DROPS / 69 / 10

DROPS 69-10 by DROPS Design

DROPS jacket with stripes and raglan seams in "Passion" and "Muskat". Crochet hat in "Muskat"

DROPS design: Model no BB-010
--------------------------------------------------------

Sizes: S - M - L - XL
Materials: DROPS Muskat from Garnstudio
150-150-150-150 g colour no 61, pale beige
100-100-100-100 g colour no 05, pale lilac
and use: DROPS Passion from Garnstudio
150-150-150-150 g colour no 02, beige
100-100-100-150 g colour no 06, vintage pink

DROPS Mother-of-pearl buttons no 522: 5-5-6-6 items
DROPS Needle sizes 4.5 mm and 5 mm
DROPS Crochet hook size 4.5 mm

Tension: 17 sts x 21 rows on needle size 5 mm and stocking st following pattern M.1 = 10 x 10 cm. Remember needle size is only a guide!

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.
DROPS Passion DROPS Passion
60% Wool, 25% Viscose, 15% Polyamide
Discontinued
find alternatives

100% Cotton
from 1.60 £ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 1.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Ridges (Back and forth on needle):
1 ridge of garter st = 2 rows. 1st row K, 2nd row K.

Pattern: See diagram - M.1, The whole pattern is in stocking st.

Knitting tips: Ribbon yarn has a tendency to twist when worked. You need to untwist it as you go for the best result.

Jacket: All parts are worked back and forth on needle and sewn together afterwards. There is no need to make the stripes on the body and sleeves match each other in the raglan seams.

Back piece: Read the knitting tips!

Cast on 72-80-86-92 sts (incl 1 edge st in each side) on needle size 4.5 mm with pale beige Muskat. Work 1 ridge, change to needle size 5 mm and continue with stocking st and M.1 upwards to full length.
Remember knitting tension! When piece measures 6 cm, inc in each side: 1 st 3-3-3-4 times every 7th-7th-8th-6th cm = 78-86-92-100 sts. When piece measures 31-32-34-35 cm cast off 4 sts for armholes in each side = 70-78-84-92 sts. Continue to cast off for raglan in each side every 2nd row: 1 st 18-18-15-13 times and then every row: 1 st 0-4-10-16 times. At the same time when piece measures 48-50-52-54 cm cast off middle 30 sts for neck = 2 sts remain on each shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 49-51-53-55 cm.

Left front piece: Cast on 38-42-45-48 sts (incl 1 edge st in side and 2 band sts towards mid front) on needle size 4.5 mm with beige Muskat. Work 1 ridge. Change to needle size 5 mm and continue with stocking st and M.1, with outermost band st in garter st. When piece measures 6 cm, inc in each side as for back piece = 41-45-48-52 sts. When piece measures 31-32-34-35 cm cast off 4 sts in the side for armhole = 37-41-44-48 sts. Continue to cast off for raglan in the side as for back piece. At the same time when piece measures 45-47-49-51 cm cast off 11 sts from mid front for neck. Continue to cast off from neck every 2nd row: 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 2 times. After all casting off for neck and raglan there are 2 sts remaining on needle. Cast off when piece measures 49-51-53-55 cm.

Right front piece: Cast on and work as for left but reversed. In addition cast off for button holes along band. 1 button hole = cast off 3rd st from edge, 1 YO over the cast off st on next row. Cast off for button hole when piece measures: Size S: 4, 14, 24, 34 and 44 cm. Size M: 6, 16, 26, 36 and 46 cm. Size L: 3, 12, 21, 30, 39 and 48 cm. Size XL: 5, 14, 23, 32, 41 and 50 cm.

Sleeves: Cast on 36-38-40-42 sts (incl 1 edge st in each) on needle size 4.5 mm with beige Passion. Work 2 ridges, change to needle size 5 mm and continue in stocking st and M.1. When piece measures 7 cm inc in each side: 1 st 12-12-11-11 times every 3.5 cm = 60-62-62-64 sts. When sleeve measures 49-49-50-50 cm cast off 4 sts in each side = 52-54-54-56 sts. Continue to cast off for raglan in each side every 2nd row: 1 st 20-21-21-22 times = 12 sts remaining on needle. Cast off when piece measures approx. 67-68-69-70 cm.

Assembly: Sew raglan seams inside 1 edge st. Pick up approx. 75 to 80 sts round neck on needle size 4.5 with beige Passion. Work 2 ridges, cast off. Sew sleeve and sideseams in one inside 1 edge st. Sew on buttons.

Crochet borders: Crochet on hook size 4.5 mm with beige Passion. Crochet 1 row dc along both bands and at bottom of body – crochet round 1 ridge at bottom of body and round 1 ridge st along bands. Adjust so that the border neither tightens nor loosens the edge of piece.

________________________________________


Crocheted DROPS hat in Muskat

Sizes: S/M - M/L
Head measurements: 55 - 57 cm.
Materials: DROPS Muskat from Garnstudio
200-200 g colour no 61, pale beige

DROPS Crochet hook size 3 mm

Tension: 21 dc x 24 rows = 10 x 10 cm on needle size 3 mm. Remember hook size is only a guide!

Lobster st: Crochet on RS dc the opposite way, i.e. from left to right without turning piece. Crochet 1 st in every dc from previous round.

Hat: Crochet 4 ch. Form them as a ring with 1 slip st. Crochet 1 dc. Crochet 6 dc in the ring, 1 ch.
1st round: Crochet 2 dc in every st = 12 dc, insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round.
2nd round: * 1 dc in the first st, 2 dc in the next st *, repeat from *-* to end of round = 18 dc.
3rd round: * 1 dc in the first 2 sts, 2 dc in next st *, repeat from *-* to end of round = 24 dc.
4th round: * 1 dc in the first 3 sts, 2 dc in the next st *, repeat from *-* to end of round = 30 dc.
5th round: * 1 dc in the first 4 sts, 2 dc in the next st *, repeat from *-* to end of round = 36 dc.

Continue to inc 6 dc per round – i.e. crochet 1 dc more between each inc until piece measures 9.5-10.5 cm from middle (circumference increases with approx. 2 cm every inc round – crochet until circumference = approx. 55-57 cm). Continue with dc without inc until piece measures approx.19-20 cm from middle. On the next round, crochet following increase: * 2 dc, crochet 2 dc in next st *, repeat from *-* to end of round. Then work 22 rounds without inc = hat brim. Finally, work 1 round with lobster st – see description above – round the outermost row of dc. Cut thread and fasten.

Assembly: Make a small double edge (=rulorkant) at top of hat as follows: where the inc at top of brim finishes make a fold on RS, sew back st through 2 layers inside 2 rounds dc on each side, i.e. there are 4 rounds dc in rulorkant. Fold the "hat brim" (i.e. the last 22 rounds) double to RS. Sew back st inside 2 rounds of dc outermost in the double edge in the same way as the rulorkant at top of hat.

Diagram

= Beige Passion
= Dusty pink Passion
= Light beige Muskat
= Light lilac Muskat

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 69-10) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (2)

PENILLEAULT 23.03.2017 - 01:25:

Bonjour Je souhaite réaliser ce modele et on nous signale ceci: DROPS Passion: Épuisé..... par quelle autre qualité de laine puis-jemlacer celle épuisée pour avoir le m^^eme rendu et le m^^eme coloris Merci beaucoup

DROPS Design 23.03.2017 kl. 08:37:

Bonjour Mme Penilleault, DROPS Passion appartenait au groupe D de nos fils, vous trouverez quelques suggestions d'alternatives et comment calculer de la nouvelle quantité. Votre magasin DROPS saura vous conseiller le choix des couleurs en fonction de ce que vous souhaitez. Bon tricot!

Dorien 25.07.2013 - 10:50:

De rand halverwege het hoedje begrijp ik niet. Ik maak een vouw, dat begrijp ik, dan haak ik dus door die twee lagen heen - aan de bovenkant? En dan de tweede toer aan weerszijden vasten haken: dat begrijp ik helemaal niet, wat moet ik hier doen?

DROPS Design 25.07.2013 kl. 21:22:

U vouwt de rand dubbel en haakt 2 toeren vasten. De eerste toer v door 2 toeren (1 + 1 dubbelgevouwen) en de volgende toer ook door beide lagen heen, dus door 2 toeren = door 4 toeren in totaal. De rand wordt dus 2 toeren van vasten en daarmee sluit u 4 toeren in.

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 69-10

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.