DROPS Baby / 20 / 23

Little Blue Dream by DROPS Design

Set of knitted jumpsuit with raglan and crochet teddy bear for baby and children in DROPS Merino Extra Fine

DROPS design: Model no ME-043-by + ME-028-by
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Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size in cm: 50/56-62/68-74/80 (86/92-98/104)

Materials: DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
350-350-400-450-450 g colour no 15, light grey/green

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm) size 4.5 mm - or size needed to get 20 sts x 26 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm) size 3.5 mm – for rib.

DROPS WOOD BUTTON LIGHT, no 503: 5-6-8 (8-9) pcs.
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TEDDY:
Measurements: length approx 30 cm

Materials: DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
50 g colour no 07, light brown mix
50 g colour no 19, light grey/blue
A remnant colour no 01, off-white
A remnant colour no 15, light grey/green
And use: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
A remnant colour no 151, guacamole
A remnant colour no 400, black (for eyes)

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4 mm – or size needed to get 19 dc x 10 rows = 10 x 10 cm – NOTE: Measure when piece is lying flat. The teddy will fill out when filled with cotton wool.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3 mm (for hearts).

COTTON WOOL for filling

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 3.10 £ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 2.50 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.90£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
JUMPSUIT:

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.

DECREASING TIP:
Make all dec from RS.
Dec as follows before marker: K2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.
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LEG:
Worked in the round. Cast on 48-54-60 (66-72) sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm with Merino Extra Fine. Insert a marker at beg of round = inside of leg. K 1 round and continue in rib K3/ P3. When rib measures 4-4-4 (5-5) cm K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME dec 6 sts evenly = 42-48-54 (60-66) sts. Change to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm. P 1 round and continue in stocking st. When piece measures 6-6-6 (7-7) cm inc 1 st each side of marker, and repeat the inc on every 3-4-5 (5-7) cm a total of 4 times = 50-56-62 (68-74) sts. When piece measures 16-20-23 (25-32) cm divide piece at inside of leg and complete piece back and forth on needle (to make it easier to slip sts on circular needle later on). Cast on 1 edge st each side = 52-58-64 (70-76) sts. When piece measures 18-22-25 (29-34) cm cast off 1 edge st each side. Put piece aside and knit the other leg in the same way.

BODY PIECE:
Slip legs on the same circular needle size 4.5 mm = 100-112-124 (136-148) sts. Continue back and forth from mid front as follows (first row = RS): Cast off 4 sts, K remaining sts on row. Turn piece, cast off 4 sts and P remaining sts on row = 92-104-116 (128-140) sts. Continue in stocking st back and forth on all sts. When piece measures 37-45-53 (58-65) cm work next row as follows (from RS): 17-20-23 (26-29) stocking sts (= right front piece), cast of 8 sts for armhole, work 42-48-54 (60-66) stocking sts (= back piece), cast off 8 sts for armhole, work 17-20-23 (26-29) stocking sts (= left front piece). Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round. Cast on 36-42-42 (48-48) sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm with Merino Extra Fine. K 1 round and continue in rib K3/P3. When piece measures approx 3 cm K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME dec 6-10-8 (12-10) sts evenly = 30-32-34 (36-38) sts. Change to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and P 1 round. Insert a marker at beg of round = mid under sleeve. Continue in stocking st. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 5 cm inc 1 st each side of marker mid under sleeve, and repeat the inc on every 5-5-6 (6-6) round a total of 6-6-7 (8-9) times = 42-44-48 (52-56) sts. When piece measures 17-18-21 (24-28) cm cast off 8 sts mid under sleeve (4 sts each side of marker) = 34-36-40 (44-48) sts. Put piece aside and knit the other sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on the same circular needle as body piece where cast off for armhole = 144-160-180 (200-220) sts. Insert a marker in all transitions between body piece and sleeves = 4 markers. Work stocking st back and forth on all sts. AT THE SAME TIME on 3rd row dec 1 st each side of all markers for raglan - see DECREASING TIP! Repeat the dec on every other row (= every row from RS) a total of 10-11-12 (13-15) times. AT THE SAME TIME when you have dec 7-6-6 (6-7) times for raglan cast off for neck at the beg of every row each side: 2 sts 3-3-4 (5-5) times and then 1 st 0-2-2 (2-3) times. After all dec for raglan and neck are complete there are 52-56-64 (72-74) sts left on needle and piece measures approx 45-53-62 (68-77) cm. Cast off all sts.

FRONT BAND:
Pick up 63-75-91 (95-103) sts along right front piece from bottom edge towards the neck on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Merino Extra Fine. K 1 row from WS, K 1 row from RS and continue in rib as follows (from WS): 1 garter st, * P2, K2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with P2. When rib measures 2 cm make buttonholes on next row from RS as follows: rib on the first 10-10-2 (6-2) sts, * P2 tog, 1 YO, 10 sts rib * repeat from *-* a total of 4-5-7 (7-8) times, finish with P2 tog, 1 YO, K2, 1 garter st. Continue in rib until front band measures 4 cm, cast off with K over K and P over P. Repeat on left front piece – do not make buttonholes.

HOOD:
Pick up approx 60 to 100 sts (do not pick up on front bands) round neck on circular needle size 4.5 mm. K 1 row from WS, AT THE SAME TIME adjust no of sts to 44-48-52 (56-60) sts. Work 4 rows garter st. Then K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME inc 24 sts evenly = 68-72-76 (80-84) sts. Continue in stocking st with 1 garter st each side towards mid front until hood measures 21-23-25 (27-28) cm, cast off. Fold hood double and sew tog at the top, sew edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam. Pick up 112-124-136 (144-152) sts round opening of hood on circular needle size 3.5 mm. K 1 row from WS, K 1 row from RS and continue in rib as follows (from WS): 1 edge st, * P2, K2 *, repeat from *-* on the next 108-120-132 (140-148) sts and finish with P2 and 1 edge st. Work rib for 8 cm, cast off with K over K and P over P.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew openings under sleeves and sew seam on the inside of leg inside 1 edge st. Sew left front band to the bottom of body piece. Sew buttons to left front band. Sew the first 4 cm from hood to the top edge of front band each side. Fold the other 4 cm towards RS and fasten with a few sts.
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TEDDY:

TEDDY:

CROCHET INFO:
Replace first dc on round with 1 ch and finish each round with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round.
CROCHET DC TOG:
Crochet 2 dc tog to 1 dc as follows: Insert hook in first st, pick up thread, insert hook in next st, pick up thread, make 1 YO and pull thread through all 3 sts on hook.
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HEAD AND BODY:
Beg at the top of head and after the head crochet the body. Then crochet ears, arms, and the hearts, which are sewn on afterwards.


HEAD:
SEE CROCHET INFO! Crochet 4 ch with crochet hook size 4 mm with light brown mix and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Crochet 6 dc in ring.
ROUND 2: 2 dc in each dc = 12 dc.
ROUND 3: * 1 dc in first dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* = 18 dc.
ROUND 4: * 1 dc in each of the first 2 dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* = 24 dc.
ROUND 5: * 1 dc in each of the first 3 dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* = 30 dc.
ROUND 6-11: Crochet 1 dc in each dc = 30 dc.
ROUND 12: * 1 dc in each of the first 3 dc, then crochet the next 2 dc tog (see above) *, repeat from *-* = 24 dc.
ROUND 13: Crochet 1 dc in each dc = 24 dc.
ROUND 14: * 1 dc in each of the first 2 dc, then crochet the next 2 dc tog *, repeat from *-* = 18 dc.
ROUND 15: * 1 dc in first dc, then crochet the next 2 dc tog *, repeat from *-* = 12 dc.
Now fill the head with cotton wool and continue in the round for body without cutting the thread.
ROUND 16-18: Crochet 1 dc in each dc = 12 dc.
ROUND 19: * 1 dc in each of the first 2 dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* = 16 dc. Change to off-white.
ROUND 20: * 1 dc in each of the first 3 dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* = 20 dc. Change to light grey/blue.
ROUND 21: Crochet 1 dc in each dc = 20 dc. Change to light grey/green.
ROUND 22: * 1 dc in each of the first 4 dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* = 24 dc. Change to light grey/blue.
ROUND 23: Crochet 1 dc in each dc = 24 dc. Change to light grey/green.
ROUND 24: * 1 dc in each of the first 3 dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* = 30 dc. Change to off-white.
ROUND 25: Crochet 1 dc in each dc = 30 dc. Change to light grey blue and crochet the rest of the body as follows:
ROUND 26-29: Crochet 1 dc in each dc = 30 dc.
ROUND 30: * 1 dc in each of the first 9 dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* = 33 dc.
ROUND 31-39: Crochet 1 dc in each dc = 33 dc.
ROUND 40: * 1 dc in each of the first 10 dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* = 36 dc.
ROUND 41-46: Crochet 1 dc in each dc = 36 dc.
ROUND 47: * 1 dc in each of the first 10 dc, then crochet the next 2 dc tog *, repeat from *-* = 33 dc.
ROUND 48: Crochet 1 dc in each dc = 33 dc.
ROUND 49: * 1 dc in each of the first 9 dc, then crochet the next 2 dc tog *, repeat from *-* = 30 dc.
ROUND 50: * 1 dc in each of the first 3 dc, then crochet the next 2 dc tog *, repeat from *-* = 24 dc.
ROUND 51: Crochet 1 dc in each dc = 24 dc.
ROUND 52: * 1 dc in each of the first 2 dc, then crochet the next 2 dc tog *, repeat from *-* = 18 dc.
ROUND 53: Crochet 1 dc in each dc = 18 dc.
ROUND 54: * 1 dc in first dc, then crochet the next 2 dc tog *, repeat from *-* = 12 dc.
ROUND 55: Crochet 2 dc tog all the way round = 6 dc.
Fill the body with cotton wool, cut the thread, pull thread through remaining sts, tighten and fasten.

LEGS:
Crochet 4 ch with crochet hook size 4 mm with light brown mix and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Crochet 8 dc in ring.
ROUND 2: * 1 dc in first dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-*= 12 dc.
ROUND 3: Crochet 1 dc in each dc = 12 dc – NOTE: Crochet in back loop of st.
ROUND 4: Crochet 1 dc in each dc = 12 dc – NOTE: Crochet through both loops again.
ROUND 5: Crochet 1 dc in each dc, at the same time crochet 2 dc tog at the beg and at the end of round = 10 dc.
ROUND 6: Crochet 1 dc in each dc, at the same time crochet tog 5th and 6th dc and crochet tog 7th and 8th dc on round = 8 dc.
Cut the thread. Crochet 1 more leg in the same way. Fill the legs with cotton wool and sew the legs to bottom of body.

ARMS:
Crochet 4 ch with crochet hook size 4 mm with light brown mix and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Crochet 4 dc in ring.
ROUND 2: Crochet 2 dc in each dc = 8 dc.
ROUND 3-6: Crochet 1 dc in each dc = 8 dc. Change to light grey/green.
ROUND 7: Crochet 1 dc in each dc = 8 dc
Fill the arm with cotton wool, place piece flat and crochet 1 dc in each dc through both layers = 4 dc. Cut the thread. Crochet 1 more arm in the same way and sew arms to the side of body at the top.

EARS:
Crochet 4 ch with crochet hook size 4 mm with light brown mix and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Crochet 6 dc in ring.
ROUND 2: * 1 dc in first dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* = 9 dc.
ROUND 3: * 1 dc in each of the first 2 dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* = 12 dc.
ROUND 4-6: Crochet 1 dc in each dc = 12 dc.
Place piece flat and crochet 1 dc in each dc through both layers = 6 dc, turn piece and crochet 2 dc tog across the row = 3 dc. Cut the thread and sew ear to the top of head to the side. Crochet 1 more ear and attach to the opposite side of head.

SMALL HEART:
Crochet 2 ch with crochet hook size 3 mm with guacamole (try to find a yellow section of the yarn) and crochet 3 dc in first ch, turn piece. Crochet 1 ch, then 1 dc in each st = 5 dc (includes ch at beg and end of row), turn piece. Crochet 3 ch, 1 tr in first ch, 1 dc in middle of heart, 3 ch, 1 tr in first ch, 1 sl st in ch from beg of previous row. Cut the thread and sew the heart to the front of teddy.

LARGE HEART:
Crochet 2 ch with crochet hook size 3 mm with guacamole (try to find a yellow section of the yarn) and crochet 3 dc in first ch, turn piece. Crochet 1 ch, then 1 dc in each st = 5 dc (includes ch at beg and end of row), turn piece. Crochet 1 ch, then 1 dc in each st = 6 dc (includes ch at beg of row), turn piece. Crochet 4 ch, 1 tr in first ch, 1 dc in the middle of heart, 4 ch,1 tr in first ch, 1 sl st in ch from beg of previous row. Cut the thread and sew the heart to the front of teddy. Crochet 1 more heart and sew to the back of teddy.

Embroider eyes and mouth at the front of teddy with black.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 20.04.2018
Nyw yarn amount/under jumpsuit:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
350-350-400-450-450 g colour no 15, light grey/green

Diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 20-23) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (96)

Nina 05.02.2020 - 00:05:

Skal vrangbordkanten rundt hetten , festes med sting rundt hele? Eller bare i hver side nederst ?

DROPS Design 11.02.2020 kl. 10:18:

Hej Nina, fest gerne med sting der det behøves :)

Ardyns Elisabeth 03.02.2020 - 19:06:

Ik begrijp nog stteds niet de uitleg van 60 tot 100 sreken opnemen voor de capouchon. Ik heb 84 steken opgenomen maar moet naar een aantal van maar 52. Ik vind nergens filmpje hoe dat moet. Hoe moet doet, steken samenbreien in de eerste rechte naald? Of steken laten vallen, wat omslachtig is als ze al allemaal op de naald zitten.

DROPS Design 09.02.2020 kl. 20:41:

Dag Elisabeth,

Je past het aantal steken aan door verdeeld over de toer samen te breien in de eerste naald op de verkeerde kant. Zorg er voor dat je dit verdeeld doet. Je kunt dit uitrekenen door het aantal te minderen steken te delen door het totaal aantal steken. Je weet dan om de hoeveel steken je moet minderen.

Zurisadai 09.11.2019 - 02:01:

Hola, hice este patrón, quedó precioso, me ha encantado, mil gracias por hacer sus patrones tan fácil de entender, Dios le bendiga mucho.

Hanne Hassan 28.10.2019 - 23:47:

Hej.skal masker til forkanten på hætten samles op fra retten eller vrangen.vh hanne

DROPS Design 29.10.2019 kl. 12:18:

Hej Hanne, du strikker maskerne op fra retsiden, strikker 1 pind ret fra vrangen og 1 pind ret fra retsiden, nu fortsætter du med rib (1.p fra vrangen). God fornøjelse!

Debbie 25.10.2019 - 19:24:

Just finishing the ribbing at the bottom of the first leg. Size 12/18 months. After ribbing is a row of purl next? If so why?

DROPS Design 25.10.2019 kl. 21:18:

Dear Debbie, according to the pattern, after you finish the ribbing, you have to knit one round of purl, then continue with stockinett stitches (knit stitches in every round). Happy Knitting!

Debbie Cocks 24.10.2019 - 09:22:

I am just finishing the first leg of the little blue dream. I can’t find videos to explain the finish of it. Difficulty with “divide piece at inside of leg........”

DROPS Design 24.10.2019 kl. 10:52:

Dear Mrs Cocks, when piece measures 16-32 cm you will work the leg now in rows and not in the round anymore to make it easier to work both legs together later, on next row, cast on 1 new stitch at the end of the row, turn and work next row from WS casting on 1 st at the end of this row = 2 new sts = edge sts for the seam allowance. Continue now back and forth until piece measures 18-34 cm and cast off the edge stitches on each side at the beg of next 2 rows. Happy knitting!

Hanne Hassan 24.10.2019 - 01:19:

Hej .skal jeg starte på hætten ved siden af forkanten.vh hanne

DROPS Design 24.10.2019 kl. 15:06:

Hej Hanne, ja det stemmer og til sidst strikker du en kant rundt om hætten. God fornøjelse!

Hanne Hassan 13.10.2019 - 12:01:

Kan man bruge drops Karisma til opskriften. Vh hanne

DROPS Design 14.10.2019 kl. 08:32:

Hej Hanne, Ja DROPS Karisma og DROPS Merino Extra fine tilhører begge garngruppe B, så de kan strikkes på samme strikkefasthed. God fornøjelse!

Meri Salminen 08.10.2019 - 20:35:

Hei! Voiko langan korvata neuleessa DropsBaby merino-langalla? Mikä mahtaa olla menekki koossa 68?

DROPS Design 17.12.2019 kl. 17:12:

Hei, DROPS Baby Merino - lanka on Merino Extra Fine -lankaa ohuempi lanka, joten se ei käy vaihtoehtoisena lankana. Valitse joku lankaryhmään B kuuluva lanka.

Eli 09.09.2019 - 21:03:

Jeg strikker minste størrelsen. Skal arbeidet måle 18 cm på beinet fra oppbrettet kant?

DROPS Design 10.09.2019 kl. 16:00:

Hej Eli, du måler benet fra starten af arbejdet. God fornøjelse!

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