Princess Petal by DROPS Design

Circle jacket crocheted in 2 threads DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk. Size children 3 - 12 years.

  • Princess Petal / DROPS Children 24-1 - Circle jacket crocheted in 2 threads DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk. Size children 3 - 12 years.
  • Princess Petal / DROPS Children 24-1 - Circle jacket crocheted in 2 threads DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk. Size children 3 - 12 years.
  • Princess Petal / DROPS Children 24-1 - Circle jacket crocheted in 2 threads DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk. Size children 3 - 12 years.
DROPS design: Pattern no bs-005-bn
Yarn group A + A
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Size: 3/5 - 6/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
Size in cm: 98/110 - 116/128 - 134/140 - 146/152
Chest measurements: 54/58 - 60/64 - 66/70 - 72/76
Materials:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
150-150-150-200 g, colour no 4088, heather
150-150-150-150 g colour no 3250, light old pink
100-100-150-150 g colour no 3125, light pink
100-100-100-100 g colour no 0100, off white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5 mm – or size needed to get 15 tr in width x 8 rows vertically with 2 strands = 10 x 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
from 4.10 £ /50g
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour 4.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 41.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
STRIPES - BODY:
Worked in a circle from mid back.
Beg with 2 strands of colour 4088. Continue as follows:
3-3-4-4 rounds with 2 strands of colour 4088.
3-3-4-4 rounds with 1 strand of colour 4088 + 1 strand of colour 3250.
3-4-4-4 rounds with 2 strands of colour 3250.
4-4-4-5 rounds with 1 strand of colour 3250 + 1 strand of colour 3125.
4-4-4-5 rounds with 2 strands of colour 3125.
3-4-4-4 rounds/rows with 1 strand of colour 3125 + 1 strand of colour 0100.
3-3-5-5 rows with 2 strands of colour 0100.

STRIPES - SLEEVE:
Worked from sleeve cap and down in stripes as follows:
Beg with 1 strand of colour 3250 + 1 strand of colour 3125.
Work 9-10-11-12 cm with this colour combination. Continue with 9-10-11-12 cm with 2 strands of colour 3250 and
10-10-11-12 cm with 1 strand of colour 4088 + 1 strand of colour 3250. Then finish the sleeve with 2 strands of colour 4088 = approx. 10-11-12-12 cm.

CROCHET INFO:
Replace first tr on every round/row with 3 ch. Finish every round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.

DECREASE TIP 1 (applies to body):
Dec as follows: Work tr until 3 tr remain, * in the first of these work 1 htr, in the next 1 dc and in the last 1 sl st, turn with 1 ch, skip sl st, work 1 sl st in dc, 1 dc in htr, 1 htr in first tr, continue with tr until 3 tr remain at the end of row *, repeat from *-* until 6-7-7-7 rows have been worked in total.

DECREASE TIP 2 (applies to sleeves):
Dec 1 tr at beg and end of row by working the second and third tr tog and the 2 next to last tr tog, this is done as follows: Work 1 tr in first tr but wait with last pull through, work 1 tr in next tr but on last pull through, pull thread through all 3 loops on hook.
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BODY:
Worked in the round in a circle from mid back with 2 strands and STRIPES – see explanation above.
Crochet 5 ch on hook size 5 mm and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. READ CROCHET INFO!
ROUND 1:
12 tr in ch-ring.
ROUND 2:
1 tr, * 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 2 ch and 1 sl st in 1st tr = 12 tr with 2 ch between each.
ROUND 3:
1 tr in every tr and 2 tr in every ch-space the entire round = 36 tr.
ROUND 4:
* 1 tr in each of the first 2 tr, 2 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 48 tr.
ROUND 5:
1 tr, * 2 ch, skip 1 tr, 1 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 2 ch and 1 sl st in 1st tr = 24 tr with 2 ch between each.
ROUND 6:
1 tr in every tr and 2 tr in every ch-space the entire round = 72 tr.
ROUND 7:
Work 1 tr in every tr but in every 6th tr work 2 tr = 84 tr.
ROUND 8:
Work 1 tr in every tr but in every 7th tr work 2 tr = 96 tr.
ROUND 9:
Work 1 tr in every tr but in every 8th tr work 2 tr = 108 tr.
ROUND 10:
Work 1 tr in every tr but in every 9th tr work 2 tr = 120 tr.
ROUND 11:
Work 1 tr in every tr but in every 10th tr work 2 tr = 132 tr.
Piece measures approx. 14 cm from centre and outwards.

SIZE 3/5 YEARS:
ROUND 12:
Work 1 tr in each of the first 30 tr (= up towards neck), work 22 loose ch, skip the next 20 tr (= armhole), then work 1 tr in each of the next 62 tr (= down towards back), work 22 loose ch, skip the next 20 tr (= armhole) and fasten with 1 sl st in first tr at beg of round.
ROUND 13:
Work 1 tr in each of the first 30 tr but inc 2 tr evenly (= 32 tr), then work 22 tr in ch-row over armhole, work 1 tr in each of the next 62 tr but inc 2 tr evenly (= 64 tr), work 22 tr in ch-row over armhole, and fasten with 1 sl st in first tr at beg of round = 140 tr.
ROUND 14 to 17:
Continue with tr – at the same time inc 10 tr evenly on every round. After 17th round there are 180 tr on round and piece measures approx. 21 cm from centre and outwards. Fasten off.
Then work only over 60 tr in each side - i.e. the 30 tr at the top by neck and the 30 tr at the bottom of back are no longer worked. Continue with explanation below front piece.

SIZE 6/8 YEARS:
ROUND 12:
Work 1 tr in every tr but in every 11th tr work 2 tr = 144 tr.
ROUND 13:
Work 1 tr in each of the first 35 tr (= up towards neck), work 23 loose ch, skip the next 21 tr (= armhole), then work 1 tr in each of the next 67 tr (= down towards back), work 23 loose ch, skip the next 21 tr (= armhole) and fasten with 1 sl st in first tr at beg of round.
ROUND 14:
Work 1 tr in each of the first 35 tr but inc 3 tr evenly (= 38 tr), then work 23 tr in ch-row over armhole, work 1 tr in each of the next 67 tr but inc 3 tr evenly (= 70 tr), work 23 tr in ch-row over armhole, and fasten with 1 sl st in first tr at beg of round = 154 tr.
ROUND 15 to 19:
Continue with tr – at the same time inc 10 tr evenly on every round. After 19th round there are 204 tr on round and piece measures approx. 23 cm from centre and outwards. Fasten off.
Then work only over 68 tr in each side - i.e. the 34 tr at the top by neck and the 34 tr at the bottom of back are no longer worked. Continue with explanation below front piece.

SIZE 9/10 YEARS:
ROUND 12:
Work 1 tr in every tr but in every 11th tr work 2 tr = 144 tr.
ROUND 13:
Work 1 tr in every tr but in every 12th tr work 2 tr = 156 tr.
ROUND 14:
Work 1 tr in each of the first 38 tr (= up towards neck), work 25 loose ch, skip the next 23 tr (= armhole), then work 1 tr in each of the next 72 tr (= down towards back), work 25 loose ch, skip the next 23 tr (= armhole) and fasten with 1 sl st in first tr at beg of round.
ROUND 15:
Work 1 tr in each of the first 38 tr but inc 3 tr evenly (= 41 tr), then work 25 tr in ch-row over armhole, work 1 tr in each of the next 72 tr but inc 3 tr evenly (= 75 tr), work 25 tr in ch-row over armhole, and fasten with 1 sl st in first tr at beg of round = 166 tr.
ROUND 16 to 21:
Continue with tr – at the same time inc 10 tr evenly on every round. After 21st round there are 226 tr on round and piece measures approx. 26 cm from centre and outwards. Fasten off.
Then work only over 74 tr in each side - i.e. the 39 tr at the top by neck and the 39 tr at the bottom of back are no longer worked. Continue with explanation below front piece.

SIZE 11/12 YEARS:
ROUND 12:
Work 1 tr in every tr but in every 11th tr work 2 tr = 144 tr.
ROUND 13:
Work 1 tr in every tr but in every 12th tr work 2 tr = 156 tr.
ROUND 14:
Work 1 tr in every tr but in every 13th tr work 2 tr = 168 tr.
ROUND 15:
Work 1 tr in each of the first 42 tr (= up towards neck), work 27 loose ch, skip the next 25 tr (= armhole), then work 1 tr in each of the next 76 tr (= down towards back), work 27 loose ch, skip the next 25 tr (= armhole) and fasten with 1 sl st in first tr at beg of round.
ROUND 16:
Work 1 tr in each of the first 42 tr but inc 4 tr evenly (= 46 tr), then work 27 tr in ch-row over armhole, work 1 tr in each of the next 76 tr but inc 4 tr evenly (= 80 tr), work 27 tr in ch-row over armhole, and fasten with 1 sl st in first tr at beg of round = 180 tr.
ROUND 17 to 23:
Continue with tr – at the same time inc 10 tr evenly on every round. After 23rd round there are 250 tr on round and piece measures approx. 28 cm from centre and outwards. Fasten off.
Then work only over 83 tr in each side - i.e. the 42 tr at the top by neck and the 42 tr at the bottom of back are no longer worked. Continue with explanation below front piece.

LEFT FRONT PIECE - ALL SIZES:
= 60-68-74-83 tr. Insert 1 marker after 18-20-22-24 sts in from each side (= 24-28-30-35 sts between markers). Then work stripes and tr back and forth while AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 st at each marker on every row (i.e. inc 2 tr on row - inc alternately before and after each marker outwards) until a total of 6-6-8-8 rows have been worked back and forth AT THE SAME TIME work according to DECREASE TIP 1. Fasten off.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work same way as on left front piece over 60-68-74-83 tr in right side.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth from sleeve cap and down - see STRIPES - SLEEVE above.
Work 24-27-28-34 LOOSE ch with 1 strand of colour 3250 + 1 strand of colour 3125.
ROW 1: Turn and work 1 tr in 4th ch from hook (the first 3 ch = 1 tr), then work 1 tr in every ch the entire row = 22-25-26-32 tr. Turn piece.
ROW 2: Work 3 ch + 2 tr in first tr, 1 tr in every tr until last tr and 3 tr in last tr = 26-29-30-36 tr. Turn piece.
ROW 3: Work 3 ch + 1 tr in first tr, 1 tr in every tr until 1 tr remains and 2 tr in last tr. Turn piece.
Work 1-1-2-2 more rows as 3rd row = 30-33-36-42 tr.
NEXT ROW: Work 3 ch + 2 tr in first tr, 1 tr in every tr until last tr and 3 tr in last tr = 34-37-40-46 tr. Turn piece.
Now work 1 tr in every tr until piece measures 7-8-9-10 cm. Continue with tr while AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 tr in each side - SEE DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec every 8th-6th-5th-4th row 2-3-4-6 more times = 28-29-30-32 tr.
Continue with 1 tr in every tr until sleeve measures 38-41-45-48 cm. Fasten off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew sleeve seams edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam.
Work 1 round around the entire body as follows with 2 strands of colour 0100: 1 sl st in first st, * 3 ch, 1 tr in first ch (= 1 picot), skip 1 tr, fasten with 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in first sl st. Sew sleeves in body - make sure that sleeve cap is sewn in at the top of armholes, i.e. where the distance is shortest.
Work an edge around the sleeves the same way as around body but with 2 strands of colour 4088.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 01.10.2014
Under SIZE 11/12 YEARS and ROUND 14 (in every 13th, not in every 12th ):

ROUND 14:
Work 1 tr in every tr but in every 13th tr work 2 tr = 168 tr.

Diagram

diagram measurements
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 24-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (124)

country flag Daria 07.04.2021 - 13:37:

Dzień dobry,\r\nChciałam zrobić ten sweterek dla 4 letniej córki. O ile tył sweterka był dla mnie prosty, o tyle nie wiem jak zabrać sie do szydelkowania przodów. \r\nPrzeczytałam wszystkie komentarze do tego wzoru w j.polskim i angielskim. Niestety nadal nie rozumiem. Jak mam dodawać słupki przy markerach i jednocześnie kontynuować zamykanie oczek? Proszę o pomoc, jakieś łatwiejsze \"łopatologiczne\" wytłumaczenie.

user icon DROPS Design 08.04.2021 kl. 17:02:

Witaj Dario, na każdym przodzie będziesz dodawać po 1 sł w miejscu 2 markerów (2 dodane sł w rzędzie)> dzięki temu przód będzie się lekko rozszerzał. Jednocześnie zamykasz po 1 słupku na końcach wg wskazówki ZAMYKANIE OCZEK 1, aby brzegi były lekko zaokrąglone. Powodzenia!

country flag Patricia Ann Anderson 10.03.2021 - 23:19:

Can you please give full instruction on first 2 rows of the fronts. I don't understand how you can Inc and Dec at both ends??

user icon DROPS Design 11.03.2021 kl. 08:32:

Dear Mrs Anderson, insert 2 markers as stated and work now over 60-68-74-83 sts for the front piece increasing 1 stitch at each marker on every row at the same time decrease as explained under DECREASE TIP-1: work trebles increasing 2 sts until 3 sts remain, work then: *1 htr, 1 dc, 1 sl st, turn, skip sl st, work 1 sl st, 1 dc, 1 htr, continue with tr increasing 1 st at both markers until 3 sts remain*, repeat now from *. You will decrease on each side to make the rounded edge for the front piece. Happy crocheting!

country flag Patricia 10.03.2021 - 19:15:

I'm sorry but I'm finding your pattern very confusing, not clear what you do in each row especially for the two fronts 😩🤪🤪

country flag Becky Wood 03.03.2021 - 06:35:

The way you wrote this pattern is no help. I have crocheted since I was 9 years old. I got to round 11 and then you say just increase as necessary. Well, if you are looking for a pattern, you want instructions! Not just do what you think. Very disappointed. Going to have to pull out the yarn for about 3 or 4 hours of work and start over with a GOOD pattern.

user icon DROPS Design 03.03.2021 kl. 07:19:

Dear Mrs Wood, The DROPS patterns are knitted and crocheted by thousands and thousands of people  around the world. We understand however that in certain countries, with different knitting/crochet traditions than Scandinavia, our patterns might be written in a way that differs from what some are used to. But of course we want everyone to understand our patterns, so that’s why we have created an extensive library of tutorial videos as well as step by step lessons that explain how to follow the techniques we use and how to read the diagrams in our patterns. Give them a try!

country flag Hanneke Peeters 23.01.2021 - 13:37:

Hello I just started with the sleeves. I crocheted 34 loose (12 years) and went on following the pattern. But of I fold it to close the sleeve, it is smaller than the arm hole. Do I need to follow the pattern for the sleeves twice to make one sleeve? Thank you for your reply. Kind regards Hanneke

user icon DROPS Design 24.01.2021 kl. 11:36:

Dag Hanneke,

The 34 loose stitches are just for top of the cap of the sleeve. When you continue crocheting end increase on both sides like described in pattern, you will see the shaping of the sleeve cap until the axil.

country flag Hanneke Peeters 22.01.2021 - 12:54:

Beste Als ik aan de mouwen begin, haak ik 34 losse (12jaar) en ga heen en weer. Hoe lang moeten deze 34 losse samen zijn? Moet dit even lang zijn als de volledig omtrek van een armsgat? Alvast bedankt voor uw antwoord

user icon DROPS Design 23.01.2021 kl. 11:35:

Dag Hanneke,

Nee, die 34 lossen zijn de bovenkant van de mouwkop, Op de volgende toeren ontstaat een afronding aan de zijkanten van de mouwkop door het meerderen.

country flag Anna Dahlgren 16.01.2021 - 01:45:

Jag förstår inte hur jag ska virka ärmarna på Princess Petal. Man ska virka från ärmbågen och neråt... Men om jag börjar längst upp och virkar nerår blir det ju bara halva ärmen. Vart ska jag börja ärmen. Ska jag dela dom 25 maskorna och börja 13 maskor innan ärmbågen? Finns det någon video?

user icon DROPS Design 25.01.2021 kl. 14:37:

Hei Anna. Du skal hekle ermene for seg selv, frem og tilbake, de skal monteres på bolen til slutt. Om du hekler 6/8 år skal du hekle 1. til 3. rad slik det står i oppskriften, deretter hekles det 1 stav i hver stav, samtidig som det felles masker til ermet måler 41 cm. Når ermene sys fast til bolen pass på at ermtoppen blir sydd til øverst i ermhullene på bolen. mvh DROPS design

country flag Hanneke Peeters 29.12.2020 - 17:10:

Hello I would like to know if I understand it right. Doe I need to use 2 threads together at the same time? So I use 2 balls of yarn at the same time? Thank you!

user icon DROPS Design 30.12.2020 kl. 08:13:

Hi Hanneke, Yes, the whole garment is worked with 2 strands. You can either use 2 balls or use the strand from the inside and the outside of the same ball. It is a good idea to stagger the strand changes, when you reach the end of a ball, so you are not changing both strands in the same place. Happy knitting!

country flag Suny 03.10.2020 - 08:39:

Hey, könnte man die Ärmel auch einfach direkt an die Armlöcher häkeln? Ich tue mich immer schwer mit dem annähen von Ärmeln und denke das müsste doch eigentlich auch gehen oder?

user icon DROPS Design 05.10.2020 kl. 12:12:

Liebe Suny, also bei diesem Modell werden die Ärmel von oben nach unten gehäkelt aber mit Armkugel, dh zuerst wird es zugenomen, und nach Armkugel wird es abgenommnen, Es kann hier einfacher sein um die Ärmel separat zu häkeln und sie anzunähen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

country flag Lynn 13.11.2019 - 18:43:

I’m having trouble starting the left and right front part, can you tell me how to do it

user icon DROPS Design 14.11.2019 kl. 09:34:

Dear Lynn, you can fold the circle double so that both armholes are one over each other, then mark the middle of top and bottom, then count the number of sts on top and insert a marker 15-17-19 (or 20) on either side of this fold so that there are 30-37-39 sts on the middle top + on the middle bottom of circle. you will then work each front piece separately over the 68-74-83 sts on each side, between markers. Happy crocheting!

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