DROPS / 160 / 16

Summer Chic by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS sweater with lace pattern, raglan and buttons on the back in ”Muskat” or "Belle". Can be turned and used as jacket. Size: S - XXXL.

  • Summer Chic / DROPS 160-16 - Knitted DROPS sweater with lace pattern, raglan and buttons on the back in ”Muskat” or Belle. Can be turned and used as jacket. Size: S - XXXL.
  • Summer Chic / DROPS 160-16 - Knitted DROPS sweater with lace pattern, raglan and buttons on the back in ”Muskat” or Belle. Can be turned and used as jacket. Size: S - XXXL.
  • Summer Chic / DROPS 160-16 - Knitted DROPS sweater with lace pattern, raglan and buttons on the back in ”Muskat” or Belle. Can be turned and used as jacket. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS design: Pattern no r-677
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
350-400-450-450-500-550 g colour no 06, light pink

Or use:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio
300-350-400-400-450-500 g colour no 11, old pink

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 3.5 mm - for garter st.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON: Arched (white), NO 521: 6-6-6-6-6-6 pieces

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Cotton
from 1.05 £ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 1.05 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.35£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

GARTER ST (worked in the round):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in pattern seen from RS.

RAGLAN:
Dec 2 sts in every transition between body and sleeves.
Dec as follows from RS:
Beg 3 sts before marker and work as follows: K 2 tog, K 2 (marker is between these 2 sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec as follows from WS:
Beg 3 sts before marker and work as follows: P 2 twisted tog, P 2 (marker is between these 2 sts), P 2 tog.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on first band from RS. 1 buttonhole = K tog 3rd and 4th st from mid back, then make 1 YO. Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 6, 13, 20, 27, 34 and 42 cm.
SIZE M: 6, 13, 20, 28, 36 and 44 cm.
SIZE L: 6, 14, 22, 30, 38 and 46 cm.
SIZE XL: 6, 14, 22, 30, 39 and 48 cm.
SIZE XXL: 6, 14, 23, 32, 41 and 50 cm.
SIZE XXXL: 9.18, 27, 36, 45 and 52 cm
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SWEATER:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid back.
Cast on 197-213-229-253-277-301 sts (incl 5 band sts in each side towards mid back) on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Muskat or Belle. Work 3 ridges in garter st - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and work as follows - from RS: 5 sts in garter st (= band), A.1 A (= 2 sts), A.1 C (= 15 sts), stocking st over the next 44-44-52-56-60-64 sts , A.1 A ( = 2 sts), A.1B over the next 48-64-64-80-96-112 sts, A1.C (= 15 sts), stocking st over the next 44-44-52-56-60-64 sts, finish with A.1 A (= 2 sts), A.1 C ( = 15 sts) and 5 sts in garter st (= band). Continue pattern like this. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures 6 cm, insert 2 markers in the piece; 52-56-60-66-72-78 sts in from each side (= 93-101-109-121-133-145 sts between markers on front piece). Now dec 1 st on each side of both markers (= 4 sts dec). Repeat dec every 2 cm 3 more times = 181-197-213-237-261-285 sts. When piece measures 18 cm in all sizes, inc 1 st on each side of both markers in the sides (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc every 4-4-4-5-5-5 cm 3 more times = 197-213-229-253-277-301 sts. When piece measures 32-33-34-35-36-37 cm, cast off for armholes in each side as follows: Work until 4 sts remain before first marker in the side, cast off the next 8 sts, work until 4 sts remain before marker in the other side, cast off the next 8 sts and work the rest of row. There are now 85-93-101-113-125-137 sts on front piece and 48-52-56-62-68-74 sts on each back piece. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 74-78-82-86-90-94 sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm with Muskat or Belle. Work 3 ridges in garter st - see explanation above. Then K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME cast off 8 sts under sleeve = 66-70-74-78-82-86 sts remain on needle. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were cast off = 313-337-361-393-425-457 sts. Insert 1 marker in all transitions between sleeves and body (= 4 markers). Continue in stocking st and pattern as before, AT THE SAME TIME on next row from RS beg dec for RAGLAN – see explanation above (= 8 sts dec). Repeat dec on every other row a total of 20-21-22-22-23-24 times, and then on every row 3-4-5-7-8-9 times. After all dec for raglan 129-137-145-161-177-193 sts remain on needle. Work 2 ridges over all sts AT THE SAME TIME on first row dec 20-26-32-45-50-58 sts evenly = 109-111-113-116-127-135 sts. Cast off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves. Sew the buttons on to the right band.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
symbols = 1 YO
symbols = slip 2 sts as if to K, K 1, pass the 2 slipped sts over
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 160-16) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (25)

country flag Monique Chartrand 17.02.2021 - 22:53:

Hello again, For the following instruction for the sleeve, do you bind off 4 stitches on each side of the starting point marker? « Then K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME bind off 8 sts under sleeve = 66-70-74-78-82-86 sts remain on needle »

user icon DROPS Design 18.02.2021 kl. 07:32:

Hi Monique, You bind off the first 4 stitches (after the marker), work to the end of the round and then bind off the last 4 stitches (before the marker). From then on you work back and forth. Happy knitting!

country flag Monique Chartrand 29.01.2021 - 01:05:

For the sleeve, when the pattern says “ Then K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME bind off 8 sts under sleeve = 66-70-74-78-82-86 sts remain on needle” does binding off 8 sts under sleeve mean binding off the 8 middle stitches?

user icon DROPS Design 29.01.2021 kl. 08:11:

Dear Mrs Chartrand, correct, these are the 8 sts on middle under sleeve (= the last 4 sts + the first 4 sts on round). Happy knititng!

country flag Cho Cho Lwin 02.10.2020 - 06:01:

After bind-off in right sight, finished sweater back and front piece. Then how to attached the sleeve knitted in round? e.g sweater piece needs to be started with WS and sleeve stitches needs to work in right sight? I am a bit confused. Thank you for all your hard work and the technical support. All the best wishes.

user icon DROPS Design 02.10.2020 kl. 08:33:

Dear Mrs Lwin, this video shows how to place the sleeves on the same needle as the stitches on front and back pieces, over the cast off sts for armhole. You then just have to continue as explained (= sleeve sts in stocking st) decreasing for raglan. Happy knitting!

country flag Hend Alatrash 11.06.2020 - 08:11:

Hello , thank you for the nice pattern ... now i am in the decreasing for yoke part , and i come to a point where i have to decrease from the pattern stitches .. should i start the pattern after omitting the stitches decreased , or should i do pattern over stitches from sleeves? Thanks in advance .

user icon DROPS Design 11.06.2020 kl. 08:50:

Dear Mrs Alatrash, you can continue the lace pattern, but just make sure there are always the correct number of sts, ie in the lace pattern there should be 1 decrease for 1 yarn over, if you cannot make the yarn over, then don't work the decrease (and reversed) - work then these stitches in stocking stitch - and continue decreasing for raglan. Happy knitting!

country flag Grandet 20.04.2020 - 10:20:

Merci beaucoup ! C'est très gentil de votre part de me répondre si rapidement. Bonne journée à vous.

country flag Grandet 18.04.2020 - 21:41:

Bonjour, je commence le 3e rang du motif. Je tricote A1. A : une maille endroit (2 mailles à l'endroit ensemble du 1er rang) et après, sur le diagramme 2 mailles sont tricotées ensembles mais la 2e mailles de ces deux mailles appartient à B ? (et la 1ère du C appartient à B ?). J'espère que je me suis bien expliquée... Merci de votre aide très précieuse.

user icon DROPS Design 20.04.2020 kl. 10:11:

Bonjour Mme Grandet, les mailles des diagrammes vont se tricoter parfois en A/B parfois en B/C, autrement dit, au 2ème rang sur l'endroit vous tricotez A: 1 m end, 2 m ens à l'end (= 2 mailles), 1 jeté = 1ère maille de B, continuez jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 1 m dans B et tricotez cette maille + la 1ère m du B suivant/de C ensemble = dernière m de B, 1 jeté = 1ère maille du B suivant/de C. Vous pouvez mettre un marqueur entre chaque diagramme pour pouvoir bien vérifier votre nombre de mailles à chaque rang. Bon tricot!

country flag Danièle Couture 05.02.2020 - 18:38:

Bonjour! si je comprends bien,,,,,,,on doit lire le diagramme de gauche à droite?????\r\nMerci\r\nDanièle

user icon DROPS Design 06.02.2020 kl. 10:52:

Bonjour Mme Couture, les diagrammes se lisent de bas en haut en commençant en bas à droite, et on lit les rangs sur l'endroit de droite à gauche et ceux sur l'envers de gauche à droite - tout est bien détaillé ici. Bon tricot!

country flag Daniele 03.02.2020 - 16:37:

On débute le 1e gr par 5 pnts mousses., suive de A.1A (2M,ens) pour moi..ça va! Combien de jetées On fait à A.1.C ???

user icon DROPS Design 03.02.2020 kl. 16:42:

Bonjour Daniele, Au 1er rang, A.1 = 2 m ens à l'end, 1 jeté (= 2 m) et A.1C se tricote sur 15 m (= il commence par 2 m ens à l'end, 1 jeté, etc...) au 1er rang = on fait 7 jetés et on diminue 7 m. Bon tricot!

country flag Agnès 16.07.2019 - 11:19:

Merci ☺, je viens de réaliser après relecture de vos réponses, que j'oubliais que le début du motif correspondait au milieu du dos🙃 donc oui j'avais tout faux!😱 Encore merci de votre aide 😊

country flag Agnès 15.07.2019 - 19:03:

Merci de votre réponse et j'entend bien la symétrie voulue et donc justement ne faut il pas tricoter le motif sur 15 mailles avant celui sur 2 mailles et finir par les 5 mailles point mousse?

user icon DROPS Design 16.07.2019 kl. 08:51:

Bonjour Agnès, le diagramme A se tricote sur 2 mailles = début du motif, puis on tricote C = le motif. Ainsi, vous avez au début 4 diminutions de chaque côté de la m centrale (la m end de C) et au milieu du motif, vous aurez 2 m end avant et après le jeté. Bon tricot!

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