DROPS / 150 / 49

Summer Nights by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS blanket in ”Delight” and “Fabel”.

DROPS design: Pattern no de-109
Yarn group A
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Measurements: approx. 100 x 170 cm / 40" x 67"
Materials:
DROPS DELIGHT from Garnstudio
150 g color no 11, lilac/green
150 g color no 15, turquoise/burgundy/beige

And use:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
250 g color no 800, off white/beige
150 g color no 310, sunset

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 6 mm / J/10 - or size needed to get 1 square to measure 23 x 23 cm / 9" x 9".

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.90 $ /50g
DROPS Delight print DROPS Delight print 3.90 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.20 $ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 3.35 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 3.75 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 49.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
COLOR CHANGE TIP:
To get a nice transition between the color changes, work last sl st on round with the new color as follows: Insert hook in ch at beg of round, get the new color with hook and pull yarn back through ch and st on hook.

COLOR COMBINATION:
SQUARE 1:
ROUND 1-3: Delight no 11, lilac/green
ROUND 4-5: Fabel no 800, off white/beige
ROUND 6-7: Delight no 11
ROUND 8: Fabel no 310, sunset
ROUND 9: Delight no 11
ROUND 10: Fabel no 310
ROUND 11: Fabel no 800

SQUARE 2:
ROUND 1-3: Delight no 15, turquoise/burgundy/beige
ROUND 4-5: Fabel no 800, off white/beige
ROUND 6-7: Delight no 15
ROUND 8: Fabel no 310, sunset
ROUND 9: Delight no 15
ROUND 10: Fabel no 310
ROUND 11: Fabel no 800
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BLANKET:
Work squares as explained below. Work 14 squares in every color combination - see explanation above - 28 squares in total.

CROCHET SQUARE:
READ COLOR CHANGE TIP AND COLOR COMBINATION.
Ch 6 on hook size 6 mm / J/10 with Delight and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. Then work according to diagram A.1, i.e. work as follows:
ROUND 1: ch 1, work 7 sc in ch-ring and finish with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round = 8 sts.
ROUND 2: ch 6 (= 1 dc + 3 ch), * 1 dc in next sc, 3 ch *, repeat from *-* a total of 7 times and finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 8 dc with 3 ch between each.
ROUND 3: 1 sl st in first ch-space, ch 3 (= 1 dc), 3 dc in same ch-space, * ch 2, 4 dc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* 7 times in total, work 2 ch and finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 8 dc-groups with 2 ch between each. Fasten off.
ROUND 4: Switch to Fabel and beg with 1 sc in any ch-space. ch 3 (= 1 dc), 2 dc in same ch-space, ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-space, * ch 3, 2 sc in next ch-space, ch 3, in next ch-space work: 3 dc + ch 3 + 3 dc *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total, ch 3, 2 sc in next ch-space, ch 3 and finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 5: 1 ch (= 1 sc), 1 sc in each of the next 2 dc, 3 sc in ch-space in the corner, 1 sc in each of the next 3 dc, * 4 sc in ch-space, 1 sc between the next 2 sc, 4 sc in ch-space, 1 sc in each of the next 3 dc, 3 sc in ch-space in the corner, 1 sc in each of the next 3 dc *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total, 4 sc in next ch-space, 1 sc between the next 2 sc, 4 sc in next ch-space, switch to Delight and finish round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round.
ROUND 6: ch 3 with Delight (= 1 dc), then work 1 dc in every sc from previous round but in the middle sc in every corner work 2 dc + ch 2 + 2 dc = 21 dc between every ch-space, finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 7: ch 1 (= 1 sc), then work 1 sc in every dc from previous round but in ch-space in every corner work 3 sc, finish round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round = 96 sc on round. Fasten off.
ROUND 8: Switch to Fabel and beg with 1 sl st in the middle sc in any corner. ch 3 (= 1 dc), 3 dc in same st, ch 2, 4 dc in same st, * (1 ch, skip 5 sc, 4 dc in next sc), repeat from (-) 3 times in total, work ch 1, skip 5 sc, in next sc (i.e. sc in the corner) work 4 dc + ch 2 + 4 dc *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total, repeat from (-) 1 more time, work ch 1, switch to Delight and finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 9: Turn piece and ch 3 with Delight (= 1 dc), work 3 dc in same ch, then work 4 dc in every ch and ch 1 between every dc-group. In ch-space in every corner work 4 dc + ch 2 + 4 dc, switch to Fabel at end of round and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 10: Work as round 9 but with Fabel.
ROUND 11: Work as round 9 but with Fabel. Fasten off.

ASSEMBLY:
Place the squares with 4 squares in width and 7 squares in height. Work squares tog edge to edge with off white/beige Fabel as shown in diagram A.2, i.e. place 2 squares tog and work 1 sc in ch-space in the corner on one square, ch 1, 1 sc in ch-space in the corner on the other square, * ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space on both squares (work in both ch-spaces at the same time) *, repeat from *-* and finish with ch 4, 1 sc in ch-space in the corner on the first square, 1 ch and 1 sl st in ch-space in the corner on the other square.
NOTE: First crochet squares tog alongside and then across.

CROCHET EDGE AROUND BLANKET:
Work a finishing edge around the entire blanket on hook size 6 mm / J/10 with off white/beige Fabel as shown in diagram A.3, i.e. work as follows:
ROUND 1: Beg from RS in a corner on blanket and work with off white/beige Fabel as follows: ch 3 (= 1 dc), 3 dc in same ch, ch 2, 4 dc in same ch-space, then work 4 dc in every ch and 1 ch between every dc-group. In ch-space in every corner work 4 dc + ch 2 + 4 dc, finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 2: ch 1 (= 1 sc), then work 1 sc in every st the entire round (i.e. 1 sc in every dc, 1 sc in every ch, 1 sc in each corner on the squares, 4 sc in every transition between every square and 2 sc in each corner on the blanket), finish round with 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round.
ROUND 3: ch 3, (= 1 dc), then work 1 dc in every sc the entire round but in each of the 2 sc in every corner on the blanket work 2 dc = 4 dc in the corners, finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 4: ch 3 (= 1 dc), then work 1 dc in every dc but in each of the 4 dc in every corner on the blanket work 2 dc = 8 dc in each corner, finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 5: ch 3 (= 1 dc), * skip 3 dc, 1 sc in next dc, skip 3 dc, 10 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round - adjust so that there is one dc-group with 10 dc in the middle of every corner and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch on round.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= 1 sc
= 1 sl st
= 1 ch
= 1 dc


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 150-49) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (29)

Claudia Häberle 31.03.2020 - 23:35:

Hallo, ich würde gerne diese Decke häkeln. Bräuchte sie aber etwas größer, ca.120 x 190. Das wären dann 12 Grannys mehr und die Umrandung wäre größer. Wieviel Wolle würden Sie dann für die Decke empfehlen ? Vielen lieben Dank für Ihre Hilfe schon im Voraus Grüße Claudia Häberle

DROPS Design 01.04.2020 kl. 08:25:

Liebe Frau Häberle, leider können wir jeder Anleitung nach jedem individuellen Frage anpassen und einzelne Modelle auf individuellen Wunsch hin umrechnen. Wenn sie Hilfe damit brauchen, wenden Sie sich bitte an Ihrem DROPS Laden, dort hilft man Ihnen gerne weiter, auch telefonisch oder per E-Mail. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Soyoung 30.03.2020 - 16:59:

Hi! i can,t understand “edge around blanket round 2” part.. 4 sc,, Which part should I do it? I can't find a place to do it. Thank you!

DROPS Design 03.04.2020 kl. 12:58:

Dear Soyoung, our designteam will check this round, but I would skip that part, ie work only sc on round 2 on edge - just as shown in diagram A.3. Happy crocheting!

Rosa María Sanz Ledesma 28.08.2019 - 13:52:

Buenos días: En este patrón se recomienda tejer con ganchillo del número seis pero la lana es muy fina. Es un error, se teje con hilo doble?? porque el tejido con el 6 queda muy abierto... Muchas gracias

DROPS Design 31.08.2019 kl. 19:58:

Hola Rosa Maria. En este patrón utilizan un número de ganchillo superior a lo habitual para esta lana. Pero el tamaño del ganchillo es solo orientativo. Es necesario hacer una muestra para poder elegir el numero de ganchillo apropiado. No se teje con hilo doble

Esther 05.07.2016 - 16:39:

Vraagje over de rand die om de deken heen wordt gehaakt: bij toer 1 is het mij niet helemaal duidelijk wat de bedoeling is bij de overgang tussen twee verschillende vierkantjes. Haak ik 4 stk in de losse tussen de vierkantjes en dan dus niet in de hoeken van de vierkantjes zelf? Bij toer 2 staat dat er 4 v in elke overgang tussen elk vierkant worden gehaakt, zijn dit dus 4v in de 4 stk die dan tussen de vierkanten ontstaan?

DROPS Design 06.07.2016 kl. 14:30:

Hoi Esther. Je hebt de vierkantjes samengehaakt volgens patroon A.2 = dus je haakt de 4 stk in de lossen tussen het vierkantje. Je haakt dan 4 stk in elke l op het vierkantje met 1 l boven elke stk-groep. Ik zou geen stk haken in de hoeken, volgens mij wordt het dan te veel.

Benthe Enger 05.10.2015 - 15:59:

Skal dette teppet hekles med dobbel tråd? Jeg synes garnet virker så tynt for pinne nr 6.

DROPS Design 06.10.2015 kl. 14:33:

Hej Benthe, ja tæppet hækles bare med 1 tråd. God fornøjelse!

Manuela 30.04.2015 - 13:08:

Muss man für die Decke "Summer Nights" (150-49) den Faden doppelt nehmen, weil laut Anleitung eine 6mm Nadel verwendet werden soll?? Auf den Garnen sind 2,5 bzw. 3 mm Nadeln angegeben. Vielen Dank vorab für eine Antwort!!

DROPS Design 30.04.2015 kl. 22:30:

Sie nehmen das Garn nicht doppelt, sondern häkeln einfädig. Die Maschen sollen sehr locker werden, die Decke soll luftig und anschmiegsam sein, daher die dicke Nadel. Theoretisch können Sie dünne Garne immer mit deutlich stärkeren Nadeln als auf der Banderole angegeben stricken (oder umgekehrt auch die Nadelstärke verringern), das wirkt sich dann in erster Linie auf das Maschenbild aus - dickere Nadel + dünnes Garn = lockere Maschen, typisch beim Lace-Stricken z.B. Die empfohlene Nadelstärke ist ein Richtwert für ein gutes Maschenbild - nicht zu locker und nicht zu fest, letztendlich ist aber immer die Maschenprobe und Nadelstärke der jeweiligen Anleitung maßgeblich.

Katia 01.04.2015 - 13:40:

Salve, vi chiedo di un consiglio. Volendo fare la coperta un po' + grande, ad esempio una fila di quadrati in più in larghezza e una in lunghezza (circa 120x190) potrebbe essere sufficiente l'acquisto di un gomitolo in più per ognuna delle tipologie/colori indicate? grazie mille, K

DROPS Design 01.04.2015 kl. 16:07:

Buongiorno Katia. La coperta così come presentata è formata da 28 quadrati. Per aggiungere una riga sia in larghezza che in lunghezza, dovrà lavorare altri 12 quadrati, quindi quasi la metà in più di quelli che riesce a lavorare con le quantità di filato indicate. Le consigliamo di aggiungere 3 gomitoli di fabel, colore panna/beige e 2 gomitoli per ognuno degli altri colori. Buon lavoro!

Anna 03.02.2015 - 15:50:

Ik heb een vraag over de dikte van de haaknaald. In het patroon is aangegeven dat haaknaald 6 mm gebruikt moet worden, maar op de wikkel van het garen staat 2 mm. Het garen is ook heel dun. Is het wel de bedoeling om met haaknaald 6 mm te haken (ik ga ervan uit dat ik met één draad tegelijk haak). Vriendelijke groeten, Anna

DROPS Design 04.02.2015 kl. 13:24:

Hoi Anna. De naalddikte op de wikkel is een standaard, maar dat kan verschillen ivm het ontwerp, steken, structuur enzovoort. De vierkanten voor dit deken zijn los gehaakt. Je moet uitgaan van de stekenverhouding in het patroon: 1 vierkant meet 23 x 23 cm. Wij raden naald 6 aan, maar maak een proefvierkantje en kies de naald die je nodig hebt voor de juiste afmeting.

Jaana Leontjev 10.10.2014 - 19:53:

Miten ohje kuva näe selvä kuva isompi T.Jaana leontjev

DROPS Design 13.10.2014 kl. 16:18:

Kuva suurenee kun viet hiiren, eli kursorin, kuvan päälle.

Jolanda Ketting 17.09.2014 - 13:26:

Met het in elkaar zetten leg je de blokken dan met de goede of verkeerde kant op elkaar

DROPS Design 17.09.2014 kl. 14:49:

Hoi Jolanda. Je haakt van de goede kant van de vierkantjes.

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