DROPS / 87 / 4

Paris Mood by DROPS Design

DROPS jacket in "Silke-Tweed" with crochet borders in "Vivaldi" and scarf in "Vivaldi"

DROPS design: Model no. LL-011
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Jacket:
Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL
Materials: DROPS Silke-Tweed from Garnstudio
250-250-300-300-350 g colour no 08, beige
and use: DROPS Vivaldi from Garnstudio
leftover colour no 08, grey pink (for crochet border)

DROPS Needle size 3.5 mm.
DROPS Crochet hook size 3 mm.

Knitting tension: Remember needle size is only a guide 23 sts x 30 rows with needle size 3.5 mm and stocking st = 10x10 cm
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Scarf:

Measurements: approx. 18 x 150 cm

Materials: Vivaldi
50 g colour no 08, grey pink


DROPS Needle size 5.5 mm.
DROPS Crochet hook size 4 mm.

Knitting tension: Remember needle size is only a guide 11 sts with needle size 5.5 mm and Vivaldi and Pattern = approx. 10 cm in width.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension: Remember needle size is only a guide 23 sts x 30 rows with needle size 3.5 mm and stocking st = 10x10 cm

Garter st (back and forth on needle): 1 ridge = 2 rows. 1st row: K, 2nd row: K.

Increase tip (for sloping front): Inc on inside of 1 edge st in garter st and 2 sts stocking st (= 3 sts). All inc from RS! Inc 1 st by working 1 YO on needle – if you do not want holes in inc, work YO twisted on next row.

Decrease tip (for armhole and neck): Dec on inside of 3 edge sts stocking st (along mid front the outermost of these sts worked in garter st). From RS: Dec as follows after 3 edge sts: Slip 1 st K-wise, K 1, lift the sl st over. Dec as follows before 3 edge sts: K 2 tog. From WS: Dec as follows after 3 edge sts: P 2 tog.
Dec as follows before 3 edge sts: P twisted 2 tog.

Back piece: Cast on 89-97-110-120-135 sts (incl 1 edge st in each side) with needle size 3.5 mm and Silke-Tweed. Work 1 row K (from WS), then continue with stocking st. Remember knitting tension! When piece measures 10 cm inc 1 st in each side every 4.5 cm in total 5 times = 99-107-120-130-145 sts. When piece measures 33-34-35-36-37 cm cast off 3-3-4-5-7 sts in each side for armhole. Continue to dec for armhole in each side every 2nd row – see Decrease tip: 1 st 4-6-10-13-17 times = 85-89-92-94-97 sts. When piece measures 50-52-54-56-58 cm cast off middle 33-35-36-38-39 sts for neck. Continue to dec in each side of neck every 2nd row: 1 sts 2 times = 24-25-26-26-27 sts remain on each shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 52-54-56-58-60 cm.

Left front piece: Cast on 35-39-46-51-58 sts (incl 1 edge st in side) with needle size 3.5 mm and Silke-Tweed. Work 1 row K (from WS), then continue with stocking st but outermost st towards mid front worked in garter st to finished length. Read the following description completely before continuing! Increase for sloping front: At the same time after 1-4-7-10-13 rows inc towards mid front every 4th row: 1 st 27 times - see Increase tip. Side increase: At the same time when piece measures 10 cm inc in side as for back piece.

Armhole: At same time when piece measures 33-34-35-36-37 cm cast off for armhole as for back piece.

Neckline: At same time when piece measures 37-38-39-40-41 cm (inc towards mid front should now be finished) continue working as follows: * Work 2 rows back and forth over outermost 3 sts, i.e. 1 st garter st and 2 sts stocking st (the other sts on needle are not worked), then work 2 rows as before over all sts *, repeat from *-* up along neckline (this is so neckline does not tighten). At same time dec towards neck every row worked over all sts – see Decrease tip: 1 st 36-37-38-39-39 times. After final dec for neck there are 24-25-26-26-27 sts remaining on shoulder all sts are now worked to finished length. Cast off when piece measures 52-54-56-58-60 cm.

Right front piece: Cast on and work as for left but reversed.

Sleeve: Cast on 53-55-57-59-62 sts (incl 1 edge st in each side) with needle size 3.5 mm and Silke-Tweed. Work 1 row K (from WS), then continue with stocking st. When piece measures 16-14-14-16-14 cm inc 1 st in each side every 2.5-2.5-2-1.5-1.5 cm in total 13-14-17-18-19 times = 79-83-91-95-100 sts. When sleeve measures 49-48-48-46-44 cm cast off for sleeve cap in each side every 2nd row: 4 sts 1 time, 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2-3-3-4-4 times and 1 st 2-3-4-6-8 times, continue casting off 2 sts in each side until piece measures 55-55-56-56-56 cm, then cast off 3 sts 1 time in each side. Cast off remaining sts, piece measures approx. 56-56-57-57-57 cm.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves. Sew sleeve and side seams in one inside 1 edge st.

Crochet border: Work a border at bottom of sleeves and on body up along one front piece, around neck, down other front piece and around whole bottom edge with hook size 33 mm and Vivaldi as follows: 1 dc in 1st st, * skip approx 2 cm, 7 tr in next st, skip approx. 2 cm, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in 1st st at beg of round.

Jacket is closed with a brooch or badge.

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Scarf:

Garter st (back and forth on needle): 1 ridge = 2 rows. 1st row: K, 2nd row: K.

Pattern: 1st row (=RS): * K 1, 2 YO *, repeat from *-* and finish with K 1. 2nd row (= WS): K while at same time slipping YOs (= lost sts). 3rd row + 4th row: K. Repeat 1st - 4th row.

Measuring tip: Due to Pattern, lengths must be measured while piece held up.

Scarf: Loosely cast on 20 sts over 2 needles size 5.5 mm and Vivaldi (so that cast on edge will be elastic). Remove 1 needle and work 2 ridges. Continue with Pattern - see description above - until scarf measures approx. 140 cm – read Measuring tip. Work 2 ridges and loosely cast off – so that cast-off edge is not tight, work 1 YO after every st while casting off (YO cast off as sts), piece measures approx. 142 cm.

Crochet border: Work with hook size 4 mm and Vivaldi across both ends as follows:
1st row: 1 dc in 1st st, 4 ch, 2 dtr in same st, * 1 ch, 3 dtr in next st *, repeat from *-*, turn piece. 2nd row: 5 ch, 9 dtr around 1st ch, 1 ch, * 9 dtr around next ch, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 dtr in 4th ch from previous row.

Diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 87-4) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (9)

Vanessa Rawcliffe 12.02.2018 - 12:42:

Can u translate comments please

DROPS Design 12.02.2018 kl. 14:23:

Dear Mrs Rawcliffe, we are not able to translate every comment and every question/answer but you are welcome to use any online translator, even if it looks sometimes a bit weird, you can get the global sense of comment. Should you have any further question, you are welcome to ask here, or for any individual assistance, please contact your store. Happy knitting!

Marian Hoffensetz 19.12.2016 - 07:45:

Jeg glemte at skrive at det er ind mod midten.

Marian Hoffensetz 19.12.2016 - 06:22:

Jeg er I gang med indtagning på forstykket. Er det rigtigt forstået at det skal indtages også på vrang pinden? Med venlig hilsen

DROPS Design 19.12.2016 kl. 16:00:

Hej Marian. Er det indtagning til halsen du mener eller er det aermegabet? :)

Marian Hoffensetz 06.12.2016 - 20:10:

Jeg kan ikke finde det garn, denne trøje er lavet. Hvad kan jeg bruge som alternativ? Mvh Marian

DROPS Design 07.12.2016 kl. 10:10:

Hej Marian. Du kan enten klikke Udgået eller paa Alternative garner (Garngruppe A) for at se hvad du kan bruge i stedet. God fornöjelse.

Donatella 02.05.2016 - 20:21:

Ho un quesito generale da porre: le varie parti da unire risultano come "arrotolate" ai bordi. In altri modelli le ho stirate prima di unirle, ma poi le maglie sono diventate lucide e piatte: avete qualche consiglio da darmi a questo proposito? Grazie Buonasera

DROPS Design 02.05.2016 kl. 20:46:

Buonasera Donatella, di solito non si stirano mai i lavori fatti a maglia o uncinetto, ma si bloccano ancora umidi: per cui deve unire le varie parti e lavare il capo finito come indicato nelle istruzioni del filato, poi lo asciughi in un asciugamano e lo blocchi con degli spilli su un tappeto o materasso. In questo caso servirà anche a distendere bene il bordo. Buon lavoro!

Donatella 03.10.2015 - 10:07:

Non ho parole... grazie !! Oltre ad avere modelli per tutti i gusti, per tutte le taglie e filati bellissimi, trovo eccezionali le istruzioni che mettete a disposizione di tutti. Apprezzo molto la Vostra professionalità ed efficienza. Donatella

Donatella 02.10.2015 - 17:31:

Ho scritto la question nella sezione video, ma non vedo pubblicato nulla quindi nel dubbio- scusate!- la riscrivo qui: esiste un metodo per cambio gomitolo (lana sottile) senza avere code e nodi? Grazie

DROPS Design 02.10.2015 kl. 21:43:

Buonasera Donatella, provi a vedere questi due video per unire il nuovo gomitolo: . Buon lavoro!

Donatella 15.09.2015 - 16:32:

Buongiorno scrivo dall'Italia e vi seguo con passione: complimenti!!! Chiedo consiglio su alternativa a SILKE-TWEED: penso a uno dei filati con percentuale in seta simile a quello della foto e di conseguenza non so quale colore disponibile scegliere in modo che si abbini al rosa antico del bordo e della sciarpa. datemi istruzioni precise su COSA E COME ordinare (in questo modello manca il bottone "ordinare") vi ringrazio Donatella S.

DROPS Design 16.09.2015 kl. 11:06:

Buongiorno Donatella. Potrebbe sostituire il filato Silke Alpaca con il Baby Alpaca Silk oppure con il Lace (quest’ultimo molto sottile). Il tasto ordinare manca in quanto il filato indicato nel modello non è più in produzione. Al seguente link trova l’elenco dei nostri fornitori. Consultando il loro sito può verificare la disponibilità del filato e del colore di suo interesse. Il rivenditore stesso può aiutarla nella scelta del colore. Buon lavoro!

Kirsten M. Pedersen 01.12.2012 - 18:11:

Jeg er ved at strikke efter opskrift nr. 87-4, men har problemer med udtagningerne på forstykket. Jeg strikker størrelse M. Som jeg læser det, skal jeg efter 4 pinde tage 1 maske ud ved forkanten og efterfølgende på hver 4. pind, dette har jeg prøvet, men forstykket bliver ikke langt nok. På modellen er forstykket meget højere end ærmgabet. Hvordan skal udtagningerne strikkes, der må være flere pinde imellem. Venlig hilsen Kirsten Margrethe Pedersen Lotusvej 4, 1.th. 5250 Odense SV

DROPS Design 04.12.2012 kl. 10:02:

Hej, Jo men sørg for at følge strikkefastheden i højden. Hvis du ikke har nok pinde i højden på 10 cm, og bliver for tidlig færdig, så må du strikke et par pinde mere imellem nogle af udtagningerne.

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