DROPS / 88 / 26

DROPS 88-26 by DROPS Design

Children’s knitted jumper with raglan and crochet hat in "Ice"

DROPS design: Pattern no TT-001-bn
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Jumper:

Sizes:
5/6 years- 7/8 years - 9/10 years -11/12 years -13/14 years
110/116-122/128-134/140-146/152-158/164 cm

Materials: DROPS Ice from Garnstudio
300-350-350-400-450 g colour no 03, ice blue
1 small left-over for crochet edge, colour no 15, apple green

DROPS Circular needle size 8 and 9 mm.
DROPS Double pointed needles size 8 and 9 mm.
DROPS Crochet hook size 6 mm.
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DROPS Ice DROPS Ice
55% Cotton, 45% Acrylic
Discontinued
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension: Remember needle size is only a guide. 10 stitches x 14 rows with needle size 9 mm and stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
Rib: * K4, P4 *, repeat from *-*.

Decrease tip (for raglan):
All decreases are worked from the right side!
Decrease as follows in transition between sleeves and body (start 3 stitches before marker thread): K2 together, K2 (marker thread sits in middle of these 2 stitches),
slip 1 stitch as if to knit, K1, pass slipped stitch over.

Knitting tip: If your knitting tension is not correct in height and you work too tightly, the decreases for raglan will be too short and the armhole too small. You can adjust by working 1 extra round without decreases regularly between decreases.
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Body: Loosely cast on 64-72-80-88-96 stitches with circular needle size 8 mm and ice blue Ice and knit 1 round. Then work rib until piece measures 4 cm. Insert 1 marker thread in each side. Change to circular needle size 9 mm and continue with stocking stitch at the same time as you adjust the number of stitches to 68-72-80-88-92 stitches on first round after rib. Remember the knitting tension! When piece measures 16 cm increase 1 stitch on each side of marker threads in each side = 72-76-84-92-96 stitches. When piece measures 23-25-27-28-29 cm cast off 6 stitches in each side for armholes (i.e. 3 stitches on each side of marker threads) = 30-32-36-40-42 stitches left on front and back pieces. Lay piece to one side and work sleeves.

Sleeve: Loosely cast on 16-16-16-24-24 stitches with double pointed needles size 8 mm and ice blue Ice and knit 1 round. Then work rib until piece measures 6 cm. Change to double pointed needles size 9 mm and continue with stocking stitch at the same time as the number of stitches is adjusted to 16-18-20-24-24 stitches on first round after rib. When piece measures 10 cm increase 2 stitches mid under sleeve every 8-8.5-10-16-12 cm a total of 4-4-4-3-4 times = 24-26-28-30-32 stitches. When sleeve measures 36-40-44-46-49 cm cast off 6 stitches mid under sleeve = 18-20-22-24-26 stitches. Lay piece to one side and work 1 more sleeve.

Yoke: Place sleeves on same circular needle as body where you cast off stitches for armholes = 96-104-116-128-136 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in all transitions between body and sleeves (= 4 marker threads). Work 0-0-1-1-0 round before starting to decrease.
Read the next 2 paragraphs before continuing.

Raglan decreases: Read Knitting tip! Decrease 1 stitch on each side of all marker threads (= 8 decreases). Decrease every 4th round - see Decrease tip: 1 stitch 3-3-2-2-2 times and then every 2nd round: 1 stitch 3-4-6-7-8 times.

Neckline: At the same time, when piece measures 29-32-34-36-38 cm place the middle 6-6-6-8-8 stitches on 1 thread for neck, then decrease towards neck every 2nd row: 1 stitch 4 times.
After all the decreases to raglan and neck there are 34-34-38-40-40 stitches left on needle.

Neck: Knit up 14 to 18 stitches (incl. stitches from thread) in the front of neck with ice blue Ice and place all stitches on double pointed needles size 8 mm = approx. 48 to 58 stitches. Work 3 rounds stocking stitch at the same time as the number of stitches is adjusted to 40-40-41-45-46 stitches on first round. Cast off – so the cast-off edge is not tight, you can make 1 yarn over after approx. every 5th stitch at the same time as you cast off (cast off the yarn overs as well).

Assembly: Sew openings under sleeves.
Crochet edge: Work with hook size 6 mm and apple green Ice around neckline as follows: 1 double crochet in first stitch, * 5 chain stitches, skip 2 stitches, 1 double crochet in next stitch *, repeat from *-* and finish with 5 chain stitches and 1 slip stitch in first stitch at beginning of round.




HAT:

Sizes: 5/8 (9/14) years
Materials: Ice
50 g colour no 15, apple green
a left-over of following colours:
no 04, beige, no 11 green and no 16, mint.
DROPS Crochet hook size 6 mm.
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Crochet 8 chain stitches with hook size 6 mm and apple green and form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch.
Round 1: 6 chain stitches (= 1 double treble crochet + 2 chain stitches) * 1 double treble crochet around ring, 2 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* a total of 7 (8) times and finish with 1 slip stitch in the 4th chain stitch at beginning of round = 8 (9) chain-spaces.
Round 2: 6 chain stitches (= 1 double treble crochet + 2 chain stitches), in each double treble crochet work: * 1 double treble crochet, 2 chain stitches, 1 double treble crochet, 2 chain stitches *, and finish with 1 double treble crochet in last slip stitch from the previous round, 2 chain stitches and 1 slip stitch in the 4th chain stitch at beginning of round = 8 (9) double treble crochet-groups.
Rounds 3-4 (3-5): 6 chain stitches (= 1 double treble crochet + 2 chain stitches), in each double treble crochet work: * 1 double treble crochet, 2 chain stitches *, and finish with 1 slip stitch in the 4th chain stitch at beginning of round = 16 (18) double treble crochets.
Round 5 (6): 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in the first treble crochet, * 4 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in the next treble crochet *, repeat from *-* and finish with 4 chain stitches and 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch at beginning of round. Cut and fasten threads.

Edges:
Border-1: Work with mint in the chain-spaces on row 5 (6) as follows: * 1 double crochet around the chain-space, 4 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet at beginning of round.
Border-2: Work with beige in chain-spaces on row 4 (5) as follows: * 1 double crochet around chain-space, 4 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet at beginning of round.
Border-3: Work with green in the chain-spaces on the same row as Border-2 as follows: * 1 double crochet around chain-space, 4 chain stitches, 1 double treble crochet in the first of the 4 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet at beginning of round.

Diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 88-26) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (10)

Fernande 07.11.2019 - 20:56:

88-26 -Je suis rendue au Col de ce chandail... J'ai relevé les mailles en attente..... et là ...oh.la.la... les explications ne me suffisent pas... pouvez-vous m'aider.... merci .. je suis à mon 1er pull......

DROPS Design 08.11.2019 kl. 08:55:

Bonjour Fernande, reprenez les mailles de la fin de l'empiècement et relevez des mailles dans celles de l'encolure (les 6-8 mises en attente + les 4 m diminuées de chaque côté = 14-18 m au total), vous devez maintenant avoir environ 40-48 m au total. Tricotez maintenant en rond en jersey pendant 3 tours, en même temps, au 1er rang, ajuster le nombre de mailles (en diminuant ou augmentant) à 40-41-45-46 m. Rabattez toutes les mailles avec 1 jeté toutes les 5 m (pas envers, correction faite) comme dans cette vidéo. Bon tricot!

Cova 13.04.2016 - 12:21:

Muchas gracias por las aclaraciones. Entiendo entonces que trabajo ida y vuelta por separado cada parte del delantero (raglan y disminuciones) osea los puntos que quedan repartidos en dos grupos al dejar 6 en un gancho auxiliar. ¿Es así?

DROPS Design 13.04.2016 kl. 12:43:

Hola Cova. Cuando empiezas con el raglán tienes todas las partes del jersey en la misma aguja. Ahora los 6 pts centrales quedan apartados en un gancho aux y vas a trabajar de ida y vta en los pts restantes (es decir la parte del delantero, la manga, la espalda, la otra manga y la otra parte del delantero)

Cova 11.04.2016 - 12:45:

Buenos días, vuelvo a atascarme ;-( He acabado con el RAGLA, tengo 48 puntos en la aguja circular. ¿Cómo sigo el ESCOTE? ¿dejo 6 puntos de los 48 o de 24 en espera? ¿dónde hago las disminuciones de la segunda fila 4 veces?. Gracias de antemano, saludos.

DROPS Design 13.04.2016 kl. 09:14:

Hola Cova, las dism se trabajan en el centro del delantero a cada lado del escote y disminuyendo 1 pt cada 2ª fila un total de 4 vcs

Cova 11.04.2016 - 11:56:

Vuelvo a atascarme. Ya he completado el RAGLAN pero no entiendo cómo seguir con las instrucciones de ESCOTE. Tengo 48 puntos en la aguja circular. ¿Dejo 6 en espera de los 48? ¿o de 24 si cuento separar escote y espalda? en fin, gracias de nuevo por vuestra ayuda...Saludos

DROPS Design 13.04.2016 kl. 09:12:

Hola Cova, de la parte delantera pasamos los 6 pts centrales a un gancho aux. A partir de aquí trabajamos de ida y vta y NO en redondo. Continuamos con las dism del raglán y al mismo tiempo disminuímos a cada lado del escote según el patrón. Ten en cuenta que ya tenemos separados con MP las diferentes partes: delantero, espalda...

Cova 03.04.2016 - 12:37:

Muchas gracias por la respuesta, creo que ya lo entiendo. Es mi primer jersey con raglan!

Cova 01.04.2016 - 12:03:

Buenos días. He acabado de tejer el cuerpo en aguja circular, también he tejido las mangas por separado en circular. No se bien cómo unir las mangas al cuerpo y continuar con el raglan. El video de la union que hay en el patrón no usa una pieza de cuerpo y espalda cerrada en circular como yo he hecho. Gracias!!!!

DROPS Design 02.04.2016 kl. 17:14:

Hola Cova. Antes de unir todas las partes en ag circular tienes que cerrar los pts para la sisa tanto en el cuerpo como en las mangas (ver el patrón). Después trabajamos el delantero hasta donde se ha cerrado para la sisa, continuamos trabajando los pts de una manga con la misma ag circular que el delantero, después seguimos con los pts de la espalda y al final trabajamos los pts de la otra manga. De este modo tenemos todos los pts de la prenda en una ag circular. Ahora continuamos la labor según el patrón

DROPS Design 25.11.2010 - 13:29:

Med raglan er det veldig viktig at strikkfasheten innholdes. Har du riktig strikkfashet?

Maria 22.11.2010 - 14:32:

Kan det passe at ærme skal være så smal?

Drops Design 31.08.2007 - 13:33:

En raglanfelling strikkes ved at bolen og ermene settes sammen på samme rundp der ermhullet begynner. Videre strikkes det rundt og det felles m på hver side av alle overgangene mellom ermer og bol - dvs 8 fellinger pr omg. Dette vil stå nøye forklart på oppskrifter med raglanfelling - da er det bare å følge oppskriften!

Kathrine 30.08.2007 - 20:42:

Hvordan strikker en raglan felling?

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