DROPS / 90 / 22

Marilyn Tan by DROPS Design

DROPS Crocheted bikini-top in Safran and Knit Shorts in Paris

BIKINI-TOP:

Sizes: S - M - L

Materials: DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
50-50-50 gr no 18, off white

DROPS 3 mm [US C] crochet hook, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

Accessories: natural white ribbon approx. 130-140-150 cm long (approx. 15 mm wide) for lower edge and 2 natural white ribbons approx. 100 cm long (approx. 10 mm wide) for straps.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

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DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 2.35 $ /50g
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100% Cotton
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DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 2.20 $ /50g
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DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 1.80 $ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
BIKINI-TOP:

Crochet gauge: 22 dc x 11 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

Crochet tips: At the beginning of every row ch 3 replaces 1 dc and every row ends with 1 sl st in the ch 3 at the beginning of previous row.

Increasing tips: Inc 2 dc by crocheting 3 dc in dc with marker.

Bikini-top: The piece is crocheted from the bottom up in 2 pieces, then put together with a lace lower edge.
1st piece: Ch 42-48-54.
1st row: 1 dc in 5th ch from hook, * skip over 1 ch, 1 dc in each of the 2 following ch *, repeat * - * and finish with 1 dc in the last ch = 27-31-35 dc. Put a marker in the center dc and move the marker up each row. Continue to crochet 1 dc in each dc – read Crochet tips – and at the same time inc 2 dc at marker on the following 4-4-5 rows – see Increasing tips = 35-39-45 dc.
Now begin decreasing at center of piece:
1st row: 16-18-21 dc, skip over 3 dc, 16-18-21 dc, turn the work.
2nd row: 15-17-20 dc, skip over 2 dc, 15-17-20 dc, turn the work.
3rd row: 14-16-19 dc, skip over 2 dc, 14-16-19 dc, turn the work.
Continue decreasing in this manner, by skipping over the 2 center dc (there will be 1 dc less at each side of center after every row).
When 4 dc remain cut yarn and fasten = a total of 20-22-26 rows, the piece measures approx. 18-20-24 cm.
Crochet an identical 2nd piece.

Then crochet a row of ch-loops to join the 2 sides together – see Fig.1.
Start at one side of one piece and from wrong side:
1 sc in first dc, ch 5 (= 1 dc + ch 2), skip over 2 dc, * 1 dc in the next dc, ch 2, skip over 2 dc *, repeat * - * a total of 7-9-11 times and finish with 1 dc in last dc, but
for Size S skip over 3 dc instead of 2 dc two times and for Size L skip over 1 dc instead of 2 dc two times
= 8-10-12 ch-loops, then ch 3, 1 dc in first dc on the next piece, * ch 2, skip over 2 dc, 1 dc in the next dc *, repeat * - * as on 1st piece = 18-22-26 dc on row, turn the work.

Next row (= lace edge): ch 1, skip over 2 ch, * in the next dc crochet: 2 dc, 1 tr, 1 dtr, ch 2, 1 dtr, 1 tr and 2 dc, skip over 2 ch, 1 dc and ch 2 *, repeat * - * a total of 3-4-5 times, in the next dc crochet: 2 dc, 1 tr, 1 dtr, ch 2, 1 dtr, 1 tr and 2 dc, skip over 2 ch, 1 dc and ch 1, in the next ch (= center ch-loop between the 2 pieces) crochet: 2 dc, 1 tr, 1 dtr, ch 2, 1 dtr, 1 tr and 2 dc, skip over 1 ch, 1 dc and ch 2, * in the next dc crochet: 2 dc, 1 tr, 1 dtr, ch 2, 1 dtr, 1 tr and 2 dc, skip over 2 ch, 1 dc and ch 2 *, repeat * - * a total of 3-4-5 times, in the next dc crochet: 2 dc, 1 tr, 1 dtr, ch 2, 1 dtr, 1 tr and 2 dc, skip over 2 ch and finish with 1 sl st in ch 3 at the beginning of previous row.

Ribbon: Thread the wide ribbon through the ch-loops at lower edge and tie in back. Thread each of the narrow ribbons through the hole at the top of each bra piece, fold in half, then tie at the back of the neck.

Decorate with a small silk flower at center front.





SHORTS:

Sizes: S - M - L

Hip measurements: 90/94 - 96/100 - 102/106 cm
[35-3/8"/37" - 37.75"/39-3/8" - 40-1/8"/41.75"]
The shorts should fit snugly, make the appropriate size for you.

Materials: DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
200-200-250 gr nr 17, natural

DROPS 4.5 mm [US 7] short circular needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

Accessories: approx. 3 meters natural white ribbon (approx. 10 mm width) for band around stomach

Gauge: 24 sts x 23 rows in rib = 10 x 10 cm (unstretched)

Rib: * K 1, P 1 *, repeat * - *.

Body: Cast on 160-170-180 sts on smaller short circular needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit rib (if you wish to have a tighter rib at top of shorts, knit together with a strand of elastic for the first 3 cm). When the piece measures 22-25-28 cm divide sts on 3 st holders as follows: 32-35-37 sts on st holder-1 (= front right leg), put 15 sts on st holder-2 (= crotch front) and put 32-35-37 sts on st holder-3 (= left front leg) = 81-85-91 sts remain on needles (= back).
Now continue with rib back and forth on needles over sts on back and put the outermost sts at each side onto st holder-1 and st holder-3 as follows: * Put the 5-4-4 outermost sts at the beginning of row (seen from the right side) onto st holder-1, knit rib to last 5-4-4 sts and put these onto st holder-3, turn and knit back over all sts *, repeat * - * a total of 5-6-7 times. On the next row (= right side) put the outermost 8-11-10 sts at the beginning of row onto st holder-1 and the 8-11-10 sts at end of row onto st holder-3 = 15 sts remain on needles, bind off in rib (there are now 65-70-75 sts on st holder-1 and st holder-3). Alternatively, put the 15 sts on a st holder and join with crotch (below) in Kitchener st.

Crotch: Put the 15 sts from st holder-2 back on needles and knit rib back and forth until crotch measures 11-13-15 cm, bind off in rib. Sew crotch edge to edge to the 15 sts bound off on back. Or join with Kitchener st if you have put those sts on a st holder (see above).

Right leg: Put the 65-70-75 sts on st holder-1 on a short circular needle, then pick up 21-26-29 sts along crotch edge = 86-96-104 sts. Join and knit rib until leg measures 4-4-5 cm (from picked up sts). Bind off loosely in rib.

Left leg: Knit the same as the right.

Ribbon: Wrap a ribbon 2 times around stomach for decoration and make a knot at the back.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 90-22) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (5)

Knpifjnjnd 04.01.2020 - 04:29:

Be beside others to overlong up the good between faraway deflation

Dekan 01.04.2019 - 10:59:

Hallo Ich verstehe den zweiten Teil, nach dem Aufteilden der Maschen, leider nicht so genau. Die 5-4-4 Maschen, werden sie auf Hilfdnadel 1&3 gestrickt oder geschoben? Und wenn geschoben, wie genau soll das mit dem Arbeitsfaben, der ja dann auf HN 1 landet funktionieren? Werden die 4 Maschen dann übergangen? Könnten Sie vielleicht die Anleitung etwas genauer, für Anfänger wie ich, schreiben?ich habe gedacht, sie wäre einfach und habe schon damit begonnen. Vielen lieben Dank Gruss

DROPS Design 01.04.2019 kl. 16:03:

Lieber Dekan, Sie können diesse 5-4-4 Maschen am Anfang der Reihe zuerst stricken, dann stilllegen, so brauchen Sie den Faden nicht zu schneiden. Am Ende der Reihen legen Sie die letzen 5-4-4 Maschen, ohne sie zu stricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Сialis 12.08.2018 - 05:28:

Appreciate this post. Will try it out.

Anna 18.02.2016 - 16:44:

Ich verstehe leider bei den Hotpants den Teil zwischen * und * nicht. Wenn ich die jeweils 4 Maschen auf Faden 1 und 3 legen soll, auf welche Seite des Fadens kommen diese jeweils bzw. wie soll es dann aussehen? Ich habe es versucht, aber die Maschen liegen jetzt kreuz und quer bzw. überschneiden sich die Fäden 1 und 3 nun - das kann so nicht stimmen. Ein Bild oder ein Diagramm für diesen Abschnitt würden sehr helfen. Vielen Dank!

DROPS Design 08.03.2016 kl. 13:52:

Liebe Anna, lieder gibt es für diese ältere Anleitung keine Skizze. Haben Sie die Konstruktion verstanden? Nach dem Hauptteil wird die Arbeit in vordere und hintere Seite geteilt und die vordere Seite (mit je einer Beinhälfte und dem Schritt) wird auf 3 Fäden oder - wenn es für Sie praktischer ist - Hilfsnadeln gelegt. Wenn Sie die Hose aufeinanderfalten sehen Sie jeweils genau, auf welchen Faden oder Nadel die stillgelegten Maschen kommen.

Hanne Magnus 27.01.2014 - 08:44:

Hvilke årstal er denne opskrift fra?

DROPS Design 27.01.2014 kl. 11:35:

Hej Hanne. Jeg mener omkring 2003-2004

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