DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
 100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 25.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24
  1. Free patterns
  2. Baby (0-4)
  3. Vests & Tops
  4. DROPS Children
  5. 26
  6. 15

Goofy Gavin

Set of knitted vest with pockets and v-neck and short pants in stocking st in DROPS BabyMerino, plus knitted hat and socks with Nordic pattern and bow in garter st in DROPS Fabel. For baby and children in size 1 month - 6 years.

DROPS Children 26-15
DROPS design: Pattern no bm-004-bn
Yarn group A
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VEST:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4 - 5/6 years)
Size in cm: 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 - 92 - 98/104 - 110/116
Materials:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
100-100-150 (150-150-150) g colour no 19, grey

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 or 60 cm) SIZE 3 mm - or size needed to get 24 sts x 48 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS BUTTON: ARCHED (white), NO 521: 4 pieces in all sizes

SHORT PANTS:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4 - 5/6 years)
Size in cm: 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 - 92 - 98/104 - 110/116
Materials:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
100-150-150-(150-200-200) g colour no 19, grey

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 or 60 cm) SIZE 3 mm - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 or 60 cm) SIZE 2.5 mm - for edges.
DROPS BUTTON: ARCHED (white), NO 521: 2 pieces in all sizes

SOCKS:
Size: 15/17 - 18/19 - 20/21 (22/23 - 24/25 - 26/28)
To fit foot length: 10-11-12 (13-15-17) cm
Materials:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
50 g for all sizes of the following colours:
colour no 100, off white
colour no 106, red
colour no 310, sunset
colour no 602, silver fox

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm - or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in pattern = 10 x 10 cm.

HAT:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4 - 5/6) years
Head circumference:
approx. 40/42 - 42/44 - 44/46 (48/50 - 50/52 – 52/53) cm
Materials:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
50 g for all sizes in colour no 100, off white
50 g for all sizes in colour no 106, red
50 g for all sizes in colour no 310, sunset
50 g for all sizes in colour no 602, silver fox.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm – for rib

BOW:
Size: 6/12 months - 12/24 months (2/4 years - 6/8 years).
Materials:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
50 g colour no 106, red (bow weighs approx. 2-4 g).

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm - or size needed to get 26 sts x 51 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.
ACCESSORY: Silk ribbon or elastic for fastening the bow.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Baby Children Holidays & Celebrations Children Vests & Tops Children Trousers & Overalls Children Socks & Slippers Accessories Baby Vests & Tops Baby Trousers & Shorts Baby Socks & Bootiesbottom up christmas colourwork nordic stocking stitch v-neck
DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
 100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 25.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Comments (21)

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
VEST:

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on left band. 1 buttonhole = work until 4 sts remain on needle (seen from RS), make 1 YO, P 2 tog and P the last 2 sts.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE 1/3 MONTHS: 2, 7, 12 and 17 cm.
SIZE 6/9 MONTHS: 2, 7, 12 and 18 cm.
SIZE 12/18 MONTHS: 2, 8, 13 and 19 cm.
SIZE 2 YEARS: 2, 8, 14 and 20 cm.
SIZE 3/4 YEARS: 2, 9, 16 and 22 cm.
SIZE 5/6 YEARS: 2, 9, 16 and 24 cm.

DECREASE TIP (applies to armholes and V-neck):
Dec 1 st for armhole and V-neck on inside of 4 edge sts in garter st. All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows after 4 edge sts in garter st: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec as follows before 4 edge sts in garter st: Beg 2 sts before the 4 edge sts and K 2 tog.

KNITTING TIP:
Because of ridges in garter st and weight of yarn the piece can become somewhat longer when worn. To avoid the armhole from becoming too long you can crochet an edge around the armhole at the end.
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VEST:
Work piece in 3 parts, bottom up, up to after vent, then work body back and forth from mid front before dividing piece at the armhole and finish each part separately.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 30-33-35 (38-40-42) sts (incl 4 band sts towards mid front) on circular needle size 3 mm with Baby Merino. Work in GARTER ST back and forth on needle - see explanation above but P the 4 edge sts towards mid front on every row (= band). When piece measures 4-4-4 (6-6-6) cm – adjust so that last row is from WS, put piece aside.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as right front piece but reversed. In addition dec for BUTTON HOLES on band - see explanation above! When left front piece is the same length as right front piece - adjust so that last row is from WS, put piece aside.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 52-58-62 (68-72-76) sts on circular needle size 3 mm with Baby Merino. Work in garter st back and forth until back piece is the same length as both front pieces - adjust so that last row is from WS.

BODY:
Beg from RS and work sts from right front piece (remember to P band sts on every row until finished measurements), work sts from back piece and then sts from left front piece (remember to P band sts on every row until finished measurements) = 112-124-132 (144-152-160) sts on needle. Continue to work in garter st back and forth and P bands on every row. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION and remember to dec for BUTTONHOLES on left band. When piece measures 17-18-19 (20-22-24) cm, work next row from RS as follows: Work 27-30-32 (35-37-39) sts as before (= right front piece), cast off 6 sts for armhole, work 46-52-56 (62-66-70) sts as before (= back piece), cast off 6 sts for armhole and work the remaining 27-30-32 (35-37-39) sts as before (= left front piece). Finish each part separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 46-52-56 (62-66-70) sts. Continue to work in garter st back and forth on needle. AT THE SAME TIME on first row from RS, dec 1 st in each side for armholes - Read DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec in each side every 4th row (i.e. every other row from RS) 4 times in total = 38-44-48 (54-58-62) sts. Continue in garter st. When piece measures 23-25-27 (29-32-35) cm, cast off the middle 16-16-18 (20-20-20) sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. On next row from RS dec 1 st for neck - READ DECREASE TIP. K 1 row from WS and repeat dec on next row from neck = 9-12-13 (15-17-19) sts remain on shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 25-27-29 (31-34-37) cm. Repeat on the other shoulder.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 27-30-32 (35-37-39) sts. Continue back and forth as before while AT THE SAME TIME cast off for armhole in the side as on back piece. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 18-19-20 (21-23-25) cm, dec 1 st for V-neck towards mid front - READ DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every other row 14 times in all sizes and then every 4th row 0-0-1 (2-2-2) times in total. After all dec for armhole and V-neck, 9-12-13 (15-17-19) sts remain on needle. Continue until piece measures 25-27-29 (31-34-37) cm and cast off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 27-30-32 (35-37-39) sts. Work as right front piece but reversed - NOTE: Beg dec for V-neck approx. 1 cm after last buttonhole on band.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew on buttons (buttons on photo are sewn on with WS outwards).

POCKET:
Cast on 14-14-20 (20-24-24) sts on needle size 3 mm with Baby Merino. Continue in garter st until pocket measures 7-7-9 (9-12-12) cm, loosely cast off.
Knit another pocket. Fold the upper 1-2 cm on each pocket out towards RS and fasten edge in each side on pocket. Sew 1 pocket on each front piece with grafting/kitchener stitches (place pockets approx. 4-6 cm from mid front and approx. 3-6 cm from the bottom edge).

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SHORT PANTS:

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. On next round K YO twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP:
Beg 2 sts before marker and work as follows: K 2 tog, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
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SHORT PANTS:
Worked in the round from the waist down.
Cast on 104-112-128 (136-144-152) sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm with Baby Merino - beg of round = mid back. Work rib as follows: K 1, * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* until 3 sts remain and finish with P 2 and K 1. When rib measures 2 cm, work an eyelet row as follows: K 1, * P 2 tog, 1 YO, K 2 *, repeat from *-* until 3 sts remain, finish with P 2 tog, 1 YO and K 1. Continue to work until rib measures 3-3-3 (4-4-4) cm. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm and K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME inc 20-22-16 (18-20-20) sts evenly = 124-134-144 (154-164-172) sts.
ELEVATION AT THE BACK: Now work the pants higher at the back. Work in stocking st back and forth as follows: Beg mid back and K 6-6-7 (7-8-8), turn piece (to avoid holes, slip 1st st on return and tighten yarn). P 12-12-14 (14-16-16), turn piece. K 18-18-21 (21-24-24), turn piece. P 24-24-28 (28-32-32), turn piece. Continue like this by working 6-6-7 (7-8-8) sts more on every turn 6 more times (= 10 short rows in total). Then continue in stocking st in the round over all sts.
INCREASES: When piece measures 10-13-14 (15-16-18) cm from the waist (measured mid front), insert 1 marker at the beg of round and 1 marker after 62-67-72 (77-82-86) sts (marks mid front and mid back of pants). Then inc 1 st on each side of all these markers – READ INCREASE TIP (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc on every 3rd round a total of 5 times = 144-154-164 (174-184-192) sts. After last inc piece measures approx. 14-17-18 (19-20-22) cm from the waist (measures mid front).

LEG:
Beg mid back, work the first 72-77-82 (87-92-96) sts and slip the other sts on 1 stitch holder. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm and work in stocking st in the round. Insert 1 marker at beg of round = inside of leg. When 1 cm has been worked from where piece was divided, dec 1 st on each side of marker – SEE DECREASE TIP (= 2 sts dec). Repeat dec every 5th.-6th.-8th. (9th.-11th.-13th.) round 7 times in total in all sizes = 58-63-68 (73-78-82) sts.
When leg measures 12-14-17 (20-25-30) cm (last dec should be done), K 1 round while dec 8-9-8 (9-8-8) sts evenly = 50-54-60 (64-70-74) sts. Cut the yarn.

EDGE IN GARTER ST:
Beg from RS on the side on right leg (i.e. 25-27-30 (32-35-37) sts after inside of leg). Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm, work in GARTER ST back and forth – see explanation above and cast on 6 new sts at the end of first row from WS = 56-60-66 (70-76-80) sts on needle. When edge in garter st measures 1 cm, dec for 1 buttonhole at beg of row (seen from RS, i.e. where new sts were cast on) as follows: K tog third and fourth from edge and make 1 YO. When edge in garter st measures 2 cm, loosely cast off.

Work the other leg the same way but reversed.
Pants measures approx. 28-33-37 (42-48-55) cm from waist and down (measured mid front).
Sew 1 button on edge in garter st at the bottom of each leg - place button to desired leg width.

TIES:
Cut 3 lengths Baby Merino yarn of approx. 3 metres each. Twine the strands tog until they resist, fold the string double so that it twines again. Make a knot at each end. Beg mid front and thread tie up and down through eyelet row on rib in waist of pants.

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SOCK:

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec as follows before marker: Beg 2 sts before marker and K 2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

HEEL DECREASE:
Row 1 (= from RS): Work until 6-6-6 (6-6-6) sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K 1, psso, turn piece.
Row 2 (= from WS): Work until 6-6-6 (6-6-6) sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P 1, psso, turn piece.
Row 3: Work until 5-5-5 (5-5-5) sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K 1, psso, turn piece.
Row 4: Work until 5-5-5 (5-5-5) sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P 1, psso, turn piece.
Continue dec like this with 1 st less before every dec until 8-10-10 (12-12-12) sts remain on needle.
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SOCK:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 40-48-48 (56-56-56) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with red and work rib K 2/P 2 for 2-2-2 (3-3-3) cm. Insert 1 marker at beg of round (= mid back). Then continue pattern in the round according to diagram A.1. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 3-3-4 (5-6-8) cm, dec 2 sts mid back - SEE DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every 3-2-2 (1½-1½-1½) cm 2-4-4 (5-5-5) times in total = 36-40-40 (46-46-46) sts – NOTE: When dec mid back, the pattern will not fit mid back, but make sure that pattern fits around the sock. Work until piece measures approx. 9-10-12 (13-16-19) cm, adjust after a whole border in pattern. Now keep the middle 18-20-20 (22-22-22) sts mid back on needle for heel and slip the middle 18-20-20 (24-24-24) sts on 1 stitch holder (= mid on top of foot). Work in stocking st back and forth over heel sts with red for 3-3½-4 (4½-5-5) cm. Insert 1 marker in middle of piece. Then work HEEL DECREASE - see explanation above! Then pick up 8-9-10 (12-13-13) sts on each side of heel and slip sts from stitch holder back on needle = 42-48-50 (60-62-62) sts on needle. Continue in the round with stocking st and A.1 as before - NOTE: Repeat A.1 vertically until toe dec. Pattern will not fit in repetition mid under foot and in the sides where the dec below is done as explained below but make sure that the pattern fits around the sock.
AT THE SAME TIME dec on each side of the 18-20-20 (24-24-24) sts on top of foot as follows: K the last 2 sts before the 18-20-20 (24-24-24) sts tog and K the first 2 sts after the same sts twisted tog. Dec every other round 3-5-5 (10-10-10) times in total = 36-38-40 (40-42-42) sts.
Continue to work until piece measures approx. 8-9-9½ (10½-11-13) cm from marker on heel (approx. 2-2-2½ (2½-4-4) cm remain until finished measurements). Insert 1 marker in each side so that there are 18-19-20 (20-21-21) sts on both upper foot and under foot. Switch to red and work in stocking st in the round AT THE SAME TIME dec for toes on each side of both markers - SEE DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec every other round 0-0-0 (0-5-5) times and then every round 7-7-8 (8-3-3) times in total = 8-10-8 (8-10-10) sts remain on needle. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten. Sock measures approx. 10-11-12 (13-15-17) cm.
Knit another sock.

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HAT:

PATTERN: See diagram A.2.
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HAT:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 96-104-104 (112-120-120) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with off white. Work rib = K 2/P 2 for 3-4-4 (5-5-5) cm. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm and K 1 round with red while AT THE SAME TIME dec 8 sts evenly = 88-96-96 (104-112-112) sts. Then work according to diagram A.2. On every round with star dec 12 sts evenly (dec 5 times in total). Work until A.2 has been worked a time vertically - see arrow for your size = 28-36-36 (44-52-52) sts. K all sts tog 2 by 2 = 14-18-18 (22-26-26) sts. Pull a double yarn through the remaining sts and fasten tightly. Hat measures approx. 16-17-18 (19-20-20) cm.

POMPOM:
Make a pompom with an approx. diameter of 3 cm in off white. Fasten pompom at the top in the tip of hat.

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BOW:

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.
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BOW:
Cast on 10-12 (14-16) sts on needle size 2.5 mm with Fabel. Work ridges in GARTER ST – see explanation above – back and forth until piece measures 7-8 (9-10) cm, cast off.

MIDDLE BAND:
Cast on 12-12 (14-14) sts on needle size 2.5 mm and work 4-4 (5-5) ridges. Cast off. Sew the short ends tog to form a ring.

Pull the bow through the ring and fasten the two parts tog with a couple of stitches. Fasten a ribbon or an elastic through the ring on the back of the bow.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 28.08.2018
Correction: The measurements for the pants has been corrected from knee pants to short pants

Diagram

symbols = red
symbols = silver fox
symbols = sunset
symbols = off white
diagram
diagram
diagram
© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (21)

country flag Bianca Raehse wrote:

Einen schönen guten Tag! Ist es richtig, dass die Blende an der Weste immer links gestrickt wird, so dass quasi kraus links dabei rauskommt? Bzw. Letztlich ja kraus rechts, nur um eine Reihe versetzt. Oder muss ich sie in der Rückrunde rechts stricken, so dass die Blende glatt links wird? Freundliche Grüße! Bianca Raehse

26.06.2017 - 18:09

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Raehse, die Blendemaschen sind kraus links gestrickt, dh in jeder R links gestrickt. Die andere Maschen sind kraus rechts gestrickt (= in jeder R rechts gestrickt), so gibt es einen kleinen Unterschied zwischen die Krausrippe der Jacke und die der Blende. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

27.06.2017 - 08:47

country flag Lina Lysvoll wrote:

Hei. Jeg trenger hjelp for å få total garn magde og hvor jeg kan bestille garnet på nettet.

11.10.2016 - 22:56

country flag JL wrote:

Donc c est du point mousse!Merciiiiii bcp et bne soirée et bnap!!:-*!

17.05.2016 - 19:46

country flag JL wrote:

Excusez moi encore jai fais une faute de frappe c est 5 côtes mousse et pas 45 lol!:-*!!!!à bientot!!!

16.05.2016 - 11:11

country flag JL wrote:

Bonjour je suis entrain de tricoter le noeud papillon et je me demander se que sa vouler dire exacrement fare 14 m et tricoter 45 côtés mousses est se du pt mousse et faire 4 rgs??c bien sa???excusez moi pour cette question qui peut vous paraître bete!!à bientot et merciii pr votre aide et bn lundi!!:-*! JL!!!

16.05.2016 - 11:07

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour JL, 1 côte mousse = 2 rangs endroit, pour le noeud papillon (bande centrale), on tricote 4 côtes mousse, soit 8 rangs endroit. Bon tricot!

17.05.2016 - 11:53

country flag Stine wrote:

Hej, Vil jeg kunne lave det her sæt i drops cotton viscose, og kunne det så egne sig til sommerbrug?

29.04.2016 - 13:53

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Stine Ja du kan strikke det i DROPS Safran ren bomuld eller DROPS Cotton Viscose som jo er blank, men begge tilhører garngruppe A som Baby Merino. God fornøjelse!

02.05.2016 - 09:21

country flag Susanna K Burger wrote:

Hello. Do you know the total yardage needed to make both the pants and vest out of the Baby Merino, and the total yardage needed to make both the socks and hat out of the Fabel? Thank you, Susanna

01.03.2016 - 14:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Burger, we have only total amount for each piece, you can add both pieces you may probably need a bit less - you will find yardage to each quality under each own shadcard - see Baby Merino and Fabel. Happy knitting!

02.03.2016 - 08:42

country flag Petra wrote:

Thanks, that's great and very helpful. Have a nice day

19.01.2016 - 20:11

Petra wrote:

I'm a beginner, bought baby merino wool and want to make this cap. Could you please tell me what's the best way how to dec sts evenly: "THE SAME TIME dec 8 sts evenly = 88-96-96"? Knit every 11th and 12th together when I have 88 sts? Thanks.

19.01.2016 - 10:04

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Petra, please click here to learn how to dec sts evenly. Happy knitting!

19.01.2016 - 16:41

country flag Petra wrote:

Dobry den, jsem zacatecnik a budu plest cepicku z vasi baby merino - chci se zeptat, co presne znamena: SOUČASNĚ ujmeme rovnoměrně 8 ok = 112 ok. Mam vzdy nejaka oka splest hladce, nebo se k tomuto ujimani pouziva nejaky specialni typ ujimani? Dekuji za odpoved. Petra

01.01.2016 - 09:28

DROPS Design answered:

Dobrý den, Petro, máte pravdu, že lze ujímat různými způsoby - u této čepičky stačí splétat 2 oka hladce. Jakmile tedy změníte přízi na červenou a pletete touto barvou 1. kruhovou řadu, ujmete v této kruhové řadě požadovaných 8 ok = podle počátečního počtu ok např. u nejmenší velikosti splétáte každé 11. a 12. oko (96:8=12). Podrobný návod na výpočet najdete také v sekci Tipy a rady - Lekce, viz: Jak rovnoměrně přidávat/ujímat Hodně zdaru! Hana

19.01.2016 - 16:47

Goofy Gavin



Set of knitted vest with pockets and v-neck and short pants in stocking st in DROPS BabyMerino, plus knitted hat and socks with Nordic pattern and bow in garter st in DROPS Fabel. For baby and children in size 1 month - 6 years.

DROPS Children 26-15
DROPS design: Pattern no bm-004-bn
Yarn group A
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VEST:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4 - 5/6 years)
Size in cm: 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 - 92 - 98/104 - 110/116
Materials:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
100-100-150 (150-150-150) g colour no 19, grey

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 or 60 cm) SIZE 3 mm - or size needed to get 24 sts x 48 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS BUTTON: ARCHED (white), NO 521: 4 pieces in all sizes

SHORT PANTS:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4 - 5/6 years)
Size in cm: 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 - 92 - 98/104 - 110/116
Materials:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
100-150-150-(150-200-200) g colour no 19, grey

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 or 60 cm) SIZE 3 mm - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 or 60 cm) SIZE 2.5 mm - for edges.
DROPS BUTTON: ARCHED (white), NO 521: 2 pieces in all sizes

SOCKS:
Size: 15/17 - 18/19 - 20/21 (22/23 - 24/25 - 26/28)
To fit foot length: 10-11-12 (13-15-17) cm
Materials:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
50 g for all sizes of the following colours:
colour no 100, off white
colour no 106, red
colour no 310, sunset
colour no 602, silver fox

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm - or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in pattern = 10 x 10 cm.

HAT:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4 - 5/6) years
Head circumference:
approx. 40/42 - 42/44 - 44/46 (48/50 - 50/52 – 52/53) cm
Materials:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
50 g for all sizes in colour no 100, off white
50 g for all sizes in colour no 106, red
50 g for all sizes in colour no 310, sunset
50 g for all sizes in colour no 602, silver fox.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm – for rib

BOW:
Size: 6/12 months - 12/24 months (2/4 years - 6/8 years).
Materials:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
50 g colour no 106, red (bow weighs approx. 2-4 g).

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm - or size needed to get 26 sts x 51 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.
ACCESSORY: Silk ribbon or elastic for fastening the bow.

VEST:

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on left band. 1 buttonhole = work until 4 sts remain on needle (seen from RS), make 1 YO, P 2 tog and P the last 2 sts.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE 1/3 MONTHS: 2, 7, 12 and 17 cm.
SIZE 6/9 MONTHS: 2, 7, 12 and 18 cm.
SIZE 12/18 MONTHS: 2, 8, 13 and 19 cm.
SIZE 2 YEARS: 2, 8, 14 and 20 cm.
SIZE 3/4 YEARS: 2, 9, 16 and 22 cm.
SIZE 5/6 YEARS: 2, 9, 16 and 24 cm.

DECREASE TIP (applies to armholes and V-neck):
Dec 1 st for armhole and V-neck on inside of 4 edge sts in garter st. All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows after 4 edge sts in garter st: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec as follows before 4 edge sts in garter st: Beg 2 sts before the 4 edge sts and K 2 tog.

KNITTING TIP:
Because of ridges in garter st and weight of yarn the piece can become somewhat longer when worn. To avoid the armhole from becoming too long you can crochet an edge around the armhole at the end.
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VEST:
Work piece in 3 parts, bottom up, up to after vent, then work body back and forth from mid front before dividing piece at the armhole and finish each part separately.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 30-33-35 (38-40-42) sts (incl 4 band sts towards mid front) on circular needle size 3 mm with Baby Merino. Work in GARTER ST back and forth on needle - see explanation above but P the 4 edge sts towards mid front on every row (= band). When piece measures 4-4-4 (6-6-6) cm – adjust so that last row is from WS, put piece aside.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as right front piece but reversed. In addition dec for BUTTON HOLES on band - see explanation above! When left front piece is the same length as right front piece - adjust so that last row is from WS, put piece aside.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 52-58-62 (68-72-76) sts on circular needle size 3 mm with Baby Merino. Work in garter st back and forth until back piece is the same length as both front pieces - adjust so that last row is from WS.

BODY:
Beg from RS and work sts from right front piece (remember to P band sts on every row until finished measurements), work sts from back piece and then sts from left front piece (remember to P band sts on every row until finished measurements) = 112-124-132 (144-152-160) sts on needle. Continue to work in garter st back and forth and P bands on every row. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION and remember to dec for BUTTONHOLES on left band. When piece measures 17-18-19 (20-22-24) cm, work next row from RS as follows: Work 27-30-32 (35-37-39) sts as before (= right front piece), cast off 6 sts for armhole, work 46-52-56 (62-66-70) sts as before (= back piece), cast off 6 sts for armhole and work the remaining 27-30-32 (35-37-39) sts as before (= left front piece). Finish each part separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 46-52-56 (62-66-70) sts. Continue to work in garter st back and forth on needle. AT THE SAME TIME on first row from RS, dec 1 st in each side for armholes - Read DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec in each side every 4th row (i.e. every other row from RS) 4 times in total = 38-44-48 (54-58-62) sts. Continue in garter st. When piece measures 23-25-27 (29-32-35) cm, cast off the middle 16-16-18 (20-20-20) sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. On next row from RS dec 1 st for neck - READ DECREASE TIP. K 1 row from WS and repeat dec on next row from neck = 9-12-13 (15-17-19) sts remain on shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 25-27-29 (31-34-37) cm. Repeat on the other shoulder.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 27-30-32 (35-37-39) sts. Continue back and forth as before while AT THE SAME TIME cast off for armhole in the side as on back piece. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 18-19-20 (21-23-25) cm, dec 1 st for V-neck towards mid front - READ DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every other row 14 times in all sizes and then every 4th row 0-0-1 (2-2-2) times in total. After all dec for armhole and V-neck, 9-12-13 (15-17-19) sts remain on needle. Continue until piece measures 25-27-29 (31-34-37) cm and cast off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 27-30-32 (35-37-39) sts. Work as right front piece but reversed - NOTE: Beg dec for V-neck approx. 1 cm after last buttonhole on band.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew on buttons (buttons on photo are sewn on with WS outwards).

POCKET:
Cast on 14-14-20 (20-24-24) sts on needle size 3 mm with Baby Merino. Continue in garter st until pocket measures 7-7-9 (9-12-12) cm, loosely cast off.
Knit another pocket. Fold the upper 1-2 cm on each pocket out towards RS and fasten edge in each side on pocket. Sew 1 pocket on each front piece with grafting/kitchener stitches (place pockets approx. 4-6 cm from mid front and approx. 3-6 cm from the bottom edge).

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SHORT PANTS:

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. On next round K YO twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP:
Beg 2 sts before marker and work as follows: K 2 tog, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
----------------------------------------------------------

SHORT PANTS:
Worked in the round from the waist down.
Cast on 104-112-128 (136-144-152) sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm with Baby Merino - beg of round = mid back. Work rib as follows: K 1, * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* until 3 sts remain and finish with P 2 and K 1. When rib measures 2 cm, work an eyelet row as follows: K 1, * P 2 tog, 1 YO, K 2 *, repeat from *-* until 3 sts remain, finish with P 2 tog, 1 YO and K 1. Continue to work until rib measures 3-3-3 (4-4-4) cm. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm and K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME inc 20-22-16 (18-20-20) sts evenly = 124-134-144 (154-164-172) sts.
ELEVATION AT THE BACK: Now work the pants higher at the back. Work in stocking st back and forth as follows: Beg mid back and K 6-6-7 (7-8-8), turn piece (to avoid holes, slip 1st st on return and tighten yarn). P 12-12-14 (14-16-16), turn piece. K 18-18-21 (21-24-24), turn piece. P 24-24-28 (28-32-32), turn piece. Continue like this by working 6-6-7 (7-8-8) sts more on every turn 6 more times (= 10 short rows in total). Then continue in stocking st in the round over all sts.
INCREASES: When piece measures 10-13-14 (15-16-18) cm from the waist (measured mid front), insert 1 marker at the beg of round and 1 marker after 62-67-72 (77-82-86) sts (marks mid front and mid back of pants). Then inc 1 st on each side of all these markers – READ INCREASE TIP (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc on every 3rd round a total of 5 times = 144-154-164 (174-184-192) sts. After last inc piece measures approx. 14-17-18 (19-20-22) cm from the waist (measures mid front).

LEG:
Beg mid back, work the first 72-77-82 (87-92-96) sts and slip the other sts on 1 stitch holder. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm and work in stocking st in the round. Insert 1 marker at beg of round = inside of leg. When 1 cm has been worked from where piece was divided, dec 1 st on each side of marker – SEE DECREASE TIP (= 2 sts dec). Repeat dec every 5th.-6th.-8th. (9th.-11th.-13th.) round 7 times in total in all sizes = 58-63-68 (73-78-82) sts.
When leg measures 12-14-17 (20-25-30) cm (last dec should be done), K 1 round while dec 8-9-8 (9-8-8) sts evenly = 50-54-60 (64-70-74) sts. Cut the yarn.

EDGE IN GARTER ST:
Beg from RS on the side on right leg (i.e. 25-27-30 (32-35-37) sts after inside of leg). Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm, work in GARTER ST back and forth – see explanation above and cast on 6 new sts at the end of first row from WS = 56-60-66 (70-76-80) sts on needle. When edge in garter st measures 1 cm, dec for 1 buttonhole at beg of row (seen from RS, i.e. where new sts were cast on) as follows: K tog third and fourth from edge and make 1 YO. When edge in garter st measures 2 cm, loosely cast off.

Work the other leg the same way but reversed.
Pants measures approx. 28-33-37 (42-48-55) cm from waist and down (measured mid front).
Sew 1 button on edge in garter st at the bottom of each leg - place button to desired leg width.

TIES:
Cut 3 lengths Baby Merino yarn of approx. 3 metres each. Twine the strands tog until they resist, fold the string double so that it twines again. Make a knot at each end. Beg mid front and thread tie up and down through eyelet row on rib in waist of pants.

----------------------------------------------------------
SOCK:

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec as follows before marker: Beg 2 sts before marker and K 2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

HEEL DECREASE:
Row 1 (= from RS): Work until 6-6-6 (6-6-6) sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K 1, psso, turn piece.
Row 2 (= from WS): Work until 6-6-6 (6-6-6) sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P 1, psso, turn piece.
Row 3: Work until 5-5-5 (5-5-5) sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K 1, psso, turn piece.
Row 4: Work until 5-5-5 (5-5-5) sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P 1, psso, turn piece.
Continue dec like this with 1 st less before every dec until 8-10-10 (12-12-12) sts remain on needle.
----------------------------------------------------------

SOCK:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 40-48-48 (56-56-56) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with red and work rib K 2/P 2 for 2-2-2 (3-3-3) cm. Insert 1 marker at beg of round (= mid back). Then continue pattern in the round according to diagram A.1. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 3-3-4 (5-6-8) cm, dec 2 sts mid back - SEE DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every 3-2-2 (1½-1½-1½) cm 2-4-4 (5-5-5) times in total = 36-40-40 (46-46-46) sts – NOTE: When dec mid back, the pattern will not fit mid back, but make sure that pattern fits around the sock. Work until piece measures approx. 9-10-12 (13-16-19) cm, adjust after a whole border in pattern. Now keep the middle 18-20-20 (22-22-22) sts mid back on needle for heel and slip the middle 18-20-20 (24-24-24) sts on 1 stitch holder (= mid on top of foot). Work in stocking st back and forth over heel sts with red for 3-3½-4 (4½-5-5) cm. Insert 1 marker in middle of piece. Then work HEEL DECREASE - see explanation above! Then pick up 8-9-10 (12-13-13) sts on each side of heel and slip sts from stitch holder back on needle = 42-48-50 (60-62-62) sts on needle. Continue in the round with stocking st and A.1 as before - NOTE: Repeat A.1 vertically until toe dec. Pattern will not fit in repetition mid under foot and in the sides where the dec below is done as explained below but make sure that the pattern fits around the sock.
AT THE SAME TIME dec on each side of the 18-20-20 (24-24-24) sts on top of foot as follows: K the last 2 sts before the 18-20-20 (24-24-24) sts tog and K the first 2 sts after the same sts twisted tog. Dec every other round 3-5-5 (10-10-10) times in total = 36-38-40 (40-42-42) sts.
Continue to work until piece measures approx. 8-9-9½ (10½-11-13) cm from marker on heel (approx. 2-2-2½ (2½-4-4) cm remain until finished measurements). Insert 1 marker in each side so that there are 18-19-20 (20-21-21) sts on both upper foot and under foot. Switch to red and work in stocking st in the round AT THE SAME TIME dec for toes on each side of both markers - SEE DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec every other round 0-0-0 (0-5-5) times and then every round 7-7-8 (8-3-3) times in total = 8-10-8 (8-10-10) sts remain on needle. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten. Sock measures approx. 10-11-12 (13-15-17) cm.
Knit another sock.

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HAT:

PATTERN: See diagram A.2.
----------------------------------------------------------

HAT:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 96-104-104 (112-120-120) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with off white. Work rib = K 2/P 2 for 3-4-4 (5-5-5) cm. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm and K 1 round with red while AT THE SAME TIME dec 8 sts evenly = 88-96-96 (104-112-112) sts. Then work according to diagram A.2. On every round with star dec 12 sts evenly (dec 5 times in total). Work until A.2 has been worked a time vertically - see arrow for your size = 28-36-36 (44-52-52) sts. K all sts tog 2 by 2 = 14-18-18 (22-26-26) sts. Pull a double yarn through the remaining sts and fasten tightly. Hat measures approx. 16-17-18 (19-20-20) cm.

POMPOM:
Make a pompom with an approx. diameter of 3 cm in off white. Fasten pompom at the top in the tip of hat.

----------------------------------------------------------
BOW:

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.
----------------------------------------------------------

BOW:
Cast on 10-12 (14-16) sts on needle size 2.5 mm with Fabel. Work ridges in GARTER ST – see explanation above – back and forth until piece measures 7-8 (9-10) cm, cast off.

MIDDLE BAND:
Cast on 12-12 (14-14) sts on needle size 2.5 mm and work 4-4 (5-5) ridges. Cast off. Sew the short ends tog to form a ring.

Pull the bow through the ring and fasten the two parts tog with a couple of stitches. Fasten a ribbon or an elastic through the ring on the back of the bow.

Diagram explanations
symbol = red
symbol = silver fox
symbol = sunset
symbol = off white

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