DROPS / 151 / 26

Otus by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS jacket with bands in fan pattern in ”Nepal”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no ne-119
Yarn group C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 100-108-116-126-138-150 cm / 39½”-42½”-45¾”-49½”-54¼”-59”
Full length: 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm / 24 3/8’’-25¼’’-26’’-26¾’’-27½’’-28 3/8’’

Materials:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
750-850-900-1000-1100-1200 g color no 0618, camel

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 5 mm / H – or size needed to get 12 sc/tr in width x 3½ texture rows vertically = 10 x 10 cm / 4’’ x 4’’.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.75 $ /50g
DROPS Nepal uni colour DROPS Nepal uni colour 2.75 $ /50g
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DROPS Nepal mix DROPS Nepal mix 2.85 $ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
At beg of every sc row beg with ch 1, then work 1 sc in first st before continuing with 1 sc in every st (ch does NOT count as 1 st).
Finish row with 1 sc in 4th ch from beg of previous row.

At beg of every tr row beg with 4 ch in 1st st, then work 1 tr in every st (4 ch = 1st tr).
Finish row with 1 tr in first sc from beg of previous row.

TEXTURE ROWS:
* 1 row tr, 1 row sc *, repeat from *-* until finished measurements - NOTE: Work in every sc/tr from previous row and not between.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1 (applies to sleeve) and A.2 (applies to band).
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JACKET:
Ch 139-151-163-179-196-213 on hook size 5 mm / H with Nepal.
Work first row as follows: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, * 1 sc in each of the 3 next ch, skip 1 ch *, repeat from *-* until 1-1-1-1-2-3 ch remain and finish with 1 sc in each of the last ch = 104-113-122-134-147-160 sc, turn piece. READ CROCHET INFO and work TEXTURE ROWS upwards – see explanation above. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
When piece measures approx. 45-46-47-48-49-50 cm / 17¾’’-18’’-18½’’-19’’-19¼’’-19¾’’, divide for armholes and finish each part separately as follows:

FRONT PIECE:
Continue with texture rows back and forth over the outermost 22-24-26-29-32-35 sts in one side of piece (= front piece). When piece measures approx. 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm / 24 3/8’’-25¼’’-26’’-26¾’’-27½’’-28 3/8’’– finish after 1 row with sc, cut the yarn. Repeat over the outermost 22-24-26-29-32-35 sts in the other side of piece.

BACK PIECE:
Continue with texture rows back and forth over the 60-65-70-76-83-90 sts on back piece until piece measures approx. 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm / 23 5/8’’-24 3/8’’-25¼’’-26’’-26¾’’-27½’’ – make sure that last row is 1 row with sc. Now work 1 texture row (i.e. 1 row tr + 1 row sc) back and forth over the outermost 22-24-26-29-32-35 sts on shoulder. Cut the yarn and repeat over the outermost 22-24-26-29-32-35 sts in the other side (i.e. do not work over the middle 16-17-18-18-19-20 sts = neckline in the back of neck). Fasten off.

SLEEVE:
Work 35-37-37-40-40-43 ch on hook size 5 mm / H with Nepal. Work first row as follows: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, * 1 sc in each of the 3 next ch, skip 1 ch *, repeat from *-* until 1-3-3-2-2-1 ch remain and finish with 1 sc in each of the last ch = 26-28-28-30-30-32 sc, turn piece. Then work texture rows back and forth.

READ THE REST OF SLEEVE BEFORE CONTINUING!
AT THE SAME TIME on 5th row (i.e. on third row with tr), insert 1 marker in the middle of piece. Work tr as before until 2 sts remain before marker, work pattern according to diagram A.1 over the next 4 sts, i.e. work as follows: Skip 1 st, 1 tr in next st, ch 2, 1 tr in next st, skip 1 st and continue the rest of row with tr as before.
Continue pattern as shown in A.1 (arrow in the middle of A.1 shows marker).
AT THE SAME TIME on 4th-4th-4th-4th-3rd-3rd row with tr (piece measures approx. 9-9-9-9-6-6 cm / 3½”-3½”-3½”-3½”-2½”-2½”), inc 1 tr in each side by working 2 tr in second and next to last tr in each side.
Repeat inc every other row with tr 6-4-3-3-2-1 more time (= 7-5-4-4-3-2 inc in total in each side) and then on every row with tr 0-3-5-5-7-8 times in total = 40-44-46-48-50-52 sts. When piece measures 49-48-47-45-43-41 cm / 19¼”-19”-18½”-17¾”-17”-16 1/8” (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders), cut the yarn.
Work another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew sleeve seams tog edge to edge in outer loops of edge sts. Sew sleeves in armhole with neat, little stitches - make sure to avoid a tight seam.

BAND:
Beg from RS at the bottom on right front piece and work as shown in diagram A.2, i.e. work as follows:
ROW 1: 1 sc in first st, ch 5 (= 1 tr + 1 ch), in first tr work 2 tr + ch 2 + 2 tr + ch 2, * skip 1 tr, in next tr work 2 tr + ch 2 + 2 tr + ch 2 *, repeat from *-* along right front piece, along the neckline at the back of neck and down along left front piece. Turn piece.
ROW 2: 5 ch (= 1 tr + 1 ch), then work as follows in every ch-space in the middle of every tr-group: 2 tr + ch 2 + 2 tr, ch 2.
Repeat 2nd row until a total of 4-4-5-5-5-5 rows have been worked. Work last row as follows: 5 ch (= 1 tr + 1 ch), then work as follows in every ch-space in the middle of every tr-group: 3 tr + ch 2 + 3 tr + ch 2.
When row is done, cut the yarn. Fasten all strands.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= 1 ch
= 1 sc
= 1 tr


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 151-26) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (34)

Stephanie 11.06.2019 - 14:15:

Bonjour. Je ne comprend pas la 2ème partie du DOS.après les 60cm de hauteur. Que faire? Merci

DROPS Design 11.06.2019 kl. 14:59:

Bonjour Stéphanie, vous allez maintenant former l'encolure en ne crochetant que les 22 premières du rang (taille S): tournez, crochetez 1 rang de double-brides sur les 22 premières mailles, tournez, crochetez 1 rang de ms sur ces 22 m, coupez le fil. Crochetez maintenant les 22 m de l'autre épaule de la même façon en laissant les 16 mailles centrales non travaillées, elles vont former l'encolure dos. Bon crochet!

Becky 07.08.2018 - 05:23:

Hi! Lovely pattern - quick question. This is the first piece of clothing I’ve ever crocheted. When I do the assembly, which side of the fabric is the “right” side? I see texture on both! Would it be the side that is facing me when I am working the single crochet? (I am right handed.) Thank you!

DROPS Design 07.08.2018 kl. 09:41:

Dear Becky, the right side of piece is the side where you crocheted trebles (the single crochets were worked from WS). Happy crocheting!

Val 13.04.2018 - 16:52:

Hello\r\nI have worked the jacket front & back pieces to the point where all is level at 64cm tall (size M). I do not understand where the next instructions are worked. \"Now work 1 texture row back and forth over the outermost 24 sts on shoulder\"\r\nI have not cut the yarn at the end of the back piece but I am not sure I then continue from the same point. The picture or diagrams are not helpful to me. Please help. Thanks in advance. Val :-)

DROPS Design 13.04.2018 kl. 17:16:

Dear Val, When back piece measures 62 cm in size M (or adjust after a row with dc), you will now shape neck working only on the first sts on each side for the shoulder, ie turn and work 1 textured row over the first 24 sts, cut yarn. And work now 1 textured row over the first 24 sts from the other side = leave the middle 17 sts unworked for neckline on back piece. Happy crocheting!

Val 02.04.2018 - 17:04:

Hello I am making this in size M but may want the jacket to be slightly longer than 64cm. If I add more rows to the jacket, will it mess up the band later? I have read the instructions for the band and it seems to me that the band works with a certain number of rows. Could you please confirm what multiples I need to work with? Thanks in advance :-)

DROPS Design 03.04.2018 kl. 09:32:

Dear Val, each fan in A.2 is worked over 4 sts, to get A.2 working around you will have to get the number of rows matching. You can always adjust by working the front bands skipping more/less rows to get the front band working. Happy crocheting!

Martha Van Dam 27.01.2016 - 13:25:

Waar kan ik maten vinden zodat ik kan kijken welke ik moet nemen bedankt Martha

DROPS Design 27.01.2016 kl. 15:26:

Hoi Martha. Onderaan het patroon vind je de afmetingen per maat in cm.

Rose 09.01.2016 - 12:41:

Is the jacket part of the pattern supposed to be just the back of the cardigan of does it include the from as well ? My current jacket part has an enormous width (100 cm) and I'm reaching gauge. It's either too big for just the back or too small for being both...

DROPS Design 11.01.2016 kl. 09:41:

Dear Rose, the jacket part consists on both front pieces + back piece worked together to armholes, you then finish each piece separately. You will find check measurements for each size in chart at the bottom of the pattern. Happy crocheting!

Beth 08.09.2015 - 22:03:

I will be starting this pattern shortly. I just want to clarify when the pattern says it is written in American English that means i do not have to convert from UK crochet terms. I was a little confused by the note in that same paragraph that says "If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here." That seems to indicate i need to be doing US DC when the pattern says TR??? Thanks in advance

DROPS Design 09.09.2015 kl. 09:49:

Dear Beth, you can always check the written language for the pattern with the flag under the picture. If it is written in US-English, you can follow it as usual. Crochet terminology is different for crocheting in British and American English that's the reason why we advice to check the language. As you can see here, a dc in US-English is a tr in UK-English. Happy crocheting!

Aida 15.05.2015 - 18:43:

Hi i'm a bit confuse i have finish the piece at 45 cm, i don't understand divide for the armholes, what do you mean divide , fold the piece ?? Please help!

DROPS Design 16.05.2015 kl. 09:47:

Dear Aida, body is worked in one piece to armholes. When piece measures 45 cm, you continue each piece separately to shoulders, ie work only over the first 22 sts in one side for first front, then in the other side for 2nd front, and work over the middle 60 sts on back piece. Happy crocheting!

Marya 10.03.2015 - 22:57:

I V finished with front and back piece but when i wanted to sew the shoulder i v 2 cm lelt on the top(i think it s the texture row we add a the end )when i sew them edge to edge i v the front piece taller than the back piece pls could u tell me how shall i do thanks

DROPS Design 11.03.2015 kl. 08:57:

Dear Marya, both front pieces should have same length as back piece, the last 2 rows worked on each shoulder on back piece are done 2 cm before final measurements, you may require to crochet more rows to reach same height. Happy crocheting!

Marya 06.03.2015 - 13:28:

I m working M size i divide for armholes in 46cm but there s no hole ,will the hole be created in the last row over 24 sts and please can u tel me how should i sew the sleeve thanks

DROPS Design 06.03.2015 kl. 14:31:

Dear Marya, you will sew the last 24 sts on back piece each side together with the 24 sts on right and left shoulder, this will create a hole (from where you divide work to shoulder) where you can then sew sleeve. Happy crocheting!

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