back and forth across all the stitches until the piece measures 32-35-38-41-47-49 cm (adjust so that the next row is worked from the right side). Work 1 repeat with short rows with off white. Finish the piece in garter stitch and rose mist.

Work until the piece measures approx. 40-43-45-47-52-54 cm. Now cast off 38-41-40-39-35-35 stitches at the beginning of the next row from the wrong side for the armhole = 105-107-112-118-126-131 stitches. On the next row from the wrong side cast off 3 stitches at the beginning of the row. Continue to cast off at the beginning of every 6th row: 3 stitches 0-0-1-2-4-5 times = 102-104-106-109-111-113 stitches. Work back and forth until the piece measures 42-46-50-54-62-66 cm. Loosely cast off.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work from the side towards mid front. See the arrows in the sketch for the direction to work in. Loosely cast on 102-104-106-109-111-113 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm and rose mist. Continue to work and increase for the armhole as for the back piece = 143-148-152-157-161-166 stitches. When the piece measures 6-7-8-9-12-14 cm (adjust so that the next row is worked from the right side) work 1 repeat with short rows with off white. Continue to work in garter stitch and stripes across all stitches. When the piece measures 13-15-17-17-19-21 cm – READ MEASURING TIP - (adjust so that the next row is worked from the right side) work 1 repeat with short rows with off white. Continue to work garter stitch with rose mist. Work until the piece measures 3-3-3-5-6-6 cm after the last short row (the piece now measures a total of approx. 17-19-21-23-26-28 cm). Now cast off for the neck at the beginning of every row from the wrong side: 9-9-11-9-11-8 stitches 1 time, 5 stitches 7 times and 2 stitches 1-1-1-2-2-4 times = 97-102-104-109-111-115 stitches. Work 5 rows back and forth across all the stitches with rose mist. Now cast off for buttonholes, work as follows from the right side: Work 56-61-63-68-70-74 stitches, * knit 2 together, make 1 yarn over, work 16 stitches *, repeat from *-* in total 2 times, knit 2 together, make 1 yarn over, work the last 3 stitches = 3 buttonholes. Work 5 rows back and forth across all the stitches with rose mist. Loosely cast off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work from mid front towards the side. Loosely cast on 97-102-104-109-111-115 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm and rose mist. Work 11 rows (row 1 = from right side) back and forth across all stitches. Then continue to increase for the neck at the end of every row from the right side: 2 stitches 1-1-1-2-2-4 times, 5 stitches 7 times and 9-9-11-9-11-8 stitches 1 time = 143-148-152-157-161-166 stitches. Continue back and forth across all stitches until the piece measures approx. 10-10-10-12-13-14 cm (adjust so that the next row is worked from the right side). Work 1 repeat with short rows and off white. Continue working in garter stitch and stripes back and forth across all stitches until the piece measures approx. 17-18-19-20-20-21 cm (adjust so that the next row is worked from the right side). Work 1 repeat with short rows with off white. Continue to work garter stitch with rose mist. AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 4-4-3-2-2-2 cm after the last short row cast off the first 38-41-40-39-35-35 stitches from the wrong side for the armhole. On the next row from the wrong side cast off 3 stitches at the beginning of the row. Continue to cast off at the beginning of every 6th row: 3 stitches 0-0-1-2-4-5 times = 102-104-106-109-111-113 stitches. Continue back and forth across all stitches until the piece measures 6-7-8-9-12-14 cm after the last short row. Loosely cast off.

SLEEVE:
The sleeve is worked back and forth on the circular needle. Loosely cast on 48-50-52-54-56-58 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side) with circular needle size 3.5 mm and rose mist. Work in GARTER STITCH and STRIPES SLEEVE – see description above. When the piece measures 5-5-5-5-5-8 cm increase 1 stitch in each side. Continue the increases every 3-2½-2-1½-1½-1 cm in total 12-14-16-19-20-22 times = 72-78-84-92-96-102 stitches. AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 8 cm continue working with rose mist and stocking stitch with the wrong side out. When the piece measures 41-41-40-40-38-37 cm cast off 3 stitches in each side for the sleeve cap. NOTE! Shorter measurements in the larger sizes due to a longer sleeve cap and broader shoulder measurements. Continue to cast off for the sleeve cap at the beginning of each row in the side as follows: 2 stitches 2-2-2-2-1-0 times and 1 stitch 10-12-14-15-24-28 times. Then cast off 2 stitches in each side until the piece measures 47-48-48-49-49-50 cm. Now cast off 3 stitches in each side 1 time. Cast off the remaining stitches, when the piece measures approx. 48-49-49-50-50-51 cm.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in the sleeves. Sew the sleeve and side seams in one go inside the 1 edge stitch.  Sew the buttons on the left front piece.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 29.05.2017
RIGHT FRONT PIECE:...Now cast off for the neck at the beginning of every row from the wrong side: 9-9-11-9-11-8 stitches 1 time, 5 stitches 7 times and 2 stitches 1-1-1-2-2-4 times = 97-102-104-109-111-115 stitches...

Diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 178-26) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (38)

Lise Due 26.10.2020 - 19:36:

Hej, når jeg strikker venstre forstykke og efter sidste rapport, skal man strikke 4 cm (mediium) fra sidste vending lukke af til ærmegab, er det ikke forkert her? Skuldersømmen bliver for lille så. Når jeg læser højre forstykke startes der fra ærmegab/ siden, og venstre forstykke slutter med ærmegab/ siden. Er jeg helt gal på den, eller hvad? På forhånd tak :-)

DROPS Design 04.11.2020 kl. 12:25:

Hej Lise, jeg kan ikke finde de 4 cm du henviser til. Du starter aflukningen til ærmegab når arbejdet måler 43 cm. God fornøjelse!

Ragnhild Almelid 20.05.2020 - 10:30:

Hei! I oppskriften for Rays og Spring står det : Når arbeidet måler ..... cm. Etter å ha strikket vendinger måler arbeidet forskjellig oppe og nede på arbeidet. Hvor måler jeg? Et spørsmål angående vendinger: I punktene hvor jeg snur, fører jeg over første masken og strikker tilbake. Likevel blir maskene her noe større enn de andre og det er ikke pent. Tips? Mvh Ragnhild

DROPS Design 25.05.2020 kl. 14:22:

Hei Ragnhild. Les måletips i oppskriften; det måles fra oppleggskanten. Mål under ermeåpningen, der hvor arbeidet er smalest. Husk å stramme tråden ved vendinger. God Fornøyelse!

Carmen-Gabriela 15.05.2020 - 17:18:

Danke.)! So werde ich stufenlos abketten. Sie sind einfach SUPER:)

Carmen-Gabriela 14.05.2020 - 17:36:

Hallo:) Haben Sie einen Trick wie man schön abkettet (Halsausschnitt), um Treppchen zu vermeiden? Ich werde mit Knötchenrand (wie bei verk. Reihen) od. mit 2 Maschen zusammenstricken + abketten probieren. Notfalls wird später ein Häkelrändchen gearbeitet; habe Ihr Video dazu gesehen. - Die Jacke wird wunderschön:)! - Ärmelbündchen werden/sind (lt. Foto) umgeschlagen?

DROPS Design 15.05.2020 kl. 08:18:

Liebe Carmen-Gabriela, am Ende der Reihe vor der mit Abketten stricken Sie die letzte Masche nicht, wenden, diese letzte Masche ist jetzt auf der re. Nadel, die 1. M auf der li. Nadel (ungestrickt) abheben und die 1. Masche über die 2. Masche ziehen (= 1 Masche wurde jetzt abgekettet) und so immer arbeiten, um Stufen/Treppchen zu vermeiden. Prüfen Sie mal mit der Maßskizze (und eine ähnliche Jacke die Sie gerne haben), daß die Ärmel genügend lang werden, damit Sie sie umschlagen können. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Julia 11.05.2020 - 11:05:

Thank you for your response, however I am still unsure as to how to proceed. For the back and both front pieces, should I measure from just below the armhole EVERY time the pattern says to work until the piece measures (x) cms or only when the instruction is followed by READ MEASURING TIP? I do not understand why the pattern only states READ MEASURING TIP in some places and not others.

DROPS Design 11.05.2020 kl. 11:48:

Dear Julia, yes, everye time it says pattern measures.... you should measure on this place. Happy knitting!

Julia 10.05.2020 - 15:20:

Hi there! For the back, the instructions say 'Continue to work garter stitch across all stitches until the piece measures 9-10-11-12-14-16 cm'. Here I measured from the original cast on edge. Then it says 'Continue working with STRIPES across all stitches until the piece measures 17-19-21-23-26-28 cm – READ MEASURING TIP' ie from under the armhole where the piece is narrowest. Am I right in only using the Measuring Tip where specified?

DROPS Design 11.05.2020 kl. 09:54:

Dear Julia, you should measure from the cast on edge, where the piece is narrowest (just below armhole, where you can see the finished measurement 42 to 66 cm on the measurement chart). Happy knitting!

Elly 30.11.2019 - 17:53:

Rugpand; na het meerderen voor het armschat staat er in de omschrijving; Ga verder en brei in ribbelsteek over alle steken tot een hoogte van....... is dit de totale hoogte (Dus vanaf de zijnaad) of gemeten vanaf de meerderingen ??

Lone Pedersen 10.11.2019 - 16:39:

På målskitse til small er der over hals og skulder angivet 38 + 7 (i begge sider til ærmegab). Der er så sammenlagt 52 cm. Men samme stykke over brystet viser 42 cm! Skal jeg så strikke stykke ved ærmegab 7 cm. dybt, før jeg slår 38 nye masker op i bagstykket? Eller skal jeg regne med 42 cm, for så skal stykket kun være 3 cm før jeg slår de 38 masker op? MVH Lone

DROPS Design 11.11.2019 kl. 16:55:

Hej Lone, Nej du er nødt til at følge opskriften. Hvis du strikker i DROPS Fabel og har 23 masker og 45 pinde i højden på 10 x 10 cm så får du automatisk målene, som står i måleskitsen når du følger alle skridt i opskriften. God fornøjelse!

Marie-Madeleine 01.03.2019 - 22:54:

Bonjour, Votre réponse du 01/03 est incomplète quant à la proposition de bordure.Merci de me préciser à quelle bordure vous pensiez. Merci de votre aide Bien cordialement

DROPS Design 04.03.2019 kl. 07:43:

Bonjour Marie-Madeleine, la réponse précédente a été éditée pour que le lien apparaisse. Cette bordure n'est toutefois qu'un exemple, vous pouvez également faire un simple rang de mailles serrées ou bien au point écrevisse, au choix. Bonne continuation!

Marie-Madeleine 01.03.2019 - 12:00:

Bonjour, Merci pour votre réponse. Quelle petite bordure simple me proposez vous de faire pour pallier à cet "escalier" tout à fait inesthétique..; merci de votre réponse Cordialement

DROPS Design 01.03.2019 kl. 13:02:

Bonjour Marie-Madeleine, vous pouvez par exemple crocheter cette petite bordure ou bien relever les mailles et les rabattre au rang suivant, au choix. Bon tricot!

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