DROPS Baby / 13 / 2

Seaport Baby by DROPS Design

Jacket, trousers, hat, soft toy and blanket in Safran

Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size in cm: 50/56- 62/68- 74/80 (86/92-98/104)
Materials: Safran
Jacket:
150-150-200 (200-250) g colour 50, ice blue
DROPS circular needle and double pointed needle size 2.5mm
DROPS wooden button, no 503, 3 pcs

Trousers:
150-200-200 (250-300) g colour no 36, ice blue mix
Approx 50-60 elastic for waist
DROPS pointed needle size 2.5mm

Hat:
50-50-50 (50-50) g colour no 50, ice blue
DROPS double pointed needle size 2.5mm

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from 1.15 £ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension: 26 sts x 52 rows on needles size 2.5mm in garter sts = 10 x 10 cm. 33 sts x 34 rows on needles size 2.5mm in pattern = 10 x 10 cm.

Garter sts: Knit all rows

Pattern: See diagram M.1. The diagram shows the pattern from the right side.

Button hole: Make button holes on right front band from the right side as follows: Knit tog 2nd and 3rd st from the edge, 1 yo. Knit yo into back of st on next row. Make buttonholes as follows:
Size 1/3 months: 15 and 19 cm
Size 6/9 months: 16 and 20 cm
Size 12/18 months: 19 and 24 cm
Size 2 years: 22 and 27 cm
Size 3/4 years: 24 and 29 cm
Note! The last buttonhole will be on the neck edge.

Decreasing tips (applies to raglan): All decreases are done from the right side. Dec as follows in each transition between sleeve and body pieces (begin 3 sts before marking thread): K2 tog, K2 (marking thread is between these 2 sts), slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso.

JACKET:
Back and front piece: knit back and forth on circular needle – read the whole section before knitting it!
Cast on 163-181-199 (223-241) sts (incl 5 edge sts each side = mid front, knitted in garter sts throughout) using ice blue and needle size 2.5mm. Knit 4 rows garter sts (1st row = right side).
Knit next row as follows from right side: 5 edge sts in garter sts, M.1A over the next 150-168-186 (210-228) sts, M.1B (= 3 sts) and finish with 5 edge sts in garter sts. Continue pattern. When piece measures approx 15-16-19 (22-24) cm – adjust so that next row is from the wrong side and after 2 rows in stocking sts following 1 row with holes – knit 3 rows garter sts over all sts (remember buttonhole on right front piece – see explanation above.). At the same time, on 2nd row of garter sts dec evenly on row to 130-146-160 (176-192) sts – do not dec over the front band sts.
Knit next row as follows from the right side: Knit 31-35-38 (41-45) sts (= right front piece), cast off 8-8-8 (10-10) sts for armhole, knit 52-60-68 (74-82) (= back piece), cast off 8-8-8 (10-10) sts for armhole, and knit remaining 31-35-38 (41-45) sts (= left front piece).
Put the piece aside and knit the sleeves.

Sleeve: knitted round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 42-48-48- (54-54) sts with ice blue on needle size 2.5mm. Knit 1 round, purl 1 round, knit 1 round and purl 1 round. Now knit M.1A – begin by the arrow in diagram and insert a marking thread in this st (= mid under arm). When piece measures 5 cm inc 1 st on each side of the middle 3 sts mid under arm a total of 12-12-15 (15-18) times as follows:
Size 1/3 months: every 3rd round
Size 6/9 months: every 3rd round
Size 12/18 months: every 3rd round
Size 2 years: every 4th round
Size 3/4 years: every 4th round
= 66-72-78 (84-90) sts – incorporate new sts in pattern as you go along, i.e. purl the first 3 inc sts, knit the 3 next etc. When piece measures approx 16-18-20 (24-28) cm - adjust to after 2 rows in stocking sts following 1 row with holes – purl 1 round. Now knit 1 round whilst dec evenly to 52-56-62 (68-72) sts. Purl 1 round and knit 1 round, at the same time casting off 8-8-8- (10-10) sts mid under arm = 44-48-54 (58-62) sts left on round. Put the piece aside and knit the other sleeve.

Yoke: Put sleeves in on the same circular needle as body pieces where you cast off the armhole = 202-226-252 (272-296) sts. Insert a marking thread in all transitions between sleeves and body pieces = marking 4 threads.
Read all of the following section before knitting it!
Knit back and forth circular needle over all sts – remember buttonhole on right front band, see explanation above.
Raglan decreases: knit 1 row from the wrong side over all sts before starting the decreases. Dec 1 st on each side of all marking threads (= 8 dec per row) – see Decreasing tips! Dec on every 4th row: 9 times and then on every other row: 4-6-9 (9-11) times.
Neck: At the same time, when piece measures 22-24-28 (31-34) cm put the 8-10-10 (13-15) sts towards mid front on each side on a thread for neck. Now dec to shape the neckline on every other row: 2 sts 2 times, 1 st 3 times. When all dec for raglan and neck are complete there are 68-72-74 (88-92) sts left on row and piece measures approx 27-29-33 (37-40) cm.

Assembly: Sew the openings under the arms.

Neck: Pick up approx 96 to 138 sts round the neck (incl sts on thread) with ice blue and needle size 2.5mm. Knit 1 row from the wrong side. Knit 1 row from the right side whilst dec evenly on row to 79-79-85 (91-97) sts (do not inc over the front band sts). At the same time, make buttonhole on right front band above the others. Continue in rib as follows (1st row = wrong side): 5 edge sts in garter sts, *K3, P3*, repeat from *-* and finish with K3 and 5 sts in garter sts. When rib measures 1.5-2 cm cast off in rib. Sew on buttons.
_________________________________________

TROUSERS:

Right leg: Cast on 52-60-64 (70-74) sts (incl 1 edge st each side) using needle size 2.5mm and ice blue mix and knit garter sts. Insert a marking thread when piece measures 4 cm (= turn-up) and measure piece from here. When piece measures 4 cm inc 1 st each side on every 1.5-2-2.5 (3-4) cm a total of 8 times = 68-76-80 (86-90) sts. When piece measures 18-21-24 (29-34) cm, cast off 2 sts each side. Now dec 1 st on one side of piece (= towards mid front) on every other row a total of 2-4-6 (10-12) times = 62-68-70 (72-74) sts. Continue in garter sts until piece measures 36-42-46 (52-58) cm from marking thread. Now knit 2 cm stocking sts and cast off loosely.

Left leg: As right leg, but mirrored.

Assembly: Fold right leg double and sew inner leg seam within 1 edge st – Note! On the lower 4 cm (turn-up) sew with seam on the right side so that it doesn’t show when you turn it. Sew left leg in the same way. Sew together the trousers front and back within 1 edge st and sew the opening between the legs. Turn the 2 cm stocking sts at the top against the wrong side and attach with small, neat sts. – leave a little opening for the elastic band. Turn the turn-ups.
_________________________________________

HAT:
To fit head circumference: 40/42 – 42/44 – 44/46 – (46/48 – 48/50) cm

Garter sts: (on circular needle): knit 1 round, purl 1 round

Decreasing tips: Start dec 2 sts before marking thread: Slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso, K2 tog.

The hat is knitted round on double pointed needles. Loosely cast on 95-100-105 (110-115) sts with ice blue and needles size 2.5mm and knit garter sts – see explanation above. When piece measures 8-10-10 (12-12) cm continue in stocking sts. When piece measures 13-15-16 (18-18) cm insert 5 marking threads with 19-20-21 (22-23) sts between each. Now dec 1 st on each side of all marking threads on every other round – see Decreasing tips - until there are 15-20-15 (20-15) sts left on round. Pull a double thread through remaining sts, pull tight and attach. Fold the lower 4-5-5- (6-6) cm towards right side and attach each side with a couple of sts from the wrong side. The hat measures approx 14-15-16 (17-18) cm.

Earflaps: The earflaps are knitted from bottom up. Cast on 13 sts with ice blue and needles size 2.5mm and knit garter sts – insert a marking thread in the middle st. At the same time, after 2nd row inc on every 6th row a total of 7-7-7 (8-8) times as follows: inc 1 st each side within 1 edge st and inc 1 st on both sides of the marking thread (= 4 inc per row) by making a yo and knitting into back of yo on next row (to avoid a hole) = 41-41-41 (45-45) sts. After the last inc cast off loosely – earflap measures approx 8-8-8 (9-9) cm. Make another earflap. Fold earflaps double and sew to side and lower edge, there should be approx 11-12-12 (13-14) cm between earflaps mid front (sew earflaps on the inside of hat, 1-2 cm from lower edge so that the seam doesn’t show).


SOFT TOY: see pattern no 13-08

BLANKET: see pattern no 13-10

Diagram

= knit from RS, purl from WS
= purl from RS, knit from WS
= make a yo
= slip 1 st as if to knit, K2 tog, psso

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 13-2) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (26)

Annelie 13.06.2019 - 18:51:

Har precis börjat sticka tröjan, men tycker inte mönstret blir som på bilden. Ska det verkligen bli som rätstickning på rätsidan?

DROPS Design 17.06.2019 kl. 08:41:

Hej. Längst ner på koftan är det en liten rätstickad kant (=4 räta varv) och efter det börjar mönstret enligt M.1A och M.1B (de 5 kantmaskorna på varje sida rätstickas hela vägen). Lycka till!

Cissis 09.10.2018 - 11:18:

Brauche Tipp für die Mütze: nachdem man die Krausrippen beendet hat, mit Glattstricken weiterfahren. Wieviel cm stricken bis zu den Abnahmen? Es steht dort:" Wenn 13-15-16 (18-18) cm misst" bedeutet das, die Gesamthöhe der Mütze, dann hätte man nur ca. 3 cm gestrickt oder heißt das, noch 13 cm glattstricken? Das ist entscheidend! Wieviel mißt die Mütze in der Gesamthöhe nach der Fertigstellung? Vielen Dank.

DROPS Design 09.10.2018 kl. 12:15:

Liebe Cissis, die 13-15-16 (18-18) cm werden vom Anfang (= Anschlag) gemessen, dh Sie stricken noch 5-5-6 (6-6) cm glatt rechts (nach der Krausrippen). Die Mütze misst ca 14-15-16 (17-18) cm + die untersten 4-5-5 (6-6) cm von der Krausrippekante, die doppelt gefaltet wird. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Tanja Hoffmann 09.08.2018 - 21:20:

Mir ist aufgefallen, dass die Angaben für die Maschenprobe auf der Banderole ziemlich von der Maschenprobe bei diesem Modell abweicht. Auch meine Maschenprobe mit 33Maschen ist einiges breiter als 10cm. Kann es sein, dass sich hier ein Fehler eingeschlichen hat? Gruß Tanja

DROPS Design 10.08.2018 kl. 08:31:

Liebe Frau Hoffmann, die Maschenprobe auf der Banderole wird nicht mit der gleichen Maschenprobe gestrickt. Die Angabe der Nadelstärke ist nur eine Orientierungshilfe. Wenn Sie für 10 cm weniger Maschen als in der Maschenprobe angegeben benötigen, versuchen Sie eine neue Maschenprobe mit einer dünneren Nadelstärke. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Zitzmann 18.06.2015 - 09:42:

Ich stricke zur Zeit das Jäckchen und wüste gern: ab 16 cm auf 146 M abketten, soll das heißen, die Differenz zwischen Anschlag und 146M gleichmäßig verteilt abnehmen? Das wären in diesem Fall 35 M?

DROPS Design 21.06.2015 kl. 20:34:

Ja genau, es sollen 146 M auf der Nadel bleiben.

Anna 29.04.2015 - 20:08:

Det är ju rätstickning!

Annette Green 29.04.2015 - 15:10:

Det kan väl inte stämma att det skall vara 52 varv för att få 10 cm

DROPS Design 30.04.2015 kl. 15:41:

Hei Annette. Jo, det er rillestrik (rätst) paa en lille pind - og rätst traekker sig meget mere sammen end f.eks glatstrik (slätst)

Claudia 22.01.2015 - 21:59:

Grüezi. bin grösse 86/92 am stricken und nun am 1. ärmel. können sie mir den durchmesser des ärmels unten am bündchen angeben? er erscheint mir riesig und viel zu weit. passend für einen erwachsenen! besten dank!

DROPS Design 27.01.2015 kl. 23:21:

Im Muster vor den Zunahmen müsste sich ein Umfang von ca. 16 cm ergeben. Stimmt denn Ihre Maschenprobe im Muster?

Jenny Cyr 28.05.2013 - 12:15:

Bonjour, Je me demande comment faire les augmentations au dessous des manches? Je ne comprend pas le texte suivant...augm 1 md de chaque côté des 3 m du mileu sous la manche... Est-ce que c'est toujours à l'end, et si oui je voudrais que vous me précisez si je doit faire le motif ou toujours rester les mailles à l'end. Merci à l'avance de votre attention.

DROPS Design 28.05.2013 kl. 13:45:

Bonjour Mme Cyr, pour les manches on augmente 1 m avant les 3 m qui se trouvent au milieu sous la manche et 1 m après ces 3 m (= fin de rang/début de rang), les augmentations se tricotent au fur et à mesure en point fantaisie. Bon tricot !

Ienke 21.12.2012 - 22:47:

Het is een leuk patroon maar het lijkt me dat bij de beschrijving van de mouw elke keer dat er "tr" staat, "nld" moet zijn. Ook vind ik dat de bies in ribbelsteek korter wordt dan de rest in patroonsteek omdat het gelijk gebreid wordt.

Gerd-Hege 18.10.2012 - 20:22:

Veldig fint sett, skal nå øke under armene og er ikke helt fornøyd med økingen som står på mønsteret, øker på hver side av 1 merkemaske ,merkemasken følger deg oppover, menskifter fra vr til r ettersom hvordan det passer i mønsteret, på det meste får jeg da 5 vrange etterhverandre og ikke 9, bare et tips :-))

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