DROPS / 173 / 13

Cornfield by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket with lace pattern and shawl collar in ”Karisma”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no u-795
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
550-600-650-700-800-850 g colour no 52, mustard

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 3.5 mm for garter st - or size needed to get 22 sts x 30 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON: Arched (white), NO 522: 5-5-6-6-6-6 pieces.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 2.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS. See diagram for correct size.

DECREASE TIP:
All dec are done from RS!
Work until 3 sts remain before marker, K 2 tog (= 1 st dec), K 2 (marker is in the middle of these 2 sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 1 st dec).

INCREASE TIP:
Work until 1 sts remain before marker in the side, 1 YO, work 2 sts in stocking st (marker is in the middle of these sts), 1 YO (= 2 sts inc). Work YO twisted on next row to avoid holes.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = K tog second and third st from edge and make 1 YO.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 6, 15, 24, 33 and 42 cm
SIZE M: 7, 16, 25, 34 and 43 cm
SIZE L: 6, 14, 22, 30, 38 and 46 cm.
SIZE XL: 7, 15, 23, 31, 39 and 47 cm.
SIZE XXL: 6, 15, 24, 33, 41 and 49 cm.
SIZE XXXL: 8, 17, 26, 34, 42 and 50 cm.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on needle.

BODY:
Cast on 230-238-254-274-302-326 sts (incl 5 band sts in each side of piece) on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Karisma. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm. On next row insert 2 markers in the piece as follows: Work 5 band sts in garter st, 55-57-61-66-73-79 sts in stocking st, insert 1 marker (= right front piece), 110-114-122-132-146-158 sts in stocking st (= back piece), insert 1 marker, 55-57-61-66-73-79 sts in stocking st, finish with 5 band sts in garter st (= left front piece). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION Work band sts in garter st until finished measurements. Remember BUTTONHOLES - see explanation above. When piece measures 7 cm, dec 1 st on each side of each markers (= 4 sts dec) - READ DECREASE TIP! Dec like this every 1½ cm 11 times in total = 186-194-210-230-258-282 sts.

When piece measures 25 cm, work next row from RS as follows: Work 5 band sts in garter st, * A.1a (= 10-10-11-11-12-13 sts), repeat A.2a (= 11-11-12-12-13-14 sts) 3 times in total in width (= 33-33-36-36-39-42 sts), P 1, 0-4-4-14-20-24 sts in stocking st (marker is in the middle of these sts), P 1, repeat A.3 (= 11-11-12-12-13-14 sts) 3 times in total in width (= 33-33-36-36-39-42 sts), A.4 (= 10-10-11-11-12-13 sts) *, repeat from *-* 2 times in total, finish with 5 band sts in garter st. When A.1a to A.4a have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 170-178-194-214-242-266 sts. Then work A.1b to A.4b over A.1a to A.4a vertically.

When piece measures 27 cm, inc 1 st on each side of each marker (= 4 sts inc) - READ INCREASE TIP! Inc like this every 2-1½-1½-1½-2-2 cm 6-8-9-9-8-8 times in total = 194-210-230-250-274-298 sts. P YOs twisted on next row, they should not make holes. Then work these sts in stocking st. When piece measures 40-41-42-43-44-45 cm, cast off for armholes on next row from RS as follows: Work 48-52-57-61-67-73 sts (incl band sts = right front piece), cast off the next 6-6-6-8-8-8 sts (= 3-3-3-4-4-4 sts on each side of marker), work 86-94-104-112-124-136 sts (= back piece), cast off the next 6-6-6-8-8-8 sts (= 3-3-3-4-4-4 sts on each side of marker), work the remaining 48-52-57-61-67-73 sts (incl band sts = left front piece) = 48-52-57-61-67-73 sts on each front piece and 86-94-104-112-124-136 sts on back piece.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 48-52-57-61-67-73 sts. Continue working pattern as before and cast off for armhole at beg of every row from RS as follows: Cast off 3 sts 0-0-0-0-1-1 time in total, 2 sts 0-2-2-4-4-4 times in total, and then 1 st 2-2-3-3-2-4 times in total = 46-46-50-50-54-58 sts. Work next row as follows from RS: K 1, P 1, A.3 a total of 3 times in width as before, A.4 over the next 9-9-10-10-11-12 sts as before and finish with 5 band sts in garter st. Continue pattern like this. When piece measures 57-59-61-63-65-67 cm (adjust so that next row is from RS), switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work 1 ridge over all sts. On next row from RS cast off the first 28-29-31-31-34-38 sts for shoulder = 18-17-19-19-20-20 sts remain for shawl collar.

Work short rows over the remaining sts (= for shawl collar), beg mid front (1st row = WS) as follows: * Work 2 rows back and forth over the first 11-10-12-12-13-13 sts, work 2 rows back and forth over all sts *, repeat from *-* until shawl collar measures 8-8-9-9-10-10 cm at the shortest. Cast off.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work and cast off as left front piece but reversed. I.e. cast off for armhole at beg of row from WS. Work pattern A.1 instead of A.4 and A.2 instead of A.3. Shawl collar beg from RS.

BACK PIECE:
= 86-94-104-112-124-136 sts. Continue working pattern as before and cast off for armhole at beg of every row in each side of piece as follows: Cast off 3 sts 0-0-0-0-1-1 time in total, 2 sts 0-2-2-4-4-4 times in total, and then 1 st 2-2-3-3-2-4 times in total = 82-82-90-90-98-106 sts. Work next row as follows from RS: Work 1 st in stocking st, P 1, repeat A.3 a total of 3 times in width as before, A.4 over the next 9-9-10-10-11-12 sts as before, A.1 over the next 9-9-10-10-11-12 sts as before, repeat A.2 a total of 3 times in width as before, finish with P 1 and 1 st in stocking st. When piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm, cast off the middle 24-24-26-26-28-28 sts = 29-29-32-32-35-39 sts on each shoulder. Now finish each shoulder separately. On next row from the neck, cast off 1 st = 28-29-31-31-34-38 sts remain on shoulder. Continue to work P over P and pattern, work the repetitions that do not fit pattern in stocking st. When piece measures 57-59-61-63-65-67 cm, switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm. Work 1 ridge in garter st over all sts. Cast off. Work the other shoulder the same way. Piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm in total.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 42-44-46-48-50-52 sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm with Karisma. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm. Work in stocking st. Insert 1 marker at the beg of the round. When piece measures 10-8-6-10-10-7 cm, inc 1 st on each side of marker (= 2 sts inc). Inc like this every 2-2-2-1½-1½-1½ cm 17-18-19-20-21-22 times in total = 76-80-84-88-92-96 sts. When piece measures 46-45-44-43-42-41 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders), cast off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side as follows: Cast off 3-3-3-4-4-4 sts 1 time, 2 sts 3 times and 1 st 6 times, then cast off 2 sts in each side until piece measures 53 cm, then cast off 3 sts 1 time in each side. Cast off the remaining sts, the piece measures 54 cm. Knit another sleeve.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew the collar tog mid back and sew it to the neckline. Sew in sleeves. Sew the buttons on to the left band.

Diagram

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= 1 YO between 2 sts
= K 2 tog
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.




Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 173-13) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (16)

Małgorzata 19.08.2019 - 19:01:

Witam sweter jest w rozmiarze XXL i jak przerabiam pierwszy rząd zostaje mi 8 oczek

DROPS Design 07.06.2020 kl. 22:24:

Witaj Małgorzato! Przepraszam za tak późną odpowiedź. Jeśli będziesz w przyszłości miała pytania, proszę zaznacz w formularzu PYTANIE, a nie KOMENTARZ, wtedy odpowiemy w przeciągu 2-3 dni. W rozmiarze XXL masz na początku 302 oczka, w rzędzie w którym umieszczasz markery jest ich tyle samo. Być może w którymś miejscu pomylił ci się rozmiar (dla XXL zawsze bierz przedostatnią cyfrę). A propos, czy już zagłosowałaś na nową kolekcję DROPS Jesień/Zima, zapraszamy serdecznie!

Małgorzata 17.08.2019 - 06:34:

Witam mam problem ze wzorem zostają mi oczka i nie wiem co robie źle

DROPS Design 19.08.2019 kl. 16:20:

Witaj Małgosiu! Jaki rozmiar wykonujesz i w którym miejscu we wzorze się znajdujesz? Dokładniej opisz problem. Pozdrawiamy

Milada 11.06.2019 - 08:26:

Zdravím, děkuji za tento krásný model, mám dotaz: šálový límec se plete na jehlicích č. 3,5 nebo jehlicích č. 4? Děkuji za odpověď.

DROPS Design 06.12.2019 kl. 17:26:

Dobrý den, Milado, šálový límec pleteme na jehlicích č.3,5. Hodně zdaru! Hana

Marie 10.10.2018 - 18:53:

What is the gauge for this sweater??

DROPS Design 11.10.2018 kl. 08:52:

Dear Marie, you'll find the gauge in the Header: 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette stitch = 4"x4" with needle size 4 mm and 22 sts x 30 rows in stockinette stitch = 4"x4" with needle size 3,5 mm. Happy knitting!

Mrs J Clemett 05.12.2016 - 12:10:

Thank you. Thought the p1 was part of the first set of numbers! Love the yarn, it's lovely to work with.

Julie Clemett 03.12.2016 - 22:30:

The beginning of the lace pattern doesn't seem to add up. I'm making the XL size and I have 60 stitches on each front and 110 for the back. The pattern says to knit 5sts garter, plus 11 for the first lace panel then 3 times 12sts of the second panel then 4sts of purl. That's 56 sts. 2 of those sts are supposed to be past the marker? That's 6sts I'm out. Can you help me please?

DROPS Design 05.12.2016 kl. 09:17:

Dear Mrs Clemett, you are working 5 sts in garter st, A.1a = 11 sts, then work A.1b over the next 36 sts, P1 = 53 sts, ie 7 sts left before marker on the side. Work now 14 sts in stocking st = 7 sts to marker + 7 sts past marker. Happy knitting!

Lena Pettersson 16.11.2016 - 09:54:

Varför rullar sig nederkanten? Har försökt både med storlek 3.5 och 4.0 på stickorna Tacksam för svar. Hälsningar Lena Pettersson

DROPS Design 17.11.2016 kl. 13:39:

Hej Lena. En lille rillekant kan rulle. Du kan enten presse den flad med et strygejern naar du er faerdig (laeg et fugtigt viskestykke imellem) eller du kan strikke flere riller saa kanten bliver lidt "tungere" og ikke ruller saa nemt.

Sophie Nieuwenhuizen 07.08.2016 - 20:22:

Ik kan het patroon vanaf blad 4 niet meer printen. Alles is dan blanco. Ik wil dit patroon graag breien.

DROPS Design 08.08.2016 kl. 07:53:

Deze vraag is al beantwoord, zie onder.

Sophie Nieuwenhuizen 07.08.2016 - 09:02:

Ik kan het patroon vanaf blad 4 niet meer printen. Alles is dan blanco. Ik wil dit patroon graag breien.

DROPS Design 07.08.2016 kl. 14:12:

Ik heb hier getest en kan alle blandzijden printen. Het ligt dus niet aan de website. Wellicht licht het aan de instellingen van uw printer, wij raden u aan daar naar te kijken. Het kan ook zijn dat u niet de laatste versie van uw browser hebt geïnstalleerd. U kunt het ook met een andere browser proberen.

Lorraine 26.06.2016 - 06:21:

Love the lace pattern and also the collar on the garment. Hope it is available in English soon. It is winter here in Australia so would like to make it now!

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