Harley by DROPS Design

Jumper, hat and scarf in Eskimo and Highlander

JUMPER:
Size: 3/4-5/6-7/8 (9/10-11/12-13/14) years

Materials: Eskimo
300-350-400 (400-450-500) g colour no 12, light blue
DROPS pointed needles size 8mm and 9mm

HAT:
Size: 3/5 – 6/9 – 10/14 years

Materials: Highlander
50-50-50 g colour no 11, turquoise
50-50-50 g colour no 12, beige-mix
and use: Eskimo
50-50-50 g colour no 12, ice blue
DROPS small circular needle size 8mm

SCARF:
Measurements: approx 14x85 cm – 16x100 cm – 19x115 cm

Materials: Highlander
50-100-100 g colour no 12, beige-mix
+ a remnant of turquoise from the hat
DROPS pointed needles size 10mm

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100% Wool
from 1.35 £ /50g
DROPS Eskimo uni colour DROPS Eskimo uni colour 1.35 £ /50g
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DROPS Eskimo mix DROPS Eskimo mix 1.55 £ /50g
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DROPS Eskimo print DROPS Eskimo print 1.70 £ /50g
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DROPS Highlander DROPS Highlander
90% Wool, 10% Nylon
Discontinued
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
JUMPER
Knitting tension: 10 sts x 14 rows on needles size 9mm in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm.
Rib: *K1, P2*, repeat from *-*.

Front piece: When only one number is mentioned this applies to all sizes. Cast on 35-35-41 (41-47-47) sts (incl 1 edge st each side) on needle size 8 mm with Eskimo. Knit Rib as follows (1st row = right side): 1 edge st, P1, *K1, P2*, repeat from *-* until there are 3 sts left, K1, P1, 1 edge st. Continue like this until Rib measures 6 cm. Change to needle size 9mm and continue in stocking sts, but knit the 5 middle sts as follows: P2, K1, P2 (as in Rib) until finished measurements. At the same time, on the first row after the Rib inc 1 st on each side of the middle 5 sts in size 5/6, 9/10 and 13/14 (do not inc in the other sizes) = 35-37-41 (43-47-49) sts. Remember your knitting tension! When piece measures 8-8-9 (9-10-10) cm inc 1 st each side and repeat the inc when piece measures 16-17-18 (19-20-21) cm = 39-41-45 (47-51-53) sts. When piece measures 22-24-26 (28-30-32) cm cast off for armhole each side on every other row as follows: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 0-0-1 (1-1-2) times and 1 st 1-2-1 (2-3-2) times = 31-31-33 (33-35-35) sts. When piece measures 31-34-37 (39-42-45) cm put the middle 5-5-7 (7-9-9) sts on thread for neck. Now dec to shape the neckline on every other row as follows: 2 sts 1 times and 1 st 2 times = 9 sts left on each shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 37-40-43 (46-49-52) cm.
Back piece: Cast on and knit as front piece, but after the Rib knit stocking sts over all sts until finished measurements. Inc on first row after the Rib and at sides as for front piece. Cast off for armhole as described for front piece and continue until piece measures 35-38-41 (44-47-50) cm. Now cast off the middle 11-12-13 (13-15-15) sts for neck. On next row dec 1 st on neckline = 9 sts left on each shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 37-40-43 (46-49-52) cm.
Sleeves: Cast on 23-23-23 (26-26-26) sts (incl 1 edge st each side) on needle size 8 mm with Eskimo and knit 6 cm Rib with 1 edge st each side in garter sts. Change to needle size 9mm and continue in stocking sts. At the same time after the Rib, inc 1 st each side on every 5.5-5-4.5 (6.5-6-5.5) cm a total of 4-5-6 (5-6-7) times = 31-33-35 (36-38-40) sts. When sleeve measures 25-29-31 (35-38-43) cm, dec for sleeve cap each side on every other row as follows: 3 sts 1 time and 2 sts each side until sleeve measures 29-34-37 (42-46-52) cm. Now cast off 3 sts each side 1 time and cast off remaining sts on next row. Sleeve measures approx 30-35-38 (43-47-53) cm.
Assembly: Sew right shoulder seam.
Neck: Pick up approx 36 to 45 sts (divisible by 3 and incl sts on thread) round the neck on needle size 8mm and Eskimo. Knit 5-5-6 (5-6-7) cm Rib – make sure there’s K1 mid front so that the Rib on neck follows the pattern on front piece. Cast off in Rib.
Sew left shoulder seam and continue along the neck – sew the neck in the outer loop of the outermost st in order the seam doesn’t become to heavy. Sew in sleeves. Sew sleeve and side seams within 1 edge st.

HAT:
Knitting tension: 10 sts x 16 rows on needles size 8mm with Highlander in garter sts = 10 x 10 cm.
Garter sts (on circular needle): 1st row: Knit, 2nd row: purl.
Rib: *K1, P2*, repeat from *-*

Hat: Cast on 45-51-57 sts on small circular needle size 8mm with Eskimo. Knit 4-4-5 cm Rib. Change to beige-mix Highlander and knit 4 rounds garter sts decreasing 3 sts evenly of first round = 42-48-54 sts. Now change to turquoise Highlander and stocking sts until finished measurements. When piece measures 17-19-21 cm insert a marking thread each side (= 21-24-27 sts between marking threads). Knit next round as follows from 1st marking thread: 10-11-12 sts, cast off 1-2-3 sts (= mid front), 20-22-24 sts, cast off 1-2-3 sts (mid back), 10-11-12 sts. Now finish each top separately.
1st top: Continue in stocking sts whilst inc and cast off for top as follows: Inc on each side of marking thread: 1 st on every 4th row 2 times and 1 st on every other row 3 times. At the same time cast off 2 sts each side on every other row a total of 6 times. Cast off remaining sts.
2nd top: Knit as 1st top.
Sew the hat tog at the top. The hat measures approx 24-26-28 cm.
Tassels: Attach a tassel to each top. 1 tassel = 12 threads of beige-mix Eskimo each measuring 16cm. Fold the threads double

SCARF:
Knitting tension: 8 sts x 18 rows on needles size 10mm with Highlander in garter sts = 10 x 10 cm.
Garter sts (back and forth on needle): Knit all rows

Loosely cast on 11-13-15 sts on needle size 10mm with beige-mix and knit garter sts until scarf measures approx 85-100-110 c. Cast off loosely.
Tassels: Attach a turquoise tassel in each corner. 1 tassel = 4 threads measuring 10 cm each. Fold the threads double and pull loop through the first st in corner, pull ends through loop.

Diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 12-6) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (10)

Fé Te Nuijl 06.10.2018 - 09:03:

Heb deze trui gebreid voor een kindje van 5 en een kindje van 3 jaar. In beide gevallen was de hals te krap om over het hoofdje te trekken. Heb veel meer steken opgenomen en heel los afgehecht. Doe ik iets fout bij het breien van de hals?

DROPS Design 11.11.2018 kl. 14:07:

Dag Fé Te Nuijl

Je hebt niks fout gedaan als ik het zo lees, de hals moet inderdaad vrij losjes gebreid worden voor kleine kinderen (die in verhouding een groter hoofd hebben). Mijn persoonlijke ervaring is dat er nogal verschil in kan zitten per kind.

Angie 04.08.2018 - 18:29:

When picking up stitches what does divisible by 6+5 mean?

DROPS Design 04.08.2018 kl. 23:23:

Dear Angie, it means that the pattern repeat is 6 stitch and you need to add 5 stitches to make it simmetric on both side. So you should pic up stitches in a number that, after taking out these 5 stitches, can be divided by six. Happy Crafting!

Jessi Bauer 19.07.2018 - 23:18:

Hallo Werden die beiden Spitzen nach der bind off mid front und mid back in geschlossenen Runden gestricket oder in Hin und Rueckrunden?

DROPS Design 20.07.2018 kl. 14:46:

Liebe Frau Bauer, jede Spitze werden hin und zurück gestrickt: es wird auf beiden Seiten der Markierung zugenonmmen und gleichzeitig am Anfang jeder Reihe abgekettet. Am Ende wird die Mütze (= die beiden Spitzen) oben zusammengenäht. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Christine Rider 20.03.2018 - 04:44:

Where is the beginning of the row on the hat, for the 2 sts bind for the top 1 and top 2? Is the beginning in the mid front and mid back? Is the top knitted in closed rounds, or in back and forward rows? Do understand it right and the markers are set on each outside?

DROPS Design 20.03.2018 kl. 09:12:

Dear Mrs Rider, the markers are on the sides, so that the first marker can be the beg of rounds, you will cast off the middle sts (mid front and mid back) and finish each tip (= part of top of hat) back and forth separately increasing on each side of the marker and binding off at the same time at the beg of each row. Happy knitting!

Van Laer Eloisa 11.12.2017 - 23:45:

Dankuwel voor uw uitleg. De merkdraden en het meerderen begrijp in intussen denk ik. Het afkanten aan weerszijden en hoeveel rijen een punt beslaat is me nog niet duidelijk. Waar juist kant je steken af ? Misschien wijst het zich wel uit al doende ? Het mutsje ziet er voor zover al geslaagd uit en ik wil de punten niet verknoeien.. ik ben geen beginneling maar ook niet gevorderd... vriendelijke groeten Eloisa

DROPS Design 13.12.2017 kl. 08:52:

Hoi Laer Eloisa, Je kant steeds midden voor en midden achter af. Als je de instructie gewoon volgt, wijst dit zich inderdaad wel.

Eloisa Van Laer 26.10.2017 - 19:13:

Ik zou deze muts graag breien voor mijn petekindje, is het mogelijk meer detail te krijgen over het breien van de punten, het meerderen en minderen is mij ondanks de reeds eerder gegeven uitleg bij de vragen toch niet duidelijk ? vriendelijke groet Eloisa

DROPS Design 02.11.2017 kl. 16:12:

Hallo Eloisa, Je breit de muts in de rondte en bij een hoogte van 17-19-21 cm beginnen de punten. Op dat moment plaats je ook de markeerdraden; deze zitten aan weerskanten, zeg maar boven de oren. Dan begin je bij 1 markeerdraad te breien, je breit 10-11-12 steken en kant dan 1-2-3 steken af midden voor. Dit afkanten doe je ook middenachter. Vervolgens brei je elke punt heen en weer apart van elkaar verder. De maarkeerdraad zit dan in het midden als je een punt aan het breien bent. Aan weerskantn van de markeerdraad ga je meerderen en aan beide uiteinden ga je afkanten volgens instructie, op die manier ontstaat de vorm van de punten er in.

Marilyn Raffaele 05.01.2015 - 16:26:

I am a very experienced knitter, but cannot understand the directions for making the top of the Harley child's hat. How do I increase on both sides of the marker and at the same time bind off??? Please help.

DROPS Design 05.01.2015 kl. 17:49:

Dear Mrs Raffaele, you have first to put 2 markers on each side (24-24-27 sts between each markers for mid front and mid back) - then bind off the mid 1-2-3 sts on both mid front and mid back, and continue each side separately binding off sts at the beg of every row, at the same time, increase at marker (in the middle of the piece worked). Happy knitting!

Paquerette Gagnon 11.12.2014 - 16:49:

Je tricote présentement le bonnet du modèle ci-dessus, j'ai ajouté 20 mailles au modèle de base, comment faire lorsque que je suis rendu à 21 cm pour continuer étant donné que je n'ai pas le même nombre de mailles. Merci de me le modifier.

DROPS Design 12.12.2014 kl. 09:18:

Bonjour Mme Gagnon, vous pouvez essayer d'ajuster le nombre de mailles à rabattre en recalculant en fonction de votre échantillon et de celui du modèle. Pour toute assistance individuelle, vous pouvez demander de l'aide à votre magasin DROPS où sur le forum DROPS. Bon tricot!

Charlotte Houde 06.12.2014 - 00:15:

Je veux savoir ou exactement mettre le marqueur. est ce que c,est sous la pointe dans le milieu de la pointe . plusieurs tricoteuses consultées ne sont pas capable de le faire. .

DROPS Design 07.12.2014 kl. 12:33:

Bonjour Mme Houde, vous place 2 marqueurs : 1 de chaque côté, espacés tous les 2 de 21-27 m), puis rabattez 1-3 m au milieu devant et au milieu dos, les marqueurs se trouvent au milieu des 20-24 m sur les côtés, vous augmentez au niveau ce ces marqueurs et continuez à rabattre les mailles de chaque côté à partir du milieu dos et du milieu devant (= au début de chaque rang de chaque côté de chaque pointe). Bon tricot!

Charlotte Houde 03.12.2014 - 02:00:

J'aimerais avoir plus d'informations sur les pointes . vous dites d,augmenter 2xts les 4 rangs et 3x ts les2 rangs et rabattre en même temps exact

DROPS Design 03.12.2014 kl. 10:03:

Bonjour Mme Houde, c'est exact, on rabat les mailles de chaque côté (au début et à la fin de chaque rang pour chacune des pointes), et en même temps, on augmente de chaque côté du marqueur (au milieu de la pointe) pour créer une longueur supplémentaire (= la pointe). Bon tricot!

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