DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 34.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Christmas Calendar

Winter Confetti

Knitted jumper in DROPS Fabel and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down with raglan and double neck. Sizes S - XXXL.

Highlight Size:
DROPS 255-33

#winterconfettisweater

DROPS Design: Pattern fa-551
Yarn group A + A or C
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

YARN:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-300-300-350-350-400 g colour 924, confetti cake
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
125-150-150-175-175-200 g colour 01, off white

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need 80 cm circular needle in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
18 stitches in width and 24 rows in height, with stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality on needle size 4.5 mm = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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You might also like...

DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 34.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RAGLAN:
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, which is worked as follows on the next round:
BEFORE RAGLAN-STITCH:
Slip the yarn over off the left needle and replace it twisted (insert the left needle through the back when replacing it). Knit the front loop (the stitch twists to the right) to avoid a hole.
AFTER RAGLAN-STITCH:
Knit through the back loop (the stitch twists to the left) to avoid a hole.

DECREASE TIP (for mid-under sleeves):
Start 3 stitches before the marker-thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (2 stitches decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The pattern uses both long and short needles; start with the length which fits the number of stitches and change when necessary.
The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, top down and from the right back shoulder. When the yoke is finished, it is divided for the body and sleeves and the body continued in the round, while the sleeves wait. The sleeves are worked top down, in the round.
The neck is folded double and fastened to the inside and sewn down.

DOUBLE NECK:
Cast on 100-104-108-112-116-120 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm, 1 strand DROPS Fabel and 1 strand DROPS Kid-Silk. Change to circular needle size 3 mm (casting on with a larger needle size makes the cast-on edge elastic). Work rib in the round (knit 2, purl 2) for 13 cm. The neck is later folded double, leaving a neck-height of approx. 6 cm.
The beginning of the round is on the right back shoulder. Insert 1 marker after the first 37-38-39-40-41-42 stitches (approx. mid-front); the piece is now measured from here.

YOKE:
Continue with circular needle size 4.5 mm. Insert 4 markers, without working the stitches and inserting the markers into stitches (raglan-stitches) which are continued in stocking stitch.
Insert marker 1 in the first stitch, count 22 stitches (= sleeve),
Insert marker 2 in the next stitch, count 26-28-30-32-34-36 stitches (= front piece),
Insert marker 3 in the next stitch, count 22 stitches (= sleeve),
Insert marker 4 in the next stitch, there are 26-28-30-32-34-36 stitches left (= back piece).

Work stocking stitch in the round and increase for RAGLAN – read description above, as follows:
ROUND 1: Make 1 yarn over before and after each raglan-stitch (= 8 increased stitches).
ROUND 2: Work stocking stitch over all stitches (remember to twist the yarn overs as explained under RAGLAN).
Work rounds 1 and 2 a total of 1-1-3-6-5-1 times (= 2-2-6-12-10-2 rounds worked) = 108-112-132-160-156-128 stitches. Remember to maintain the knitting tension.

Continue with stocking stitch, now increasing as follows:
ROUND 1: Make 1 yarn over before and after each raglan-stitch (= 8 increased stitches).
ROUND 2: Work stocking stitch over all stitches.
ROUND 3: Make 1 yarn over after raglan-stitch-2, 1 yarn over before raglan-stitch-3, 1 yarn over after raglan-stitch-4 and 1 yarn over before raglan-stitch-1 (= 4 increased stitches which are only on the front and back pieces, not on the sleeves).
ROUND 4: Work stocking stitch over all stitches.
Work rounds 1 to 4 a total of 14-15-15-15-17-20 times (56-60-60-60-68-80 rounds worked = you increase a total of 14-15-15-15-17-20 times on sleeves and 28-30-30-30-34-40 times on front and back pieces) = 276-292-312-340-360-368 stitches.

All the increases for raglan are finished, with a total of 29-31-33-36-39-41 times on the front and back pieces and 15-16-18-21-22-21 times on the sleeves. Continue with stocking stitch, but without further increases, until the yoke measures 24-26-28-30-33-34 cm from the marker mid-front. Now divide for the body and sleeves.

DIVIDE FOR BODY AND SLEEVES:
Work the next round as follows: Knit the first stitch, place the next 52-54-58-64-66-64 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-12-14-18 stitches (= in side mid-under sleeve), knit 86-92-98-106-114-120 (= front piece), place the next 52-54-58-64-66-64 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-12-14-18 stitches (= in side mid-under sleeve), knit the last 85-91-97-105-113-119 stitches (= back piece). The body and sleeves are finished separately, beginning the new round in the side under the sleeve.

BODY:
= 188-200-216-236-256-276 stitches.
Continue with stocking stitch in the round until the piece measures 45-47-49-51-53-55 cm from the marker mid-front.
Change to circular needle size 3 mm. Work rib (knit 2, purl 2), AT THE SAME TIME increase 20-24-24-24-28-32 stitches evenly on the first round = 208-224-240-260-284-308 stitches.
When the rib measures 5 cm, cast off.
The jumper measures approx. 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm from the marker mid-front and 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm from top of shoulder.

SLEEVES:
Place the 52-54-58-64-66-64 sleeve-stitches from the thread on one side of the piece on circular needle size 4.5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-12-14-18 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 60-62-68-76-80-82 stitches. Insert a marker-thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-12-14-18 stitches under the sleeve.
Start at the marker-thread and work stocking stitch in the round.
When the sleeve measures 3 cm, decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 6-6-4-3-2-2 cm a total of 5-5-7-10-11-11 times = 50-52-54-56-58-60 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 36-35-33-32-29-29 cm from the division. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm. Work rib (knit 2, purl 2), AT THE SAME TIME increase 6-8-6-8-6-8 stitches evenly on the first round = 56-60-60-64-64-68 stitches. When the rib measures 5 cm, cast off. The sleeve measures approx. 41-41-38-37-34-34 cm.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the neck double to the inside and sew down. To avoid the neck being tight and rolling outwards, it is important that the seam is elastic.

Diagram

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!
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Comments / Questions (13)

country flag Helen Gardiner wrote:

Hi. There doesn't appear to be instructions for short rows at the back of the neck ....is this correct?

11.11.2024 - 16:14

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Gardiner, you are right, for this jumper, the neck will be as deep on front piece as on back piece. Happy knitting!

12.11.2024 - 08:51

country flag Nelleke wrote:

Ah bedankt voor het voorrekenen! ik zie nu dat er verschil is tussen de looplengte op de pagina van kid-silk (210 m) en op het garenoverzicht (...yarn-groups ..., daar staat 420 m) hartelijke groeten, N.

10.11.2024 - 16:09

country flag Nelleke wrote:

Hallo, ik probeer om te rekenen van fabel+kid-silk naar nepal of alaska (A+A > C), maar hoe kan het dat je van fabel 1230 meter nodig hebt en van kid-silk 2520? wat moet ik nu aanhouden voor nepal of alaska? dank jullie wel voor het antwoord. Nelleke

10.11.2024 - 12:04

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Nelleke,

Om de hoeveelheid garen te berekenen kijk je naar de totale looplengte van een van beide garens. Van beide heb je 6 bollen nodig. De totale looplengte van Kid-Silk is dus 1260 en die van Fabel 1230. Nepal heeft een looplengte van 75 m. Dus heb je (1230 gedeeld door 75) 16,4 bollen nodig.

10.11.2024 - 13:12

country flag Anja Hoff Petersen wrote:

Hvad er årsagen til, at man ved overgangen fra halskant til bærestykke skal forskyde startpunktet til et nyt sted? Hvorfor kan man ikke blot fortsætte med den oprindelige omgangsstart som målepunkt i resten af arbejdet?

05.11.2024 - 22:05

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anja, er starten ikke hele tiden fra højre skulder bagpå? Mærket sætter du kun så du kan måle arbejdet :)

07.11.2024 - 08:38

country flag Marie-France wrote:

Bonjour, je pense qu’il y a une erreur pour l’empiècement des tailles S et M concernant le nombre de tours : 14 x 4 tours = 56 tours et non pas 52 et 15 x 4 tours = 60 tours et non pas 56 comme indiqué sur vos explications. MERCI POUR TOUT CE QUE VOUS FAITES !

25.09.2024 - 21:56

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marie-France et merci, la correction a aussi été faite. Bonne continuation!

07.10.2024 - 10:58

country flag Penelope wrote:

Hej, jag har en fråga gällande rörelsevidden på plagget. Vilken bystvidd motsvarar de olika storlekarna? Tack på förhand!

14.09.2024 - 20:38

country flag Sylvie Amphoux wrote:

Qu'il est beau !!!!!!

05.09.2024 - 19:24

country flag Julie wrote:

Hi, . Love your patterns, but should there be a measurement diagram for this pattern? Thanks

01.09.2024 - 06:21

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Julie, thank you. Measurement chart has now been added, Happy knitting!

02.09.2024 - 08:35

country flag Helena wrote:

Goedendag, Ik mis de afmetingen per maat van deze trui.

31.08.2024 - 14:35

country flag Nathalie wrote:

Hallo, ich kann nirgends die Maßskizze sehen. Wo erkenne ich, welche Größe ich stricken kann? Ein paar Maße wären nicht schlecht, wenigstens vom fertigen Brustumfang. LG

30.08.2024 - 20:34

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Nathalie, danke für den Hinweis, Maßskizze kommt so schnell wie möglich. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

02.09.2024 - 07:49