DROPS Baby / 13 / 11

Baby Sofie by DROPS Design

Jacket with round yoke, hat, soft toy and blanket in Symphony or Melody

Size: 1/3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months (2 – 3/4 years)
Size in cm: 50/56 – 62/68 – 74/80 (86/92 – 98/104)

Materials: DROPS Symphony from Garnstudio
Jacket: 150-200-200 (250-300) g colour no 09, baby pink
Hat: 50 g for all sizes colour no 09, baby pink

Or use:
DROPS Melody from Garnstudio
Jacket: 100-100-150 (150-200) g colour no 06, powder pink
Hat: 50 g for all sizes colour no 06, powder pink

Drops circular needle and double pointed needle size 5.5mm
Drops mother of pearl button, no 523, 5 pcs

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
DROPS Symphony DROPS Symphony
65% Wool, 35% Polyamide
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension: 16 sts x 21 rows on needles size 5.5mm in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm.

Moss sts: 1st row: *K1, P1*, repeat from *-*. 2nd row: K over P, P over K. Repeat 2nd row.

Buttonhole: Make buttonholes on right front band from the right side as follows: Cast off 3rd st from edge, cast on new st on next row. Make buttonholes as follows:
Size 1/3 months: 6, 11, 16 and 21 cm
Size 6/9 months: 6, 12, 18 and 24 cm
Size 12/18 months: 7, 14, 21 and 28 cm
Size 2 years: 7, 15, 23 and 31 cm
Size 3/4 years: 7, 16, 25 and 34 cm
NB! Also make a buttonhole on neckline.

Front and back piece: Knit the jacket back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Remember buttonholes on right front band – see above. Cast on 84-94-104 (112-122) sts (incl 10 front band sts each side, knitted in moss sts – see above - throughout) with Symphony or Melody on needle size 5.5mm and knit 1 row from wrong side. Continue in stocking sts with 10 sts each side in moss sts until piece measures 16-17-20 (23-25) cm. Knit next row as follows from the right side: 19-22-24 (26-29) sts (= right front piece), cast off 6 sts for armhole, knit 34-38-44 (48-52) sts (= back piece), cast off 6 sts for armhole, knit 19-22-24 (26-29) sts (= left front piece). Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

Sleeve: Cast on 20-22-24 (26-28) sts with Symphony or Melody on double pointed needles size 5.5 and purl 1 round. Knit moss sts until piece measures 4 cm and continue in stocking sts. When sleeve measures 6 cm, inc 2 sts mid under arm on every 1.5-1.5-2 (2-2.5) cm a total of 6-7-7 (8-8) times = 32-36-38 (42-44) sts. When piece measures 15-17-19 (23-27) cm cast off 6 sts mid under arm = 26-30-32 (36-38) sts. Put the piece aside and knit the other sleeve.

Yoke: Put sleeves in on the same needle as back and front pieces where you cast off for armholes = 124-142-156 (172-186) sts. Knit stocking sts with 10 sts in moss sts each side. At the same time, dec as follows: 12-14-14 (15-15) sts evenly on every 4th row a total of 6-6-7 (7-8) times. NB! Do not dec over the 10 moss sts each side. After all dec are complete there are 52-58-58 (67-66) sts left on row. When piece measures 26-28-32 (36-39) cm dec 10-12-10 (15-12) evenly on row = 42-44-48 (52-54) sts. Now knit 4 rows of garter sts over all sts, at the same time dec for buttonhole over the others on front band. Cast off all sts.

Assembly: Sew the openings under the arms. Sew on buttons.

Size: 1/3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months (2 –3/4 years)
To fit head circumference: 40/42 – 42/44 – 44/46 (48/50 – 50/52) cm

Cast on 54-60-60 (66-72) sts with Symphony or Melody on double pointed needles size 5.5 and knit 4 cm moss sts. Continue in stocking sts. When piece measures 10-11-12 (13-14) cm dec 9-10-10 (11-12) sts evenly on row. Repeat the dec on every other row another 4 times = 9-10-10 (11-12) sts left. Cut the thread and pull through remaining sts. Pull tight and attach.

SOFT TOY: see pattern 13-08
BLANKET: see pattern 13-10


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 13-11) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (8)

Marie-Christine 30.05.2020 - 14:46:

Bonjour ! J’ai besoin de votre aide au niveau de l’empiècement. Je ne comprends pas comment faire quand vous dites : reprendre les mailles des manches sur la même aiguille circulaire que le dos et le devant, au dessus des mailles rabattues pour les emmanchures . De quelle manière, placez vous les mailles des manches sur l’aiguille circulaire. Où se placent les 6 diminutions du centre des manches par rapport aux 6 diminutions du dos et devant ? Merci pour votre aide

DROPS Design 02.06.2020 kl. 09:23:

Bonjour Marie-Christine, cette vidéo montre comment on va placer les mailles des manches sur la même aiguille circulaire que le dos et les devants, les 6 mailles rabattues pour les emmanchures (dos/devant et manches) doivent se retrouver l'une contre l'autre. Bon tricot!

Odette 17.05.2020 - 12:29:

Merci pour les explications précédentes , pour l'empiècement j'intègre mes manches. ensuite c est inscrit de faire les 10 mailles en point mousse pour la bordure est ce exact étant donné que le reste de ma bordure est en point de riz.. modèle baby 13-11

DROPS Design 18.05.2020 kl. 08:39:

Bonjour Odette, c'était une erreur du modèle français, on doit bien tricoter les 10 mailles de bordure des devants au point de riz comme avant, merci pour votre retour, la correction a été faite. Bon tricot!

Odette 11.05.2020 - 02:52:

Bonjour dans le modèle baby13_11 je ne suis pas certaine de comprendre l augmentation des manches.. Augmenter 2 mailles sous le bras ça va mais ensuite,7 fois tous les 1,5 cm? Merci de m aider...

DROPS Design 11.05.2020 kl. 10:54:

Bonjour Odette, vous augmentez pour les manches tous les 1,5 cm 7 fois au total dans la 2ème taille, autrement dit, vous commencez à augmenter à 6 cm, puis 2ème augmentation à 6+1.5 = 7.5 cm puis 3ème augmentation 1,5 cm plus haut = 9 cm et ainsi de suite jusqu'à ce que vous ayez augmenté 7 fois au total, vous devez alors avoir 58 mailles. Bon tricot!

Lis 10.04.2019 - 13:05:

Hej. Jeg søger opskrift på trøjer til mine børnebørn på 2 år. Har kig på denne og baby 20-21, det er nogenlunde samme tykkelse garn og begge helt rundt. Jeg forstår ikke helt, den store forskel på maskeantallet 120 / 168? Håber at høre fra jer Med venlig hilsen Lis

DROPS Design 10.04.2019 kl. 15:06:

Hei Lis. Disse 2 modellene har ulik fasong: 20-21 har A-fasong og er en del videre nederst, mens 13-11 er like vid hele veien. Om du ser på målskissen nederst vil du se at genserne måler ca det samme i brystvidden. Strikkefastheten er også noe forskellig, så selvom det er samme garn vil du ha ulikt maskeantall for å oppnå de samme målene (siden det brukes forskjellig pinnestørrelse). God fornøyelse.

Paula Barbosa 09.04.2019 - 02:22:

There's an error on the Portuguese version for size 12/18 months, it reads cast on 101 instead of 104

Monique 14.02.2019 - 21:37:

Impossible de vous envoyer ma question toujours refusée

Pia Wettergren 03.01.2019 - 22:11:

Er rettelser påført opskriften, da jeg skal strikke den samme størrelse

DROPS Design 04.01.2019 kl. 15:20:

Hei Pia. Hvis du mener de 10 maskene som skal felles (fra kommentaren fra 2014) så er dette rettet: "Når arb måler 10-11-12 (13-14) cm felles det 9-10-10 (11-12) m jevnt fordelt". God fornøyelse

Idalia 16.07.2014 - 17:34:

Need your help in this pattern. I am knitting size 12/18 months. By the time you make the dec, you mentioned 0 I think it should be 10, pls let me know. Thanks a lot.

DROPS Design 16.07.2014 kl. 18:11:

Dear Idalia, you are correct, it should be 10 dec evenly for size 12/18 months (hat), pattern will be edited - thank you. Happy knitting!

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