DROPS / 52 / 7

DROPS 52-7 by DROPS Design

DROPS Raglan Sweater for men in Karisma Superwash

Sizes: Women’s Small - Medium - Large
Finished bust measurements: 114-120-126 cm
Men’s Small/Medium - Medium/Large
Finished bust measurements: 126 - 134 cm
Numbers in ( ) are men’s sizes

Materials: DROPS KARISMA SUPERWASH from Garnstudio
650 - 700 - 750 (850 - 900) g col. 01, natural white

DROPS 3 mm and 4 mm circular needles and 3.5 mm double pointed needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.

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100% Wool
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DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 2.20 £ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Gauge: 21 sts and 28 rows on larger needle in Pattern 5 = 10 x 10 cm NOTE: row gauge is very important during raglan shaping -- if your gauge is not correct your armhole sizing will not be correct.

Rib: * knit 2, purl 2 *. Repeat from * - *.

Pattern: See charts (1 chart = 1 repeat).
The chart is showing every row in pattern from the right side.
Note: On 1st row of M1, after K2, P6; make a cable over following 4 sts.

Rib: *knit 2, purl 2*. Repeat from * - *.

BODY:
Numbers in () = men's sizes. Cast on 188-192-200 (200-208) sts on smaller circular needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit rib for 5-5-5 (6-6) cm - on the last row inc 88-96-100 (100-108) sts evenly distributed on the row = 276-288-300 (300-316) sts. Change to larger circular needles and establish the pattern as follows (start at the marker): 26-29-32 (32-36) sts of Pattern 5, Pattern 2, Pattern 4, Pattern 2, Pattern 3, Pattern 2, Pattern 1 (this is the center front panel), Pattern 2, Pattern 3, Pattern 2, Pattern 4, Pattern 2, 26-29-32 (32-36) sts of Pattern 5, place a marker for the side, 26-29-32 (32-36) sts of Pattern 5, Pattern 2, Pattern 4, Pattern 2, Pattern 3, Pattern 2, Pattern 1, Pattern 2, Pattern 3, Pattern 2, Pattern 4, Pattern 2, 26-29-32 (32-36) sts of Pattern 5. When the work measures 34-36-37 (40-43) cm bind off 2 sts on each side of each marker for armholes = 134-140-146 (146-154) sts for front and back. Put the work aside.

Sleeves: Cast on 52-52-52 (56-56) sts on smaller double pointed needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit rib for 5-5-5 (6-6) cm - on the last row inc 22-22-22 (18-18) sts evenly distributed on the row = 74-74-74 (74-74) sts. Change to larger double-pointed needles and establish the pattern as follows: Pattern 4, Pattern 2, Pattern 3, Pattern 2, Pattern 1, Pattern 2, Pattern 3, Pattern 2, Pattern 4. Knit the pattern as established and at the same time inc 1 st each side of marker every 4th row 27-27-29 (29-29) times = 128-128-132 (132-132) sts. Knit the first 6 increases in Pattern 2 and the remaining increases in Pattern 5. When the work measures 50-49-49 (52-53) cm, bind off 2 sts each side of marker and put the work aside = 124-124-128 (128-128) sts.

Body: Put the sleeves in on the same circular needles as the body where 4 sts have been bind off = 516-528-548 (548-564) sts on needle. Put a marker in each transition between the sleeves and body = 4 markers. Continue pattern but knit the first stitch on either side of the markers in stockinette stitch (= 2 sts stockinette stitch in the transitions from body to sleeve). Knit 5-6-8 (8-9) rows then begin raglan shaping.

Raglan shaping:
Read the next section in its entirety before knitting!

There are 8 decreases per row (1 stitch on each side of the 2 sts in stockinette stitch).
Make the decreases as follows:
Before the 2 sts stockinette stitch: Right side: K 2 tog. Wrong side: slip 2 sts, put them back on the left needle twisted (one by one), purl the 2 twisted sts together
After the 2 sts stockinette stitch:
Right side: slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over (psso). Wrong side: purl 2 tog.

Dec 1 st each side of each marker every row 51-52-53 (53-55) times. When 8 decreases remain bind off for the neck in the front at the same time with the raglan shaping as follows: Put the center 20-24-28 (28-32) sts on on a stitch holder, then knit the rest back and forth on needle. Then bind off at each neck edge every other row: 2 sts 1 time, 1 st 2 times.

After the last decrease row 80-80-88 (88-84) sts remain on the needle. The sweater's measurement up to the shoulder = 60-62-64 (67-70) cm. Put the sts from the stitch holder back on the needle and pick up 10 sts on either side of the neck shaping = 120-124-136 (136-136) sts on needle. Change to smaller circular needles and knit 1 row, purl 1 row, knit 1 row and at the same time increase or decrease to 120-120-130 (130-140) sts evenly distributed on the row. Knit Pattern 6 for 9 cm - finish on 1st or 5th row of pattern, then 1 row *K 2 tog* across. Purl 1 row and bind off.

Assembly: Sew the 4 sts at underarm together.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 03.03.2006
On 1st row of M1, after K2, P6, make a cable over following 4 sts.

Diagram

= K
= P
= put 3 sts on cable needle behind work, K3, K3 from cable needle
= put 2 sts on cable needle in front of work, K2, K2 from cable needle
= put 1 st on cable needle behind work, K2, P1 from cable needle
= put 2 sts on cable needle in front of work, P1, K2 from cable needle
= put 2 sts on cable needle behind work, K2, K2 from cable needle
= cable: work over 2 sts: K 2nd st first without lifting it of the needle and then K 1st st. Then lift both sts of left needle.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 52-7) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (45)

Leveque 28.07.2019 - 20:21:

Bonjour, la plupart de vos pulls se tricottent en rond, mais c'est beaucoup trop lourd pour mes épaules et poignets bourrés arthrose. Serait il possible d'avoir les explication en 4 morceaux, dos, devant et manches à assembler par une couture. Merci de votre reponse

Anne Lystrup Andersen 16.07.2019 - 15:17:

Hej jeg har læst men ikke forstået rettelse af 03-03-2006. "På første p af M.1 skal man efter 2 r og 6 vr lave en snoning over de kommende tre m", burde det ikke være 4 masker og hvilken snoning? ( som over de andre 4 masker i diagrammet M?)

DROPS Design 30.09.2019 kl. 08:45:

Hej Anne, du behøver ikke tænke på det, da diagrammet i opskriften er rettet på nettet. Du laver først snoninger på 3 pind (nedefra) i diagrammet. God fornøjelse!

Elvor 24.04.2019 - 17:03:

Ursäkta mig, mem jag måste ha ett utförligare svar. Tack!

DROPS Design 25.04.2019 kl. 09:51:

Hei Elvor. Du begynner med 26 masker av M.5 (ikke M.1), det vil si du strikker M.5 tilsammen 4 ganger (=24 masker), og så strikker du de 2 første maskene av M.5 igjen (= totalt 26 masker). Videre strikker du M.2 over de neste 6 maskene, så M.4 over de neste 6 maskene, så M.2 over de neste 6 maskene osv. Med mindre det står et spesifikt antall masker, skal alle diagrammene strikkes 1 gang hver. Det er altså kun M.5 som gjentas flere ganger i bredden (i hver side). Håper dette hjalp. God fornøyelse

Elvor 22.04.2019 - 08:58:

Kommer inte igång med mönstret. Stickar dam, stl S. Fattar som jag ska sticka 26 m i M1, M2, och 52 m i M1, M2, till sist 26 m i M1, M2 osv. Tänker jag rätt?

DROPS Design 23.04.2019 kl. 09:52:

Hej. Du stickar först 26 m av M.5, sedan M.2 (=6 m), M.4 (=6 m) osv. Lycka till!

Gerrie 27.01.2019 - 11:22:

= Zet 3 st op een kabelnld en hou deze voor het werk, 2 r, 2 st r van de kabelnld Dit klopt niet helemaal volgens mij. Moet dit niet zijn: zet 2 steken op een kabelnaald

Karina Remming 21.01.2019 - 13:12:

Hej - jeg kan simplethen ikke forstå ærmet. Hvor strikkes M5? 74 masker i begynd er jo kun til det beskrevne mønster M.4, M.2, M.3, M.2, M.1, M.2, M.3, M.2, M.4. Og udtagningen...hvordan kan det nogen sinde gå op med M2 og så efterfølgende M4... ... og hvilken M2? Jeg kan slet ikke få det til at gå op.

Sigrún 11.01.2019 - 17:48:

Eruð þið með kuppskriftina af sömupeysunni en kvenna ? svo það sé sami hálskragi og á kvennapeysunni ?

DROPS Design 19.01.2019 kl. 12:22:

Blessuð Sigrún. Ég er ekki alveg viss um hver spurningin er en þessi peysa er gefin upp fyrir dömur og herra. Lykkjufjöldinn í () er fyrir herra. Virðist vera sami kragi á báðum peysum.

Birte Jakobsen 04.01.2019 - 22:51:

Der må være noget galt med str har strikket str large til en ung mand der normalt bruger str large ,men den var alt for stor så jeg måtte desværre pille det hele op når man ser på andre opskrifter med samme garn ,er der meget mindre masker Mvh Birte Jakobsen

DROPS Design 07.01.2019 kl. 07:58:

Hei Birthe. Denne modellen er noe romsligere enn de nyere modellene våre, men målskissen nederst på siden stemmer overens med strikkefasthet og maskeantall. Vi råder alltid til å se på målskissen ved valg av størrelse så man er sikker på at målene passer til mottakker. Om du ønsker modellen smalere kan du strikke en mindre størrelse, men for eksempel beholde lengden til M/L. God fornøyelse

Karina Remming 14.12.2018 - 14:51:

Syntes at diagrammet er svært at læse da det er utydeligt og småt. Er det muligt at få en bedre version?

DROPS Design 17.12.2018 kl. 14:29:

Hei Karina. Vi skal få lastet opp et tydeligere diagram snarlig. God fornøyelse

Pat 09.03.2018 - 22:09:

In the M.1 correction, Miossec asked this in 2011 and if I understood the answer (I do read French some), was told it could just be knit as per the chart instead of having a cable worked over 4 stitches which is what the correction says. Which is right and if it is actually supposed to be cabled, do you hold the cable needle to the front or the back? IOW which direction does the cable twist?

DROPS Design 12.03.2018 kl. 08:19:

Dear Pat, in the original pattern (Norwegian) you are working first row in diagram as shown, ie without any cables on row 1, you can work this cable on first row in M.1 (cross sts as next cables in M.1) if you like to or just do not work it and start cabling with row 3. Happy knitting!

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