DROPS Fabel uni colour 75% Wool, 25% Polyamide |
2.30 £ /50g |
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DROPS Fabel 75% Wool, 25% Polyamide |
2.40 £ /50g |
Order | |
DROPS Fabel long print 75% Wool, 25% Polyamide |
2.60 £ /50g |
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Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 75% Mohair, 25% Silk |
4.60 £ /25g |
Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
Round (moonbeam) No. 614
OrderClicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
Lost in Mist Cardigan / DROPS 252-37
Change language:
English (UK/cm)#lostinmistcardigan
DROPS Design: Pattern fa-555
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Fabel uni colour 75% Wool, 25% Polyamide 2.30 £ /50g Order |
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DROPS Fabel print 75% Wool, 25% Polyamide 2.40 £ /50g Order |
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DROPS Fabel long print 75% Wool, 25% Polyamide 2.60 £ /50g Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 75% Mohair, 25% Silk 4.60 £ /25g Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
Round (moonbeam) No. 614
OrderClicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Wendy wrote:
Please explain how the bands are sewn together and then to the neckline. I don’t understand how each band is 16cms, then how can that fit the back neck which is only 44 sts wide ?
05.12.2024 - 13:48DROPS Design answered:
Dear Wendy, here is a video on how to assemble the neck bands: https://www.garnstudio.com/video.php?id=1800&lang=en. Happy knitting!
08.12.2024 - 12:49Marieka wrote:
Welches Garn könnte ich mit Fabel kombinieren, wenn ich keine langfaserige Wolle wie silk nehmen möchte? Also lieber glattes Garn. Was könnte man mit Fabel kombinieren für dieses Modell?
02.10.2024 - 21:55DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Marieka, benutzen Sie den Garnumrechner um alle Alternative zu Kid-Silk (1 Faden = Garngruppe A oder 2 Fäden = 1 Faden Garngruppe C) sowie die passende neue Garnmenge zu finden. Gerne kann Ihnen auch Ihr DROPS Händler die besten passenden Garne/Farben (auch per Telefon oder per E-Mail) empfehlen. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!
03.10.2024 - 09:43Tine wrote:
Mangler selve opskriften ikke? :)
06.09.2024 - 12:03DROPS Design answered:
Hej Tine, så er opskriften lagt ud - tak for info :)
06.09.2024 - 12:20B Boop wrote:
Best friend
11.08.2024 - 15:52
Lost in Mist Cardigan |
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Knitted jacket in 1 strand DROPS Fabel and 2 strands DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down with raglan, V-neck and bands. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS 252-37 |
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------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN: ------------------------------------------------------- GARTER STITCH: Knit on all rows, i.e. knit from right side and knit from wrong side. 1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows. RAGLAN: All increases are worked from the right side! Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, which is worked as follows on the next row: BEFORE MARKER-THREAD: Purl through the back loop to avoid a hole. Then work the new stitch in stocking stitch. AFTER MARKER-THREAD: Slip the yarn over off the left needle and replace it twisted (insert the left needle through the back when replacing it). Purl the front loop to avoid a hole. Then work the new stitch in stocking stitch. V-NECK: All increases are worked from the right side! Increase 1 stitch inside 1 knitted stitch + 6 band-stitches as follows: LEFT FRONT PIECE: Work the band as before, knit 1, make 1 yarn over. On the next row (= wrong side) work the yarn over as follows: Purl through the back loop to avoid a hole. Then work the new stitch in stocking stitch. RIGHT FRONT PIECE: Work until there are 7 stitches left on the row, make 1 yarn over, knit 1 and work the band as before. On the next row (= wrong side) work the yarn over as follows: Slip the yarn over off the left needle and replace it twisted (insert the left needle through the back when replacing it). Purl the front loop to avoid a hole. Then work the new stitch in stocking stitch. BUTTONHOLES: Work the buttonholes on the right front band from the right side, when there are 6 stitches left on the row. ROW 1 (right side): Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together, knit 2, slip 1 purl-wise with strand in front, knit 1. ROW 2 (wrong side): Work the band as before, knit the yarn over to leave a hole. The first buttonhole is worked 1 cm after the final increase for the V-neck. Then work the other 3 buttonholes with 8-8½-8½-8-8-8 cm between each one. The bottom buttonhole is worked in the transition between the stocking stitch and rib. DECREASE TIP: Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker-thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker-thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (2 stitches decreased). ------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ------------------------------------------------------- JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE. The pattern uses both long and short needles; start with the length which fits the number of stitches and change when necessary. The bands are worked first, then stitches are cast on between them for the yoke. The yoke is worked back and forth with circular needle, from mid front and top down. When the yoke is finished, it is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth, while the sleeves wait. The sleeves are worked in the round, top down. The bands are sewn together at the back of the neck, then sewn to the neckline. If there is a «0» in your chosen size, skip the information and go straight to the next instruction. RIGHT BAND: Cast on 6 stitches with double pointed needles size 6 mm, 1 strand colour silver fox DROPS Fabel, 1 strand colour off white DROPS Kid-Silk and 1 strand colour marzipan DROPS Kid-Silk (= 3 strands). RIGHT SIDE: Work 1 GARTER STITCH – read description above, knit 3, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with strand in front, knit 1. WRONG SIDE: Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with strand in front, knit 1, purl 3, work 1 garter stitch. Repeat these 2 rows back and forth for 15-15-16-17-18-18 cm, with the last row from the wrong side. Cut the strand. LEFT BAND: Cast on 6 stitches with double pointed needles size 6 mm, 1 strand colour silver fox DROPS Fabel, 1 strand colour off white DROPS Kid-Silk and 1 strand colour marzipan DROPS Kid-Silk (= 3 strands). RIGHT SIDE: Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with strand in front, knit 1, knit 3, work 1 garter stitch. WRONG SIDE: Work 1 garter stitch, purl 3, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with strand in front, knit 1. Repeat these 2 rows back and forth for 15-15-16-17-18-18 cm, with the last row from the wrong side. Do not cut the strand. Work the yoke as follows: YOKE: Cast on stitches for the yoke as follows: Use circular needle size 6 mm, work the left band as before from the right side, cast on 44-44-46-48-50-52 stitches, work the right band as before from the right side = 56-56-58-60-62-64 stitches. Insert 4 marker-threads as follows without working the stitches and inserting the threads between 2 stitches (called raglan-stitches). Count 8 stitches (= front piece), Insert 1 marker-thread before the next stitch, count 10 stitches (= sleeve), Insert 1 marker-thread before the next stitch, count 20-20-22-24-26-28 stitches (= back piece), Insert 1 marker-thread before the next stitch, count 10 stitches (= sleeve), Insert 1 marker-thread before the next stitch, there are 8 stitches left on the row (= front piece). Insert 1 marker in the middle of the cast-on stitches (= mid-back), the piece is measured from here. Work stocking stitch with the bands as before on each side. AT THE SAME TIME, increase for both raglan and V-neck as follows. Remember to maintain the knitting tension. RAGLAN: Increase for RAGLAN– read description above, on each side of the 2 raglan-stitches by each marker-thread (= 8 increased stitches). Increase for raglan every 2nd row a total of 18-20-21-22-23-25 times = 144-160-168-176-184-200 increased stitches. V-NECK: Increase for V-NECK– read description above, every 4th row (i.e., every 2nd row from the right side) 8-8-9-10-11-12 times on each side = 16-16-18-20-22-24 increased stitches. When the increases for the V-neck are finished, remember to work the first BUTTONHOLE – read description above. When all the increases for both raglan and V-neck are finished, there are 216-232-244-256-268-288 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch and bands as before but without further increases until the yoke measures 22-24-25-26-28-30 cm from the marker mid-back. Now divide for the body and sleeves. DIVIDE FOR BODY AND SLEEVES: Work the next row as follows: 36-39-41-43-46-49 stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 42-44-46-48-48-52 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 10-10-12-14-16-18 stitches (in side mid-under sleeve), work 60-66-70-74-80-86 stitches (= back piece), place the next 42-44-46-48-48-52 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 10-10-12-14-16-18 stitches (in side mid-under sleeve), work the last 36-39-41-43-46-49 stitches as before (= front piece). The body and sleeves are finished separately. BODY: = 152-164-176-188-204-220 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch and the bands as before until the piece measures 44-46-48-50-52-54 cm from the marker mid-back. On the next row from the right side, begin the rib. AT THE SAME TIME increase 21-21-21-25-29-29 stitches evenly on the first row (do not increase across the bands) as follows = 173-185-197-213-233-249 stitches: Change to circular needle size 5 mm, work the band as before, work rib (knit 1, purl 1 – remember to increase) until there are 7 stitches left, knit 1 and work the band as before. When the rib measures 6 cm, cast off a little loosely. The jacket measures approx. 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm from the marker mid-back and 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from top of shoulder. SLEEVES: Place the 42-44-46-48-48-52 sleeve-stitches from the thread on one side of the piece on circular needle size 6 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 10-10-12-14-16-18 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 52-54-58-62-64-70 stitches. Insert a marker-thread in the middle of the 10-10-12-14-16-18 stitches under the sleeve. Start at the marker-thread and work stocking stitch in the round. When the sleeve measures 2 cm, decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 5-4½-4-3½-3-2½ cm a total of 8-8-9-10-11-13 times = 36-38-40-42-42-44 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 39-38-37-36-34-33 cm from the division. Change to double pointed needles size 5 mm. Work rib (knit 1, purl 1), AT THE SAME TIME increase 6 stitches evenly on the first round = 42-44-46-48-48-50 stitches. When the rib measures 6 cm, cast off a little loosely. The sleeve measures approx. 45-44-43-42-40-39 cm. ASSEMBLY: Sew the buttons onto the left band. Sew the bands together mid-back of neck, then sew them to the neckline. |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find 31 tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. Have you finished this pattern? |
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