DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g

Order

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 43.70£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Highland Heather

Knitted DROPS dress with multi-coloured pattern, raglan and twined string with tassels in waist, worked top down in ”Karisma”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 172-5
DROPS design: Pattern no u-798
Yarn group B
----------------------------------------------------------
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
350-400-450-500-550-550 g colour no 72, light pearl grey
250-250-250-300-350-350 g colour no 21, medium grey
100-100-100-150-150-150 g colour no 39, dark old rose
50-50-100-100-100-100 g colour no 13, cerise
50 g for all sizes of the following colours:
colour no 68, light sky blue
Colour no 65, denim blue
colour no 52, dark mustard
colour no 33, medium pink

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 and 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm) SIZE 3.5 mm for rib - or size needed to get 22 sts x 30 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

More like this:
Women Dresses & Tunics assembly free colourwork raglan round neck stripes top down waist shaping

UK
Ireland

DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 43.70£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5 – see diagram for correct size. Work all sts in stocking st.

PATTERN TIP:
In size M, L and XL this round is a round in pattern with 2 colours. Cut the yarn if needed in pattern colour to avoid a long gap under sleeve. In size S, XXL and XXXL cast on on a round in base colour.

RAGLAN:
Inc 1 st on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 1 st remains before marker thread, 1 YO, K 2 (marker thread is in the middle of these sts), 1 YO. On next round K the YOs to make holes.

INCREASE TIP-1:
Work until 2 st remains before marker in the side, 1 YO, K 4 (marker is in the middle of these sts), 1 YO. On next round K YOs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2:
To calculate how often inc should be done, use the total no of sts on round (e.g. 192 sts) and divide by no of inc to be done (e.g. 12) = 16. I.e. in this example make a YO after approx. every 16th st worked. On next round work YO´s twisted to avoid holes.

ELEVATION:
Work an elevation in stocking st in the back of neck from mid back as follows: NOTE: On every turn in the middle of piece slip 1st st, tighten yarn and continue to work. Work 10-11-12-13-13-14 sts, turn, tighten yarn and work 20-22-24-26-26-28 sts. Turn, tighten yarn and work 35-38-41-44-44-47 sts, turn, tighten yarn and work 50-54-58-62-62-66 sts. Turn, tighten yarn and work 65-70-75-80-80-85 sts, turn, tighten yarn and work 80-86-92-98-98-104 sts. Turn and work until mid back.

DECREASE TIP:
Work until 4 sts remain before marker, K 2 tog, K 4 (marker is in the middle of these sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

CAST-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight cast-off edge you may use a needle ½ size larger.
----------------------------------------------------------

DRESS:
Worked in the round, top down. Rounds start mid back.

YOKE:
Cast on 110-115-130-135-145-150 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm with light pearl grey. Work rib = K 2/P 3 for 6 rounds. Then work 1 round in stocking st while inc 2-5-10-17-19-26 sts evenly = 112-120-140-152-164-176 sts. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm.
Insert 1 marker in the first st = mid back (let this marker follow in piece. Then work ELEVATION - see explanation above - in the neck. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Continue in stocking st, on first round insert 4 marker threads and 3 markers more (= 4) in the piece as follows: Work the first 18-19-21-24-27-30 sts (= half back piece), insert a marker thread, work the next 11-12-15-15-15-15 sts, insert a marker in the last st on right needle (= mid st on sleeve), work the next 10-11-14-14-14-14 sts (= sleeve), insert a marker thread, work the next 18-19-21-24-27-30 sts, insert a marker in the last st on right needle (= mid st on front piece), work the next 17-18-20-23-26-29 sts (= front piece), insert a marker thread, work the next 11-12-15-15-15-15 sts, insert a marker in the last st on right needle (= mid st on sleeve), work the next 10-11-14-14-14-14 sts (= sleeve), insert a marker thread, work the last 17-18-20-23-26-29 sts (= half back piece).

READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Now work PATTERN according to diagram A.1. NOTE: St with marker on back piece, front piece and sleeves should fit st with arrow in diagram. Count out towards the side (i.e. the pattern will not fit in transitions between body and sleeves).
Work st on each side of marker thread (i.e. in each raglan) in base colour in pattern. AT THE SAME TIME on first round inc for RAGLAN - see explanation above, in every transition between body and sleeves (= 8 sts inc on round). Inc like this every other round 21-24-25-27-29-32 times in total = 280-312-340-368-396-432 sts. NOTE: Work the new sts in pattern. When all inc are done, piece measures 22-24-25-26-29-31 cm from shoulder and last round worked is marked with arrow in A.1. Now continue next round in pattern as follows: Work the first 39-43-46-51-56-62 sts (= half back piece), cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new sts under sleeve with base colour in pattern – READ PATTERN TIP, put the next 63-71-79-83-87-93 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), work the next 77-85-91-101-111-123 sts (= front piece), cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new sts under sleeve in base colour in pattern, put the next 63-71-79-83-87-93 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), work the remaining 38-42-45-50-55-61 sts on round (= half back piece).

BODY:
There are now 170-186-202-222-246-274 sts for body. Insert a marker thread in each side, in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 new sts that were cast on under sleeves. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Continue with the remaining rounds in A.1. NOTE: The pattern will not fit in each side. Then continue with medium grey. When piece measures 4 cm, dec 1 st on each side of marker threads - READ DECREASE TIP (= 4 sts dec). Dec like this every 4th round 2 times in total = 162-178-194-214-238-266 sts. When piece measures 7 cm, work a round with eyelet holes as follows:
K 1, * K 2, K 2 tog, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* until 1 sts remain, K 1. Work 2 more rounds in medium grey.
Now work pattern A.2 (= 2 rounds). Then work with light pearl grey until piece measures 20 cm in all sizes, AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 st on each side of marker threads in each side – READ INCREASE TIP-1. Inc like this every 5th-5th-5th-4th-4th-4th round 6 times in total = 186-202-218-238-262-290 sts. Work 1 round while adjusting the no of sts to 192-204-228-240-264-300. Work A.3 (= 12 sts) 16-17-19-20-22-25 times on round. On 6th round in A.3 inc 12-12-24-24-24-24 sts evenly – READ INCREASE TIP-2 = 204-216-252-264-288-324 sts. When A.3 has been worked vertically, continue with medium grey. On first round with medium grey inc 12 sts evenly in all sizes = 216-228-264-276-300-336 sts. When piece measures 39-40-42-43-43-44 cm, work A.4 (= 12 sts) 18-19-22-23-25-28 times on round. On 8th round in diagram inc 8-12-8-12-20-16 sts evenly = 224-240-272-288-320-352 sts. When A.4 has been worked, switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm. Work 1 round with light pearl grey while inc 31-45-48-47-55-63 sts evenly = 255-285-320-335-375-415 sts. Work rib = K 2/P 3 for 5 cm. Cast off with K over K and P over P - READ CAST-OFF TIP. Piece measures 80-83-86-89-92-95 cm in total from shoulder.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Slip sts from stitch holder back on double pointed needles size 4 mm and pick up 1 st in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 sts under sleeve = 71-79-89-93-99-107 sts. Insert 1 marker thread between the new sts under sleeve (= beg of round), and keep the marker in mid st on top of sleeve. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Continue with pattern as on body, i.e. the remaining rounds in A.1 - st with marker in mid on top of sleeve should fit st with arrow in diagram, the pattern will not fit mid under sleeve. When A.1 is done continue with medium grey and A.2 as on body. NOTE! Do not work eyelet row on sleeve, then continue with light pearl grey, AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 4 cm, dec 1 st on each side of marker thread under sleeve. Dec like this every 8th-6th-5th-5th-4th-3rd round 13-16-20-21-23-26 times in total = 45-47-49-51-53-55 sts. AT THE SAME TIME when sleeve measures 30-29-28-28-27-25 cm (NOTE: Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke) - work A.5 – st with marker mid on top of sleeve should fit st with arrow in diagram. When A.5 has been worked, continue with A.4 over A.5. NOTE: Do not inc on round with star. When A.4 has been worked, continue with light pearl grey until finished measurements. When piece measures 43-42-41-41-40-38 cm, switch to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm. Work 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME inc 5-3-6-4-7-5 sts evenly = 50-50-55-55-60-60 sts. Work rib = K 2/P 3 for 3 cm. Cast off sts with K over K and P over P. Work the other sleeve the same way.

TWINED STRING WITH TASSELS:
Cut 3 lengths of 3 metres each with cerise. Twine the strands tog until they resist, fold them double so that they twine again. Make a knot at each end. Thread tie up and down through eyelet row in waist.
Make a tassel in each end as follows:
Cut 12 strands with cerise of 16 cm, thread them through knot at the end of string. Twine a strand around the top of tassel several times and tie this string to keep the tassel tog. Make another tassel in the other end of string with dark old rose.

This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.

Updated online: 18.02.2022
Now continue next round in pattern as follows: Work the first 39-43-46-51-56-62 sts (= half back piece), cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new sts under sleeve with base colour in pattern – READ PATTERN TIP, put the next 63-71-79-83-87-93 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), work the next 77-85-91-101-111-123 sts (= front piece), cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new sts under sleeve in base colour in pattern, put the next 63-71-79-83-87-93 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), work the remaining 38-42-45-50-55-61 sts on round (= half back piece).

Diagram

	= light pearl grey
	= denim blue
	= medium pink
	= cerise
	= dark mustard
	= light sky blue
	= dark old rose
	= medium grey
	= inc row - see explanation in pattern
	= arrow marks mid st in diagram - see explanation above

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Comments / Questions (54)

Virginie wrote:

Merci beaucoup ;)

07.09.2024 - 11:19

Bonjour, je souhaiterais tricoter cette robe sans jacquard. Combien de pelotes aurais-je besoin? Merci beaucoup ! Bien cordialement

27.08.2024 - 07:08

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Virginie, comme cette robe a été tricotée en jacquard, nous avons seulement les quantités indiquées pour chaque couleur (et nous n'avons plus la robe), vous pouvez additionner les différentes couleurs entre elles, il vous en faudra probablement un peu moins, vous pouvez également vous inspirer d'un modèle similaire de même tension (cf ici pour trouver les robes de tension similaire). Bon tricot!

28.08.2024 - 07:43

Isabelle Francesconi wrote:

Bonjour, Merci beaucoup pour votre réponse. Et toutes mes excuses pour vous avoir dérangé avec mes questions. Car après plusieurs lectures, j'ai enfin compris comment tricoter ! Et c'est superbe ! Pour moi, il fallait lire et relire plusieurs fois les explications. Peut-être encore besoin de vous un peu plus tard :)) Merci beaucoup de votre aide, Bonne journée

01.12.2023 - 12:59

Je ne sais pas commencer le jacquard. Suis en L. Si je fais correspondre ma maille avec le marqueur dans le dos avec le milieu du diagramme (avec la flèche) le jacquard ne suit pas. Tricoter 1 maille de chaque coté des fils marqueurs (ceux des raglans) veut dire augmenter 1 maille de chaque coté ? Je dois commencer le jacquard (là ou il y a la flèche) après combien de mailles en partant du milieu du dos ? Merci d'avance pour vos explications.

30.11.2023 - 17:44

Bonjour Mme Francesconi, dans cette leçon, nous expliquons comment centrer un diagrammes vous allez procéder de la même façon de sorte que la maille avec le marqueur dans le dos, le devant et les manches doit être celle avec la flèche dans le diagramme (ainsi cette maille est au milieu dos/devant/manche); les 2 mailles des raglans (1 maille de chaque côté des fils marqueurs) se tricotent en jersey simplement (pas en jacquard) dans la couleur de fond. Bon tricot!

01.12.2023 - 08:22

Je ne comprends pas très bien la ré-hausse. Il faut à chaque fois tourner, glisser la 1ere maille, serrer le fil, tricoter ? C’est bien cela ? Il faut également glisser à chaque fois la 1ere maille ? Aussi, on ne met pas plutôt le marqueur avant la 1ere maille plutôt que dans la maille ? ce n’est pas mieux de mettre ces marqueurs sur les aiguilles ? plus facile de les faire suivre… Merci beaucoup d’avance pour votre réponse. Isabelle

25.11.2023 - 15:34

Bonjour Mme Francesconi, pour éviter les trous des rangs raccourcis, on va glisser la 1ère maille au début de chacun des rangs raccourcis, ainsi, en taille S, tricotez 10 mailles, tournez, glissez la 1ère maille et tricotez 19 mailles (soit 20 au total en comptant la maille glissée), et ainsi de suite. C'est la technique que l'on montre dans cette vidéo. Bon tricot!

27.11.2023 - 08:37

Stacey Jefferies wrote:

When it says "238-262-290 sts. Work 1 round while adjusting the no of sts to 192-204-228-240-264-300", where do you increase the 2 stiches (138-140) wihtout adjusting the side or centre markers???

19.08.2023 - 16:18

Dear Stacey, from here on out, the markers won't matter, since you will simply work the same over all stitches or increase evenly the whole round. So you can increase the stitches wherever you prefer, for example one on each side; it won't affect the pattern in any way. Happy knitting!

20.08.2023 - 17:34

Makala Jefferies wrote:

Where exactly do you add the amendment please? (Should this not be in the part of the pattern where the amendment occurs?) If using your colours, is this entire row done in the base colour of light grey?

20.06.2023 - 17:46

Dear Mrs Jefferies, if you printed the pattern after the correction date, then the online pattern is already fixed - when working diagrams, repeat the diagrams all the round, this means repeat the colour(s) as shown in the diagrams to the end of the round. Read more about diagrams here. Happy knitting!

21.06.2023 - 07:45

Makala wrote:

Has anyone converted this from a top down round needle to a bottom up straight needle? Whilst I am not a novice, I am not advanced, however, I have had advanced knitters take a look at this pattern, and they were about as confused as I am!!!

19.06.2023 - 10:12

Hi Makala, how to adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles you will find HERE. In this case working a dress top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps. Happy knitting!

19.06.2023 - 13:34

Mieke wrote:

Ik heb een foto van mijn versie van dit model deze morgen gepubliceerd in de drops workshop op fb. Ik had erbij geschreven dat ik er 1 jaar over gedaan heb. Blijkbaar was dat genoeg om mijn post te verwijderen, owv ‘bepaalde trefwoorden ‘. Wat heb ik fout gedaan?

22.11.2022 - 12:04

Dag Mieke,

Wat jammer! Wat de reden precies is geweest weet ik niet, maar je zou het beste even contact op kunnen nemen met DROPS via facebook hierover.

22.11.2022 - 20:58

Susanne wrote:

Jeg strikker str M. Selve kjolen passer fint men ærmerne bliver for løse/store. Jeg har prøver at lave indtagninger på hver 5. Pind i stedet for på hver 6., og jeg har starter indtagninger med det samme og ikke efter ærmet måler 4 cm. Men stadig er ærmet for løs. Har I en løsning på problemet? Kan jeg strikke ærmerne på en mindre pind feks. 3,5 og tage ind på hver 4. Pind? Eller har I andre forslag?

20.08.2022 - 10:56

Hei Susanne. Om du bytter til p. 3,5 vil du muligens se en "overgang" som du ikke vil ha, der du går fra p. 4,0 til 3,5. Hvordan er strikkefastheten din i forhold til det som er opplyst i oppskriften? Når du ser på cm målene på målskissen, rundt øvre del av ermet, hvordan er det i forhold til armene dine. Du kan evnt prøve å felle ofter, men jevnt fordelt. Om du regner ut fra strikkefastheten hvor mange masker du ønsker å ha til slutt, kan du evnt felle flere masker. mvh DROPS Design

22.08.2022 - 13:20