DROPS Baby / 10 / 25

DROPS Baby 10-25 by DROPS Design

DROPS raglan jumper and socks

Size: 1/3 – 6/9 – 12 months – 2 – 3/4 years
Size in cm: 50/56 – 62/68 – 74/80 - 86/92 -98/104

Materials: DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
Jacket: 100-150-150-150-200 g colour no 6834, blue-turquoise.
Sweater: 100-150-150-150-200 g colour no 2916, olive

and use: DROPS Silke-Tweed from Garnstudio
Jacket: 100-100-100-150-150 g colour no 22, turquoise
Sweater: 100-100-100-150-150 g colour no 21, pistachio

DROPS needles size 3.5 mm and 5 mm

Buttons, 4 pcs.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Alpaca
from 3.20 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.30 £ /50g
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.40£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension: 17 sts x 22 in stocking st with double thread on needle size 5 mm = 10 x 10 cm.

Garter st (back and forth): knit all rows.

Rib: *K1, P1*, repeat from *-*.

Pattern:
Row 1: *K1, P1*, repeat from *-*.
Row 2: Stocking sts.
Repeat row 1 and 2.

Buttonhole: 1 buttonhole = cast off 3rd st from edge and make a yo over cast off st on return row

Decreasing tip (apply to raglan):
Dec as follows from RS: Before 4 (1) edge st: K2 tog. After 4 (1) edge sts: slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso.
Dec as follows from WS: Before 4 (1) edge st: P2 tog into back of st. After 4 (1) edge sts: P2 tog.

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Back piece (jacket and sweater): Cast on 46-50-56-62-66 sts (incl 1 edge st each side) on needle size 3.5 mm with 1 thread Alpaca and 1 thread Silketweed (double thread) and knit 2 cm Rib. Change to needle size 5 mm and continue in pattern. Remember the knitting tension! When piece measures 19-20-22-23-25 cm cast off 3 sts each side for armhole and dec for raglan inside 4 edge sts in garter sts - see decreasing tip above: 1 st on every 4th row a total of 6-6-4-3-3 times and 1 st on every other row a total of 0-1-6-9-10 times. At the same time when piece measures 28-30-33-35-38 cm put the middle 16-18-18-20-20 sts on a thread for neck and dec 1 st towards neckline on next row = 5 sts left on each shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 30-32-35-37-40 cm.

Front piece (sweater): Cast on and knit as back piece. Cast off for armhole and dec for raglan as described for back piece, but after 3-4-3-4-4 cm cast off for buttonhole on the 4 edge sts towards the right raglan. Make another 2 buttonholes on every 3-3-4-4-4 cm.
At the same time when piece measures 26-28-31-32-35 cm put the middle 12-14-14-16-18 on a thread for neck and dec to shape the neckline on every other row: 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 1 time = 5 sts left on each shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 30-32-35-37-40 cm.

Left front piece (jacket): cast on 27-29-32-35-37 sts (incl 1 edge sts in side and 4 edge sts towards mid front) on needle 3,5 mm with 1 thread Alpaca and 1 thread Silke-Tweed. Knit rib in 2 cm, but work the 4 front band sts in garter sts. Change to needles 5 mm and continue in pattern. When piece measures 19-20-22-23-25 cm cast off 3 sts at side for armhole. Then dec to raglan in side as on back piece. At the same time when piece measures 26-28-31-32-35 cm put 10-11-11-12-13 sts towards mid front on 1 thread for neck. Then cast off towards neck on every other row: 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 1 time = 5 sts remains on shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 30-32-35-37-40 cm.

Right front piece (jacket): Cast on and work as left, but reversed. At the same time make button holes along front band - see explanation above. Cast off for button holes when piece measures:
size 1/3 months: 2, 8, 14 and 20 cm.
size 6/9 months: 1, 8, 15 and 22 cm.
size 1 year: 1, 7, 13, 19, and 25 cm.
size 2 year: 2, 8, 14, 20 and 26 cm.
size 3/4 year: 1, 8, 15, 22 and 29 cm.

Left sleeve (jacket and sweater): Cast on 30-32-34-36-38 sts (incl 1 edge st each side) on needle size 3.5 mm with 1 thread Alpaca and 1 thread Silketweed (double thread) and knit 2 cm Rib. Change to needle size 5 mm and continue in pattern. When piece measures 3-4-4-5-5 cm inc a st each side on every 5-4-4-4-4 row a total of 3-4-4-5-6 times = 36-40-42-46-50 sts. When piece measures 17-18-21-26-29 cm cast off 3 sts each side for armhole = 30-34-36-40-44 sts. Now dec for raglan each side inside 1 edge st – see decreasing tip above: 1 st on every other row a total of 11-13-14-14-15 times and 1 st on every row a total of 0-0-0-2-3 times = 8 sts left. Cast off, sleeve now measures approx 28-31-34-40-44 cm.

Right sleeve (jacket): Knit as left.

Right sleeve (sweater): Cast on and knit as left sleeve. When piece measures 17-18-21-26-29 cm cast off 3 sts each side for armhole. Now inc 4 sts on the right side of sleeve (button band, knitted in garter sts). Dec for raglan as done for left sleeve as follows: on the left side inside 1 edge st, on the right side inside 4 edge sts – see decreasing tip above. Continue and cast off as described for left sleeve.

Assembly (jacket): Sew all raglan seams; lay 2 row garter st from body piece over 1 edge st from sleeve and sew every st tog with small stitches, sew with Alpaca. Pick up (incl sts from threads) approx 67 to 81 sts (divisible with 2 + 1) around the neck on needle 3,5 mm with 1 thread Alpaca + 1 thread Silke-Tweed. Work rib with 1 garter stitch + K1 on each side towards mid front - at the same time dec evenly to approx 55 to 71 sts on 1st row. On 2nd row make 1 button hole over the other on front band. Cast off when neckband measures 2 cm. Sew sleeve- and side seams in one within 1 edge st.
Sew on buttons.

Assembly (sweater): Sew raglan seams except the one with buttonholes with Alpaca. Pick up approx 67 to 81 sts (incl sts from threads front and back, and divisible by 2 + 1) round the neck on needle size 3.5 mm with 1 thread Alpaca and 1 thread Silketweed (double thread). Knit Rib, at the same time adjusting no of sts to approx 55 to 71 on first row. On 2nd row make a buttonhole in line with the others. Cast off then neck measures 2 cm. Sew sleeve and side seams inside 1 edge st. Sew on buttons.

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SOCKS:
Size: 1/3 – 6/9 -12/18 months – 2 years
Foot length: 10-11-12-14 cm

DROPS double pointed needles size 2 and 2.5 mm
DROPS crochet hook size 2.5 mm

Knitting tension: 26 sts x 35 rows on needle size 2.5 mm in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm
Rib: *K1, P1*, repeat from *-*
Moss sts: 1st row: *K1, P1. 2nd row: P over K, K over P. Repeat 2nd row.

Cast on 58-60-62-64 sts on needle size 2 mm with Alpaca. Knit Rib. When piece measures 4-5-5-5 cm K tog 3 sts mid back, knit 4 rounds in Rib and K tog 3 sts mid back = 54-56-58-60 sts. When piece measures 10-11-12-13 cm change to needles size 2.5 mm and continue in stocking sts, at the same time dec to 46-50-50-54 sts. After 2 rounds knit next round as follows: *K 2 tog, yo*, repeat from *-*. Knit 1 round in stocking sts and now knit the middle 10-12-12-14 sts (= upper foot) in moss sts – put remaining 36-38-38-40 sts on a thread. After 4-5-5.5-7 cm pick up 10-12-14-16 sts on each side of upper piece and put sts from thread back on needles = 66-74-78-86 sts. Knit 1.5-2-2.5-3 cm in moss sts over all sts and P 1 round. Now cast off all sts of both sides of the middle 10-12-12-14 sts and continue over these in moss sts for sole. Cast off when sole measures 9-10-11-13 cm. Sew the sole to the sock. Crochet a chain in ch measuring approx 30-35 cm and pull through the row of holes.

Diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 10-25) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (21)

Fuchs 05.07.2020 - 16:56:

Je ne comprends rien à l’assemblage du col de la veste: poser 2 rangs au point mousse.... et continuer en cotes.... pouvez-vous m’expliquer avec plus d’amples détails pour finir la veste en /6 ans Merci d’avance

DROPS Design 06.07.2020 kl. 09:38:

Bonjour Mme Fuchs, vous relevez les mailles le long de l'encolure (y compris celles en attente) de sorte que votre nombre de mailles soit multiple de 2 +1 (ex. 81). Tricotez ensuite en côtes 1/1 avec 1 m point mousse de chaque côté, autrement dit, au 1er rang sur l'envers (après avoir relevé les mailles sur l'endroit), tricotez: 1 m point mousse, (1 m env/1 m end) répétez de(à) jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 2 mailles et terminez par 1 m env, 1 m point mousse. Bon tricot!

Fuchs 05.05.2020 - 14:30:

J’ai terminé les diminutions avant d’atteindre les 38 cm pour le dos; de ce fait je continue de tricoter jusqu’à 40 cm... est ce normal? Merci...

DROPS Design 05.05.2020 kl. 15:19:

Bonjour Mme Fuchs, possible, votre échantillon est juste en hauteur? Il ne s'agit que de 2 cm, ça devrait le faire. Bon tricot!

Marilyn 02.04.2020 - 21:43:

I'd love to make this pattern but it says I need to use Silketweed in addition to Alpaca. can I use just Alpaca I can't get the silketweed yard? What is the purpose of this second yarn?

DROPS Design 03.04.2020 kl. 07:50:

Dear Marilyn, this pattern has been updated to be worked with 2 strands DROPS Alpaca (1 each colour held together as just one) to get the required texture and colour. Happy knitting!

Marion 22.02.2020 - 15:17:

Kann man auch nur mit einem Faden/Wolle stricken? Wird das Strickstück dann dünner oder passt die Strickschrift dann nicht mehr?

DROPS Design 24.02.2020 kl. 08:22:

Liebe Marion, wenn Sie mit nur 1 Faden stricken möchten, benutzen Sie dann 1 Faden der Garngruppe C - es wäre dann die beste Alternative, wenn Sie mit nur 1 Faden Alpaca (= Garngruppe A) stricken, dann bekommen Sie die richtige Maschenprobe nicht und das Strickstück wird zu klein sein. Hier lesen Sie mehr über Alternative und hier über Maschenprobe. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Eeva Sumiloff 11.09.2019 - 11:38:

Hei. Olen loppumetreillä mutta kaulus tuottaa päänvaivaa. Mitä tarkoittaa: s-luvun tulee olla jaollinen 2 + 1 s:11a? Toivon pikaista vastaustanne. Ihana ohje. Kiitos ohjeistanne, niistä on ollut monesti apua. Eeva

DROPS Design 19.12.2019 kl. 13:57:

Hei, silmukkaluvun tulee olla 2 silmukalla jaollinen, lisäksi tarvitaan vielä 1 ylimääräinen silmukka. Toisin sanoen silmukkaluvun tulee olla pariton.

Sylvie 13.12.2018 - 17:33:

Bonjour je voudrais tricoter ce modèle de pull uniquement avec un fil drops alpaga ( Sky) nº4est ce possible en tricotant en 4,5 ou 5? Merci

DROPS Design 14.12.2018 kl. 08:08:

Bonjour Sylvie, ce pull se tricote avec 2 fils Alpaca (groupe A) que l'on peut remplacer par 1 fil du groupe C (par ex Nepal ou Air), Sky faisant partie du groupe B, il ne sera pas une alternative qui vous permettra d'avoir le bon échantillon. Vous trouverez ici plus d'infos sur les alternatives. Bon tricot!

Els Grootenboers 18.06.2018 - 13:25:

Hallo, Ik begrijp de beschrijving van de raglan niet. Ik brei voor een kind van 1 jaar. Moet ik dan elke 2e naald een steek minderen? Totaal dus 10 keer? Ik kom dan echter niet aan het aantal centimeters zoals afgebeeld. Wat te doen. mvg,

DROPS Design 18.06.2018 kl. 19:07:

Dag Els, Je kant eerst een aantal keer (volgens jouw maat) om de vier naalden af en daarna een aantal keer (volgens jouw maat) om de 2 naalden. Per keer dat je afkant voor de raglan kant je aan beide zijkanten af.

Els Grootenboers 02.06.2018 - 10:42:

Goedemorgen ik wil graag de baby-trui 10-25 maken maar zie dat het garen dat er gebruikt is niet meer bestaat. Kunt u mij adviseren welke kleur alpaca ik het best kan gebruiken om de kleur te benaderen die op het patroon staat?\r\n\r\nBij voorbaat dank,\r\nEls Grootenboers

Jannie Schymann 09.10.2016 - 11:33:

Jeg har strikket to bluser tidligere og finder opskriften perfekt og bruserne fine. Nu vil jeg gerne strikke den som trøje med knapper hele vejen ned i midt forstykke, men kan ikke i opskriften se, hvordan man strikker den ?

DROPS Design 10.10.2016 kl. 15:57:

Hej Jannie. Der mangler denne del i den danske opskrift. Jeg skal bede om at faa tilföjet dette. I mellemtiden kan du maaske bruge den norske version her

Sara 25.01.2015 - 10:59:

" auf ca 55-71 m abketten". Also so viele bleiben übrich.

DROPS Design 26.01.2015 kl. 09:35:

Ja genau, 55 bis 71 M sollen auf der Nadel übrig bleiben, wobei das Wort "abketten" hier nicht ganz richtig ist, es soll "abehmen" heißen. Die Anleitung ist schon älter und wird in Kürze noch einmal sprachlich überarbeitet.

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