Titania by DROPS Design

Knitted wrap around jacket in garter st in DROPS Alpaca and DROPS Kid-Silk. Size children 3-12 years.

DROPS Children 27-13
DROPS design: Pattern no z-041-bn
Yarn group A + A or C
Size: 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
150-150-200-200-250 g color no 100, off white
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
75-75-75-100-100 g color no 01, off white

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 5 mm/US 8 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 34 rows in garter st with 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands) = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 5 mm / H/8 - for ties.


Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


100% Alpaca
from 3.40 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.40 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.55 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd

75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 6.75 $ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 30.45$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on circular needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

Dec inside 4 sts towards mid front (= inside picot edge). All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows after 4 sts: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec before 4 sts as follows: K 2 tog.

PICOT EDGE (back and forth on needle):
ROW 1 (= RS): K all sts.
ROW 2 (= WS): K until 4 sts remain, work these sts as follows: K 2 tog, 1 YO, K 2 sts in each of the last 2 sts = 2 new sts on row.
ROW 3 (= RS): Slip 1st st as if to K, K 1, psso, K 1 and slip the last st on right needle over the foremost st, 2 sts dec - then K the remaining sts.
ROW 4 (= WS): K all sts.
Repeat rows 1 to 4.

ROW 1 (= RS): K until 4 sts remain, work these sts as follows: K 2 tog, 1 YO, K 2 sts in each of the last 2 sts = 2 new sts on row.
ROW 2 (= WS): Slip 1st st as if to K, K 1, psso, K 1 and slip the last st on right needle over the foremost st, 2 sts dec - then K the remaining sts.
ROW 3 (= RS): K all sts.
ROW 4 (= WS): K all sts.
Repeat rows 1 to 4.

Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Beg on front piece, cast on sts for sleeve and work up to the shoulder. Work the other front piece, place both front pieces tog and work down the back piece.

LOOSELY cast on 44-46-50-52-54 sts on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with one strand Kid-Silk and one strand Alpaca (= 2 strands) work in GARTER ST - see explanation above (1st row = RS). Work a picot edge over the outermost 4 sts towards mid front (i.e. the first 4 sts on needle)
When piece measures 3-5-6-9-10 cm / 1"-2"-2½"-3½"-4'' (adjust so that next row is worked from RS), dec 1 st inside picot edge at beg of row - READ DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every cm / ½" 24-24-27-28-29 more times. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 17-20-23-26-27 cm / 6 3/4"-8"-9"-10 1/4"-10½" cast on new sts at the end of row towards the side of sleeve as follows: 5-4-4-4-4 sts 5-7-9-9-11 times in total and then 25-28-27-30-28 sts 1 time. After all inc and dec there are 69-77-85-89-96 sts on the needle for shoulder/sleeve.
Continue in garter st until piece measures 30-34-38-42-44 cm / 11 3/4"-13½"-15"-16½"-17 1/4". Insert 1 marker = mid on top of shoulder. Continue to work until piece measures 2 cm / 3/4'' from the marker, finish with 1 row K from WS. Put all sts on a stitch holder.

Cast on and work as right but reversed i.e. dec for neck inside picot edge at the end of row from RS (instead of at the beg of row from RS).

Work left front piece on to circular needle (= K from RS), cast on 16-16-18-18-20 new sts (= back of neck) and work right front piece on to circular needle (= K from RS) = 154-170-188-196-212 sts.
Continue to work in garter st back and forth on needle.
When piece measures 9-9-9-10-10 cm / 3½"-3½"-3½"-4"-4'', bind off sleeve sts as follows: bind off at beg of every row in each side as follows: 25-28-27-30-28 sts 1 time and 5-4-4-4-4 sts 5-7-9-9-11 times = 54-58-62-64-68 sts on needle. Continue until piece measures approx. 30-34-38-42-44 cm / 11 3/4"-13½"-15"-16½"-17 1/4" – fold piece at the markers on shoulders and check that front and back pieces are the same length – loosely bind off.

Sew side and sleeve seams tog edge to edge in outer loops of edge stss.

Where dec for neck on right front piece beg work a tie as follows, work with 1 strand of each quality with crochet hook size 5 mm / H/8. 1 sc at the tip, then work ch for 20-25 cm / 8"-9 3/4", turn and work 1 sl st in every ch. Work a tie the same way on the outside of seam in the left side - make sure that tie is in the same height as on front piece. Then work another tie on the inside of the seam in the right side and another one where dec for neck starts on the left front piece – make sure that all of the ties are at the same height.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 27-13) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (43)

country flag Els Nieuwkerk wrote:

Volgens dit patroon heb ik alle minderingen en meerderingen gedaan voor het rechter voorpand. Er staat dat je dan verder ribbels moet breien. Vind ik vreemd... Hoeven er dan geen picots meer gebreid te worden?? Er wordt dan ook alleen in de hoogte gebreid, waardoor de schuine rand ophoudt... kunt u me svp helpen???

19.09.2023 - 10:34

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Els,

Ja, breit dan nog wel pictots, alleen geen meerderingen en minderingen meer.

05.10.2023 - 06:29

country flag Melanie wrote:

Ich finde dieses Design total schön. Gibt es diese Art auch für Frauen? Darüber würde ich mich sehr freuen.

15.09.2023 - 16:47

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Melanie, dasselbe Modell haben wir leider nicht, aber hier finden Sie ähnliche Modellen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

18.09.2023 - 07:47

country flag Desi wrote:

Buongiorno, sto facendo il davanti destro e sono arrivata al punto in cui devo aumentare le maglie per la manica, lo schema dice "4 maglie 11 volte" non capisco se devo fare gli aumenti ad ogni singolo ferro (quindi sia al dritto che al rovescio) o se devo farli solo nei ferri a dritto, grazie mille

20.08.2023 - 17:22

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Desi, deve avviare le maglie alla fine del ferro verso il lato. Buon lavoro!

22.08.2023 - 22:35

country flag Pauline wrote:

Bonjour. Pour les diminutions , vous indiquez "diminuez ainsi après 4 m" et "diminuer avant 4 m ainsi". Je ne comprends pas bien ce que vous voulez dire . La méthode pour les 4 premières diminutions est elle différente des suivantes ? Merci par avance

18.04.2023 - 17:11

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Pauline, on diminue pour les devants à 4 mailles du bord ainsi: pour le devant droit, on diminue après les 4 premières mailles au début du rang sur l'endroit (glissez 1 m, tricotez 1 m et passez la m glissée par-dessus la m tricotée); pour le devant gauche, diminuez en fin de rang sur l'endroit quand il reste 6 m: tricotez 2 m ens à l'end, puis tricotez les 4 dernières mailles comme avant. Répétez ces diminutions 24 à 29 fois (cf taille). Bon tricot!

19.04.2023 - 07:31

country flag Granger wrote:

Puis je tricoter ce modèle avec des aiguilles droites en attendant de recevoir mes aiguilles circulaires ?

04.03.2023 - 11:14

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Granger, tout à fait, on tricote ici en allers et retours sur aiguille circulaire pour avoir suffisamment de place pour y loger toutes les mailles; Bon tricot!

06.03.2023 - 09:13

country flag Gisela Meinzolt wrote:

Ich möchte dieses Modell mit Drops Baby merino einfach stricken, damit die Jacke dünner wird. Wie kann ich die Anleitung umrechnen? Vielen Dank und beste Grüße

25.01.2023 - 13:53

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Meinzolt, dann sollen Sie je nach Ihrer eigenen Maschenprobe alles neu umrechnen, dh die Maschenanzahl in der Breite sowie alle Längen nach Ihrer Reiheanzahl in der Höhe. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

25.01.2023 - 16:52

country flag Mignon wrote:

Bonjour, Je l’ai réalisé en 4 6 et 8 ans un très joli modèle que mes petites filles ont beaucoup aimé Pourriez-vous donner ce modèle en taille 6/9/12 mois ? Merci Chrsitine Merci

16.11.2022 - 14:50

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Christine, nous n'avons pas ce modèle exact en taille 6/9 mois, mais vous trouverez ici, parmi nos modèles de gilets bébé, des modèles de cache-coeurs qui pourraient vous convenir. Bon tricot!

16.11.2022 - 15:48

country flag Sophie TRON LOZAI wrote:

Rang n 3 du bord picot: Glisser la 1ère m à l'end, 1 m end, passer la m glissée par-dessus la m tricotée, 1 m end, passer la dernière m de l'aiguille droite par-dessus la 1ère, 2 diminutions - 2 diminutions ???? supplémentaires ou juste un résumé des 2 dernières diminutions? merciiiii

14.12.2021 - 22:26

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Tron Lozai, elles ne sont pas en plus, c'est la "conclusion" de ce que l'on vient de faire, le texte a été modifié dans ce sens pour être plus clair. Bon tricot!

15.12.2021 - 08:09

country flag Monica Donoso Rojas wrote:

Cuando llego a la mitad del hombro sigo tejiendo dos centímetros que serán parte de la espalda?

22.10.2021 - 22:40

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Mónica, sí, tienes que trabajar los 2 cm desde el MP (= centro del hombro) en cada hombro y después unir los hombros y montar los puntos para la espalda.

24.10.2021 - 12:23

country flag Marie-françoise wrote:

Bonjour je vais faire la taille 9/10 ans je voudrais la mesure de la manche seulement pouvez vous me la donner (avec et sans revers ?) merci

29.09.2021 - 18:07

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marie-Françoise, vous montez 66 mailles au total pour la manche, autrement dit, la manche fera environ 39 cm - revers compris, la longueur du revers est ensuite au choix. Bon tricot!

30.09.2021 - 09:41

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