Dalie Delight by DROPS Design
Crochet DROPS jacket worked in a circle in ”Andes”. Size: XS - XXXL.
Yarn group E
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Size: XS/S - M/L - XL/XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ANDES from Garnstudio
400-500-600-700 g color no 4300, old pink
DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 9 mm / M/13 – or size needed to get 10 dc in width x 5 rows vertically = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
When working ch-spaces, approx. 2.5 spaces in width x 5 spaces vertically = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Andes 65% Wool, 35% Alpaca |
from 7.85 $ /100g | Order | ||||||||
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DROPS Needles & Hooks | ||||||||||
NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Replace first dc on every dc round with ch 3.
Finish every dc round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
Finish every round starting with 3 ch and a 1 sc in first ch-space with 1 sl st in 1st sc from beg of round.
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BODY:
Worked in the round in a circle from mid back.
Ch 4 with Andes on hook size 9 mm / M/13. Form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. READ CROCHET TIP!
ALL SIZES:
ROUND 1:
* 1 dc in ch-ring, ch 2 *, repeat from *-* 5 more times (= 6 dc in total with 2 ch between each).
ROUND 2:
3 dc in first dc, ch 2, * 3 dc in next dc, ch 2 *, repeat from *-* the entire round (= 18 dc in total with 2 ch between every 3rd dc).
ROUND 3:
* 2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc, ch 2 *, repeat from *-* the entire round (= 30 dc in total with 2 ch between every 5th dc).
ROUND 4:
* 2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, 2 dc in next dc, ch 2 *, repeat from *-* the entire round (= 42 dc in total with 2 ch between every 7th dc).
ROUND 5:
* 2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in each of the next 5 dc, 2 dc in next dc, ch 2 *, repeat from *-* the entire round (= 54 dc in total with 2 ch between every 9th dc).
SIZE XS/S and M/L:
ROUND 6:
1 sl st in first dc, * 1 dc in each of the next 7 dc, ch 4, 1 sc in ch-space from previous round, ch 4, skip 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round.
ROUND 7:
1 sl st in first dc, * 1 dc in each of the next 5 dc, ch 4, 1 sc in first ch-space, ch 5, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 4, skip 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round.
ROUND 8:
1 sl st in first dc, * 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, ch 4, 1 sc in first ch-space, ch 5, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 5, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 4, skip 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round.
ROUND 9:
1 sl st in first dc, * 1 dc in next dc, ch 4, 1 sc in first ch-space, ch 5, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 5, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 5, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 4, skip 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 30 ch-spaces.
Piece measures approx. 18 cm / 7'' from the middle and out.
SIZE XL/XXL and XXXL:
ROUND 6:
* 2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in each of the next 7 dc, 2 dc in next dc, ch 2 *, repeat from *-* the entire round (= 66 dc in total with 2 ch between every 11th dc).
ROUND 7:
1 sl st in first dc, * 1 dc in each of the next 9 dc, ch 4, 1 sc in ch-space from previous round, ch 4, skip 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round.
ROUND 8:
1 sl st in first dc, * 1 dc in each of the next 7 dc, ch 4, 1 sc in first ch-space, ch 5, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 4, skip 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round.
ROUND 9:
1 sl st in first dc, * 1 dc in each of the next 5 dc, ch 4, 1 sc in first ch-space, ch 5, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 5, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 4, skip 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round.
ROUND 10:
1 sl st in first dc, * 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, ch 4, 1 sc in first ch-space, ch 5, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 5, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 5, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 4, skip 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round.
ROUND 11:
1 sl st in first dc, * 1 dc in next dc, ch 4, 1 sc in first ch-space, ch 5, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 5, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 5, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 5, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 4, skip 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 36 ch-spaces.
Piece measures approx. 22 cm / 8 3/4'' from the middle and out.
SIZE XS/S:
ROUND 10: ch 3, 1 sc in first ch-space, * ch 6, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* 3 more times (= 4 ch-spaces), ch 25, skip 3 ch-spaces (= armhole), 1 sc in next ch-space, repeat from *-* 14 times, ch 25, skip 3 ch-spaces (= armhole), 1 sc in next ch-space, repeat from *-* 4 times but finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round.
ROUND 11: ch 3, 1 sc in first ch-space, * ch 6, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round but over the 25 ch worked over each armhole, work as follows: ch 6, 1 sc in 4th ch, ch 6, skip ch 5, 1 sc in next ch, ch 6, skip ch 5, 1 sc in next ch, ch 6, skip ch 5, 1 sc in next ch, ch 6, 1 sc in next ch-space (= 30 ch-spaces in total on round).
ROUND 12: ch 3, 1 sc in first ch-space, * ch 6, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round – NOTE: But in every 5th ch-space work 1 extra ch-space (= ch 6 + 1 sc) = 36 ch-spaces in total.
ROUND 13: ch 3, 1 sc in first ch-space, *6 ch, 1 sc in next ch-space*, repeat from *-* the entire round.
ROUND 14: Work as 12th round but work 1 extra ch-space in every 6th ch-space = 42 ch-spaces in total.
ROUND 15 and every uneven numbered round: Work as 13th round.
ROUND 16 and every even numbered round: Work as 12th round but with 1 ch-space more between inc every time.
Work until there are 60 ch-spaces in total on round.
SIZE M/L:
ROUND 10: ch 3, 1 sc in first ch-space, * ch 6, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round. NOTE: But in every 5th ch-space work 1 extra ch-space (= ch 6 + 1 sc) = 36 ch-spaces in total.
ROUND 11: ch 3, 1 sc in first ch-space, *6 ch, 1 sc in next ch-space*, repeat from *-* the entire round.
ROUND 12: ch 3, 1 sc in first ch-space, * ch 6, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* 4 more times (= 5 ch-spaces), work 31 ch, skip 4 ch-spaces (= armhole), 1 sc in next ch-space, repeat from *-* 16 times, 31 ch, skip 4 ch-spaces (= armhole), 1 sc in next ch-space, repeat from *-* 5 times but finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round.
ROUND 13: ch 3, 1 sc in first ch-space, * ch 6, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round but over the 31 ch worked over each armhole, work as follows: ch 6, 1 sc in 4th ch, * ch 6, skip ch 5, 1 sc in next ch *, repeat from *-* 3 more times, ch 6, 1 sc in next ch-space (= 36 ch-spaces in total on round).
ROUND 14: ch 3, 1 sc in first ch-space, * ch 6, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round – NOTE: But in every 6th ch-space work 1 extra ch-space (= ch 6 + 1 sc) = 42 ch-spaces in total.
ROUND 15: ch 3, 1 sc in first ch-space, *6 ch, 1 sc in next ch-space*, repeat from *-* the entire round.
ROUND 16: Work as 14th round but work 1 extra ch-space in every 7th ch-space = 48 ch-spaces in total.
ROUND 17 and every uneven numbered round: Work as 15th round.
ROUND 18 and every even numbered round: Work as 14th round but with 1 ch-space more between inc every time.
Work until there are 72 ch-spaces in total on round.
SIZE XL/XXL and XXXL:
ROUND 12: ch 3, 1 sc in first ch-space, * ch 6, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round. NOTE: But in every 6th ch-space work 1 extra ch-space (= ch 6 + 1 sc) = 42 ch-spaces in total.
ROUND 13: ch 3, 1 sc in first ch-space, *6 ch, 1 sc in next ch-space*, repeat from *-* the entire round.
SIZE XL/XXL:
ROUND 14: ch 3, 1 sc in first ch-space, * ch 6, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* 5 more times (= 6 ch-spaces), ch 37, skip 5 ch-spaces (= armhole), 1 sc in next ch-space, repeat from *-* 18 times, ch 37, skip 5 ch-spaces (= armhole), 1 sc in next ch-space, repeat from *-* 6 times but finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round.
ROUND 15: ch 3, 1 sc in first ch-space, * ch 6, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round but over the 37 ch worked over each armhole, work as follows: ch 6, 1 sc in 4th ch, * ch 6, skip ch 5, 1 sc in next ch *, repeat from *-* 4 more times, ch 6, 1 sc in next ch-space (= 42 ch-spaces in total on round).
ROUND 16: ch 3, 1 sc in first ch-space, * ch 6, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round – NOTE: But in every 7th ch-space work 1 extra ch-space (= ch 6 + 1 sc) = 48 ch-spaces in total.
ROUND 17: ch 3, 1 sc in first ch-space, *ch 6, 1 sc in next ch-space*, repeat from *-* the entire round.
ROUND 18: Work as 16th round but work 1 extra ch-space in every 8th ch-space = 54 ch-spaces in total.
ROUND 19 and every uneven numbered round: Work as 17th round.
ROUND 20 and every even numbered round: Work as 16th round but with 1 ch-space more between inc every time.
Work until there are 84 ch-spaces in total on round.
SIZE XXXL:
ROUND 14: ch 3, 1 sc in first ch-space, * ch 6, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round. NOTE: But in every 7th ch-space work 1 extra ch-space (= ch 6 + 1 sc) = 48 ch-spaces in total.
ROUND 15: ch 3, 1 sc in first ch-space, *6 ch, 1 sc in next ch-space*, repeat from *-* the entire round.
ROUND 16: ch 3, 1 sc in first ch-space, * ch 6, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* 6 more times (= 7 ch-spaces), ch 43, skip 6 ch-spaces (= armhole), 1 sc in next ch-space, repeat from *-* 20 times, ch 43, skip 6 ch-spaces (= armhole), 1 sc in next ch-space, repeat from *-* 7 times but finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round.
ROUND 17: ch 3, 1 sc in first ch-space, * ch 6, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round but over the 43 ch worked over each armhole, work as follows: ch 6, 1 sc in 4th ch, * ch 6, skip ch 5, 1 sc in next ch *, repeat from *-* 5 more times, ch 6, 1 sc in next ch-space (= 48 ch-spaces in total on round).
ROUND 18: ch 3, 1 sc in first ch-space, * ch 6, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round – NOTE: But in every 8th ch-space work 1 extra ch-space (= ch 6 + 1 sc) = 54 ch-spaces in total.
ROUND 19: ch 3, 1 sc in first ch-space, ch 6, 1 sc in next ch-space, repeat from *-* the entire round.
ROUND 20: Work as 18th round but work 1 extra ch-space in every 9th ch-space = 60 ch-spaces in total.
ROUND 21 and every uneven numbered round: Work as 19th round.
ROUND 22 and every even numbered round: Work as 20th round but with 1 ch-space more between inc every time.
Work until there are 96 ch-spaces in total on round.
ALL SIZES:
Work last round as follows:
ch 3, 1 sc in first ch-space, * 1 picot (= ch 3, 1 dc in first ch), 1 sc in same ch-space, 1 picot, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round. Cut and fasten the thread.
Piece measures approx. 42-50-58-66 cm / 16½"-19 3/4"-22 3/4"-26" from the middle and out.
SLEEVE:
The sleeves are worked from armholes and down.
Work as follows around one armhole: 1 sc in sc at the bottom of armhole (i.e. in the side with the longest distance between armholes), ch 6, skip the half ch-space and work 1 sc in next whole ch-space, * ch 6, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* 1-2-3-4 more times, ch 6, 1 sc in sc in the other end of armhole, ch 6, skip the half ch-space and work 1 sc in next whole ch-space, repeat from *-* 2-3-4-5 times, finish with 6 ch and 1 sl st in first sc on round = 8-10-12-14 ch-spaces.
Work 4 more rounds with 6 ch in every ch-space and 1 sc in every ch-space – every round beg with ch 3 and 1 sc at the top of first ch-space. Then work 6 rounds with 5 ch in every ch-space.
Then ch 4 in every ch-space (now every round beg with only 2 ch) until sleeve measures 53-51-49-47 cm / 21"-20"-19 1/4"-18½" (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders, hold piece up when measuring so that it stretches to correct measurements).
Work last round as follows: ch 2, 1 sl st at the top of first ch-space, * ch 3, 1 dc in first ch (= 1 picot), 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round.
Work another sleeve the same way in the other side.
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s..
SIZE XL/XXL: ROUND 18: Work as 16th round but work 1 extra ch-space in every 8th ch-space = 54 ch-spaces in total.
Diagram
All measurements in charts are in cm.
Do you need help with this pattern?
Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 141-1) for measurements and calculations.
Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Comments / Questions (184)
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We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
With over 30 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 275 catalogs and 10155 patterns - 10097 of which are translated into English (US/in).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Prosím vás koľko oblúčikom ma rukáv vo veľkosti S? Nejako mi to nevychádza ☹️. Ďakujem
DROPS Design
06.01.2020 kl. 21:18:
Dobrý den, Jano, pro vel. S začínáme s 8 obloučky kolem průramku. Hodně zdaru! HanaPre veľkosť XS/S má teda tento svetrík koľko dokopy kruhových rádov (bez posledného ozdobného) (Posledný bude mať 60oblucikov) Ďakujem
DROPS Design
04.01.2020 kl. 18:08:
Milá Jano, řiďte se uvedeným počtem obloučků, ten je stěžejní. Nápomocná by mohla být také tato video-ukázka . Příjemné háčkování! HanaMerci infiniment pour cette belle création et toutes les autres créations disponibles ❤️Gratuitement c’est valorisant! J’ai débuter en janvier 2018 et depuis je suis experte et passionnée 😉 J adore vraiment votre site 💞 Nancy du Québec 🤪
I'm having a problem with R12. The instructions say: But in every 6th ch-space work 1 extra ch-space (= ch 6 + 1 sc) = 42 ch-spaces in total. Given that I've been right on count with each round so far, this makes no sense to me at all and I'm not ending up with 42 ch spaces. Please help!
DROPS Design
26.06.2019 kl. 06:32:
Dear Debbie, on round 11 (size XL/XXL + XXXL) there are 36 ch-spaces, then on round 12 you will crochet *(6 ch, 1 sc in next ch-space) x 5 then work (6ch, 1 sc in next ch-space, 6 ch, 1 sc in next ch-space)* and repeat from *-* a total of 6 times you will have 5 + 2 ch-spaces in each repeat from *-* = 7 ch-spaces x 6 = 42 ch-spaces. Happy crocheting!Hello, I just completed the Dalie Delight jacket. I used the yarn specified in the pattern instructions. What's the best way to block this piece; wet, spray or steam? Also, How can I lay it flat since the collar overlaps the sleeves? Thank you for your help.
DROPS Design
29.10.2018 kl. 16:16:
Dear Mary, you can block it wet or spray - lay it flat as shown in the measurement chart. Enjoy!Hello, I love this pattern, but I'm having a couple of problems. The collar won't lay down flat. How can I get it to stay in place like the one in the picture? Also, I followed the steps for the sleeves, but since the chain length decreases it makes the sleeve pattern look twisted. Any ideas on how I can fix this? Thank you!
DROPS Design
22.10.2018 kl. 08:33:
Dear Mary, you can block the finished jacket flat to make the collar lay down flat. I'm not sure about the sleeves, a good idea would be to show your Yarn store (even with a picture per mail) so that they can help you. Happy crocheting!I am confused starting sleeves for xs/s. I sm left handed so going in opposite direction but after the first 3 ch 6 and sc I don't understand what or where the sc goes on the "opposite" side of armhole. Very frustrated. Please help.
DROPS Design
22.12.2017 kl. 08:03:
Dear Donna, for sleeve you will crochet ch-spaces around the whole armhole, ie beginning mid under sleeve work the ch-spaces around the armhole, ie in the ch-spaces left unworked for armhole + in the chain worked when you skipped ch-spaces for armhole - make sure you are working from the right side of piece. Happy crocheting!Bonjour J'adore ce modèle, mais je bloque à partir des emmanchures (tour 14-Xl-XXl). Au tour suivant (15), le patron dit de continuer tout le tour, mais du coup, pas d'ouverture pour les bras, puisque les indications suivantes ne disent pas de sauter des arceaux pour laisser l'ouverture. Pouvez-vous m'expliquer comment faire? Merci d'avance.
DROPS Design
13.06.2016 kl. 08:59:
Bonjour FloSteph, au tour 14 (XL/XXL), on forme les emmanchures en sautant 5 arceaux à 2 reprises que l'on remplace par 37 ml (cf partie soulignée ci-dessous): 3 ml, 1 ms dans le 1er arceau, *6 ml, 1 ms dans l'arceau suivant*, répéter de *-* encore 5 fois (= 6 arceaux), 37 ml, sauter 5 arceaux (= emmanchure), 1 ms dans l'arceau suivant, répéter de *-* 18 fois, 37 ml, sauter 5 arceaux (= emmanchure), 1 ms dans l'arceau suivant, répéter de *-* 6 fois mais terminer par 1 mc dans la 1ère ms du début du tour. Bon crochet!Which stitch do I begin to work the sleeve in, where is the half chain loop to skip? Frustrated with badly worded instructions. Always have problems working drops patterns, find basic patterns are over complicated by very bad translation. Worked the m/l size, was massive, started again and worked xs/s and couldn't get it on as armholes tiny. Had to work a mixture of sizes to get something that might be wearable, collar too big and hanging down. Overall shapeless and dissapointing. 👎
DROPS Design
17.05.2016 kl. 10:09:
Dear Mrs Hutton, start sleeve with 1 dc at the bottom of the armhole, then chain 6 and work 1 dc in next ch-space skipping the first ch-space that is smaller than the other one because of armhole. Remember you can get any further personnal assistance contacting your DROPS store. Happy crocheting!Crocheting size M/L, confused with wording of round 18. Does "1 chain loop more between inc every time" mean inc in 6th ch loop then inc in the 7th then in the 8th and so on around until finished row. Or does it mean all row 18 inc's done at every 7th chain, then all row 20 inc's down at every 8th chain and so on? How many chain loops should I have at then end of row 18 and 20. Help very much appreciated. Stephanie
DROPS Design
14.04.2016 kl. 11:42:
Dear Mrs Hutton, see answer below for the inc - you inc 6 ch-loops per inc round, you will then have 54 ch-loops at the end of round 18, 60 ch-loops at the end of round 20 etc... and 72 ch-loops at the end of round 24. Happy crocheting!