Olive wood No. 511
OrderClicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
Evening Star Cardigan / DROPS 254-24
Change language:
English (UK/cm)#eveningstarcardigan
DROPS design: Pattern u-978
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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Olive wood No. 511
OrderClicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
= off white | |
= dark grey blue/navy blue |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Evening Star Cardigan |
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Knitted jacket in DROPS Karisma or DROPS Daisy. Piece is knitted top down with Nordic pattern and double neck edge. Size: S - XXXL
DROPS 254-24 |
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---------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN: ---------------------------------------------------------- GARTER STITCH (when working back and forth): Knit on all rows, i.e. knit from right side and knit from wrong side. 1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows. PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 to A.6. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side. Work pattern in stocking stitch. INCREASE TIP: Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, on next row/round work yarn over knit/purl yarn over twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. DECREASE TIP: Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is in the middle of these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased). KNITTING TIP: To avoid the knitting tension to tighten when working pattern, it is important not to tighten the strands on back side of piece. Use a larger needle size when working pattern try needed. When there are large gaps in the pattern, twine the yarn on the back of piece. BUTTONHOLES: Decrease for 6-6-6-7-7-7 button holes on right front band. 1 buttonhole = work 2 stitches together, and make 1 yarn over – NOTE: Decrease for buttonholes will look better by purling 2 together in a section with 2 purl stitches (seen from right side). On next row knit yarn over to make holes. Place top buttonhole in the transition between neck edge and front piece, bottom buttonhole approx. in the transition between body and rib. Place the remaining 4-4-4-5-5-5 buttonholes evenly approx. 8-8½-9-7½-7½-8 cm apart. ---------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ---------------------------------------------------------- JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: In this pattern needles of different length have been used, begin with fitting length for number of stitches and switch as needed. Work piece back and forth on needle. Work front pieces and back piece separately. Work top down, down to armholes, slip parts together and work back and forth from mid front. Pick up stitches for sleeves around the armholes. Then work sleeves downwards in the round on needle. Pick up stitches around the neck and work a neck edge, then pick up stitches along front piece and work bands. BACK PIECE: RIGHT SHOULDER: Work back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 38-42-46-46-54-62 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm with DROPS Karisma in colour dark grey blue or DROPS Daisy in colour navy blue. Purl 1 row from wrong side, then work 4 rows pattern as shown in A.1 with 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH in each side - read explanation above. Put piece aside, and work the left shoulder. LEFT SHOULDER: Cast on 38-42-46-46-54-62 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm with DROPS Karisma in colour dark grey blue or DROPS Daisy in colour navy blue. Purl 1 row from wrong side, then work 4 rows pattern as shown in A.1, with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. On next row slip shoulders together for back piece as explained below. Work next row as follows from right side: Work 5th row in A.1 over stitches from left shoulder, cast on 39-39-39-47-47-47 new stitches on row with colour off white/off white, work 5th row in A.1 over stitches on right shoulder = 115-123-131-139-155-171 stitches. Read KNITTING TIP! Work 1 edge stitch, A.1 until 2 stitches remain, work first stitch in A.1 (so that pattern begins and ends the same), 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When A.1 has been worked, continue as follows: 1 edge stitch, see start arrow in A.2 for your size and work A.2 until 1 stitch remains, work 1 edge stitch. Pattern will not fit one whole repetition in the sides but there is one whole repetition of A.2 in the middle of row. When piece measures 20-21-22-23-24-25 cm from cast-on edge, insert 1 marker in each side of piece. Note which row in pattern this is. Continue A.2 and cast off at the beginning of every row in each side: 2 stitches 1 time, and 1 stitch 3 times = 105-113-121-129-145-161 stitches. Finish with 1 row from wrong side, cut the yarn and put piece aside, and work front pieces as explained below. RIGHT FRONT PIECE: Cast on 38-42-46-46-54-62 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm with DROPS Karisma in colour dark grey blue or DROPS Daisy in colour navy blue. Purl 1 row from wrong side, then work as follows from right side: 1 edge stitch, A.1 over the next 32-40-40-40-48-56 stitches, work the first 4 stitches in A.1 1-0-1-1-1-1 time, finish with 1 edge stitch. On 13th-13th-15th-15th-17th-17th row in diagram begin increase for neck, cast on new stitches at the end of every row from right side as follows: 1 stitch 1 time, 2 stitches 2 times and 3 stitches 1 time = 46-50-54-54-62-70 stitches, work the increased stitches in the pattern. At the end of next row from right side cast on 13-13-13-17-17-17 new stitches = 59-63-67-71-79-87 stitches. Continue with A.1 with 1 edge stitch in each side. Make sure that the pattern fits the established pattern, the pattern will not fit one whole repetition towards mid front, but will fit towards the side. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue as follows: 1 edge stitch, work the last 9-13-17-21-5-13 stitches in A.3 - see start arrow for your size - work A.3 over the next 48-48-48-48-72-72 stitches, finish with 1 edge stitch. When piece measures 20-21-22-23-24-25 cm, insert 1 marker at the end of row from right side, make sure that this is the same row as on back piece. Continue A.3 and cast off at the beginning of every row from right side as follows: 2 stitches 1 time, and 1 stitch 3 times = 54-58-62-66-74-82 stitches. Finish with a row from wrong side. Fasten off. LEFT FRONT PIECE: Cast on 38-42-46-46-54-62 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm with DROPS Karisma in colour dark grey blue or DROPS Daisy in colour navy blue. Purl 1 row from wrong side, then work as follows from right side: 1 edge stitch, work the last 4 stitches in A.4 1-0-1-1-1-1 time in total, work A.4 over the next 32-40-40-40-48-56 stitches and finish with 1 edge stitch. On 14th-14th-16th-16th-18th-18th row in diagram begin increase for neck, cast on new stitches at the end of every row from wrong side as follows: 1 stitch 1 time, 2 stitches 2 times and 3 stitches 1 time = 46-50-54-54-62-70 stitches, work the increased stitches in the pattern. At the end of next row from wrong side cast on 13-13-13-17-17-17 new stitches = 59-63-67-71-79-87 stitches. Continue with A.4 with 1 edge stitch in each side. Make sure that the pattern fits the established pattern, the pattern will not fit one whole repetition towards mid front, but will fit towards the side. When A.4 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue as follows: 1 edge stitch, A.5 over the next 48-48-48-48-72-72 stitches, work the first 9-13-17-21-5-13 stitches in A.5 and finish with 1 edge stitch. When piece measures 20-21-22-23-24-25 cm, insert 1 marker at the end of row from right side, make sure that this is the same row as on back piece. Continue A.5 and cast off at the beginning of every row from wrong side as follows: 2 stitches 1 time, and 1 stitch 3 times = 54-58-62-66-74-82 stitches. Finish with a row from wrong side, do not cut the yarn, now work the parts together. BODY: On next row from right side work the parts together: Work as follows: Work over the 54-58-62-66-74-82 stitches from left front piece (continue A.5 as before as far as the pattern), work the next 105-113-121-129-145-161 stitches from back piece (continue pattern as shown in A.2, make sure that the pattern fits the established pattern), work over the 54-58-62-66-74-82 stitches from right front piece (continue A.5 the same way as before). There are now 213-229-245-261-293-325 stitches on needle. Continue back and forth with pattern and 1 edge stitch in each side as before until A.2, A.3 and A.5 have been worked. NOTE! The pattern will not fit in each side but work pattern as far as possible out towards each side, make sure that there is at least 1 stitch with colour dark grey blue/navy blue in each side when working dots. When the pattern is done, repeat the last 8 rows in pattern (marked with X). Work as before until piece measures 25-26-27-27-28-29 cm from where the parts were put together, finish with a few rows without dots. Now finish the piece with colour dark grey blue/navy blue. On next row from right side begin rib while AT THE SAME TIME increasing 39-43-47-47-59-63 stitches evenly on needle = 252-272-292-308-352-388 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm and work 1 edge stitch, work rib (= knit 2/purl 2 - remember increase) until 3 stitches remain, knit 2 and 1 edge stitch. Cast off when rib measures 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm. Jacket measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm. ASSEMBLY: Sew the shoulder seams. SLEEVES: Work sleeves in the round from armhole and downwards on circular needle size 4 mm. Pick up from right side 84-88-92-96-100-106 stitches along armhole – use colour dark grey blue/navy blue, begin at the marker at the bottom of armhole and pick up stitches until marker in the other side. Stitches cast off in each side are sewn together when finish. Insert 1 marker thread at beginning of row. Insert in addition 1 marker in one of the 2 middle stitches on round (= mid on top of sleeve). Marker thread mid under sleeve is used when decreasing under sleeve and marker mid on top of sleeve should be used to count where to begin pattern under sleeve. Work 1 round in stocking stitch with colour dark grey blue/navy blue. Then work pattern, i.e. work A.6 around the sleeve - stitch with arrow in A.6 should fit stitch with marker mid on top of sleeve - count out towards marker thread where pattern should begin mid under sleeve (the pattern will not fit mid under sleeve). When sleeve measures 3 cm from marker on the shoulder, decrease mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP and decrease as follows: Decrease 2 stitches every 3-2½-2½-2-2-1½ cm 13-14-14-15-16-18 times in total = 58-60-64-66-68-70 stitches. When A.6 has been worked one time vertically, repeat the last 8 rounds (marked with x in diagram) Work until sleeve measures 42-41-41-39-36-33 cm from marker, finish with a few rows without dots. Now finish the piece with colour dark grey blue/navy blue. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm and work rib (= knit 2/purl 2) while AT THE SAME TIME increasing 10-12-12-10-12-14 stitches evenly on 1st round = 68-72-76-76-80-84 stitches. When rib measures 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm cast off. DOUBLE NECK EDGE: Use circular needle size 3 mm and colour dark grey blue/navy blue. Begin from right side mid front and pick up approx. 120 to 136 stitches around the neck, number of stitches must be divisible by 4. Work first row as follows from wrong side: 1 edge stitch, work rib (= purl 2, knit 2) until 3 stitches remain, purl 2 and 1 edge stitch. Continue rib back and forth like this for 9 cm. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and cast off. RIGHT BAND: Use circular needle size 3 mm and colour dark grey blue/navy blue. Begin at the bottom along opening on jacket and pick up approx. 120 to 140 stitches inside 1 edge stitch until 5 cm remain at the top on neck edge (the last 5 cm are folded in later) - number of stitches must be divisible by 4. Work rib back and forth as follows (first row is from wrong side): Work 1 edge stitch, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until 3 stitches remain, purl 2 and 1 edge stitch. Continue rib until band measures 1½ cm. Now decrease for 6-6-6-7-7-7 BUTTONHOLES evenly – read explanation above. Cast off when band measures 3 cm. LEFT BAND: Use circular needle size 3 mm and colour dark grey blue/navy blue. Begin at the top along opening on jacket, 4 cm down from cast-on edge on neck edge (the top 5 cm of neck edge are folded in later) and pick up approx. 120 to 140 stitches inside 1 edge stitch down to the end of body - number of stitches must be divisible 4. Work the same way as right band but do not decrease for buttonholes ASSEMBLY: Sew the buttons on to the left band. Fold the rib down on inside of garment. Fasten rib to get a double neck edge. To avoid a tight neck edge that sticks out it is important to keep the seam elastic. Sew opening towards mid front together on bands with neat little stitches. Sew the opening under each sleeve. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find 35 tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. Have you finished this pattern? |
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Comments / Questions (4)
Suzanne wrote:
Heirloom quality cardigan that would require about a year for me to complete. My granddaughters love this pattern.
12.08.2024 - 00:01Celina wrote:
Cold cardi
10.08.2024 - 22:03Barisca wrote:
Cosy cardigan
10.08.2024 - 09:20Veela wrote:
Vuoret / Mountains
08.08.2024 - 13:41