DROPS / 162 / 21

Barcelona by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS jacket with lace pattern and fringes in ”Safran”. Size S-XXXL.

  • Barcelona / DROPS 162-21 - Crochet DROPS jacket with lace pattern and fringes in ”Safran”. Size S-XXXL.
  • Barcelona / DROPS 162-21 - Crochet DROPS jacket with lace pattern and fringes in ”Safran”. Size S-XXXL.
DROPS design: Pattern no e-233
Yarn group A
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Size: S/M - L/XL – XXL/XXXL

Materials:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
800-900-1000 g color no 17, white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3.5 mm/E/4 – or size needed to get 22 dc x 12 rows = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm). 1 crochet square measures approx. 22 x 22 cm / 8 3/4" x 8 3/4".

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Cotton
from 2.35 $ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 2.35 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 37.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagram A.1.

CROCHET INFO:
Replace first sc at beg of every sc round with 1 ch. Finish every round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round.
Replace first dc at beg of every dc round with 3 ch. Finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round.

FRINGES:
1 FRINGE = Cut 2 lengths of 40 cm / 15 3/4'' each. Fold them double and pull loop through ch-space. Then pull yarn ends through the loop. Cut fringes to a length of approx. 19 cm / 7½".
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JACKET:
Work 34 crochet squares before sewing them tog for front and back piece. Then work mesh pattern in the different sizes.

CROCHET SQUARE:
Work a crochet square as follows - see diagram A.1:
Work 5 ch with Safran on hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 and form a ring with 1 sl st.
ROUND 1: Work 3 ch (= 1 dc), then work 2 dc in ch-ring, * ch 3, 3 dc in ch-ring *, repeat from *-* 6 more times, ch 3, 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round, 1 sl st in each of the next 3 sts (i.e. 1 sl st in the 2 next dc, 1 sl st in next ch).
ROUND 2: 3 ch (= 1 dc), 2 dc in ch-space, ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-space, * ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 4, 3 dc in ch-space, ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-space *, repeat from *-* (= A.1) 2 more times, ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 4, 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round, 1 sl st in each of the next 3 sts.
ROUND 3: 3 ch (= 1 dc), 2 dc in ch-space, ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-space, * ch 5, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 5, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 5, 3 dc in ch-space, ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-space *, repeat from *-* (= A.1) 2 more times, ch 5, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 5, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 5, 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round, 1 sl st in each of the next 3 sts. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
ROUND 4-9: Continue as shown in diagram. Repeat A.1 4 times in total on round but finish as shown in diagram. I.e. do not work last dc-group in corner in A.1 the 4th time A.1 is repeated. Finish every round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch on round and 1 sl st in the next 3 sts.
ROUND 10: Work ch 1, 2 sc in ch-space, ch 3, 2 sc in same ch-space, continue as shown in A.1. Finish with 1 sl st in first ch on round, 1 sl st in each of the next 2 sts.
ROUND 11: 8 ch (= 1 dc + 5 ch), 1 dc in ch-space, continue as shown in A.1. Finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch on round. Fasten off. Work another 33 squares the same way (= 34 squares).

ASSEMBLY:
Sew tog crochet squares as shown in chart. Make sure that to avoid a tight seam. You now have 1 back piece, 2 reversed front pieces and 2 loose squares for pockets.

POCKETS:
Work an edge around the square - READ CROCHET INFO: Beg with 1 sl st in corner on square and work (1 sc, ch 4, 1 sc) in ch-space. Continue as follows: * ch 1, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* until next corner and finish with 1 ch. Continue like this around the entire square and finish with 1 sl st in first st on round. Sew a pocket on to each front piece, placed on top of the seam between square 20 and 21 - see chart. Sew through both layers along both sides and bottom of square.

SHOULDER:
Beg with 1 sl st in ch-space in corner on 5th square - see chart.
S/M: Work ch 1, * ch 1, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* over 5th-1st square. NOTE: Work 1 sc in seam between squares. Finish with 1 ch and 1 sc in last ch-space on 1st square.
L/XL – XXL/XXXL:
ROW 1: Work 3 ch (= 1 dc), * ch 1, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* over 5th -1st square. NOTE: Work 1 dc in seam between squares. Finish with 1 ch and 1 dc in last ch-space on 1st square.
Turn and work like this back and forth until mesh pattern has been worked for 2-4 cm / 3/4"-1½".
ALL SIZES: Work shoulder the same way on both front pieces, i.e. over 17th-15th square.

Sew the shoulder seams. Sew the 2 outermost squares in each side on back piece tog with the 2 outermost squares on each front piece = 1 square for neck/overlap.

SIDES:
Beg with 1 sl st in ch-space in corner on 14th square - see chart.
S/M: Work ch 1, * ch 1, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* over 14th, 11th and 8th square and continue under sleeve (= 5th square).
L/XL – XXL/XXXL: Work ch 3, * ch 1, skip ch 1, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat over 14th, 11th and 8th square. Turn and work the same way back and forth until mesh pattern has been worked for 4-8 cm / 1 1/4"-3".
ALL SIZES: Work the same way in the other side, repeat in the side on each front piece.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew side seams and underarm seams. Work an edge around the bands and neck. Beg in corner (A). Work ch 1, * ch 1, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* along the band and up to corner (B), work 4 ch in corner (B) and continue around the neck. Work the same way along the other band. Fasten off. Insert FRINGES - see explanation above, in every other ch-space on WS between 19th and 17th square. Repeat on the other front piece.

EDGE AT THE BOTTOM:
Work an edge at the bottom, beg from RS. Beg with 1 sl st in ch-space in corner of front piece, work along back piece and at the end along the other front piece.
S/M: Work ch 1, * ch 1, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat along entire bottom edge.
L/XL – XXL/XXXL: Work ch 3, * ch 1, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* along the entire bottom edge, turn and work the same way back and forth for 2-4 cm / 3/4"-1½".

SLEEVE EDGE:
Work an edge around the sleeve edge. Beg with 1 sl st mid under sleeve and work as follows from RS:
S/M: ch 1, * ch 1, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat around the entire sleeve edge and finish with ch 1, 1 sl st in first ch at beg of round.
Repeat around the other sleeve edge.
L/XL - XXL/XXXL: ch 3, * ch 1, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat around the entire sleeve edge and finish with ch 1, 1 sl st in 3rd ch on round. Continue until edge measures 2-4 cm / 3/4"-1½". Repeat around the other sleeve edge.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = ch
symbols = sl st
symbols = dc around ch-space
symbols = dc in st
symbols = sc around ch-space
symbols = sc in st
symbols = beg here
symbols = beg here when working shoulder
symbols = beg here when working side
symbols = beg here when working bottom edge
symbols = beg here when working sleeve edge
diagram
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 162-21) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (44)

country flag Urriza Maria Lorena 08.09.2020 - 00:45:

Hola! Ya tengo tejidos todos los cuadrados pero no entiendo como se hace la parte del escote. No lo encuentro en el patron, por favor me podrian indicar?

user icon DROPS Design 09.09.2020 kl. 20:19:

Hola Urriza. La parte del escote esta explicada en el apartado ENSAMBLAJE (TERMINACIÓN), después del HOMBRO. Primero se unen todos los cuadrados formando la espalda y los delanteros, después se forma el escote/traslape.

country flag Britt 03.05.2020 - 14:18:

Patroon netjes gevolgd zonder problemen alleen de hoeveelheid wol die je moet aanschaffen klopt niet als je de afwerking nog wilt doen. Dan mis je toch zeker nog 1 bol voor maat S/M. Ben ervaren haakster.

country flag GRETCHEN 02.06.2019 - 14:23:

Hello, This is a beautiful kimono, but it is very heavy in crochet. It would be wonderful to have a lighter, knitted version. The style is absolutely timeless! Thankyou Drops!

country flag Léana 27.05.2019 - 10:54:

Il y a des erreurs dans le rédactionnel explicatif des carrés. Il serait judicieux d'ajouter un schéma.... Merci

user icon DROPS Design 27.05.2019 kl. 13:08:

Bonjour Léana, après vérification, les explications du carré correspondent à la version originale ainsi qu'au diagramme, où avez-vous repéré des erreurs? Merci! Bon crochet!

country flag Anita 09.07.2018 - 09:44:

Könnten sie mir bitte weiterhelfen wie ich die Teile zusammen häckel oder Nähe in vor raus vielen dank

user icon DROPS Design 09.07.2018 kl. 12:59:

Liebe Anita, dieses Video zeigt, wie man die Quadraten zusammennäht. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

country flag Andrea 23.06.2018 - 01:26:

Para la vuelta 4-9, me dicen que debo terminar cada vuelta como me muestran en el diagrama pero no hacer el grupo de puntos altos de A.1. No entiendo muy bien a que se refieren con lo anterior Es decir debo terminar cada vuelta con 5cad, 1 p.b en arco de cad sig, 5 cad, 1 pb en arco de cad sig, 5 cad , 1 p.bjs en los 3 puntos siguientes?

user icon DROPS Design 23.06.2018 kl. 19:51:

Hola Andrea. Cuando tengas los 4 lados y las 4 esquinas trabajadas, para finalizar la vuelta trabajar como sigue: 1 punto enano en el 3º punto de cadeneta del inicio de la vuelta y después trabajar 3 puntos enanos en los tres puntos siguientes hasta llegar hasta la primera esquina del cuadrado.

country flag Charlotte Bækdahl 26.05.2018 - 11:47:

Unfortunately, I didn't get an answer to my question. I kept crocheting and finished the cardigan but the result is very poor. I'm an experienced crocheter but never got to make a square nice and flat. The result is flappy, bulky and messy. I guess, I can steam it and get a better result but it's a major job - that has to be done after every wash. I definately can't recommend spending time on this design.

user icon DROPS Design 29.05.2018 kl. 13:06:

Hej Charlotte, Hvilket garn hækler du jakken i, hækler du i DROPS Safran? Hvilken omgang er det som bølger? Der er mange som har hæklet denne jakke så opskriften skal stemme. Mange damper gerne det færdige arbejde så bliver det endnu mere jævnt og pænt.

country flag Anita Heimpel 17.05.2018 - 16:09:

Ich komme ab der rund 4 nicht mehr weiter wird da weiter rundum gehäckelt ? und wir bei der strickanleitung von rehtsd nach links wenn das bild vor mir ist gehäckelt ich verzweifel gerade danke in vorraus

user icon DROPS Design 18.05.2018 kl. 08:50:

Liebe Frau Heimpel, bei der 4. Runde häkeln Sie so: Km bis 1. LmBogen, dann 3 Lm,2 Stb, 3 Lm, 3 Stb um den 1. Bogen, dann A.1 3 x wiederholen, bei dem letzten A.1 enden Sie mit 1 fm in den 3. Lm der Runde (und nicht mit 3 Stb,3 Lm, 3Stb um den nächsten 3-Lm-Bogen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

country flag Femy 16.05.2018 - 11:50:

Dank! Wat betekenen die vertikale stippellijntjes op vierkant 20 en 21?

user icon DROPS Design 16.05.2018 kl. 16:20:

Hoi Femy, Die stippellijnen geven aan waar de zakken komen.

country flag FEmy 14.05.2018 - 17:54:

Ik kan niet helemaal zien waar ik de franjes aan moet maken. Aan de voorkant alleen boven?

user icon DROPS Design 14.05.2018 kl. 18:45:

Hallo FEmy, De franjes maak je tussen het 19e en 17e vierkant, aan bij het voorpand. Er staat om en om in de helft van de lossenlussen, maar tot hoever naar boven en beneden je de franjes plaatst kan je natuurlijk naar eigen inzicht doen.

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