DROPS Baby / 17 / 23

Summer Fruit by DROPS Design

Set of knitted jacket and hat in DROPS Fabel plus pants and socks in DROPS Alpaca for baby and children

JACKET:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size in cm: 50/56-62/68-74/80 (86/92-98/104)
Materials: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
100-150-150 (150-200) g colour no 903, yellow/pink mix.

HAT:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Head circumference: 40/42-42/44-44/46 (48/50-50/52) cm
Materials: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
50 g for all sizes colour no 903, yellow/pink mix.

PANTS:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size in cm: 50/56-62/68-74/80 (86/92-98/104)
Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
150-150-200 (200-250) g colour no 6347, dark steel blue.

SOCKS:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Foot length: 10-11-12 (14-16) cm
Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
50 g for all sizes colour no 0100, off-white.

JACKET:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm) size 2.5 mm – or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS WOODEN BUTTON no 513: 5-5-5 (6-6) pcs.

HAT:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) size 2.5 mm – or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

PANTS:
DROPS POINTED NEEDLES size 2.5 mm – or size needed to get 26 sts x 51 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.
ELASTIC: approx 60 cm.

SOCKS:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 2.5 mm – or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 2.30 £ /50g
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DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 2.50 £ /50g
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100% Alpaca
from 3.20 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.30 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.40£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.

GARTER ST (in the round):
K 1 round, P 1 round.
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JACKET:

BUTTONHOLES:
Make buttonholes on right front band. 1 buttonhole = K tog 2nd and 3rd st from mid front and make 1 YO.
Make buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE 1/3 MONTHS: 3, 8, 13 and 18 cm.
SIZE 6/9 MONTHS: 3, 9, 14 and 20 cm.
SIZE 12/18 MONTHS: 4, 10, 16 and 22 cm.
SIZE 2 YEARS: 4, 10, 16, 21 and 27 cm.
SIZE 3/4 YEARS: 5, 11, 17, 23 and 29 cm.
NOTE: the last buttonhole is made on neckline.

DECREASING TIP (applies to raglan):
Make all dec from RS.
Dec as follows in each transition between sleeve and body piece - beg 3 sts before marker: K2 tog, K2 (marker sits between these 2 sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.
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JACKET:
BODY PIECE: Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front.
Cast on 130-144-160 (176-192) sts (includes 5 front band sts each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 2.5 mm with Fabel. Work 4 rows garter st – SEE ABOVE. Continue in stocking st with 5 garter sts each side on front bands.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 3-3-4 (4-5) cm make buttonhole on right front band – SEE ABOVE!
When piece measures 16-17-20 (23-25) cm work 3 rows garter st on all sts (first row = WS).
Work next row as follows from RS: 31-34-38 (41-45) sts = right front piece, cast off 8-8-8 (10-10) sts for armhole, 52-60-68 (74-82) sts = back piece, cast off 8-8-8 (10-10) sts for armhole, 31-34-38 (41-45) sts = left front piece.
Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE: Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 38-40-42 (44-44) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with Fabel. Work 4 rounds garter st – SEE ABOVE –and continue in stocking st. Insert 1 marker at beg of round = mid under sleeve. When piece measures 5 cm inc 1 st on each side of marker on every 10-8-6 (8-7) round a total of 4-6-8 (9-12) times = 46-52-58 (62-68) sts. When piece measures approx 16-18-20 (25-29) cm P 1 round, K 1 round, P 1 round and K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME on last round cast off 8-8-8 (10-10) sts mid under sleeve (= 4-4-4 (5-5) sts on each side of marker) = 38-44-50 (52-58) sts left on round. Put piece aside and knit the other sleeve.

YOKE: Slip sleeves in on the same circular needle as body piece where cast off for armholes = 190-216-244 (260-288) sts. Insert a marker in all transitions between sleeves and body piece (= 4 markers).
NOW READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING BEFORE CONTINUING!
RAGLAN: K 1 row from WS and then continue in garter st on all sts. Now dec for raglan as follows:
Row 1 (= RS): 1 st on each side of all markers (= 8 dec) – SEE DECREASING TIP!
Repeat the dec on every 4th row a total of 9-10-9 (9-9) times and then dec on every other row 3-4-8 (8-11) times.
NECKLINE: AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 23-25-27 (32-35) cm slip the first 8-10-10 (13-13) sts on next row on a stitch holder for neck, work remaining st on row and then slip the first 8-10-10 (13-13) sts on next row on a stitch holder for neck. Cast off to shape the neckline each side at the beg of every row from mid front: 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 2 times. After all dec for raglan and neckline are complete there are 66-72-76 (86-90) sts left on row and piece measures approx 27-29-33 (37-40) cm.

ASSEMBLY:
Pick up approx 15 to 20 sts on neckline each side on front piece (incl sts on stitch holders) = approx 96 to 130 sts on row. K 1 row from WS, AT THE SAME TIME adjust no of sts evenly to 79-79-85 (91-97) sts (do not dec on front bands). Work next row as follows from RS: 5 garter sts on front band, * K3, P3 *, repeat from *-*, and finish with K3 and 5 garter sts on front band. Continue in rib like this, AT THE SAME TIME on next row from RS make 1 buttonhole in line with the others on front band. When neck measures 2-2½-2½ (3-3) cm cast off in rib. Sew openings under arms. Sew on buttons.
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HAT:
Worked in the round on circular needle and double pointed needles.
Cast on 98-105-112 (119-126) sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm with Fabel. Work garter st – SEE ABOVE – until piece measures 10-10-10 (12-12) cm and now continue in stocking st.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 15-16-17 (19-20) cm dec 14-15-16 (17-18) sts evenly by K tog every 6th and 7th st on round = 84-90-96 (102-108) sts. Work 3 rounds stocking st, and repeat the dec on next round with 1 less st between each dec (i.e. K tog every 5th and 6th st). Repeat the dec on every other round another 4 times with 1 less st between each dec = 14-15-16 (17-18) sts. Change to double pointed needles when sts no longer fit circular needle. Cut the thread, pull through remaining sts and fasten. Fold the bottom 5-5-5 (6-6) cm double towards RS and fasten.
Hat now measures 14-15-16 (17-18) cm.
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PANTS:
Worked in garter st back and forth on needle, in 2 pieces.

RIGHT LEG:
Cast on 52-60-64 (70-74) sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 2.5 mm with Alpaca. Work garter st – SEE ABOVE. When piece measures 8 cm inc 1 st each side and repeat the inc on every 1.5-2-2.5 (3-4) cm a total of 8 times = 68-76-80 (86-90) sts.
When piece measures 22-25-28 (33-38) cm cast off 2 sts at the beg of next row from RS, work remaining sts on row and cast off 2 sts at the beg of next row from WS, work remaining sts on row = 64-72-76 (82-86) sts. Now cast off 1 st at the beg of every row from RS (i.e at one side of piece = towards mid front) a total of 2-6-6 (10-12) times = 62-66-70 (72-74) sts. Continue in garter st until piece measures 40-46-50 (56-62) cm. Now work 2 cm stocking st on all sts and cast off.

LEFT LEG:
Cast on and work like right leg, but mirrored.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew seams on the inside of legs inside 1 edge st. NOTE: sew the bottom 4-5 cm with seam on the outside so that seam doesn’t show when edge is folded towards RS. Sew pants tog from mid front to mid back inside 1 edge st. Fold the 2 cm stocking st at waist double towards WS and fasten, leave an opening for the elastic. Thread through the elastic. Fold edges at bottom of legs towards RS.
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SOCKS:

HEEL DECREASES:
Row 1 (= RS): Work row until 6-6-6 (6-7) sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K1, psso, turn piece,
Row 2 (= WS): Work row until 6-6-6 (6-7) sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P1, psso, turn piece,
Row 3 ( = RS): Work row until 5-5-5 (5-6) sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K1, psso, turn piece,
Row 4 (= WS): Work row until 5-5-5 (5-6) sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P1, psso, turn piece.
Continue dec like this with 1 less st between each dec until there are 8-8-10 (10-10) sts on row.

DECREASING TIP:
Dec as follows before marker: K2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.

SOCK:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 44-44-48 (48-52) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with Alpaca. Work 4-5-5 (6-6) cm rib, K1/P1, and then K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME dec 4 sts evenly = 40-40-44 (44-48) sts. Now keep the first 18-18-20 (20-22) sts on needle for heel and slip the remaining 22-22-24 (24-26) sts on a stitch holder = upper foot. Work 3-3½-4 (4-4½) cm stocking st on heel sts. Insert a marker in piece and now dec for heel – SEE ABOVE. After heel dec pick up 8-9-10 (11-12) sts on either side of heel and slip sts from stitch holder back on needles = 46-48-54 (56-60) sts. Insert a marker either side of the 22-22-24 (24-26) sts on upper foot and continue in stocking st on all sts, AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st on each side of the 22-22-24 (24-26) sts on upper foot – SEE DECREASING TIP. Repeat the dec on every other round a total of 7-6-9 (8-8) times = 32-36-36 (40-44) sts. Continue until piece measures 7-8-9 (10½-12½) cm from marker on heel (approx 3-3-3 (3½-3½) cm remain). Now insert a marker each side with 16-18-18 (20-22) sts on upper foot and 16-18-18 (20-22) sts under foot. Continue in stocking st, AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st on each side of both markers – SEE DECREASING TIP - on every other round 4 times and then on every round 2-3-3 (4-5) times = 8 sts left. Cut the thread, pull through remaining sts and fasten.
Sock measures approx 10-11-12 (14-16) cm.



Diagram



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 17-23) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (63)

Hannele 28.04.2020 - 18:23:

Hei. Kirjoitin muutama minuutti sitten kysymyksen tuohon sukkaohjeeseen liittyen. Tarkennan vielä, että se koskee ensimmäisen kerran mainittavaa merkkilankaa. Sen jälkeen lukee, että tee sitten kantapääkavennukset.

DROPS Design 05.05.2020 kl. 14:29:

Hei, tämä merkki kiinnitetään kerroksen keskelle. Siitä otetaan myöhemmin jalkapohjan mitat.

Hannele 28.04.2020 - 18:14:

Hei. Olen 4.4.2020 kysynyt, että mihin sukkaohjeessa mainittu merkkilanka laitetaan. Odotan yhä vastausta. Alkuperäinen kysymys näkyy ylhäällä.

Hannele Hautaviita 04.04.2020 - 23:42:

Hei. Sukkaohjeessa lukee: Kiinnitä yksi merkkilanka työhön.Tee sitten kantapäkavennukset... Mihin tarkalleenottaen merkkilanka tulee?

Hannele Hautaviita 14.03.2020 - 21:16:

Hei. Voinko neuloa sukatkin Fabel-langalla samalla ohjeella? Täsmäävätkö silmukkamäärät? Terveisin Hannele

DROPS Design 19.03.2020 kl. 17:51:

Hei, kyllä voit! Neuletiheys on sama.

Pia 08.03.2020 - 14:32:

Avmaskning hals. Finns det någon instruktionsvideo hur det ska se ut efter att man sätter upp maskor på tråd. Förstår inte hur jag ska göra

DROPS Design 09.03.2020 kl. 13:46:

Hei Pia. Vi har bare en generell video hvordan sette masker på en tråd. På denne oppskriften setter du de ytterste 8-10-10 (13-13) maskene i hver side på en tråd og strikker og feller de andre maskene som beskrevet. Når arbeidet måler ca 27-29-33 (37-40) cm strikkes det opp ca 15 til 20 masker på hver side foran (der det er blitt felt masker) i halsen inkl maskene på trådene = ca 96 til 130 m og det strikkes en halskant. God Fornøyelse!

Suzy 03.02.2020 - 21:49:

Ich habe angefangen, das Jäckchen zu stricken, aber ich werde es wieder aufribbeln müssen... genau nach Anleitung klappt das Bündchen auf der gesamten Länge derart um, dass ich das Gefühl habe eine Wurst zu stricken statt einer Jacke. Gibt es eine Idee für Abhilfe? - Dämpfen funktioniert nicht, hab ich bereits versucht, ich weiß sonst keinen Rat.

DROPS Design 06.02.2020 kl. 19:13:

Liebe Suzy, versuchen Sie, 1 Krausrippe mehr zu stricken, wenn das Bündchen zu stark umklappt. Außerdem kann es auch helfen, wenn die letzte Reihe der Krausrippen nicht zu fest gestrickt wird. Ansonsten müsste Anfeuchten und liegend trocknen lassen, ggf. unter einem Handtuch, eigentlich auch helfen. Gutes Gelingen!

Rebecca 16.11.2019 - 22:31:

If I do everything according the description with the proper gauge, I end up with 121 rows in total (before assembly). that is not 33 cm, that is 35.5 cm. For 33 cm I would have to end up with 113 rows, but then the pattern does not match.

DROPS Design 18.11.2019 kl. 09:58:

Dear Rebecca, the bottom part of the jacket is worked in stocking stitch (with the bottom edge in garter stitch) and yoke is entirely worked in garter stitch, gauge is here given only in stocking stitch, while you will need more rows in garter stitch than in stocking stitch for same height. Make sure your tension is correct in both width and height in stocking stitch, and keep same tension so that you should get correct measurements as shown in chart. Happy knitting!

Vitaline 03.11.2019 - 23:26:

Bonsoir, Je souhaite faire la veste jaune en laine fabel 903. Il est indiquer de tricoter en jersey. Or, sur la photo on voit du point mousse. Est ce un jersey envers ? Avant de commander la laine, j’attends votre réponse. Cordialement.

DROPS Design 05.11.2019 kl. 08:09:

Bonjour Vitaline, la veste se tricote de bas en haut, d'abord en jersey, puis l'empiècement va se tricoter au point mousse, comme on le voit sur la photo. Bon tricot!

Trisha Cochrane 14.10.2019 - 10:23:

Thank you for your reply to my question about yoke increases - that's really helpful. I still think your instructions for the garter stitch on the bottom of the jacket are confusing. You say to knit 4 rows of garter stitch (on the sleeves you say 4 rounds), but the photograph seems to indicate there are 4 ridges. I wonder if there's some confusion around rows/rounds/ridges in the English translation?

DROPS Design 14.10.2019 kl. 10:48:

Dear Mrs Cochrane, English pattern is matching the original pattern, where you work 2 riller which means 2 ridges, and you have to work 4 rounds (K 1 round, P 1 round and repeat these 2 rounds)/4 rows (= K 4 rows) to get these 2 ridges. Happy knitting!

Trisha Cochrane 11.10.2019 - 22:32:

In the English pattern for the jacket, you have referred to knitting 4 'rows' of garter stitch when you mean 'ridges'. Could you correct this? But my real question is for the yoke after joining in the sleeves. You say to decrease on every 4th row. But since this is in garter stitch, do you mean every 4th ridge? Thank you :)

DROPS Design 14.10.2019 kl. 09:02:

Dear Mrs Cochrane, English pattern is here right, you knit 4 rows garter stitch to get 2 ridges. For the yoke you first decrease every 4th row = every 2nd ridge then every 2 rows = every row from RS. Happy knitting!

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