Baby Blues by DROPS Design

Crochet baby overall with raglan and stripes in DROPS Karisma. Size 0 - 4 years.

Keywords: long sleeves, overalls, raglan, round neck, stripes, top down

DROPS Baby 25-34
DROPS design: Pattern no u-055-by
Yarn group B
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Size: 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Finished measurements:
Bust: 48-52-56-64 (68-76) cm / 19”-20½”-22”-25¼” (26¾”-30”)
Full length: 45-53-62-70 (81-90) cm / 17¾”-21”-24½”-27½” (32”-35½”)

Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
150-200-200-200 (250-250) g color no 70, light blue gray
150-150-150-200 (200-200) g color no 01, off white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 mm/US 7 – or size needed to get 16 dc/sc in width x 6 texture rows vertically = 4’’ x 4’’ (10 x 10 cm).

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON NO 523: 4-5-5-6 (7-7) pieces.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
100% Wool

from 3.00 $ /50g

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	DROPS Karisma uni colour	3.00 $ /50g Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd	Order
	DROPS Karisma mix	3.00 $ /50g Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd	Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.

CROCHET INFO:
Replace first sc at beg of every sc row with ch 1, finish row with 1 sc in 3rd ch from beg of previous row.
Replace first dc at beg of every dc row with ch 3, finish row with 1 dc in ch from beg of previous row.

TEXTURE ROWS:
* 1 row sc (worked from WS), 1 row dc (worked from RS) *, repeat from *-* (1 row sc + 1 row dc = 1 texture row).

STRIPES:
Work entire suit in stripes as follows: * 1 row sc from WS with off white and then 1 row dc from RS with off white, 1 row sc from WS with light blue gray and then 1 row dc from RS with light blue gray *, repeat from *-*.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 sc/dc by working 2 sc/dc in same st.

DECREASE TIP:
Work 1 sc/dc but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), then work next sc/dc but on last pull through, pull yarn through all sts on hook = 1 sc/dc dec.
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SUIT:
Read US/UK above! The piece is worked top down. Worked back and forth from mid front.

YOKE:
Ch 37-41-45-45 (49-49) LOOSELY on hook size 4.5 mm/US 7 with light blue gray.
Work 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, then work 1 sc in every ch the entire row = 36-40-44-44 (48-48) sc.
Turn piece and work 1 row with sc back from WS while AT THE SAME TIME inc 8 sc evenly – READ INCREASE TIP = 44-48-52-52 (56-56) sc on row.
Now insert 4 markers in piece for raglan as follows (beg mid front – NOTE: Do NOT work while inserting markers):
Skip 6-7-8-8 (9-9) sc (= left front piece), insert 1 marker in next sc, skip 8 sc (= sleeve), insert 1 marker in next sc, skip 12-14-16-16 (18-18) sc (= back piece), insert 1 marker in next sc, skip 8 sc (= sleeve) and insert last marker in next sc (there are now 6-7-8-8 (9-9) sc on right front piece after last marker).

READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING:
Work next row as follows from RS:
Work 1 dc in every sc but in every sc with marker work 2 dc + 2 ch + 2 dc = 56-60-64-64 (68-68) dc on row.
Then work TEXTURE ROWS and STRIPES – see explanation above (work back and forth with 1 sc/dc in every st from previous row but on every row with sc from WS work 2 ch over the 2 ch from previous row in raglan lines).
AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row from RS (i.e. row with dc) inc for raglan as follows: Work 2 dc + 2 ch + 2 dc in every ch-space in every raglan line (= 16 dc inc on row - NOTE: Work in both ch-spaces). Repeat inc on every row from RS 3-4-4-5 (5-6) more times (= 4-5-5-6 (6-7) times in total) = 120-140-144-160 (164-180) sts. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
After last inc for raglan work 1 row with sc from WS as before.
Work next row as follows from RS:
Work 1 dc in each of the first 16-19-20-22 (23-25) dc (= left front piece), skip the next 28-32-32-36 (36-40) sc (= sleeve), ch 4-4-4-6 (6-8), work 1 dc in each of the next 32-38-40-44 (46-50) sc (= back piece), skip the next 28-32-32-36 (36-40) sc (= sleeve), ch 4-4-4-6 (6-8) and work 1 dc in each of the last 16-19-20-22 (23-25) sc (= right front piece).
Then finish body and sleeves separately.

BODY:
NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
Work 1st row from WS – work 1 sc in every dc from previous row and 1 sc in each of the 4-4-4-6 (6-8) ch under each armhole = 72-84-88-100 (104-116) sc on row.
Continue back and forth with texture rows and stripes as before – remember CROCHET INFO! AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row (= dc from RS), inc 4-0-2-2 (4-6) dc evenly = 76-84-90-102 (108-122) dc.
When piece measures approx. 24-29-34-39 (44-48) cm / 9½”-11½”-13½”-15¼” (17¼”-19”) from neck (i.e. approx. 27-32-37-42 (47-51) cm / 10½”-12½”-14½”-16½” (18½”-20”) from shoulder) – make sure that last row is 1 row with off white and dc from RS, finish opening for band mid front. Insert a marker in each side. Continue back and forth as before.
When piece measures 27-32-38-43 (49-53) cm / 10½”-12½”-15”-17” (19¼”-21”) from neck (and 30-35-41-46 (52-56) cm / 11¾”-13¾”-16”-18” (20½”-22”) from shoulder), divide for legs and finish each leg separately.

LEG:
Insert 1 marker – NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE.
Continue with texture rows and stripes back and forth over the first 38-42-45-51 (54-61) sts on row (i.e. over half of sts).
When leg measures 2 cm / 3/4’’ from marker, dec 1 sc/dc in each side - READ DECREASE TIP.
Repeat dec every 2-2-3-3½ (3½-3½) cm / 3/4”-3/4”-1 1/8”-1¼” (1¼”-1¼”) 4-4-4-4 (5-7) more times (= 5-5-5-5 (6-8) times in total) = 28-32-35-41 (42-45) sts.
When leg measures 11-14-17-20 (25-30) cm / 4½”-5½”-6¾”-8” (9¾”-11¾”) from marker, switch to light blue gray and work sc back and forth for 4 cm / 1½’’. Fasten off.
Leg measures approx. 15-18-21-24 (29-34) cm / 6”-7”-8¼”-9½” (11½”-13½”) and entire suit measures approx. 45-53-62-70 (81-90) cm / 17¾”-21”-24½”-27½” (32”-35½”) from shoulder.
Work the other leg the same way.

SLEEVE:
= 28-32-32-36 (36-40) sts. Insert 1 marker here – NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE.
Work first row as follows from RS (continue stripes as before):
Work 2-2-2-3 (3-4) ch, work 1 dc in every st and work 2-2-2-3 (3-4) ch. Turn piece, work 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, work 1 sc in each of the next 0-0-0-1 (1-2) ch, 1 sc in every dc from previous row and 1 sc in each of the 2-2-2-3 (3-4) ch from beg of previous row = 32-36-36-42 (42-48) sts on row. Continue the texture rows and stripes back and forth as before. AT THE SAME TIME when sleeve measures 2 cm / 3/4’’ from marker, dec 1 st in each side - READ DECREASE TIP.
Repeat dec every 2-2-2½-2 (2-2) cm / 3/4”-3/4”-7/8”-3/4” (3/4”-3/4”), 3-4-4-7 (7-9) more times (= 4-5-5-8 (8-10) times in total) = 24-26-26-26 (26-28) sts.
When sleeve measures 9-11-13-15 (19-24) cm / 3½”-4½”-5”-6” (7½”-9½”) from marker, switch to light blue gray. Work sc back and forth for 4 cm / 1½’’, fasten off.
Sleeve measures 13-15-17-19 (23-28) cm / 5”-6”-6¾”-7½” (9”-11”) from marker.
Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew sleeve seams tog edge to edge in outer loops of edge sts. Sew the openings under the sleeves. If desired fold up the edge at the bottom of sleeves.
Sew the opening mid front from markers where band ends and down to dividing for legs - sew in front loop of outermost st.

LEFT BAND:
Beg from WS at the bottom on left front piece with light blue gray and work 1 sc in dc at the edge on the off white stripe, * work 2 dc + 2 ch + 2 dc in next dc (i.e. in dc at the edge on light blue gray stripe), 1 sc in next dc (i.e. in dc at the edge on off white stripe) *, repeat from *-* up along left front piece to neck and finish with 1 sl st at the edge on corner by neck.
Turn piece and work as follows back from RS:
ch 3 (= 1 dc), then work 1 dc between every st and 1 dc in ch-space in every dc-group.
Fasten off.
Fasten band at the bottom by dividing for legs.

RIGHT BAND AND NECK EDGE:
Work as left band but beg from RS at the bottom on right front piece, work as left band up to neck but instead of finishing with 1 sl st in the corner by neck, continue edge around the neck as follows:
Work 1 sc in every st along the neck until 3 sts remain before raglan line, skip these 3 sts and work 4 dc in st in raglan line, skip the next 3 sts and continue with 1 sc in every st until 3 sts remain before next raglan line, skip these 3 sts and work 4 dc in st in next raglan line.
Continue like this around the neck and finish with 1 sl st at the edge on row. Turn piece and work 2nd row as on left band. Fasten off.

MORE ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to the left band. Begin with 1 button in the upper light blue gray stripe, then place 1 button in every other light blue gray stripe.
Button through hole on the inside of "fan" on band.

This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s..

Updated online: 30.07.2019
Correction - SLEEVE: Work first row as follows from RS (continue stripes as before): Work 2-2-2-3 (3-4) ch, work 1 dc in every st and work 2-2-2-3 (3-4) ch. Turn piece, work 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, work 1 sc in each of the next 0-0-0-1 (1-2) ch, 1 sc in every dc from previous row and 1 sc in each of the 2-2-2-3 (3-4) ch from beg of previous row = 32-36-36-42 (42-48) sts on row

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 25-34) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ).

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

2) What are the yarn groups?

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

8) What is a repeat?

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

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