Malcolm by DROPS Design

Knitted doll with overall and beanie in DROPS Paris.

Tags: toys,
DROPS design: Pattern no W-019-bn
Yarn group C
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Measurements:
Height: approx. 30 cm / 11 3/4''

Materials: DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
100 g color no 61, light peach
50 g color no 30, denim blue
50 g color no 38, raspberry
50 g color no 29, light ice blue
50 g color no 39, pistachio
Some left-over yarn color no 44, brown
Some left-over yarn color no 33, medium pink

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 3.5 mm / US 4 - or size needed to get 20 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

Accessories: Some poly stuffing for filling

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Cotton
from 1.80 $ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 2.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 1.80 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 10.80$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by working 2 sts in the next st as follows: Work in front and back loop of same st.

DECREASE TIP 1:
Dec 1 st by K 2 sts tog.

DECREASE TIP 2:
Dec 1 st on each side of marker as follows: Work until 2 sts remain before marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, (marker), K tog the next 2 sts.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.
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BOY DOLL:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Legs and arms are worked separately, then work all parts tog.

FOOT AND LEG:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles from bottom up. Cast on 4 sts with light peach on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4.
ROUND 1: Inc 1 st in every st - READ INCREASE TIP = 8 sts. NOTE: Insert a marker at beg of round (= mid back of foot) and move the marker upwards when working.
ROUND 2: Inc 1 st in every st = 16 sts.
ROUND 3: Inc 1 st in 1st and last st on round = 18 sts.
ROUND 4-8: K all sts.
ROUND 9: K 5, dec 4 sts over the next 8 sts - READ DECREASE TIP 1 (= dec on front part of foot), K 5 = 14 sts.
K over all sts for 27 more rounds, leg measures approx. 10 cm / 4''. Then work pants as follows: Switch to light ice blue and K 1 round. Work next round as follows: K 10, bind off the next 2 sts, K 2 = 12 sts remain. Slip all sts on a stitch holder and fill the leg with some poly stuffing. Put piece aside.
Cast on and work another foot and leg the same way but work the last round in light ice blue as follows: K 2, bind off the next 2 sts, K 10 = 12 sts remain. Slip all sts on a stitch holder and fill the leg with some poly stuffing. Put piece aside.

HAND AND ARM:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 4 sts with light peach on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4.
ROUND 1: Inc 1 st in every st = 8 sts. NOTE: Insert a marker at beg of round (= mid back of hand) and move the marker upwards when working.
ROUND 2: Inc 1 st in every st = 16 sts.
ROUND 3-7: K all sts.
ROUND 8: K 4, dec 4 sts over the next 8 sts - READ DECREASE TIP 1 (= dec on front part of hand), K 4 = 12 sts.
K over all sts for 21 more rounds. Then bind off on next round as follows: K 8, bind off the next 2 sts, K 2 = 10 sts remain. Slip all sts on a stitch holder and fill the hand and arm with some poly stuffing. Put piece aside.
Cast on and work another hand and arm the same way but work the last round as follows: K 2, bind off the next 2 sts, K 8 = 10 sts remain. Slip all sts on a stitch holder and fill the hand and arm with some poly stuffing. Put piece aside.

BODY:
= 12 sts from each leg. Slip sts from legs back on double pointed needles and work them tog with dec towards each other with light ice blue = 24 sts on round. NOTE: Round beg and ends on the back. Then work as follows:
ROUND 1: * 2 sts, inc 1 st in next st *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 32 sts (8 inc sts on round).
ROUND 2 (and then on every even numbered round): K all sts.
ROUND 3: * 3 sts, inc 1 st in next st *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 40 sts.
ROUND 5: * 4 sts, inc 1 st in next st *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 48 sts.
ROUND 6-12: K all sts.
ROUND 13 and 14: P all sts.
On next round switch to light peach and then K all sts for 12 rounds. NOTE: Insert a marker in the middle of each side of body, move the markers upwards when working. * Work next round as follows: Dec 1 st - READ DECREASE TIP 2 - on each side of every marker (= 4 dec sts on round), K 1 round *. Repeat from *-* 1 more time = 40 sts. On next round, bind off as follows: bind off 1 st on each side of every marker, work until 1st bind off = 36 sts remain. Do not cut the thread.

SHOULDER AND HEAD:
= 18 sts from back of body, 18 sts from front of body and 10 sts from each arm. Slip sts from arms back on double pointed needles. NOTE: Insert a marker in the middle of each arm (after 5 sts = middle of the side), move the markers upwards when working. Then work arms and body tog with armhole bind offs towards each other = 56 sts on round. K 1 round.
* On next round dec for shoulder as follows: Dec 2 sts - READ DECREASE TIP 2 - on each side of every marker (= 8 dec sts on round), K 1 round *. Repeat from *-* a total of 4 times = 24 sts remain on round.
Then inc for head as follows: * K 2, inc 1 st in next st *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 32 sts, K 1 round. Work next round as follows: * K 3, inc 1 st in next st *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 40 sts. Continue to K all sts for 16 more rounds. Then bind off as follows:
ROUND 1: * K 3, dec 1 st - READ DECREASE TIP 1 *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 32 sts.
ROUND 2 (and then on every even numbered round): K all sts.
ROUND 3: * K 2, dec 1 st *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 24 sts.
ROUND 5: * K 1, dec 1 st *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 16 sts. Fill the body, shoulder and head with some poly stuffing.
ROUND 7: K2 tog around = 8 sts, cut the thread and pull thread through the 8 sts, tighten tog and fasten.

ASSEMBLY:
Embroider eyes at the front of head with brown and mouth with medium pink. Sew tog the openings under the arms and between the legs.

JUMPER:
Worked first in the round and then back and forth on double pointed needles. Cast on 50 sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 with raspberry.
ROUND 1: P all sts.
ROUND 2-7: K all sts. NOTE: Insert a marker at beg of round and a marker after 25 sts (= middle of each side), move the markers upwards when working.
ROUND 8: K all sts but dec 1 st - READ DECREASE TIP 2 - on each side of every marker = 46 sts (4 dec sts on round).
ROUND 9-13: K all sts.
ROUND 14: K all sts but dec 1 st on each side of every marker = 42 sts.
ROUND 15-19: K all sts.
Now divide the piece at the markers and finish each part separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 21 sts. Then continue to work back and forth on needle. Cast on 5 sts at beg of the first 2 rows = 31 sts (1st row = RS). Continue in stockinette st but work the outermost 2 sts in each side in GARTER ST - read explanation above. When 7 rows have been worked, work next row from WS as follows: K 2, P 8, K the next 11 sts - AT THE SAME TIME bind off the middle 7 sts, finish with P 8 and K 2 = 2 sts in garter st in each side of neck dec in the middle. NOTE: Work the first and last 2 sts on row in garter st until finish measurements.
Then finish each shoulder separately as follows: On next row dec 1 st (K 2 tog) inside the 2 sts in garter st from the neck = 11 sts remain on shoulder, work 1 more row (= 10 rows worked on back piece), bind off all sts.

FRONT PIECE:
= 21 sts. Then cast on and work back and forth as on back piece. When 5 rows have been worked, work next row from WS as follows:
K 2, P 9, K the next 9 sts - AT THE SAME TIME bind off the middle 5 sts, finish with P 9 and K 2 = 2 sts in garter st in each side of neck dec in the middle. NOTE: Work the first and last 2 sts on row in garter st until finish measurements.
Then finish each shoulder separately as follows: On the next 2 rows dec 1 st inside the 2 sts in garter st from the neck = 11 sts remain on shoulder, work 2 more rows (= 10 rows worked on front piece in total), bind off all sts.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder and sleeve seams in outer loop of edge sts.

OVERALL:
First work 2 legs which are then worked on to overall afterwards.

LEG:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 20 sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 with denim blue. P 2 rounds, then K 5 rounds. On next round, work as follows: bind off the first 2 sts, K the remaining sts = 18 sts remain. Slip all sts on a stitch holder and put piece aside. Cast on and work another leg the same way = 18 sts remain on row, cut the thread.

BODY:
Slip sts from 1st leg back on needle with bind offs towards each other, work in the round over all sts = 36 sts. NOTE: Round beg and ends mid back. Then work as follows:
ROUND 1: * K 5, inc 1 st in next st *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 42 sts (6 inc sts on round).
ROUND 2 (and then on every even numbered round): K all sts.
ROUND 3: * K 6, inc 1 st in next st *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 48 sts.
ROUND 5: * K 11, inc 1 st in next st *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 52 sts.
ROUND 6-20: K all sts.
ROUND 21: P all sts while at the same time casting/binding off.

Then continue to work front piece back and forth on double pointed needles as follows: Insert a marker in the middle of each side = 26 sts between each marker. Then pick up from RS in front loop of the middle 16 sts between markers (= 5 sts remain until marker in each side) = 16 sts remain on needle. Work in stockinette st but work the outermost 2 sts in each side in garter st. When a total of 11 rows have been worked, K last row from WS - AT THE SAME TIME bind off until 3 sts remain on row. Then K these 3 sts for strap, bind off when strap measures approx. 10 cm / 4'' (or till the length that fits the doll).
Pick up from RS 3 sts in front loop of the last 3 sts in the other side of front piece, K these 3 sts, bind off when strap measures approx. 10 cm / 4''. Sew strap to the back of overall.

HEART:
Work a heart back and forth in GARTER ST - read explanation above - as follows: Cast on 1 st on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 with pistachio.
Row 1: Work 2 sts in this st = 2 sts. NOTE: Work tightly so that the heart gets a nice shape.
Row 2: Inc 1 st in every st = 4 sts.
Row 3: K all sts.
Row 4: K all sts but inc 1 st in 1st st and inc 1 st in last st on row = 6 sts.
Row 5: K all sts.
Row 6: K all sts but inc 1 st in 1st st and inc 1 st in last st on row = 8 sts.
Row 7-10: K all sts.
Work next row as follows: K the first 4 sts tog 2 by 2 = 2 sts on row, turn and bind off these 2 sts on next row. Repeat dec over the remaining 4 sts, cut and fasten the thread. Sew heart to the front of overall.

HAT:
Worked in the round in stockinette st. Cast on 42 sts with light ice blue on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4, K 2 rounds. Insert a marker at beg of round and move the marker upwards when working. Then work as follows: * 1 round pistachio, 1 round light ice blue *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times. Then work in light ice blue until finished measurements. K 2 more rounds and then dec as follows:
ROUND 1: * Work 5 sts, dec 1 st - READ DECREASE TIP above *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 36 sts (= 6 dec sts).
ROUND 2 (and then on every even numbered round): K all sts.
ROUND 3: Work 4 sts, dec 1 st *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 30 sts.
ROUND 5: Work 3 sts, dec 1 st *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 24 sts.
ROUND 7: Work 2 sts, dec 1 st *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 18 sts.
ROUND 9: K2 tog around = 9 sts, cut the thread. Pull the thread through the 9 sts, tighten tog and fasten.

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Girl doll - see pattern SmåDrops 23-25
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Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 23-24) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (8)

Lovisa 17.06.2016 - 18:37:

Hej! Lägger jag upp 4m totalt när jag stickar ben/arm, eller är det 4m per strumpsticka?

DROPS Design 21.06.2016 kl. 11:12:

Hej. 4 m totalt. Lycka till!

ABETE Mara 03.06.2016 - 09:02:

Bonjour Pour les jambes, on atteint les 10 cm de hauteur avec 27 rangs DEPUIS LE DEBUT et non pas à partir du 10 ° rang comme indiqué dans les explications !

DROPS Design 15.09.2016 kl. 15:11:

Bonjour Mme Abete, c'est effectivement la jambe qui mesure 10 cm, la correction a été faite, merci. Bon tricot!

Sengier 07.12.2014 - 10:50:

Bonjour, Je ne comprends pas comment raccorder les jambes au corps de la poupée garçon. Et à quoi sert d'avoir fait un dernier tour de jambe en bleu si on reprend en rose ???

DROPS Design 07.12.2014 kl. 13:36:

Bonjour Mme Sengier, on continue bien les jambes en bleu (la correction a été faite dans le texte) jusqu'au tour 14 avant de reprendre ensuite le fil pêche clair. Merci, bon tricot!

Sara Ljunglöf 19.05.2014 - 11:55:

När jag ska börja på kroppen så står det "sticka ihop dem (benen) med de avm m mot varandra med ljusblå" vad innebär det? Ska jag sticka ihop dom avmaskade maskorna på vardera ben så dom sitter ihop? Hoppas ni förstår vad jag menar.

DROPS Design 21.05.2014 kl. 17:30:

Hej Sara. Ja, du skal nu strikke benene ind paa 1 pind, saa de sidder sammer og du kan strikke kroppen. Du har 12 m paa hvert ben og de skal sidde sammen paa pinden saa de afmaskade maskorna paa hvert ben sidder mod hinanden.

G'Ladys 05.03.2013 - 10:05:

C'est mon premier tricot! ça m'a pris un peu de temps, mais j'y suis arrivée! et le résultat est tout à fait correct! ma fille me réclame désormais le modèle fille ;)

Irene 18.02.2013 - 14:07:

On the jumper...cast on 50 stitches to dp needles...but that would not be in even increments. how do you cast on the 50 sts. so they are equal on each needle?

DROPS Design 18.02.2013 kl. 17:44:

Dear Irene, for the jumber, 50 is not divisible by 3 nor 4, so that with 3 needles, you will have eg 16+16+18 and with 4 needles eg 12+12+13+13. Happy knitting!

Franziska Wille 17.02.2013 - 18:04:

Vielen Dank für die Rückmeldung, Dann probiere ich das gleich mal aus ;)

Franziska Wille 12.02.2013 - 20:37:

Liebes Team, ich moechte gern die Puppen Malcom stricken und bin bis zum Pulli gekommen. Leider haenge ich nun an folgender aussage fest: jetzt die 2 Maschen gegen den Halsausschnittin krausrippe stricken. Bei der naechsten R. Gegen den Halsausschnitt nach den 2 Maschen krausrippe 1 0asche abnehmen.... Usw. Was ist damit gemeint? Was mache ich mit den 7 abgemaschten maschen? Was ist mit ,,gegen den halsausschnitt gemeint Ihr wuerdet mir sehr helfen mit einer Antwort. LIEBEN DANK. FRANZI

DROPS Design 14.02.2013 kl. 09:50:

Liebe Franzi, die 7 abgeketteten Maschen sind die M für den Halsausschnitt. An der Kante dazu („gegen den Halsausschnitt“) sind 2 re (bzw. Krausrippe), neben diesen M wird die Abnahme für die Halsrundung gemacht.

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