Shy Violet by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS top with fan pattern, worked top down in ”Safran”. Size S- XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern no e-229
Yarn group A
Size: S/M – L/XL – XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 84-106-128-148 cm / 33"-41 3/4"-50½"-58"
Full length: 48-52-56-58 cm / 19"-20½"-22"-22 3/4"

DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
250-350-350-400 g color no 53, light purple

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3.5 mm/E/4 – or size needed to get 2 repetitions of A.3 = approx. width 10.5 cm / 4 1/4''.


Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


100% Cotton
from 2.35 $ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 2.35 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.75$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
See diagrams A.1 to A.7. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

The piece is worked top down.

Right shoulder:
Work 69-92-114-137 ch (includes 3 ch to turn with) on hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 with Safran.
ROW 1 (= WS): Work 1 dc in 4th ch from hook (= 2 dc), 1 dc in each of the next 5-3-5-3 ch, * skip ch 1, work 1 dc in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 55-73-91-109 dc. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
Now work according to diagram, i.e. work as follows:
ROW 1-6: (1st row = RS): Work A.1, A.2, A.3 2-3-4-5 times in total, A.4, A.5. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
ROW 7 (= RS): Work last row in A.1-A.4 as before but finish with A.6 over A.5.
Continue until A.6 has been worked 1 time vertically, in A.1-A.4 repeat rows in A.x. Cut the yarn.

Work left shoulder as right shoulder, work A.7 over A.1. On last row in A.7 (= from WS) work 35 ch for neck at the end of row, fasten with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of last row on right shoulder. Cut the yarn.
Now work over all sts, beg from RS as follows: A.1, A.2, A.3 9-10-11-12 times in total, A.4, finish with A.5. Continue like this. When piece measures approx. 24-26-28-30 cm / 9½"-10 1/4"-11"-11 3/4" – adjust after 7th row, sleeves are done.
Then work as follows, beg from WS: Skip 3 ch-space, beg by working in next sc as follows: A.5, A.4, A.3 7-8-9-10 times in total, A.2, finish with A.1 (do not work the last 3 ch-spaces). Continue like this until piece measures approx. 48-52-56-58 cm / 19"-20½"-22"-22 3/4", adjust after 5th row in diagram. Fasten off.

Work left shoulder in ch-row from cast on edge (work in same ch as dc's, i.e. in the 55-73-91-109 dc) from left front piece as follows:
ROW 1-6: (1st row = RS): Work A.1, A.2, A.3 2-3-4-5 times in total, A.4, A.5. Cut the yarn.
Work right shoulder as left shoulder but in right front piece - NOTE! Instead of cutting the yarn work 71 ch for neck and fasten with 1 sl st in first ch at beg of last row on left shoulder. Cut the yarn.
Now work over all sts the same way as on front piece.

Sew side and underarm seams in one.

Work an edge around the neck, beg from one shoulder as follows:
ROUND 1: Work * 1 sc, 5 ch *, repeat from *-* along the neck with approx. 2 cm / 3/4'' between every sc, finish with 1 sl st in first sc.
ROUND 2: ch 3, 1 sc in next ch-space, * ch 5, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 3 ch and 1 sl st in first sc from beg of 1st round. Fasten off.
Work an edge at the bottom along front and back piece the same way, beg from the side. Work an edge around the sleeve the same way, beg from mid under sleeve.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 26.05.2015
New chart A.7 (was missing 1 dc around st and 1 sc in st).
Updated online: 14.11.2016
New chart A.7


All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = 1 ch
symbols = 1 sc around st
symbols = 1 sc in st
symbols = 1 dc in st
symbols = 1 dc around st
symbols = row is explained in pattern (1 ch
counts as 1 dc when it applies to
shoulders, ch-row applies to
symbols = beg on diagram here
symbols = shows first row of A.1-A.5

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 162-15) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (71)

country flag Maria wrote:

Buongiorno , sono arrivata a lavorare il diagramma A6 su A5, ma non riesco a capire in che modo lavorarlo? Dove devo girare il lavoro? Si gira solo dove c’è il lato obliquo del diagramma? Perché nel diagramma A1-A5 a fine riga giravo il lavoro e continuavo……invece come devo comportarmi con il diagramma A6? Grazie mille

13.04.2022 - 15:35

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Maria, può seguire la freccia per l'inizio del diagramma A.6. Buon lavoro!

01.05.2022 kl. 23:36

country flag Hanne Gro Høie Vatne wrote:

Hei, denne må jeg dessverre gi oppe etter tallige forsøk , video stdert og hjelp av andre, KOmmer ikke videre enn start på skulderen og ikke diagram

18.07.2021 - 21:27

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Hanne, Det er vi kede af at høre. Et tips er at prøve at hækle selve diagrammet A.1 til A.5 som en prøve, ofte bliver det lettere at forstå når man først har forstået mønsteret. Held og lykke!

04.08.2021 kl. 11:52

country flag Donatella wrote:

Buongiorno Mi piace molto questo modello ma proprio non riesco a capire la costruzione delle maniche. Non capisco da che riga iniziare A7, cosa vuol dire lavorare in verticale... Sarebbe utile un video sulle maniche!

18.01.2021 - 18:44

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Donatella, il diagramma A.7 parte dalla 1° riga. Per lavorare in verticale si intende lavorare il diagramma verso l'alto. Buon lavoro!

18.01.2021 kl. 19:21

country flag Lee Dudley wrote:

Is there any chance of a step-by-step written pattern or even a step-by-step video tutorial? I don’t want to make a start on this pattern only to be stumped half way through. Diagrams are fine but they don’t readily show enough for people like me who are not yet experts and just trying to improve by tackling patterns of increasing difficulty. If you put up step-by-step videos, you’ll sell more yarn as consumers have more confidence that they can complete your projects.

28.09.2020 - 06:52

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Dudley, have you seen this video? This should help you to work the shoulder - then you just have to follow written pattern and diagrams - you are welcome to ask your questions here or to contact the store where you bought the yarn for any individual assistance. Happy knitting!

28.09.2020 kl. 10:54

country flag Sharon wrote:

“When piece measures approx. 24-26-28-30 cm / 9½"-10 1/4"-11"-11 3/4" – adjust after 7th row, sleeves are done. “. I’m new to crochet, my question is how/what do you adjust if the measurements aren’t correct? The same applies later when it says “adjust after 5th row in diagram”. Thanks

28.06.2020 - 15:12

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sharon, if your tension in height is not exactly the right one, the most important is to finish after a row 7 in diagram (or later a row 5) so that the next row can be worked as explained - you might have then to work some cm fewer or less depending on your tension in height. Happy crocheting!

29.06.2020 kl. 08:28

country flag Lavenac Nathalie wrote:

Bonjour. Juste un petit commentaire pour vous remercier pour votre aide et vos conseils. J’ai terminé le devant et viens de commencer le dos. Cordialement.

08.06.2020 - 18:40

country flag Jeanette wrote:

När man virkat ihop höger och vänster Axel står det att det ska vara 48 cm innan man börjar virka i uppläggningskanten. På filmen är det inte det. Det ser ut att vara 24 cm om man räknar varven. Har jag missuppfattat något?

02.06.2020 - 17:44

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Jeanette, vi virkar alla delar av tröjan. Men vi virkar inte hela tröjan, det som upprepas måske du följa enligt mönstret. Lycka till :)

05.06.2020 kl. 14:57

country flag Hupsis wrote:

Mielestäni takakappaleen kaula-aukon lisäyssilmukkamäärä 71 on väärin. Siinä tulee 1 viuhkakuvio liikaa kokonaismäärään ja vrt etukappaleeseen + viuhkakuviot eivät täsmää edellisten kanssa. Itse vähensin siitä 1 viuhkakuvion (3 ktjs lenkkiä) ja tein siihen väliin 57 ktjs ja sain sillä kuviot täsmäämään. Muuten hyvä ja selkeä ohje.

25.05.2020 - 09:00

country flag Belen Espejo wrote:

Buenos dias, tengo un par de preguntas. Los 24 cm que tiene que medir el delantero para finalizar la manga son desde el hombro o desde el escote? La segunda es como saltar tres arcos al inicio de una fila una vez acabadas las mangas. Hay que cortar el hilo? Muchas gracias. Belen.

21.09.2019 - 21:10

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Belen. La medida para la manga es desde el borde de montaje ( es decir desde el hombro). Para saltar tres arcos es mejor que cortes el hilo y continues la labor en el siguiente punto bajo según el patrón.

17.10.2019 kl. 19:57

country flag Belen Espejo wrote:

Los grupos de puntos altos me quedan una vuelta del derecho y otra del revés, que estoy haciendo mal? Muchas gracias. Belen.

12.09.2019 - 18:28

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Belen. Sin ver la labor no se puede saber donde está el fallo. Puedes contactar con la tienda Drops más cercana para obtener ayuda más personalizada.

17.11.2019 kl. 19:53

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