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  1. Free patterns
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  5. 89
  6. 25

Beach Wedding by DROPS Design

DROPS Poncho in Vienna or Melody and Snow, with crocheted flowers in Cotton Viscose

Keywords: chunky knits, collar, cowl neck, floral, high neck, poncho, stocking stitch, top down

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DROPS 89-25
Sizes: S - M - L - XL/XXL

Finished measurements:
Shoulder: 98-106-112-120 cm
[38-5/8" - 41.75" - 44" - 47.25"]
Hem: 186-190-196-202 cm
[73.25" - 78.75" - 77-1/8" - 79.5"]

Materials:
DROPS VIENNA from Garnstudio
200-200-200-250 gr nr 21, natural
and use:
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio
200-200-200-250 gr nr 01, natural
and use:
Garnstudio COTTON VISCOSE from Garnstudio
Small amount nr 01, natural
Small amount nr 17, light beige
(For crocheted flowers)

Or use:
DROPS MELODY from Garnstudio
150-150-150-200 gr nr 15, beige
and use:
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio
200-200-200-250 gr nr 01, natural
and use:
Garnstudio COTTON VISCOSE from Garnstudio
Small amount nr 02, natural
Small amount nr 17, light beige
(For crocheted flowers)


DROPS 9 mm [US 13] and 12 mm [US 17] circular needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.

DROPS 3 mm [US C] crochet hook, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Vienna DROPS Vienna
91% Mohair, 9% Polyester 		Discontinued
find alternatives

100% Wool 		from 2.65 $ /50g
DROPS Snow uni colour DROPS Snow uni colour 2.65 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
DROPS Snow mix DROPS Snow mix 3.05 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Gauge:
Snow: 10 sts x 14 rows on smaller needles in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm
Vienna / Melody: 8 sts x 10 rows on larger needles in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm

Rib: * K 4, P 3 *, repeat * - *.

Increasing tips (for front and back): Inc by making a yo at each side of the center 4 sts (in Size XL/XXL increase at each side of the center 3 sts) at center front and center back.


Poncho: The poncho is knit from neck down. Loosely cast on 98-105-112-119 sts on smaller circular needles with Snow; join and place a marker at the join. P 1 row and then knit rib – see instructions above.
When the piece measures 13-14-15-16 cm dec all K 4 to K 3 = 84-90-96-102 sts. Continue until piece measures 26-28-30-32 cm, then K 1 row, P 1 row. . Change to larger circular needles and Vienna or Melody and knit stockinette st, decreasing to 68-72-76-82 sts on the 1st row. On the next row put 4 markers in work as follows: * 1 marker (= shoulder), 17-18-19-20 sts, 1 marker (= center front or back) – in Size XL/XXL put the marker in the 21st st, 17-18-19-20 sts *, repeat * - *. Measure the work from here.
Read entire next section before knitting:
Inc center front and center back: Continue in stockinette st, and inc every 3 rows – see Increasing tips – a total of 21-22-23-24 times.
Shoulder inc: Inc 1 st for each shoulder (alternately before and after the marker) every other row a total of 3 times.
Side dec: When the piece measures 9-7-6-5 cm dec 1 st at each side (alternately before and after the marker) every 9-7-6-5 cm a total of 5-7-9-11 times.
After all incs and decs are complete there are 148-152-156-162 sts.
The poncho measures approx. 59-62-65-68 cm from neck and down along shoulders, and approx. 74-78-81-85 cm from neck and down center front.
P 1 row (right side) and then bind off. So that the points will not roll, K 2 sts in each of the 2 sts at the center (in Size XL knit 2 sts in each st at each side of the center st) and bind off both sts.

Crocheted flowers: Make 3 flowers for decoration on poncho.
Large blossom: Ch 4 with natural Cotton Viscose and join into a ring with 1 sl st.
1st row: 1 sc in ring, * ch 2, 1 sc in ring *, repeat from * - * a total of 7 times and finish with ch 2 and 1 sl st in 1st sc at start of row = 8 ch-loops.
2nd row: ch 1, crochet as follows in each ch-loop:
* 1 sc, 2 dc, 1 sc *, and finish with 1 sl st in first sc at start of row.
Turn piece – blossom is completed from back side.
3rd row: ch 1, * 1 sc in sc from 1st row (crochet on back side of petal around sts from previous row, pull yarn tight), ch 3 *, repeat * - * a total of 8 times and finish with 1 sl st in 1st sc at start of row.
4th row: ch 1, crochet as follows in each ch-loop:
* 1 sc, 4 dc, 1 sc *, and finish with 1 sl st in 1st sc at start of row.
5th row: ch 1, * 1 sc in sc from 3rd row (crochet on back side of the 2 petals around sts from previous row, pull yarn tight), ch 4 *, repeat * - * a total of 8 times and finish with 1 sl st in 1st sc at start of row.
6th row: ch 1, crochet as follows in each ch-loop:
* 1 sc, 6 dc, 1 sc *, and finish with 1 sl st in 1st sc at start of row. Cut yarn and fasten.

Medium blossom: Crochet a small blossom in natural Cotton Viscose as follows: Ch 4 and join into a ring with 1 sl st.
1st row: 1 sc in ring, * ch 5, 1 sc in ring *, repeat * - * a total of 15 times (the loops will fit tightly in the ring) and finish with ch 5 and 1 sl st in 1st sc at start of row = 16 ch-loops. Cut yarn and fasten.
Then crochet a larger blossom in light beige Cotton Viscose as follows: Ch 5 and join into a ring with 1 sl st.
1st row: 1 sc in ring, * ch 10, 1 sc in ring *, repeat * - * a total of 19 times (the loops will fit tightly in the ring) and finish with ch 10 and 1 sl st in 1st sc at start of row = 20 ch-loops. Cut yarn and fasten.
Lay the smaller natural blossom on the light beige blossom and sew together.

Small blossom: Crochet the same as the larger blossom in the Medium blossom instructions.
Sew flowers on the collar – see photo for placement.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 89-25) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (53)

country flag Francis wrote:

Prachtige poncho ! jammer dat het zo doorzichtig is. als ik besluit om met naald 7 te breien, hoe moet ik dan het brei patroon aanpassen? groetjes.

02.03.2021 - 04:46

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Francis,

Helaas is het voor ons niet mogelijk om patronen naar persoonlijke wensen aan te passen. Wanneer je een proeflapje maakt met naald 7 kun je op basis van de stekenverhouding het aantal steken uitrekenen.

09.03.2021 - 11:12

country flag Chhavi Methi wrote:

Thank you fir responding to my earlier question. My piece is coming our beautiful. There was another question on the decrease aspect. Are we decreasing only on the marker at the start to f the round and alternately before and after? Wont this tilt the piece to one side? Thank you in advance

10.02.2021 - 03:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Methi, the decreases on the sides (as the increases at the shoulders) are worked alternately before/after the marker, this means you first decrease before the markers, then next decrease will be worke after the markers (= there are 2 markers to increase/decrease at, you increase 2 sts on each shoulder/decrease 2 sts on each side). Happy knitting!

10.02.2021 - 07:14

country flag Chhavi Methi wrote:

Hi Just need to know a couple of things, We are increasing for shoulder, on the left side of the market and the right side ? So at every marker we are increasing two stitches? We are increasing 8 stitches every shoulder row increase? And only on either side of middle stitches on the front and cross back we increasing 2 stitches? And total of 4 stitches ever front and back increases? So at one time we are increasing 12 rows?? Thanks

08.02.2021 - 14:11

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Methi, on the shoulders you will increase alternately after and before the marker, this means 1 st increased at each marker on shoulder, first time you will increase after the marker, next time after the marker (= 2 sts inc per round) = 2 sts increased on every other round a total of 3 times. And you will increase 2 sts on mid front + 2 sts on mid back on every 4th round. You will first increase 6 sts (mid front/back + shoulder), then 2 rounds after you increase 2 sts (shoulders), then 2 rounds after you increase 6 sts and then only 4 sts on every 4th round (until you have increased a total of 21-21-23-24 times on mid front/mid back). Happy knitting!

08.02.2021 - 15:27

country flag Josée Potvin wrote:

Bonjour Myriam! Je suis rendue complètement à la fin du poncho, je bloque sur la directive suivante: ''pour que les pointes ne roulent pas, tricoter 2 m dans chacune des 2 m du milieu et rab ces 2 m. ...'' Est-ce qu'on fait cela pendant qu'on est en train de rabattre toutes les mailles ou bien après? J'ai besoin d'un peu plus de précisions sur cette étape. Merci beaucoup! En passant, le projet est magnifique!

27.12.2020 - 01:12

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Potvin, vous allez tricoter 2 fois les 2 mailles centrales au moment de les rabattre, ainsi la pointe sera plus marquée. Dans cette vidéo, nous montrons le même principe, mais en faisant des jetés au lieu de tricoter 2 fois la même maille. Bon tricot!

04.01.2021 - 09:25

country flag Sandra Schniederjann wrote:

Wird der Poncho am Anfang beim Kragen als Runde geschlossen?

13.10.2020 - 13:38

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Schniederjann, der Poncho wird von oben nach unten in Runden gestrickt, dh vom Kragen schon. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

13.10.2020 - 16:10

country flag Angie wrote:

Ich verstehe die Zu- und Abnahmen leider immernoch nicht. Rechts und links neben den 4 mittleren Maschen? ich habe doch jeweils vorne und hinten nur eine Mittlere Masche... auch die Schulter Ab und Zunahmen....

01.10.2020 - 14:10

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Angie, es wird in der Mitte vom Vorder- + Rückenteil beiseitig von den 4 (oder nur 3) mitteleren Maschen zugenommen - und es wird auch für den Schultern 1 Masche zuerst vor der Markierung, dann nächstes Mal nach der Markieurng (und immer diese 2 Zunahmen wiederholen) zugenommen (= 1 Zunahme bei jedem Schulter). Dann wird es für die Seiten abgenommen (erstes Mal vor der Markierung, nächstes Mal nach der Markierung und die beiden Abnahme wiederholen). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

01.10.2020 - 16:05

country flag Jelena Ivanova wrote:

Dear Madam/Sir, I do not understand what it means Rib: * K 4, P 3 *, repeat * - *. could you send a knitting pattern please Kind Regards, Elena

09.08.2019 - 05:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Ivanonva, when you work rib *K4, P3,* you will work alternately 4 knit stitches and 3 purl stitches, since you are working in the round, you will repeat this pattern in height, ie on next rounds work K over K and P over P. Happy knitting!

09.08.2019 - 08:27

country flag Yvonne Krause-Nielinger wrote:

Hallo! Könnten Sie mir diesen wunderschönen Poncho auch fertig gestrickt liefern? Bin leider absolut unfähig was stricken angeht. Viele Grüße Yvonne Krause

02.07.2019 - 10:46

country flag Monica wrote:

Mi sono avvicinata alla maglieria dopo tanti anni e nel vostro sito ho trovato dei suggerimenti interessanti. Grazie

20.03.2019 - 22:30

country flag Monica wrote:

Ciao, sto cercando di realizzare questo bellissimo poncho, ma non capisco bene gli aumenti. Devo aumentare sempre prima e dopo il marcatore sulle spalle? E sul davanti devo aumentare solo una maglia alla volta? Grazie se mi risponderete. Monica .

20.03.2019 - 22:29

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Monica. Sulle spalle alterna gli aumenti una volta prima e una volta dopo il marcatore. Al centro sul davanti e sul dietro, aumenta facendo 1 maglia gettata prima delle 4 maglie centrali (3 maglie centrali per la taglia più grande) e 1 maglia gettata dopo le 4 maglie centrali (3 maglie centrali nella taglia più grande). Buon lavoro!

21.03.2019 - 08:29

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