DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.85$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24

Rani

Set consist of: Crochet DROPS hat, neck warmer and mittens with fan pattern in ”Merino Extra Fine”.

DROPS 141-25
DROPS design: Pattern no me-056 + me-057
Yarn group B
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HAT:
Size: S/M - M/L
Head circumference: 54/56 - 56/58 cm / 21¼"/22" - 22"/22¾"
Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
100-100 g color no 08, light beige

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4 mm / G/6 – or size needed to get 18 dc x 9 rows = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

NECK WARMER:
Size: S/M - M/L
Height: approx. 23 - 25 cm / 9" - 9 3/4" (including fan edges).
Circumference: approx. 56 - 64 cm / 22" - 25 1/4"
Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
150-150 g color no 08, light beige

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 mm / US 7 – or size needed to get 16 dc = width 10 cm / 4''.

MITTENS:
Size: S/M - M/L
Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
100-100 g color no 08, light beige

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4 mm / G/6 – or size needed to get 18 dc x 9 rows = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.85$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Replace first sc at beg of every sc round with ch 1 and finish every round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round.
Replace first dc at beg of every dc round with ch 3 and finish every round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 sc by working 2 sc in same st.
Inc 1 dc by working 2 dc in same st.

CROCHET 2 DC TOG:
Work 1 dc but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), then work next dc but on last pull through, pull thread through all sts on hook = 1 st dec.

CROCHET 2 SC TOG:
Work 1 sc but wait with last pull through, work next sc and pull thread through all 3 sts on hook.
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HAT:
Worked in the round, top down. READ CROCHET INFO!
Ch 4 on hook size 4 mm / G/6 with Merino Extra Fine and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Work 6 dc in ch-ring.
ROUND 2: Work 2 dc in every dc the entire round = 12 dc.
ROUND 3: Work * 1 dc in first dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 18 dc.
ROUND 4: Work * 1 dc in each of the first 2 dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 24 dc.
Continue inc like this until there are 84-96 dc on round (i.e. on every round work 1 dc more before working 2 dc in same dc so that 6 dc are inc on every round). Then work in the round with 1 dc in every dc (i.e. do not inc) until hat measures approx. 26-28 cm / 10 1/4"-11" from the top and down.
Now work 1 round with sc while AT THE SAME TIME inc 6-4 sc evenly – READ INCREASE TIP = 90-100 sc on round, do not cut the thread, turn piece and work fan edge in the round from WS as follows:

FAN EDGE:
ROUND 1 (= WS): 1 sc in first st, * skip 3 sts, in next sc work 3 dc + 1 ch + 3 dc, skip 3 sc, 1 sc in next sc **, ch 1, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *-* but finish last repetition on round after **, then ch 1 and 1 sl st in sc from beg of round.
ROUND 2: ch 5 (= 1 dc + 2 ch), 1 dc in same st from beg of round, * ch 3, 1 sc in ch in the middle of dc-group, ch 3 **, in next ch work 1 dc + ch 2 + 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round but finish last repetition after **, then work 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 3: ch 3 (= 1 dc), 2 dc in ch-space before next dc, ch 1, 3 dc in same ch-space, * ch 1, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 1, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 1 **, in next ch-space work 3 dc + ch 1 + 3 dc *, repeat from *-* but finish last repetition after **, then work 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 4: Work sl sts until ch in the middle of dc-group, 1 sc in ch in the middle of dc-group, * ch 3, in ch between 2 sc work 1 dc + ch 2 + 1 dc, ch 3 **, 1 sc in ch in the middle of dc-group *, repeat from *-* but finish last repetition after **, then work 1 sl st in sc from beg of round.
ROUND 5: 1 sl st in first ch-space, 1 sc in same ch-space, ch 1, * in next ch-space (the 2 ch between 2 dc) work 3 dc + ch 1 + 3 dc, ch 1, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 1 **, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 1, repeat from *-* but finish last repetition after **, then work 1 sl st in sc from beg of round. Fasten off. Fold the fan edge out towards RS.
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NECK WARMER:
Worked in the round, top down. Work the fan edges at the end. Ch 90-102 LOOSELY on hook size 4.5 mm/ US 7 with Merino Extra Fine and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: READ CROCHET INFO! Work 1 dc in every ch the entire round = 90-102 dc.
Then work in the round with 1 dc in every dc until piece measures approx. 16-18 cm / 6 1/4"-7".
Now work 1 sc round with 1 sc in every dc = 90-102 sc.
Work 1 more round with sc while AT THE SAME TIME inc 50-48 sc evenly - READ INCREASE TIP = 140-150 sc.
Do not cut the thread, now work the fan edge in the round from RS as follows:

FAN EDGE (at the bottom around the neck warmer):
ROUND 1: 1 sc in first st, ch 1, skip 1 st, 1 sc in next st, * skip 3 sts, in next sc work 3 dc + ch 1 + 3 dc, skip 3 sc **, 1 sc in next sc, ch 1, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *-* but finish last repetition on round after **, then work 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round.
ROUND 2: 1 sl st in first ch, ch 5 (= 1 dc + 2 ch), 1 dc in same ch, * ch 3, 1 sc in ch in the middle of dc-group, ch 3 **, in next ch work 1 dc + ch 2 + 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round but finish last repetition on round after **, then work 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 3: 1 sl st in ch-space between 2 dc, ch 3 (= 1 dc), 4 dc in same ch-space, ch 2, 5 dc in same ch-space, * ch 1, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 1, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 1 **, in next ch-space (between the 2 dc) work 5 dc + ch 2 + 5 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round but finish last repetition after **, then work 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. Fasten off.

FAN EDGE (at the top around the neck warmer):
Work 1 sc in first st, * ch 1, skip 2 sts, in next sc work 3 dc + ch 1 + 3 dc, ch 1, skip 2 sc **, 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *-* but finish last repetition on round after **, then ch 1 and 1 sl st in sc from beg of round.
Fasten off.
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MITTEN:
Work first a round cuff with fan pattern, then work new sts around the opening and then work the mitten in the round until finished measurements.

CUFF:
Ch 30 VERY LOOSELY on hook size 4 mm / G/6 with Merino Extra Fine and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: READ CROCHET INFO! Work 1 sc in every ch the entire round = 30 sc.
ROUND 2: Work 1 sc in every sc = 30 sc.
ROUND 3: 1 sc in first st, ch 1, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in next sc, * skip 3 sts, in next sc work 3 dc + ch 1 + 3 dc, skip 3 sc **, 1 sc in next sc, ch 1, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in next sc*, repeat from *-* but finish last repetition on round after **, then work 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round.
ROUND 4: 1 sl st in first ch, ch 5 (= 1 dc + 2 ch), 1 dc in same ch, * ch 3, 1 sc in the middle of dc-group, ch 3 **, in next ch work 1 dc + ch 2 + 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round but finish last repetition after **, then work 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 5: 1 sl st in ch-space between 2 dc, ch 3 (= 1 dc), 2 dc in same ch-space, ch 1, 3 dc in same ch-space, * ch 1, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 1, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 1 **, in next ch-space (between the 2 dc) work 3 dc + ch 1 + 3 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round but finish last repetition after **, then work 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 6: Work sl sts until ch in the middle of dc-group, 1 sc in ch in the middle of dc-group, * ch 3, in ch between 2 sc work 1 dc + ch 2 + 1 dc, ch 3 **, 1 sc in ch in the middle of dc-group *, repeat from *-* but finish last repetition after **, then work 1 sl st in sc from beg of round.
ROUND 7: 1 sl st in first ch-space, ch 1, * in next ch-space (the 2 ch between 2 dc) work 3 dc + ch 1 + 3 dc, ch 1, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 1 **, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 1, repeat from *-* but finish last repetition after **, then work 1 sl st in sl st from beg of round. Fasten off.

MITTEN:
READ CROCHET INFO. Start at beg of round on ch-row worked at the beg of mitten and work 1 sc in every st around the entire cuff = 30 sc. Insert 1 marker at beg of round (move the marker upwards when working) – NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Now work dc in the round with 1 dc in every st while AT THE SAME TIME adjusting no of sts to 27-30 dc on 1st round – READ CROCHET 2 dc TOG. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 8-9 cm / 3"-3½", inc for thumb on each side of 2nd st at beg of round - inc 1 dc on each side of 2nd st – READ INCREASE TIP. Repeat inc on each side of this st on every round 3-4 more times = 35-40 dc on round (thumb sts = 9-11 dc). Work next round as follows: Work 1 sl st in each of the first 10-12 dc at beg of round, ch 3 (= 1 dc), then work 1 dc in each of the next 25-28 dc, ch 1 and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd from beg of round = 26-29 dc and 1 ch on round. On next round work 1 dc in every dc and 1 dc in ch at the end of round = 27-30 dc. Then work dc in the round until mitten measures approx. 20-21 cm / 8"-8 1/4" from marker (try the mitten on, approx. 3 cm / 1 1/8'' remain until finished measurements).
Continue to work as follows:
ROUND 1: Work 1 dc in every dc while AT THE SAME TIME working every 2nd and 3rd dc tog - see explanation above = 18-20 dc.
ROUND 2: Work 1 dc in every dc while AT THE SAME TIME working 2 and 2 dc tog = 9-10 dc.
ROUND 3: Work 1 sc in every dc while AT THE SAME TIME working 2 and 2 sc tog.
Cut the thread, baste it up and down through sts, pull the thread to tighten and fasten tightly.

THUMB:
ROUND 1: Work 1 sl st in the first of the 9-11 thumb sts, ch 3 (= 1 dc), then work 1 dc in each of the next 8-10 dc, then work 6 dc in st behind thumb while AT THE SAME TIME working these 6 dc tog 2 by 2 – see explanation above = 12-14 dc.
ROUND 2 to 4: Work 1 dc in every dc = 12-14 dc.
Try the mitten on, approx. 1 cm / 3/8'' remains until thumb is done. Work if needed 1 more round with 1 dc in every dc.
Continue to work as follows:
ROUND 1: Work 1 dc in every dc while AT THE SAME TIME working 2 and 2 dc tog = 6-7 dc.
ROUND 2: Work 1 sc in every dc while AT THE SAME TIME working 2 and 2 sc tog.
Cut the thread, baste it up and down through sts, pull the thread to tighten and fasten tightly.

Work another mitten the same way but reversed.
I.e. inc for thumb on each side of next to last st on round (instead of each side of 2nd st on round). And work first round after all thumb inc as follows: ch 3 (= 1 dc), 1 dc in each of the next 25-28 dc, 1 ch and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 26-29 dc.
On next round work 1 dc in every dc and 1 dc in ch at the end of round = 27-30 dc.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 17.07.2018
Mittens, 3rd round: * added at the end: , * skip 3 sts, in next sc work 3 dv + 1 ch + 3 dd skip 3 sc **, 1 sc in next sc, 1 ch, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in next sc*
Updated online: 20.09.2018
Correction to fan edge 2. round + cuff 4. round: in next ch work 1 tr + 2 ch + 1 tr - previously: in next dc.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (22)

country flag Valérie wrote:

J'ai déjà fait çe modèle ,hormis les moufles, et ç'est très joli avec laine fine ...pour crochet # 3 1/2 où # 4 ..la laine drops étant difficile à trouver içi ,au Canada,j'ai utilisé laine mérinos fine..j'ai trouvé les explic simples..j'ai par contre crocheté qq rangs supplémentaires pour le tour de cou..

06.12.2023 - 05:47

country flag Mona Nilsson wrote:

Fråga 1. Mössan avslutas med solfjädern enligt mönster men på bilden avslutas mössan med några varv med stolpar. Hur ska jag göra? Fråga 2. Ska solfjädern vikas över redan virkat parti av stolpar?

19.08.2022 - 15:27

country flag Pia wrote:

Hi, ich frage mich wie man die Mütze abschließt. Auf dem Bild sieht es so aus, als ob dann einfach nochmal zwei Runden Stb gemacht werden, aber die Anleitung hört nach der Muschelkante auf. Wie sind die letzten zwei Reihen? Liebe Grüße & Danke!

12.03.2021 - 21:00

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Pia, die 2 Reihen mit Stäbchen, die man auf das 3. Foto sehen kann sind die 2 letzten Runden vor der Muschelkante, Mütze wird von oben nach unten gehäkelt, am Ende wird die Muschelkante nach oben gefaltet (deshalb wird sie von "links", dh von der Rückseite gehäkelt). Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

15.03.2021 - 08:09

country flag Halima wrote:

Haii, hey er staat bij het gedeelte van de muts dat je moet doorhaken tot een lengte van 26-28 cm, dit.lijkt me een beetje wrg lang, hoort dit niet 16-18 cm te zijn ?

21.06.2019 - 21:05

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Halima

Ik denk dat de lengte wel klopt. De waaierrand die je er nog om haakt, wordt nadien omgevouwen naar boven toe.

23.06.2019 - 19:59

country flag Charlene wrote:

På bilde av lua er det laget 2 rekker med st etter viftemønsteret, men i oppskriften stopper det etter viftene. Hvorfor det? Hva skjer? Glemt noe?

26.09.2018 - 22:28

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Charlene. Du hekler viftekanten fra vrangen, også bretter du den opp når du er ferdig - slik at nederste del av luen er dobbel. Så det du ser som nederst på luen er de siste omgangene du heklet før du begynte på viftekanten. Altså siste omgang du hekler på viftekanten er det som blir øverst på viftekanten på bildet. God fornøyelse.

27.09.2018 - 07:51

country flag Anita wrote:

Tror det er en feil i 2. omgang av viftekant. Det står "i neste fm hekles det 1 st + 2 lm + 1 st", men det skal vel være "i neste lm hekles det 1 st + 2 lm + 1 st"?

13.09.2018 - 20:29

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Anita. Det har du helt rett i: det skal hekles 1 stav, 2 luftmasker, 1 stav i lufmasken - ikke i fastmasken. Dette skal vi rettet opp i snarest. Takk for beskjed og god fornøyelse

20.09.2018 - 10:29

country flag Mary wrote:

Thank you for answering so quickly. I understand. My yarn is on the way! Thx, MB~

18.05.2018 - 16:21

country flag Mary wrote:

Hi, can you please help me? Mitten directions for starting cuff:\r\nROUND 3: 1 sc in first st, ch 1, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in next sc, * skip 3 sts, in next sc work 3 dc + ch 1 + 3 dc, skip 3 sc **, 1 sc in next sc, ch 1, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in next sc, repeat from *-* but finish last repetition on round after **, then work 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round. \r\n-\r\nThe repeat is only between the **.....**, correct?

18.05.2018 - 04:36

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mary, repeat * skip 3 sts, in next sc work 3 dc + 1 ch + 3 dc, skip 3 sc, 1 sc in next sc **, ch 1, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in next st *, and finish the last repeat after **. Happy crocheting!

18.05.2018 - 09:03

country flag Sasy wrote:

Salve, sto eseguendo il guanto e non ho capito : lavorare a m.a. in tondo con 1 m.a. in ogni m. e aggiustare il n° di m. a 27-30 m.a. sul 1° giro. quando il lavoro misura 8-9 cm, aumentare per il pollice da ogni lato della 2° m. all’inizio del giro – aumentare 1 m.a. da ogni lato della 2° m.Ripetere gli aumenti a ogni lato di questa m. su ogni giro altre 3-4 volte = 35-40 m.a. sul giro (m. del pollice = 9-11 m.a.). Grazie attendo vostra risposta.

03.12.2017 - 15:31

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Sasy. Durante il primo giro, nella taglia S/M deve diminuire per avere 27 maglie. Poi quando il lavoro misura 8-9 cm, deve aumentare per il pollice da una parte e dall'altra della 2a m del giro. La prima volta che aumenta lavora così: 2 m.a nella prima m del giro, 1 maglia alta, 2 maglie alte nella m successiva. La seconda volta, aumenta così: 1 m.a nella prima m del giro, 2 m alte nella m successiva, 1 m.alta, 2 m.alte nella m successiva , è così via per gli altri aumenti. Buon lavoro!

03.12.2017 - 20:40

country flag Rina wrote:

In toer 3 van de manchet van de want wordt gezegd dat ik 3 st moet overslaan. Wat is een st? Deze heb ik in het patroon toch niet gehaakt? Moet dit wellicht een v zijn? En staat ergens op de dite ern overzicht van de afkortingen? Alvast hartelijk dank voor uw antwoord.

27.01.2014 - 22:29

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Rina. st = steken. Dus je haakt: 1 v in de eerste steken (van de vorige toer), 1 l, sla 1 v over, 1 v in de volgende v, * sla 3 steken over, haak in de volgende v enzovoort.

28.01.2014 - 11:10