DROPS / 155 / 12

Spring Is Here by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS shawl in garter st in "Kid-Silk".

  • Spring Is Here / DROPS 155-12 - Knitted DROPS shawl in garter st in Kid-Silk.
DROPS design: Pattern no ks-090
Yarn group A
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Knitting measurements: Height: 50 cm / 19 3/4'' Width at the top: 143 cm / 56''
Measurements after shaping: Height in the middle: 58 cm / 22 3/4'' Width at the top: 200 cm / 79"

Materials:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
75 g color no 13, pink

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 8 mm / US 11 – or size needed to get 12 sts = width 10 cm / 4''.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.80 $ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 5.80 $ /25g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 5.80 $ /25g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.40$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
WAVE EDGE:
* K 1, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* and finish with K 1. Repeat this row one more time.
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SHAWL:
Worked back and forth, top down on circular needle.
Cast on 54 sts on circular needle size 8 mm / US 11 with Kid-Silk.
K 1 row. Work next row as follows: K 1, 1 YO, K 2, 1 YO, K 48 (insert a marker on each side of the 48 sts and move it upwards when working), 1 YO, K 2, 1 YO, K 1 = 58 sts.
Then K all rows - AT THE SAME TIME inc with YOs as above (after first st, before first marker, after second marker and before last st on row), inc every other row (= 4 inc per inc row) until finished measurements.
When piece measures approx. 50 cm / 19 3/4'' vertically, work WAVE EDGE – see explanation above.
Bind off sts and YOs with K.

SHAPING:
Place the piece in lukewarm water until it is soaking wet. Carefully squeeze out the water - do not twist. Then roll the piece in a towel and squeeze to remove more water - the piece will now only be moist. Place the piece on a carpet or mattress - carefully stretch it out to measurements found at the top of pattern. Leave to dry. Repeat the process when the garment has been washed.

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Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 155-12) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (28)

country flag Els Adens 16.09.2021 - 15:31:

Als de zijde die tegen de hals komt de bovenzijde is, dan wordt er toch van onder naar boven gebreid? Ik begrijp ook niet dat de golvende rand op het einde gebreid wordt, dan zit die toch tegen de hals, waar het meest aantal steken zit??

user icon DROPS Design 17.09.2021 kl. 09:49:

Dag Els,

De omslagdoek wordt van boven naar beneden gebreid, dus vanaf de hals naar de golvende rand. De golvende rand brei je dus op het einde.

country flag Laura 05.02.2021 - 12:04:

Il lavoro è eseguito col filato a capo o doppio o singolo? Grazie

user icon DROPS Design 05.02.2021 kl. 19:17:

Buonasera Laura, lo scialle è lavorato a 1 filo. Buon lavoro!

country flag Jeanny 15.12.2020 - 03:56:

I meant do you repeat row 1 to get 48 on opposite side? Where do you put 2nd marker. I’m totally confused. Please help

user icon DROPS Design 15.12.2020 kl. 08:52:

Dear Jeanny, you will increase on every other row (= on every row from RS) 1 stitch inside 1 edge stitch + 1 stitch on either side of the 2 markers: K1, YO, knit to marker, YO, marker, k48, marker, YO, knit to last st, YO, K1. The number of sts before and after the 48 sts will increase, but you always should have the same 48 sts as before in the middle of piece. Happy knitting!

country flag Jeannie 15.12.2020 - 03:21:

I’m a bit confused on directions. Do you reprove 1 to get the marker on the other side? It doesn’t say where to place the 2nd marker. I’m confused. Please help

user icon DROPS Design 15.12.2020 kl. 06:48:

Hi Jeannie, Marker 1 is inserted before the 48 knitted stitches and marker 2 straight after these stitches. Happy knitting!

country flag Dagmar 03.06.2019 - 14:09:

Tak for svar - det lyder dejligt så fortsætter jeg - er næsten færdig og rigtig spændt på det :)

country flag Dagmar 01.06.2019 - 14:19:

Jeg forstår ikke I skriver den bliver strikket ovenfra og ned, da man begynder med få masker og øger, sjalet er vel bredest for oven ikke? Og I skriver man skal lave bølgekant til slut, men er den ikke forneden? Skal man selv tage maskerne på igen forneden, efter man har afsluttet arbejdet?

user icon DROPS Design 03.06.2019 kl. 08:22:

Hej Dagmar, jo men det stemmer, sjalet bliver strikket ovenfra og ned. Hvis du følger opskrifter bliver det som på billedet. Sørg for at du ikke strikker for stramt. God fornøjelse!

country flag Rhonda 29.05.2019 - 17:34:

Hi! Sorry just counted stitches- I have 264 stitches and my gauge is 6 stitches to 1 inch - therefore I actually have 44 inches wide and 7 inches deep. Should I continue adding 4 stitches to every R S row to get 60 to 65 inches in final width before blocking? Thanks!

country flag Rhonda 29.05.2019 - 16:36:

Hi! I mentioned I was knitting this shawl in Kid silk on 4.5 mm needles and increasing 2 stitches at each edge. That is 4 stitches every RS line as per pattern. You said since I was using smaller needles I would have to increase 4 stitches per RS line. Did you mean 8 stitches? At present i’ve Got about 24 inches in width and about 7 inches in depth. Would you say I need to increase more than 4 stitch perRS line to get about 60 inches in width? And about 16 or 17 inches in depth?

user icon DROPS Design 31.05.2019 kl. 08:27:

Dear Rhonda, we are unfortunately not able to adjust every pattern to every single request. If you wish to work this shawl with smaller needle, you will have to adjust the pattern to your own tension; For any further personnal assistance please contact the store where you bought the yarn - even per mail or telephone. Happy knitting!

country flag Rhonda 21.05.2019 - 17:46:

I’m making this pretty shawl in Kid Silk but on 4.5 mm needles- will I need more than 75 g yarn? Also the yo ‘s aren't Near the center of the shawl as in the photo but apparently at the edges according to the pattern placing- which I think I prefer. Is this an error? Thanks!

user icon DROPS Design 22.05.2019 kl. 08:33:

Dear Rhonda, if you work with smaller needles your tension is completely different so you might need more yarns than required in the pattern. When increasing on the shawl, you should then increase 4 sts on every RS row : 1 stitch on each side + 1 stitch before 1st marker (= before the middle 48 sts) + 1 st after 2nd marker (= after the middle 48 sts). Since you are knitting with a different tension, the yarn overs/holes on each side of these 48 sts will also look smaller than on the photo. Happy knititng!

country flag Eliana 22.08.2018 - 21:40:

Buongiorno, È possibile usare il filato "Brushed alpaca silk" al posto di "kid silk"? Grazie.

user icon DROPS Design 22.08.2018 kl. 23:12:

Buonasera Eliana, DROPS Alpaca Silk appartiene al gruppo filati C ed è troppo spesso per questo scialle che richiede un filato del gruppo A, in particolare Kid-Silk che è molto soffice e ariosa. Buon lavoro!

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