DROPS Baby / 25 / 35

Baby Blues Hat by DROPS Design

Crochet baby hat with stripes in DROPS Karisma. Size 0 - 4 years.

DROPS design: Pattern no u-056-by
Yarn group B
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Size: 0/3 - 6/18 months (2/4) years
To fit head circumference: 38/42 - 44/46 (50/52) cm / 15”/16” - 17”/18” (19½”-20½”)

Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
50 g for all sizes in color no 01, off white.
50 g for all sizes in color no 70, light blue gray

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 mm/US 7 – or size needed to get 16 hdc in width x 14 rows vertically = 4’’ x 4’’ (10 x 10 cm).

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100% Wool
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DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO 1:
Replace first hdc on every row with 2 ch. Finish every row with 1 hdc in 2nd ch from beg of previous row.

CROCHET INFO 2:
Replace first hdc at beg of every round with 2 ch. Finish every round with 1 sl st in 2nd ch from beg of round.

STRIPES:
* 2 rows/rounds hdc with light blue gray, 2 rows/rounds hdc with off white *, repeat from *-*.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 hdc by working 2 hdc in second and next to last hdc.

CROCHET HDC TOG:
Dec a hdc by working 2 hdc tog, i.e. work a hdc but wait with last YO and pull through (= 3 sts on hook), work 1 hdc in next st and pull last YO through all 5 sts on hook.

CROCHET SC TOG:
Crochet 2 sc tog into 1 sc as follows: Insert hook in first st and pull yarn through, insert hook in next st and pull yarn through, make a YO and pull yarn through all 3 sts on hook.
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EAR FLAP:
Ch 5 on hook size 4.5 mm/US 7 with light blue gray. Work 1 hdc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 hdc in the next 2 ch = 4 hdc, turn piece. READ CROCHET INFO 1.
Then work STRIPES - see explanation above - while AT THE SAME TIME working as follows:
Work 1 row hdc while AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 hdc in each side - READ INCREASE TIP. Repeat inc in each side on every row 4-5 (6) times in total = 12-14 (16) hdc.
Continue with hdc and finish when ear flap measures 5-6 (8) cm / 2”-2½” (3”) – stop after two rows with off white. Put piece aside and work another ear flap.

HAT:
READ CROCHET INFO 2. Ch 7-7 (7) with light blue gray, work hdc over one ear flap, ch 16-18 (20) (= mid front), work hdc over the other ear flap, ch 7-7 (7) and finish with 1 sl st in first ch = 54-60 (66) ch/hdc. Beg round = mid back.
On next round work 1 hdc in every ch/hdc.
Continue with hdc in the round in stripes.
When piece measures 8-10 (11) cm / 3”-4” (4½”) from mid back, work next round with dec as follows: * 1 hdc in each of the first 4 sts, then work the next 2 hdc tog – see explanation above *, repeat from *-* the entire round (9-10-11 hdc have been dec on round).
Work 1 round without dec and then next round as follows: * 1 hdc in each of the 3 first sts, then work 2 hdc tog *, repeat from *-* the entire round.
Repeat dec every other round (with 1 hdc less between dec every time) 2 more times = 18-20 (22) hdc on round. Work 2-2 (3) rounds without dec.
On next round work all hdc tog 2 by 2 = 9-10 (11) hdc remain on round.
Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten.
Hat measures approx. 16-18 (20) cm / 6 ¼”-7” (8”) from the top and down.

CROCHET EDGE:
Work on hook size 4.5 mm/US 7 with off white around the opening on hat as follows: * 1 sc in first st, ch 1, skip 1 st/row *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in first sc.

TWINED STRING:
Cut 2 lengths off white yarn of 150 cm / 60” each. Twine them tog until they resist, thread the string through one end on ear flap (at the bottom and in the middle), place the string double and let it twine again. Make a knot at the end.
Make another string at the bottom of the other ear flap.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 25-35) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (14)

Angélique 13.11.2019 - 15:04:

Bonjour, Je ne comprends pas le début de l'étape bonnet.J'ai monté mes 7 ml mais après faut-il utiliser ces ml pour effectuer les db dans le premier cache-oreille déjà fait ou bien je fais mes 7ml que je mets de côté et je continue en db dans mes 12 db monté du cache-oreille puis je continue avec les 18 ml puis je rajoute le 2eme cache-oreille puis 7 ml.Je ne comprends pas ce passage?Pourriez-vous m'expliquer?Un grand merci d'avance.Angélique

DROPS Design 13.11.2019 kl. 15:48:

Bonjour Angélique, après les 7 ml (demi-dos), vous crochetez un des cache-oreilles soit 12 dB, puis vous crochetez 16 ml (devant du bonnet), le 2ème cache-oreille soit 12 dB et 7 ml (demi-dos) et terminez par 1 mc dans la 1ère des ml du tour = vous avez maintenant 2 x 7 ml au milieu dos et 16 ml pour le devant du bonnet. Bon crochet!

Sylvia Brown 21.08.2019 - 19:10:

I'm not sure what yarn type B is. Would be the same as a 3? And I also want you to know how much I love your patterns!!

DROPS Design 22.08.2019 kl. 09:29:

Dear Mrs Brown, you'll find here the list of your yarn group B - you can read more about the yarn used here in its Shadecard. Happy crocheting!

SOLVEIG GARNES HAUGEN 05.06.2018 - 00:08:

Iflg oppskriften skal jeg hekle 18 lm, og deretter halvstaver over neste øreklaff. Dette blir jo alt for kort? Samtidig står det (=midt foran), noe som får meg til å lure på om det betyr at jeg skal hekle 18 lm til før jeg hekler over den andre øreklaffen. Hva er riktig? Når jeg hekler 18 lm på nål 4,5 blir det omtrent passelig til dukken...

Rebecca 01.03.2018 - 02:15:

Have previously made earflap hats, all of which were part of the hat, not separate. Because these earflaps are made separately and there are no pattern directions regarding best way to attach, plus cm from mid-front of "newborn" hat body to "cheek-side" edge of each earflap, I need help in making these determinations. If the newborn lived near me, this would not be an issue, but little Daniel lives 3,000 miles from my home. Appreciate your assistance. Kindest regards.

DROPS Design 01.03.2018 kl. 09:27:

Dear Rebecca, if your tension is correct, then just follow the pattern crocheting first 7 ch, then 1 hdc in each of the st from 1st earflap, 16 ch (= mid front), 1 hdc in each of the st from 2nd earflap, then 7 ch and join in the round = you should have now 54 sts (ch on back piece + front piece and hdc over both earflaps). Happy crocheting!

Jessica 18.04.2017 - 10:14:

Hejsa. Jeg har et spørgsmål: De 2 lm jeg starter hver række med, skal jeg der i den ene af dem lave 1 halv-st i på hver række? Og i forhold til udtagning, menes der den sidste halv-st inden de 2lm eller næst sidste halv-st? Mvh. Jessica

DROPS Design 28.04.2017 kl. 08:58:

Hej Jessica, hvis du har erstattet en halv-st med 2 lm, så tæller de med som halv-st. Ja du tager ud i næst yderste halv-st, som der står under udtagningstipset. God fornøjelse!

Melanie 02.04.2017 - 17:48:

Hallo. Ich habe eine Frage zu den Ohrenklappen. Ich beginne mit 5 Luftmaschen. Muss ich auch hier breits der häkelinfo1 folgen und bereits hier zwei Luftmaschen zusätzlich machen? OderUSS man hier einfach in die zweite LM stechen und dann 4 halbe Stäbchen häkeln? Vielen Dank bereits im Voraus für Ihre Hilfe. MfG

DROPS Design 03.04.2017 kl. 10:55:

Liebe Melanie, die 2 Lm zum wenden sind in den 5 Lm inbegriffen, dh 5 Lm häkeln, und 1 H-Stb in die 3. Lm von der Nadeln, und 1 H-Stb in die 2 nächsten Lm = 4 H-Stb (= die 2 Lm = erste H-Stb). Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Sally Jensen 29.05.2016 - 04:01:

I would like to also make the sweater that matches the Baby Blue Hat pattern - Baby Drops 25-35 pattern. Could you tell me where I would find this pattern. Thank you for all your time and help. I LOVE this site and all the help. Sally

DROPS Design 29.05.2016 kl. 10:22:

Dear Mrs Jensen you can find the related suit under the tab "related patterns" next to the picture: it's the pattern 25-34. Happy crocheting!

Rose Keßler 16.05.2016 - 13:30:

Hallo, gibt es auch die Anleitung für das passende Jäckchen? Mit lieben Grüßen Rose Keßler

DROPS Design 17.05.2016 kl. 08:38:

Liebe Rose, das Kleidungsstück, das man auf dem Foto sieht, ist der Strampelanzug Modell b25-34.

Susi 14.03.2016 - 10:28:

Hallo kannst du mir den Anfang der Mütze noch etwas anders erklären oder gibt es dazu vielleicht ein Video# Danke

DROPS Design 14.03.2016 kl. 11:44:

Hallo Susi, in der ersten Reihe der Mütze werden zwischen den Ohrenklappen Luftmaschen gehäkelt, damit sie nachher den gesamten Kopfumfang in der Runde haben.

Rose Marshall 11.01.2016 - 14:45:

When changing colors - do I drop the yarn and pick again after 2 rows? thank you.

DROPS Design 11.01.2016 kl. 17:04:

Dear Mrs Marshall, that's correct, just leave unworked colour while you are working the other colour and then take again previous colour, make sure to not tighten strand too much then. Happy crocheting!

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