Tempest by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket in 2 strands DROPS Alpaca with shirred pattern on the yoke. Size children 3 to 12 years.

DROPS design: Pattern no BS-002-bn
Yarn Group A
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Size: 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
Finished measurements:
Bust: 64-68-74-76-80 cm / 25 1/4"-26 3/4"-29"-30"-31½"
Full length: 37-40-43-46-49 cm / 14½"-15 3/4"-17"-18"-19 1/4"

Note: Due to the shirred pattern on yoke, this design must be worked with 2 strands as said in pattern, and not be replaced with 1 strand as shown in the yarn alternatives.

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
Color no 2917, light turquoise:
200-250-300-350-400 g.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24'') size 4.5 mm/ US 7 - or size needed to get 18 sts x 24 rows in stockinette st with 2 strands and 20 sts x 26 rows in stockinette st with 1 strand = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24'') size 3.5 mm/US 4 - for garter st.

DROPS WOOD BUTTONS COCONUT, #516: 5-6-6-7-7 pieces

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100% Alpaca
from 5.30 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 5.30 $ /50g
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 5.60 $ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on circular needle): K all rows.

BUTTON HOLES:
Bind off for button holes on right band from RS.
1 BUTTON HOLE = bind off 3rd st from edge and cast on 1 new st on next row over this st. Bind off for button holes when piece measures approx.:
SIZE 3/4 years: 4, 12, 20, 28 and 36 cm / 1½",4 3/4",8",11" and 14 1/4".
SIZE 5/6 years: 4, 11, 18, 25, 32 and 39 cm / 1½",4 3/8",7",9 3/4",12½" and 15 1/4".
SIZE 7/8 years: 4, 12, 20, 28, 35 and 42 cm / 1½",4 3/4",8",11",13 3/4" and 16½".
SIZE 9/10 years: 4, 11, 18, 25, 32, 39 and 45 cm / 1½",4 3/8",7",9 3/4",12½",15 1/4" and 17 3/4".
SIZE 11/12 years: 4, 12, 19, 26, 33, 40 and 47 cm / 1½",4 3/4",7½",10 1/4",13",15 3/4" and 18½".
NOTE: Work last button hole when 3 rows remain before bind off.
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BODY:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front.
Cast on 116-122-130-136-142 sts (includes 4 band sts in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with 2 strands Alpaca. Work 4 rows in GARTER ST - see explanation above! Insert 2 markers in the piece; 31-32-34-36-37 sts in from each side (= 54-58-62-64-68 sts between markers on back piece). Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and continue in stockinette st and 4 band sts in garter st in each side. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', beg to bind off for BUTTON HOLES – see explanation above!
When piece measures 10 cm / 4'' inc 1 st on each side of both markers. Repeat inc when piece measures 16-17-18-19-20 cm / 6 1/4"-6 3/4"-7"-7½"-8" = 124-130-138-144-150 sts.
When piece measures approx. 23-25-26-29-31 cm / 9"-9 3/4"-10 1/4"-11½"-12 1/4" (adjust so that next row is worked from RS), bind off 6 sts in each side for armholes (i.e. bind off 3 sts on each side of both markers) = 112-118-126-132-138 sts remain on needle.
Put piece aside and work the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 32-34-36-36-38 sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 with 2 strands Alpaca. K 1 round, P 1 round, K 1 round and P 1 round. Insert a marker at beg of round (= mid under sleeve). Switch to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7 and work in stockinette st. When piece measures 6-6-7-7-8 cm / 2 3/8"-2 3/8"-2 3/4"-2 3/4"-3 1/8", inc 1 st on each side of marker. Repeat inc every 4-4½-3-3½-3½ cm / 1½"-1 3/4"-1 1/8"-1 1/4"-1 1/4" a total of 6-6-9-9-10 times = 44-46-54-54-58 sts. When piece measures 28-32-34-39-42 cm / 11"-12½"-13½"-15 1/4"-16½", bind off 6 sts mid under sleeve (i.e. bind off 3 sts each side of marker) = 38-40-48-48-52 sts remain on needle.
Slip sts on a stitch holder and knit another sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip (do not work) sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were bind off = 188-198-222-228-242 sts. Then work SHIRRED PATTERN - see explanation below! NOTE: Work the bands in garter st with 2 strands even where it says switch to 1 strand (i.e. have an extra, small ball in each side for bands).

SHIRRED PATTERN: Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. K 3 rows with 2 strands (1st row = WS).
Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and 1 strand. K (from RS) 2 sts in all sts except band sts (i.e. divide every st and work 1 st in each of the 2 strands in every st) = 368-388-436-448-476 sts. Continue with 7-7-9-9-9 rows in stockinette st (still work bands in garter st with 2 strands).
Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and 2 strands.
From RS K2 tog across (except the band sts) = 188-198-222-228-242 sts.
K 1 row from WS.
Work next row from RS as follows: 4 band sts in garter st, * K 3, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* until 4-4-8-4-8 sts remain, K 0-0-4-0-4 sts and 4 band sts in garter st = 152-160-180-184-196 sts.
K 1 row from WS.
Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and 1 strand.
K 2 sts in all sts (except band sts) = 296-312-352-360-384 sts.
Continue with 7-7-9-9-9 rows in stockinette st.
Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and 2 strands.
K2 tog across (except band sts) = 152-160-180-184-196 sts.
K 1 row from WS.
Work next row from RS as follows: 4 band sts in garter st, * K 2, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-*, finish with 4 band sts in garter st = 116-122-137-140-149 sts. K 1 row from WS.
Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and 1 strand.
K 2 sts in all sts (except band sts) = 224-236-266-272-290 sts.
Continue with 7-7-9-9-9 rows in stockinette st.
Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and 2 strands.
K2 tog across (except band sts) = 116-122-137-140-149 sts.
K 1 row from WS.
Work next row from RS as follows: 4 band sts in garter st, then K2 tog across until 4-4-5-4-5 sts remain, K these sts = 62-65-73-74-79 sts.
K 3-5-5-5-7 rows, bind off with K from RS.
Piece measures approx. 37-40-43-46-49 cm / 14½"-15 3/4"-17"-18"-19 1/4" up to shoulder.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew tog the openings under the sleeves and sew on buttons.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 22-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (16)

Turid 12.03.2019 - 21:48:

Kan jeg strikke denne med merino ekstra fine garn ( 1 tråd.)

DROPS Design 13.03.2019 kl. 15:48:

Hej Turid, for at få samme strikkefasthed som 2 tråde Alpaca, skal du vælge 1 tråd DROPS Big Merino (Merino Extra Fine er lidt for tynd) Brug vores garnkalkulator for at se hvor meget du skal bruge. God fornøjelse!

Sue Craver 18.02.2019 - 12:20:

I must be doing something wrong. I’ve knitted the body and sleeves, but joining them together on one needle is very very hard. I don’t know how else to do it, but there is too much strain on the bound off underarm area and it just doesn’t seem right. Help?

DROPS Design 18.02.2019 kl. 13:06:

Dear Mrs Craver, this video shows how to work the sleeves over the cast off sts for armholes for yoke, the first rows may be somewhat tricky but after some rows/cm it will be easier. Happy knitting!

Jitha 24.09.2018 - 13:45:

Hallo, am Schluss des Vorder- und Rückteils steht: "Nach ca. 23-25-26-29-31 cm (die nächste R. wird von der Rückseite gestrickt) auf beiden Seiten 6 M. für das Armloch abk." Wird nun von der Vorder- oder der Rückseite abgekettet? Vielen Dank im Voraus!

DROPS Design 24.09.2018 kl. 14:42:

Liebe Jitha, die 2 x 6 Maschen werden auf der selben HinReihe abgekettet: *stricken Sie bis 3 M vor der 1. Markierung bleibt, die nächste 6 Maschen abketten (= 3 vor der Markierung + 3 nach der Markierung)*, von *bis* noch einmal wiederholen = es sind jetzt 6 Maschen für die Ärmelausschnitt abgekettet. Legen Sie zur Seite und stricken Sie die Ärmel. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

ANNA 27.01.2017 - 12:10:

Hej Hur kan man anpassa beskrivningen om man inte vill göra "rynket" pá oket? Jga skulle gärna sticka hela koftan slät i dubbel trád Baby Alpaca.

DROPS Design 30.01.2017 kl. 15:45:

Hej Anna. Jeg ville strikke en pröve i glatstrik og notere strikkefastheden og saa beregne hvor mange m du har brug for at faa de rette maal paa oket

Cecilie 19.08.2016 - 10:11:

Hei. Forstår ikke helt økningen på bolen. Strikker i str. 7/8 år. Det skal legges opp 130 masker, etter 10 cm økes det 1 maske på hver side av merkemaskene, dette gjentas etter 16,17,18,19 og 20 cm. Det skal nå være 138 masker. Dette forstår jeg ikke. Hvordan kan 6 økninger gi 8 masker? Dersom det økes 1 maske ved hver merkemaske blir jo det 12 økte og dersom det økes 2 masker ved hver merkemaske blir jo det 24 økte masker!?! Hva er riktig?

DROPS Design 19.08.2016 kl. 13:55:

Hej. Stickar du i storlek 7/8 år så ska ökningen gjentas efter 18 cm (16-17-18-19-20 cm är för de olika storlekana). Du ökar alltså först 1 m på hver side av begge merkene = 4 ökade m. Detta gjentas vid 18 cm. 130+4+4=138 m. Lycka till!

Dorthe Sonne 07.05.2014 - 12:37:

Synes at denne bluse er rigtig sød, men vil ikke strikke noget der skal håndvaskes til en pige på 3½. Hvilken garn kan jeg bruge alternative - synes det er lidt svært at finde ud af når den strikkes i dobbelt garn

DROPS Design 07.05.2014 kl. 12:57:

Du kan strikke den i DROPS Fabel eller Baby Merino som tilhörer samme garngruppe A og som begge kan vaskes i maskine.

Inga 18.01.2014 - 11:22:

Ingenstans, då den är sydd i tyg!

Helle 18.01.2014 - 10:16:

Hvor finder jeg opskrift til nederdelen?

DROPS Design 21.01.2014 kl. 16:44:

Hej Helle. Der er ingen opskrift paa den. Den er ikke strikket.

Marie Martin 09.08.2013 - 05:33:

SPEECHLESS!! This is just too sweet for words. I love seeing the joy on that precious baby's face!! Again..... *SPEECHLESS!!*

Christina Bramsen 07.08.2013 - 08:45:

Hej Findes der en opskrift på denne trøje i mindre størrelser? Den er super sød, og jeg vil gerne strikke den til min datter på 1 år. Hilsen Christina

DROPS Design 15.08.2013 kl. 15:36:

Hej Christina. Nej, desvaerre har vi den ikke i mindre lige nu, men maaske i en kommende kollektion.

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