DROPS / 98 / 32

DROPS 98-32 by DROPS Design

DROPS Cape and head band in Alpaca

Size: one-size

Materials: DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
50 g color #0100, off-white
100 g color #0501, light gray

DROPS HOOK size 4.5 mm/US 7 – or the size needed to obtain the correct gauge.

DROPS silver button, #534: 5 pcs.
Size: one-size

Materials: DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
100 g color #0501, light gray

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES size 3.5 mm / US 4 – or the size needed to obtain the correct gauge.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 5.30 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 5.30 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 5.60 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.90$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.

Crochet gauge: 15 dc x 7 rows with 2 strands Alpaca = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

Stripe Pattern: See chart M.1.

Crochet info: Replace the first dc at the beg of row with ch 3. Finish the row with 1 dc in the 3rd ch from beg of previous row.

CAPE: The cape is crochet from the top down. Loosely ch 93 with 2 strands light gray Alpaca. Crochet first row as follows:
1 dc in the 4th ch from hook, 1 dc in next ch, *skip 1 cn, 1 dc in the next 3 ch*, repeat from *-* = 69 dc (incl 4 dc's for front edge each side).
Now crochet 1 dc in each dc – read Crochet info – at the same time crochet stripes following chart M.1. After 5 rows of dc beg the inc (continue chart M.1 as before):
1st row: 1 dc in each of the first 9 dc, 2 dc in next dc, *1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, 2 dc in next dc*, repeat from *-* until there are 9 dc left on row and crochet 1 dc in each of these = 80 dc, turn the piece
2nd row: 1 dc in each of the first 10 dc, 2 dc in next dc, *1 dc in each of the next 5 dc, 2 dc in next dc*, repeat from *-* until there are 9 dc left on row and crochet 1 dc in each of these = 91 dc, turn the piece
Continue the inc like this, i.e. 1 more dc between each inc on each row until there are 168 dc on row (= 14 rows with dc and 1 repeat of M.1). Fasten off.

Crochet a border round the whole cape (i.e. along bottom edge, front edges and the neck) with 2 strands light gray Alpaca as follows: 1 sc in first dc, *ch 1, skip approx 0.5-1 cm / 1/4-½ inch, 1 sc in next dc*, repeat from *-* and finish with ch 1 and 1 sl st in the first sc from beg of round.

Put tassels along the bottom edge of the cape with approx 4 dc in between each as follows: *2 light gray tassels, 1 off-white tassel*, repeat from *-* all the way round.
1 tassel: cut 8 strands of Alpaca measuring approx 15 cm / 6'' each.
Fold them double and pull the loop through the last row of dc, pull the ends through.
Sew the buttons on left front edge, the top one approx 1 cm / ½'' from the neck line and the bottom one approx 1 cm / ½'' from the bottom. Use dc’s on the right front edge as button holes.



Knitting gauge: 22 sts x 30 rows on needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with 2 strands Alpaca in stockinette sts = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

Garter sts: Knit all rows.

Pattern: See chart M.2. The pattern in the chart is seen from the RS.

Cast on 52 sts on needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and 2 strands Alpaca.
Work as follows (from lower edge towards the top): 1 st in garter sts, K5, chart M.2 (= 34 sts), K3, P3, K5, 1 st in garter sts.
Continue in pattern like this until piece measures approx 54-57 cm / 21 1/4"-22½" – adjust to after a full or half repeat of chart M.2. Bind off.

Sew tog the seam mid back. Fold the outermost 6 sts each side towards the WS and attach.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 22.11.2012
New chart M.2 has been published


All measurements in charts are in cm.

= 2 threads off-white
= 2 threads light grey
= 1 thread off-white + 1 thread light grey
= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= put 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P1, K3 from cable needle
= put 1st on cable needle behind piece, K3, P1 from cable needle
= put 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K3, K3 from cable needle
= put 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K3, K3 from cable needle.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 98-32) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (33)

Rosalia Vancardo 12.01.2021 - 13:53:

Buon pomeriggio, ho bisogno di avere maggiore informazione in merito alla circonferenza della fascia del progetto Z-248,.ho un numero di maglia di 52 con 30 cm di lunghezza, come si fa per raggiungere una lunghezza esatta per chiudere il progetto?scusate ma non mi è chiaro la spiegazione, in attesa di una vostra risposta buon lavoro

DROPS Design 12.01.2021 kl. 14:59:

Buongiorno Rosalia, la fascia è lavorata in piano e poi cucita, non in tondo. Buon lavoro!

Rebecca 25.03.2015 - 02:11:

Hei! I oppskriften til pannebåndet står det at man skal begynne å strikke M2 fra første pinne. På første rad i M2 står det "sett 3 m på hj.p. bak arbeidet, 3 r, 3 r fra hj.p.". Jeg stusser veldig på at man tilsynelatende skal begynne å bytte om på masker man akkurat har lagt opp. Stemmer dette, eller er det en feil?

DROPS Design 18.05.2015 kl. 10:41:

Hej Rebecca, Jo men det går bra att följa mönstret! Lycka till!

Daniela 06.02.2014 - 09:51:

Was heißt ganz am Ende: Die äussersten 6 M. auf der Seite auf der linken Seite annähen? Welche Maschen sind hier gemeint? In einem Kommentar steht, dass die erste Reihe in M2 eine Rückreihe sein soll. Bin der Meinung, dass es schon eine Hinreihe ist, sonst müsst man ja in allen Reihen das Muster "umdenken". Danke!

DROPS Design 07.02.2014 kl. 07:35:

Liebe Daniela, die 6 M auf der Seite des Stirnbands werden nach innen gefaltet und angeheftet, damit ein schöner Rand entsteht. In dieser Übersetzung ist das nicht gut formuliert, wir werden das gleich ändern. Und ich bin auch der Ansicht, dass die 1. R ganz normal eine Hin-R ist, denn die Verzopfungen müssen in den Hin-R gemacht werden.

Kathy De Witt 28.11.2012 - 00:24:

Yes, I've seen you've made a change and it is coming out correctly now. Thank you very much. I am glad I persisted! Kathy

Kathy De Witt 21.11.2012 - 12:03:

Hi: I have followed the pattern, but the outermost stitches are the wrong way around. Please can you examine the pattern closely. Thank you Kathy

DROPS Design 27.11.2012 kl. 14:40:

Dear Mrs De Witt, pattern has been checked and diagram has been edited to match written pattern. Everything is now right. Happy Knitting !

Kathy De Witt 19.11.2012 - 12:44:

Thank you for your quick reply. This clarifies the pattern. I will give it another try. My daughter loves this head band. Kathy

Kathy De Witt 18.11.2012 - 11:27:

Headband: I am struggling with understanding the pattern: 1. do I start the first row bottom left or bottom right of M2 or does it not matter as it is symmetrical? 2.do I reverse K and P when I return on every other row? So, if it says to do a cable do I make the 3 K stitches and 1 P stitch into 3 P and 1 K? 3. the edge stitches - it says the first row you do is the WS but as they are K stitches it seems to me that it is the RS. Any explanation much appreciated. Kathy

DROPS Design 19.11.2012 kl. 09:47:

Dear Mrs De Witt, 1. diagrams are read starting in the lower right-hand corner working towards the left and return rows from the left to the right, but in that case it's symetrical. 2. in M2, 1 square = 1 st x 1 row, so that all K from RS will be P from WS and all P from WS will be K from WS. 3.in M2 yes, first row is WS so that cables are on the RS. Happy knitting!

Maxant 25.09.2012 - 14:33:

Bonjour, concernant ce modèle, je voudrais savoir si le diagramme montre uniquement les rangs sur l'endroit ou bien s'il montre les rangs endroits et envers ? merci

DROPS Design 25.09.2012 kl. 15:05:

Bonjour Madame Maxant. En règle générale et sauf exception clairement indiqué, dans nos diagrammes 1 case = 1 m x 1 rang. Le diagramme représente le motif, vu sur l'endroit, on y lit les rangs sur l'endroit aussi bien que les rangs sur l'envers. Bon tricot !

Carro 13.11.2009 - 12:22:

Jeg synes dette skulderstykket er kjempefint, heklet det på 3 kvelder (i litt andre farger) og det ble utrolig fint. Varmt å godt å ha på seg. Takk for fin oppskrift!

Robin 09.01.2009 - 22:08:

Im sorry I'm still confused are you talking about the neck band? Cause the picture does not look like it has a band on each side. where are the 4 tr supposed to go? Thanks

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