DROPS / 169 / 35

Oasis by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS jacket worked in a circle with lace and fan pattern in "BabyMerino". Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no bm-022
Yarn group A
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Size: S/M – L/XL – XXL/XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
450-550-700 g color no 04, yellow

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3.5 mm/E/4 – or size needed to get 22 dc x 12 rows = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 4.20 $ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 37.80$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6.

CROCHET INFO:
Beg every round with 3 ch and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch.

CROCHET TIP (applies to sleeves):
After last dc on the round, continue to next round with 1 dc in next ch-space (= first ch-space on next round). NOTE: Insert 1 marker at the beg of round between last ch and first dc on the next round, move the marker upwards. NOTE: BE CAREFUL NOT TO DISPLACE THE MARKER.

DECREASE TIP:
Work 1 dc around next ch-space but wait with last pull through, work next dc around next ch-space (do not work 2 ch between dc), on last pull through, pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook.
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CIRCLE:
Worked in the round from the middle of circle and outwards. Work 8 ch on hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 with Baby Merino and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. Then repeat A.1 7 times in total on round - READ CROCHET INFO. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, work as follows: * Work A.2 over fan in A.1, work A.3 over the remaining dc/ch in A.1 *, repeat from *-* 7 times in total. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! When A.2 and A.3 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 378 dc/ch on round (= 4 dc/ch in every repetition of A.2 and 50 dc/ch in every repetition of A.3). NOTE: Every fan consist of 3 dc worked tog (= 1 dc), 2 ch and 3 dc worked tog (= 1 dc). Then repeat A.2 and A.3 vertically, continue with pattern over the remaining dc/ch as before (i.e. Work fan over fan and 1 dc around every ch-space and 2 ch between every dc as before). Insert 1 marker before every A.2 (= 7 markers in piece). First marker marks beg of round. Move the markers upwards when working.

Work until piece measures 18-19-20 cm / 7"-7½"-8" the middle (= 36-38-40 cm / 14 1/4"-15"-15 3/4" in diameter). Then work as follows: Work pattern as before until 2nd marker (= 1 repetition of pattern), skip 16-17-18 ch-spaces (includes ch-space in A.2 and between fans in A.3 i.e. all ch-spaces), work 48-51-54 ch for armhole, work pattern as before until 16-17-18 ch-spaces remain before 7th marker (includes ch-space in A.2 and fans between A.3 i.e all ch-spaces), skip these ch-spaces, work 48-51-54 ch for armhole, work as before the rest of round. Then work pattern as before, work around ch-row over each armhole. When piece measures approx. 39-42-45 cm / 15 1/4"-16½"-17 3/4" from middle (= 78-84-90 cm / 30 3/4"-33"-35½" in diameter), work back and forth over front pieces. Fasten off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work back and forth. Insert 1 marker in piece, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Start at 2nd marker. Work from RS: 1 sc in ch-space before A.2, ch 4, continue to work pattern as before (i.e. A.2 and A.3) until 4th marker, finish with 1 dc around next ch-space, turn piece.

Now work short rows as follows:
Work ch 3, skip 1 ch-space, 1 sc around next ch-space, 3 ch (these 2 ch-spaces will not be worked in again), 1 dc around next ch-space, work pattern as before until 2 ch-spaces remain (i.e. ch-spaces between dc, these ch-spaces will no longer be worked in), turn work. Continue pattern and short rows like this. I.e. continue to inc in A.3. Work until piece measures 16-17-18 cm / 6 1/4"-6 3/4-7'' from marker. Fasten off.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work as left front piece but now work between 5th and 7th marker.

EDGE:
Work 1 edge around the entire jacket as follows: Start from 1st marker. Work * 1 sc around first/next ch-space, ch 3, 1 sc around next ch-space *, repeat from *-* around the entire circle. Fasten off.

SLEEVE:
Sleeve is worked in the round, top down. Work 96-102-108 ch on hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 with Baby Merino.
ROUND 1: Work ch 3, * ch 2, skip ch 2, 1 dc in next ch *, repeat from *-* in ch on row, work 2 ch and 1 dc around the first 3 ch = 32-34-36 ch-spaces - READ CROCHET TIP - explanation above.

Continue to work 2 ch and 1 dc around every ch-space. When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', dec 1 ch-space before marker - READ DECREASE TIP! NOTE: BE CAREFUL NOT TO DISPLACE THE MARKER.
Repeat dec alternately on each side of marker every
2½-3-3 cm / 7/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/8" 13-11-11 more times = 18-22-24 ch-spaces. When piece measures 42 cm / 16½'' for all sizes, finish round with 1 sl st in last ch mid under sleeve. Continue in the round as follows: Work A.4 9-11-12 times on round. Repeat A.4 2 times in total vertically. Then work A.5 over A.4. When A.5 has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.6 over A.5 2 times in total vertically. Fasten off. The piece now measures approx. 53 cm / 21'' in all sizes. Work another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Work sleeves tog with circle as follows: 1 sl st, * ch 2, 1 sl st around next ch-space *, repeat from *-*.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= 8 ch, finish with 1 sl st in first ch
= ch
= dc around ch-space
= fan: Work 3 dc tog around ch-space as follows: Work 1 dc around ch-space but wait with last pull through (= 2 loops on hook), 2 dc around same ch-space the same way, pull yarn through all 4 loops on hook.
= last round on previous diagram, this round has already been worked
= beg here to work left front piece (= at 2nd marker)
= beg here to work right front piece (= at 5th marker)



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 169-35) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (31)

Odette Fox 16.12.2019 - 13:13:

Danke. Da ich nicht wende, weiß ich jetzt nicht, wo der erste Fächer hinkommt, da die 3 Luftmaschen direkt über dem letzten Fächer sind und nicht über dem Luftmaschenraum. Ich habe jetzt die Anfrage auf Facebook gestellt, vielleicht kann mir jemand anhand meines Fotos zeigen, wie es funktioniert. Danke für die Hilfe hier.

Odette Fox 16.12.2019 - 11:53:

Meine Frage wurde leider nicht beantwortet. Arbeit wenden oder nicht wenden? Ich weiß, dass ich in Runden ( Anfang 3 Steigluftmaschen und Ende mit 1 Kettmasche) arbeite und nicht in fortlaufenden Spiralrunden.

DROPS Design 16.12.2019 kl. 12:25:

Liebe Frau Fox, ja genau, so wird die Arbeit gehäkelt = in der Runde, dh immer von der Hinreihen = nicht wenden am Ende jeder Runde (nur wenn Sie dann in Hin und Rückreihen später häkeln). Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Odette Fox 16.12.2019 - 07:58:

Guten Morgen Ich scheitere in der deutschen Anleitung bereits nach der ersten Runde. A1 zeigt, dass die Fächer um die Luftmaschen gearbeitet werden sollen. Muss ich die Arbeit nach jeder Runde wenden? Es ist leider nirgendwo angegeben. Es soll meine erste Jacke von Drops werden, allerdings verstehe ich die Anleitung bisher gar nicht (bin kein Anfänger). Danke für die Hilfe.

DROPS Design 16.12.2019 kl. 09:13:

Liebe Frau Fox, A.1 wird in der Runde gehäkelt - so lesen Sie A.1 in jeder Runde von rechts nach links - jede Rd beginnen Sie mit 3 Lm - siehe HÄKELINFO. Hier lesen Sie mehr über Diagramme. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Judy 04.04.2019 - 18:59:

Some of the most beautiful patterns I've ever seen are on your site. However, most of them have only diagrams and partial diagrams at that. I don't work from diagrams, only written patterns. I certainly can't be the person who works this way. Won't you please add written instructions to your patterns so we can join in making your beautiful garments. PLEASE!!!!!

DROPS Design 05.04.2019 kl. 09:18:

Dear Judy, thank you very much, to help you crocheting from diagrams, you will find some explanations here. Happy crocheting!

Wendy Stephens 29.06.2018 - 17:14:

I am having difficulty understanding this pattern for some reason? I\\\'m not really used to following diagrams, only patterns in written form, so when it gives instructions it refers us to see the diagram. Is there a written pattern available (no diagram) or possibly a tutorial, or even close up\\\'s of the finished jacket to go by? I am also confused as to how you select your size? \\r\\nAny help would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!

DROPS Design 01.07.2018 kl. 03:35:

Dear Wendy, we are sorry, but we do not have a written out pattern for the diagramsm but you will find teh explanations for eaxg symbol just above the charts. There are also a some videos to help you along, you can find the links just below the pictures. However, if you still having problems, you can always ask for help in the store you bought your DROPS yarn from, Happy Crafting!

Parul Sehgal 25.01.2018 - 07:20:

What does going back and forth mean? How to do that?

DROPS Design 25.01.2018 kl. 08:45:

Dear Mrs Sehgal, this means to work in rows and not in round anymore. Happy crocheting!

Andrea Perren 30.05.2017 - 10:14:

Herzlichen Dank für die rasche Antwort. Dachte ich mir schon, dass ich falsch liege. Könnten Sie aber die Häkelschrift A4 bei der deutschen Anleitung überprüfen? Vorallem die Runde mit Lochmuster direkt oberhalb der 12x Stäbchenrunde.

DROPS Design 30.05.2017 kl. 11:43:

Liebe Frau Perren, Sie sollen auch immer die 12 Stb bei der 2. 3. und 4. Reihe haben, jeweils mit 2 Lm zwischen 2 Stb. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Andrea Perren 28.05.2017 - 11:29:

Ich bin am Ärmel. Ich habe die Länge erreicht und starte jetzt mit Muster A4. Erste Runde ist klar. Ich habe A4 12 x in der Runde gehäkelt. 2. Runde immer ein Stäbchen zwischen das Stäbchenmuster, dh ich habe um die Hälfte reduziert und nicht die gleiche Maschenzahl wie vorher. Ist das richtig? Wenn ich das ganze Muster A4 2x mache, reduziert es sich nochmals. Stimmt das?

DROPS Design 29.05.2017 kl. 09:54:

Liebe Frau Perren, beim A.4 soll die Maschenanzahl nicht reduziert werden, aber immer 12 x in der Runde häkeln. Es kann helfen, Fadenmarkierer zwischen jedem Rapport einsetzen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Andrea Perren 28.05.2017 - 11:27:

Ich bin am Ärmel. Ich habe die Länge erreicht und starte jetzt mit Muster A4. Erste Runde ist klar. Ich habe A4 12 x in der Runde gehäkelt. 2. Runde immer ein Stäbchen zwischen das Stäbchenmuster, dh ich habe um die Hälfte reduziert und nicht die gleiche Maschenzahl wie vorher. Ist das richtig? Wenn ich das ganze Muster A4 2x mache, reduziert es sich nochmals. Stimmt das?

Andrea Perren 17.04.2017 - 22:51:

Wieviel Wolle braucht es für die Ärmel alleine? Ich brauche mehr Wolle als erwartet, darum habe ich nicht mehr genug für die Ärmel.

DROPS Design 18.04.2017 kl. 11:35:

Liebe Frau Perren, wir haben nur Garnmenge für die ganze Jacke, Ihr DROPS Laden kann Ihnen aber sicher damit helfen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

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