DROPS Delight
DROPS Delight
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Vivaldi
DROPS Vivaldi
56% Mohair, 30% Polyamide, 14% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale

October

Knitted DROPS jacket with raglan, worked top down in Delight and Vivaldi or Delight and Brushed Alpaca Silk. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 143-23
DROPS design: Pattern no de-082
Yarn group A and C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 86-94-102-114-126-134 cm /
34"-37"-40"-45"-49½"-52 3/4"
Full length: 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm /
22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''

Materials:
DROPS DELIGHT from Garnstudio
200-250-250-300-300-350 g color no 10, olive/rust/plum.
And use:
DROPS VIVALDI from Garnstudio
150-150-150-200-200-200 g colour no 02, dark brown
Or: DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
150-150-150-200-200-200 g colour no 05, beige

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 6 mm/ US 10 – or size needed to get 14 sts x 18 rows in stockinette st with 1 thread Delight and 1 thread Vivaldi or 1 thread Delight and 1 thread Brushed Alpaca Silk = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 5 mm - for edges in garter st.

DROPS BUFFELHORN BUTTON NO 537: 8 pieces for all sizes

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Delight
DROPS Delight
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Vivaldi
DROPS Vivaldi
56% Mohair, 30% Polyamide, 14% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 K rows.

GARTER ST (in the round on circular needle):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

BUTTONHOLES:
Bind off for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = K tog third and fourth st from edge and make 1 YO.
Bind off for buttonholes when piece measures (measured from the neck and down):
SIZE S: 2, 9, 16, 23, 30, 37, 44 and 51 cm /
¾",3½",6¼",9",11¾",14½",17¼" and 20"
SIZE M: 2, 9, 17, 24, 31, 39, 46 and 53 cm /
¾",3½",6¾",9½",12¼",15¼",18" and 21"
SIZE L: 2, 10, 17, 25, 32, 40, 47 and 55 cm /
¾",4",6¾",9¾",12½",15¾",18½" and 21 5/8"
SIZE XL: 2, 9, 17, 25, 33, 41, 49 and 57 cm /
¾",3½",6¾",9¾",13",16 1/8",19¼" and 22½"
SIZE XXL: 2, 10, 18, 26, 34, 42, 50 and 59 cm /
¾",4",7",10¼",13 3/8",16½",19¾" and 23¼"
SIZE XXXL: 2, 11, 19, 27, 36, 44, 52 and 61 cm /
¾",4 3/8",7½",10 5/8",14¼",17¼",20½" and 24"

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Diagrams show all rows seen from RS.

RAGLAN:
Beg 4 sts before marker: Make 1 YO on needle, work diagram A.1/A.2 (marker is in the middle of repetition), make 1 YO on needle. On next row work YO twisted in stockinette st to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (applies to body and sleeves):
Work until 2 sts remain before marker, K 2 tog and then K 2 twisted tog.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from neck, top down.

YOKE:
LOOSELY cast on 80-80-88-88-92-92 sts (includes 6 band sts in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with 1 strand Delight and 1 strand Vivaldi (= 2 strands).
Beg from RS and work 4 ridges (i.e 8 rows) in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Remember BUTTONHOLES on right band - see explanation above.
Switch to circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 and K 1 row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME inc 4-4-8-8-12-12 sts evenly (do not inc over bands) = 84-84-96-96-104-104 sts.
Then work in stockinette st while AT THE SAME TIME working an elevation in the back of neck as follows (1st row = WS and K the 6 band sts at beg of row):
Work until 16-16-18-18-19-19 sts remain, turn, tighten yarn and work until 16-16-18-18-19-19 sts remain in the other side, turn, tighten yarn and work until 26-26-29-29-31-31 sts remain, turn, tighten yarn and work until 26-26-29-29-31-31 sts remain in the other side, turn, tighten yarn and work until 36-36-40-40-43-43 sts remain, turn, tighten yarn and work until 36-36-40-40-43-43 sts remain in the other side, turn, tighten yarn and work the rest of row.
Now insert 4 markers in the piece for raglan as follows (insert the markers in the piece without working the row): Insert 1st marker after 18-18-21-21-23-23 sts (= front piece), insert 2nd marker after 12-12-12-12-12-12 sts (= sleeve), insert 3rd marker after 24-24-30-30-34-34 sts (= back piece) and insert 4th marker after 12-12-12-12-12-12 sts (= sleeve). 18-18-21-21-23-23 sts remain on needle after last marker on front piece.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING:
K 1 row from RS (bands are worked in garter st) while AT THE SAME TIME inc 3 sts at each of the 4 markers as follows: Work 2 sts in each of the 2 sts on inside of markers in towards sleeves and work 2 sts on the inside of markers in towards front and back piece (12 sts inc on row, i.e. 4 sts on each sleeve, 2 sts on back piece and 1 st on each front piece) = 96-96-108-108-116-116 sts.
Then work in stockinette st with 6 band sts in garter st in each side towards mid front. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
AT THE SAME TIME on next row from RS (i.e. on first row from RS after inc at the markers), work cable according to diagram A.1 over sts at 1st and 3rd marker and cable according to diagram A.2 over sts at 2nd and 4th marker (markers are in the middle of each cable).
AT THE SAME TIME on same row from RS (i.e. while at the same time beg to work diagrams), inc for RAGLAN – see explanation above, on each side of the 4 markers (= 8 sts inc). Repeat inc for raglan every other row (i.e. on every row from RS), 12-16-15-19-21-25 more times and then every 4th row (i.e. on every other row from RS) a total of 2-1-2-1-1-0 times = 216-240-252-276-300-324 sts. Inc for raglan are now done.
Work 1 row from WS as before. Then work 1 row from RS as before while AT THE SAME TIME K sts in cable in diagram A.1 tog 2 by 2 and K sts in cable in diagram A.2 twisted tog 2 by 2 (= 3 sts dec per cable) = 204-228-240-264-288-312 sts remain on needle.
Work next row as follows from WS: Work until 1st marker, slip the 42-48-48-54-58-64 sts between 1st and 2nd marker on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-8 new sts over stitch holder, work until 3rd marker, slip the 42-48-48-54-58-64 sts between 3rd and 4th marker on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-8 new sts over stitch holder and work the rest of row = 132-144-156-172-188-200 sts on needle (piece measures approx. 22-24-26-28-30-32 cm / 8 3/4"-9½"-10 1/4"-11"-11 3/4"-12½" from shoulder and down).

BODY:
NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Continue back and forth in stockinette st and 6 band sts in garter st in each side towards mid front. AT THE SAME TIME insert 1 marker in the middle of the 6-6-6-8-8-8 new sts in each side.
When piece measures 10 cm / 4'', dec 1 st each side of markers in each side - READ DECREASE TIP (= 4 sts dec). Repeat dec every 12-12-12-8-8-8 cm / 4 3/4"-4 3/4"-4 3/4"-3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/8", 1-1-1-2-2-2 more times = 124-136-148-160-176-188 sts. Continue to work until piece measures 29 cm / 11 3/8'' (piece now measures approx. 51-53-55-57-59-61 cm / 20''-21''-21 5/8''-22½''-23¼''-24'' from shoulder and down). Switch to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and work in garter st back and forth for 5 cm / 2'', then LOOSELY bind off. Piece measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26'' from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Slip sts from one stitch holder on a short circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 (switch to double pointed needles when needed) and cast in addition on 6-6-6-8-8-8 new sts under sleeve = 48-54-54-62-66-72 sts. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Insert a marker at beg of round (= mid under sleeve). Continue in stockinette st in the round until sleeve measures 2-4-4-4-4-2 cm / 3/4"-1½"-1½"-1½"-1½"-3/4".
Now dec 2 sts mid under sleeve - READ DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every 4-2½-2½-2-1½-1½ cm / 1½"-7/8"-7/8"-3/4"-½"-½", 8-11-10-13-14-17 more times = 30-30-32-34-36-36 sts.
When sleeve measures 35-34-32-31-29-28 cm / 13¾''-13 3/8''-12½''-12¼''-11 3/8''-11'' (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders and longer sleeve cap), switch to double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8. Work in garter st in the round for 10 cm / 4'', then LOOSELY bind off.
Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves. Sew on buttons.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (36)

country flag Willemien Wierenga-Bremmer wrote:

Gewijzigd online: 30.07.2013 Begin aan de goede kant en brei 8 nld in RIBBELST (= 4 ribbels) - zie uitleg boven. Kunt u ook aangeven waar deze wijziging hoort in eht patroon? Ik kan dat niet vinden. Alvast dank, Willemien

06.04.2023 - 14:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Willemien,

In het online patroon is de wijziging al doorgevoerd en het staat aan in een van de eerste regels onder de paragraaf 'PAS'

12.04.2023 - 20:33

country flag Julia wrote:

Hallo, ich habe eine Frage zum Stricken der Rundpasse. So wie ich das verstehe, sollte man an den vier Markierern das Zopfmuster stricken und auch dort jeweils rechts und links davon Maschen zunehmen. Stimmt das? Das würde bedeuten, ich nehme direkt im Muster Maschen dazu, sieht das nicht komisch aus? Oder ist das so zu verstehen, dass man nicht direkt neben den Markierern, sondern neben dem Muster zunimmt? Danke und viele Grüße

20.11.2020 - 18:32

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Julia, die Markierer sind in der Mitte von den Zöpfe = 4 Maschen vor A.1/A.2 + 4 Maschen nach A.1/A.2, die Raglanzunahmen werden beidseitig von A.1/A.2 gestrickt, dh stricken Sie bis A.1/A.2, 1 Umschlag, A.1/A.2 stricken, 1 Umschlag - und so bei jedem Markierer stricken (= 8 Zunahmen pro Zunahmenrunde). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

23.11.2020 - 07:59

country flag Mireille Crick wrote:

For the pattern October, do you knit with the thread of the 2 different yarns for the whole cardigan? If so, why do you need less yarn for the 'brushed alpaca silk ' than for the 'delight'yarn? Thanks.

02.11.2020 - 17:37

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Mireille, Yes the whole garment is worked with 2 strands. The length of wool in a ball varies between the different qualities, which is why you need slightly less Silk yarn in weight than Delight. Happy knitting!

03.11.2020 - 05:49

country flag Berbett wrote:

Bonjour, Le rendu de la couleur du gilet n'est pas le même que celui du modèle présenté (delight n° 10, alpaca n°5) le rendu est plus foncé et terne. Pia.

16.07.2018 - 00:43

country flag Anja Wagner wrote:

Hallo! Ich würde gerne diese schöne Jacke stricken. Allerdings ist die Wolle Drops Vivaldi ausverkauft. Könnten Sie mir hier bitte eine Garnalternative nennen? Vielen Dank! Viele Grüße - Anja

30.05.2015 - 10:37

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anja, eine gute Alternative mit sehr ähnlichem und tollem Flauschcharakter ist Brushed Alpaca Silk. Ein ebenso dunkles Braun wie bei Vivaldi gibt es bei Brushed Alpaca Silk nicht, aber beige (Fb 05) würde sich stattdessen anbieten, die Jacke bekommt dann einen etwas helleren Charakter und die Farben von Delight dürften damit etwas besser zur Geltung kommen und nicht so stark gedämpft werden. Aber letztendlich sind die Farben nur Geschmackssache, lassen Sie sich einfach von den Farbpaletten inspirieren! Die benötigte Garnmenge ist übrigens identisch, Brushed Alpaca Silk und Vivaldi haben auf 50 m gerechnet dieselbe Lauflänge.

30.05.2015 - 11:08

country flag Gertrud wrote:

Für diese Jacke habe ich mich entschieden, die werde ich stricken. Find sie einfach schön!

10.10.2014 - 16:13

country flag ClaraTejeteje wrote:

En la situación de tener 96p tras realizar los aumentos: 18 p+1 Primer MP +2 12p+2 Segundo MP +1 24p +1 Tercer MP +2 12p +2 Cuarto MP +1 18 p ¿El diagrama A1 o el A2, no sé, no debería estar entre Primer y Segundo MP y entre Tercer y Cuarto MP? No entiendo que estén los MP en el centro de las torsadas...¿Cuál diagrama en cuál? ¿Y dónde se empieza? Entre los marcapuntos primero y segundo tras los aumentos hay 2p+12+2p, un total de 16 p y el diagrama tiene 8p...,¿Centrado?

08.10.2014 - 10:37

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Clara. Los MP se colocan de la misma manera: 18 pts - MP - 12 pts - MP - 24 pts - MP - 12 pts - MP - 18 pts. Las trenzas (torzadas) están SOBRE (no entre) los MP. Los MP están en el centro de los pts de la trenza. Los diagramas te vienen debajo del patrón. Si tienes alguna dificultad para seguir el patrón te recomendamos acudir a la tienda más cercana de Drops.

13.10.2014 - 12:55

country flag Sabine wrote:

Bonjour, J'aimerai tricoter ce modèle en pull avec Drops Delight n0 17 "framboisier" en l'associant avec un autre fil. Quelle couleur en Vivaldi et en Brush Alpaca Silk conviendraient ? Merci

25.09.2014 - 11:03

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sabine, pensez à contacter votre magasin DROPS (ses coordonnées mail et téléphone se trouvent dans la liste des détaillants en Suisse) - il pourra vous renseigner sur les associations possibles. Bon tricot!

25.09.2014 - 13:52

country flag Marie wrote:

Merci de votre réponse aussi rapide, je mls mets de ce pas. Jevous tiens au courant. Merci encore.Marie

25.07.2014 - 21:36

country flag Marie wrote:

Bonjour, j, ai un problème pour ce modèle, le raglan J'ai mis les marqueurs. Il faut ensuite tricoter 3 m à chacun des 4 marqueurs, tricoter 2 fois chacune des 2m avant/après les marqueurs côté manches, idem pour le dos. Si je dois tricoter 2 fois 2 m avant et après cela me fait 4m et pas 3 comme indiqué. A ce moment la on ne parle pas encore du diagramme. Je commence le diagramme après la première augmentation? ? Merci de m'éclairer. Marie

25.07.2014 - 12:06

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marie, les premières augmentations se font: 1 m avant le 1er marqueur (devant), 2 m après le 1er marqueur, 2 m avant le 2ème marqueur (manche), 1 m après le 2ème marqueur et 1 m avant le 3ème marqueur (dos), 2 m après le 3ème marqueur et 1 m avant le 4ème marqueur (manche) et 1 m après les 4ème marqueur (devant). Tricotez 1 rang sur l'env et continuez en suiv les diag. comme indiqué. Bon tricot!

25.07.2014 - 14:31