DROPS Baby / 17 / 17

Woodland Blanket by DROPS Design

Knitted baby blanket in 2 threads DROPS Fabel with crochet edges in DROPS Snow

Measurements: approx 65 x 75 cm [25½”x29½”].

Materials: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
250 g color no 912, soft chocolate
And use: DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio
100 g color no 47, light beige mix

DROPS POINTED Needles size 5 mm [US 8] – or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st with 2 threads Fabel = 10 x 10 cm [4’’ x 4’’].
DROPS CROCHET Hook size 9 mm [M/13].

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.20 $ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 3.35 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 3.75 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns

100% Wool
from 2.85 $ /50g
DROPS Snow uni colour DROPS Snow uni colour 2.85 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Snow mix DROPS Snow mix 3.30 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Snow print DROPS Snow print 3.60 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.70$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

Cast on 102 sts on needle size 5 mm [US 8] with 2 threads Fabel. Work 4 rows garter st – SEE ABOVE. Continue in stockinette st with 2 garter sts each side.
When piece measures 68 cm [26 3/4’’] work 4 rows garter st on all sts and bind off.

Crochet a border with crochet hook size 9 mm [M/13] and Snow round the blanket as follows:
ROUND 1: 1 sc in first st, * 1 ch, skip 1 cm [3/8’’], 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 ch and 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round.
ROUND 2: 1 ch, 1 sc in first ch from previous round, * 1 picot (= 3 ch, 1 dc in first ch), skip 1 sc +1 ch + 1 sc, 1 sc in next ch *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 picot and 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 17-17) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (18)

Mel 03.12.2020 - 11:09:

Decke für Babys in 2 Fäden DROPS Fabel mit Häkelrändern in 2 DROPS Snow was bedeutet in 2 Fäden ist das einfach nur das der Rand in einer anderen Farbe gemacht wird oder muss ich Generell mit 2 faden Fabel stricken.

DROPS Design 03.12.2020 kl. 16:13:

Liebe Mel, die Decke wird mit 2 Fäden DROPS Fabel gestrickt (= Maschenprobe = 17 M x 22 R = 10 x 10 cm) - nur die Häkelkante wird mit 1 Faden DROPS Snow gehäkelt. Wenn Sie sich lieber für eine andere Farbe Fabel entscheiden möchten, wird Ihnen gerne Ihr DROPS Laden - auch telefonisch oder per Email - die beste passende Farbe DROPS Snow empfehlen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Fedorenko 12.11.2020 - 12:50:

Bonjour, Au début on doit monter les mailles avec 2 fils mais après on continue le tricot avec les 2 fils de Fabel ou 1 seul ?

DROPS Design 12.11.2020 kl. 14:12:

Bonjour Mme Fedorenko, la couverture se tricote entièrement avec 2 fils Fabel - sur la base d'un échantillon de 17 m x 22 rangs jersey, avec 2 fils = 10 x 10 cm. Bon tricot!

Ibi 13.01.2019 - 18:53:

Hallo, die Farben auf den beiden Bildern der Decke wirken sehr unterschiedlich, liegt das an den Lichtverhältnissen oder wurden verschiedene Garne verarbeitet? Ich würde die Decke gerne ganz ohne synthetische Anteile stricken, aber auf jeden Fall mit Farbverlauf, wie er bei dem hier empfohlenen Garn entsteht (entweder wie hier in braun-natur Tönen oder aber in verschiedenen rotviolett - blau Tönen). Können Sie mir eine alternative Wolle empfehlen? Vielen Dank

DROPS Design 14.01.2019 kl. 12:05:

Liebe Ibi, gerne können Sie unseren Garnumrechner benutzen, damit finden Sie Alternativen sowie Garnmenge. Mehr über Alternativen lesen Sie hier. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Linda Svensson 21.11.2016 - 22:02:

Ska man verkligen virka i den yttersta maskan på varv 1? Jag har gjort det och rätmaskorna i sidan och de rätstickade varven i början och slutet syns väldigt mycket. Har ni något tips på vad jag kan göra för att gömma dem?

DROPS Design 22.11.2016 kl. 15:44:

Hej Linda. Ja, det er meningen. Den eneste maade jeg kan foreslaa er at hekle i naeste maske saa ret maskerne kommer "under" kanten. Men jeg tror at saa kan kanten ogsaa blive lidt for tyk. Men pröv ad og se hvad du selv synes ser paenest ud :)

Cécile 21.09.2015 - 18:52:

Bonjour, Si je feutre les picots, seront-il toujours visibles? Merci!

DROPS Design 22.09.2015 kl. 10:49:

Bonjour Cécile, les picots pourraient rester visible, mais si la bordure en Eskimo feutre, elle risque de faire perdre sa forme à la couverture, il n'est donc pas conseillé de la feutrer, n'hésitez pas à demander conseil à votre magasin DROPS. Bon tricot!

Claudia 15.04.2014 - 11:21:

Hallo. Was genau bedeutet "Glatt mit je 2 M. Krausrippe auf beiden Seiten weiterverfahren". Ich stricke glatt ausgenommen 2 M am Anfang und am Ende der Arbeit, die sollen kraus gestrickt werden? Danke fuer die Hilfe im vorraus.

DROPS Design 22.04.2014 kl. 10:29:

Liebe Claudia, ja genau das bedeutet es.

Line Wamsler 06.07.2013 - 14:07:

Første gang jeg ser udtrykket 2 tråde: er det så jeg bruger 2 tråde i en maske, altså så tæppet bliver tykkere end hvis det var med 1 tråd?

DROPS Design 08.07.2013 kl. 17:08:

Hej Line. Ja, Du strikker med to traade hele tiden. Dit arbejde bliver da ogsaa tykkere end med 1 traad.

Helen 22.02.2013 - 17:01:

Hallo, ich hab auch Probleme mit dem Rand. Das Picot verstehe ich ja noch, abersoll ich dann tatsächlich eine fM und eine Lm und eine fM überspringen und erst wieder in die nächste Lm häkeln? Das gibt ein ganz schön großes Loch, so sieht das auf dem Bild gar nicht aus. Danke!!

DROPS Design 25.02.2013 kl. 08:29:

Liebe Helen, da es ein breites Picot ist (mit einem Stäbchen) müssen Sie wirklich diese Maschenzahl überspringen, sonst wellt es sich.

Juliane 12.01.2013 - 21:53:

Hallo, ich stricke zum ersten Mal mit zwei Fäden. Habe ich das richtig verstanden, dass ich dann einfach die Fäden von zwei Knäuel gleichzeitig verwende? Danke für die Antwort!

DROPS Design 14.01.2013 kl. 11:31:

Liebe Juliane, ja das ist genau richtig, es wird doppelfädig mit 2 Knäuel gleichzeitig gestrickt.

Clesse 14.04.2012 - 08:53:

Bonjour! Les explications des bords de couvertures ne sont pas très claires pour moi!! :1 picot (=3 ml, 1B dans la 1ère ml), sauter 1 ms + 1 ml, qu'est-ce qu'1B dans la première ml, ml oui = maille en l'air mais 1B?? Merci pour vos explications! Bien à vous

DROPS Design 16.04.2012 kl. 09:35:

Bonjour Clesse, 1 B = 1 bride, 1 picot = 3 ml, 1 bride dans la 1ère de ces 3 ml, vous sautez ensuite 1 maille serrée et 1 ml du rang précédent. Bonnes finitions !

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