DROPS / 145 / 23

Stormcloud by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket with short rows and shawl collar in "Fabel". Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no fa-222
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL -XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 80-88-96-108-116-132 cm /
31½"-34½"-37 3/4"-42½"-45 3/4"-52"
Full length: 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm /
27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''-30¾''-31½

Materials: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
500-550-600-650-700-750 g color no 604, ocean view
50 g for all sizes in color no 101, beige

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED AND CIRCULAR NEEDLES size 3 mm / US 2.5 (80 cm / 32'') - or size needed get 24 sts x 32 rows in stockinette st and 24 sts x 48 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3 mm / C - for edge.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTONS w/HOLES, NO 521: 2 pieces

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.20 $ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

GARTER ST (in the round on circular needle):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

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BACK PIECE:
Worked back and forth from side to side on circular needle to make room for all the sts.
Cast on 168-172-178-182-188-192 sts on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with ocean view. Insert 1 marker in the piece when 46-48-50-52-54-56 sts remain on row (seen from RS). This marker shows where the sleeve is sewn in the garment.
Work 6 ridges in GARTER ST – see explanation above! Then work short rows as follows, beg from RS (always work the first 3 sts in garter st):
* Work 3 sts in garter st, work in stockinette st over the next 32 sts, turn and work return row.
3 sts in garter st, work in stockinette st over the next 67 sts, turn and work return row.
3 sts in garter st, work in stockinette st over the next 102 sts, turn and work return row.
3 sts in garter st, work in stockinette st over the next 67 sts, turn and work return row.
3 sts in garter st, work in stockinette st over the next 32 sts, turn and work return row,
8 rows in garter st back and forth over all sts *, repeat from *-*, 1 repetition = 8 rows at the top, 18 rows at the bottom.
REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
Continue in garter st with short rows in stockinette st until piece measures 15-17-18-21-22-26 cm / 6"-6 3/4"-7"-8 1/4"-8 3/4"-10 1/4", measured at the shortest.
On next row from WS bind off the first 5 sts for neck = 163-167-173-177-183-187 sts.
Continue in garter st with short rows in stockinette st.
When piece measures 25-27-30-33-36-40 cm / 9 3/4"-10 5/8"-11 3/4"-13"-14 1/4"-15 3/4" (10-10-12-12-14-14 cm / 4"-4"-4 3/4"-4 3/4"-5½"-5½" from where neck was bound off), cast on 5 new sts at the end of next row from RS = 168-172-178-182-188-192 sts.
Continue as before.
When piece measures 40-44-48-54-58-66 cm / 15 3/4"-17 1/4"-19"-21 1/4"-22 3/4"-26" (the same no of ridges has been worked before and after bound off for neck - make sure to finish after one whole repetition + 2 ridges over all sts), insert a marker in piece when 46-48-50-52-54-56-58 sts remain on row (seen from RS). This marker shows where the sleeve is sewn in the garment.
Bind off sts on next row.


RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Worked from side to side on circular needle to make room for all the sts. Beg in the side and work towards mid front.
Cast on 168-172-178-182-188-192 sts on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with ocean view. Insert 1 marker in the piece when 46-48-50-52-54-56 sts remain on row (seen from RS). This marker shows where the sleeve is sewn in the garment.
Work 6 ridges in GARTER ST – see explanation above! Then work short rows as follows, beg from RS (always work the first 3 sts in garter st):
* Work 3 sts in garter st, work in stockinette st over the next 32 sts, turn and work return row.
3 sts in garter st, work in stockinette st over the next 67 sts, turn and work return row.
3 sts in garter st, work in stockinette st over the next 102 sts, turn and work return row.
3 sts in garter st, work in stockinette st over the next 67 sts, turn and work return row.
3 sts in garter st, work in stockinette st over the next 32 sts, turn and work return row,
8 rows in garter st back and forth over all sts *, repeat from *-*, 1 repetition = 8 rows at the top, 18 rows at the bottom.
Continue in garter st with short rows in stockinette st until piece measures 15-17-18-21-22-26 cm / 6"-6 3/4"-7"-8 1/4"-8 3/4"-10 1/4", measured at the shortest.
At the end of next row from RS, cast on 20-20-22-22-24-24 new sts for collar = 188-192-200-204-212-216 sts.
Continue in garter st with short rows in stockinette st.
When piece measures 20-22-24-27-29-33 cm / 8"-8 3/4"-9½"-10 5/8"-11 3/8"-13" (5-5-6-6-7-7 cm / 2''-2''-2 3/8''-2 3/8''-2 3/4''-2 3/4'' from where new sts were cast on – stop just before the 8 rows K in a repetition), work in garter st over all sts for 1 cm / 3/8''.
Now dec for buttonholes as follows - from RS: Work 82-84-88-92-96-100 sts, K 2 tog, 1 YO, work 16 sts, K 2 tog, 1 YO.
Work the rest of row. Continue to work in garter st for 3 cm / 1 1/8'' in total. Bind off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right front piece but reversed. Beg the short rows from WS. Do not dec for buttonholes.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 56-58-60-62-64-66 sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 with beige.
Work in GARTER ST for 4 cm / 1½'' - see explanation above. Change to ocean view. Then work in stockinette st. Insert 1 marker at the beg of round.
When piece measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'', inc 1 st on each side of marker, repeat inc every 2½-2-2-2-1½-1½ cm / 7/8"-3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-½"-½" 17-18-19-20-21-22 more times (18-19-20-21-22-23 inc in total) = 92-96-100-104-108-112 sts.
When piece measures 54-53-52-50-49-46 cm / 21 1/4"-21"-20½"-19 3/4"-19 1/4"-18" (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders), bind off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew side seams from the marker and down. Sew in sleeves. Sew the collar tog mid back and sew it to the neckline. Sew the buttons on to left front piece.

CROCHET EDGE:
Work an edge around the opening at the front on jacket, beg at the bottom of right front piece, work around the collar and down along left front piece.
Work with beige on hook size 3 mm / C as follows: 1 sc, * ch 3, 1 dc in 1st ch, skip approx. 1 cm / ½'', 1 sc *, repeat from *-*. Fasten off.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 145-23) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (95)

Vicki Parrish 05.03.2020 - 02:41:

I am confused by the instructions for the short rows. On the first piece I cast on the required number of stitches but after I do the first set of short rows it says to knit in stockinette over all the stitches. However not all the stitches that were cast on are used in the short rows so there are some left over. How can I knit over ALL the stitches unless it only means the stitches in the short rows? Then what happens to the extra stitches?

DROPS Design 05.03.2020 kl. 10:25:

Dear Mrs Parrish, when you work the short rows, you always work the first 3 sts from RS in garter stitch and the next 32-102 sts (depending on the row - the remaining sts on left needle are unworked) in stocking stitch (= K from RS, P from WS), and finish the repeat of the short rows with 8 rows garter stitch on all stitches (=4 ridges on all stitches). You have now worked 8 rows on the top of piece (towards shoulder) and 18 rows on the bottom of piece (bottom edge). Happy knitting!

Judith 03.02.2019 - 14:00:

I’m confused as to “work 3 stitches in garter (which I assume means knit) work in stockinette over the next 32 (does this mean purl), turn and work return row (do I knit the return?)

DROPS Design 04.02.2019 kl. 12:31:

Dear Judith, on RS rows you will knit the sts in garter stitch and the sts in stocking stitch, but from WS you will then purl the sts in stocking st andn K the stitch in garter st. On row 1, work; K3, K32 (= stocking st), then turn and work row back = P32, K3. Happy knitting!

Minni 17.05.2017 - 17:13:

Hi, my problem is the needle sizing. To knit 24 sts for 10 cm I need to use needles size 5 (and that way I'll knit 25sts which is the closest fit). This means fairly loose knitting. Will this affect badly the completed work? Usually I need to swapt for needles one size larger, but I don't understand why I now need two sizes larger. I'm hesitant to start.

DROPS Design 18.05.2017 kl. 08:34:

Dear Minni, 24 sts for 10 cm is a quite usual tension for Fabel. You can work your swatch with different needle size, wash and block them then find out the best needle size. Happy knitting!

Mieke Lubbers 20.09.2016 - 12:04:

Drops 145-23 Begin ik het linker voorpand middenvoor te breien of vanaf de zijnaad?

DROPS Design 20.09.2016 kl. 13:10:

Deze vraag is twee keer gesteld. U kunt het antwoord hieronder vinden.

M.Lubbers-Ciggaar 20.09.2016 - 12:02:

Drops 145-23 Begin ik het linker voorpand vanaf middenvoor of vanaf de zijnaad?

DROPS Design 20.09.2016 kl. 13:09:

U begint aan de zijkant, net als bij het rechtervoorpand. Verder volgt u alle aanwijzingen voor het rechtervoorpand en zoals aangegeven staat, begint u de verkorte toeren aan de verkeerde kant.

Ria Schoonhoven-van Der Steen 06.04.2015 - 13:54:

Ik heb patroon 145-33 gemaakt. Nu blijkt dat - door het gewicht van het materiaal - het vest langer is (20 cm) dan het oorspronkelijke patroon. Het vest is dwars gebreid. Is er dan ook een manier om het korter te maken?? Ik hoor graag van U. Hartelijke groet, Ria

DROPS Design 06.04.2015 kl. 15:23:

Maak altijd eerst een proeflapje en was dit ook voor het breien van een heel vest. Een lapje kan er eerst behoorlijk vast uitzien, maar na het wassen een stuk losser worden. Pas dan de naaldgrootte aan.

Miekelien 03.02.2015 - 06:24:

Wanneer met je Ocean Blue gebruiken en wanneer beige?

DROPS Design 03.02.2015 kl. 11:58:

Hoi Miekelien. Je gebruikt alleen de beige voor het begin van de mouwen en de gehaakte rand. De rest wordt alleen met de Ocean Blue gebreid. In deze kleur zit ook stukken beige. Veel breiplezier.

Mareike 15.01.2015 - 10:42:

Hallo liebes Drops-Team! Ich habe noch keine Antwort auf meine Frage vom 03.01.15 bekommen ! Ich muß bald neue Wolle bestellen , weil "burgunder" nicht reicht. Ich möchte dann die andere Farbe mitbestellen. Es eilt! Danke!

DROPS Design 15.01.2015 kl. 15:54:

Liebe Mareike, die Farbwahl ist letztendlich immer Geschmackssache. Sie könnten Baby Merino Nr. 27 oder Alpaca Nr. 3720 ausprobieren.

Mareike 03.01.2015 - 11:54:

Hallo, ich stricke mir die Jacke gerade in der Farbe "burgunder" und habe mir für den Häkelrand die Farbe "cerise" bestellt. Das ist viel zu grell, welche Farbe kann ich nehmen? Muß nicht "Fabel" sein. Am besten wäre der helle Ton, der in "burgunder" vorkommt! Auf dem Bildschirm sind die Farben verfälscht.

Sabine VR 29.09.2014 - 14:04:

Hallo, ich habe mir diese Jacke in der Farbe "forest" (Garn: Fabel) gestrickt. Sie ist sehr angenehm, beschwingt, individuell und ungewöhnlich. Auf diese Jacke bin ich schon mehrfach angesprochen worden.

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