DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.60 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.40$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS AW2425

Beach Glass Top

Crocheted top in DROPS Paris. Piece is crocheted from bottom up with stripes and vents in the sides. Size XS – XXL.

Highlight Size:
DROPS 240-9
DROPS design: Pattern w-889
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZE:
XS - S - M - L - XL – XXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 78-90-96-102-112-124 cm = 30¾"-35½"-37¾"-40"-44"-48¾"
Full length: 49-51-53-55-57-59 cm = 19¼"-20"-21"-21⅝"-22½"-23¼"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

YARN:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
200-200-250-250-300-300 g color 17, off white
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 30, jeans blue
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 66, plum
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 68, almond
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 70, cherry blossom
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 71, tangerine

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5 MM = US H/8.

CROCHET GAUGE:
14 double crochets in width and 8.5 rows vertically = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".
NOTE! Remember that hook size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to larger hook. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to smaller hook.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.60 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.40$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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CHAIN STITCHES:
If you work at the end of crochet hook the chain stitch will often be too tight.
1 chain stitch should be just as long as 1 single crochet/double crochet is wide.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.
A.1 shows pattern with double crochet groups.
A.2 shows decreases for armhole. Choose diagram for your size.

STRIPES:
See diagram A.3.
1 row in A.3 = 1 row in A.1/A.2.
Work A.3 until piece measures approx. 37-39-41-41-43-45 cm = 14½"-15¼"-16⅛"-16⅛"-17"-17¾", then continue with color off white until finished measurements.
Cut the yarn at the end of row when needed to work alternately 1 row from right side and 1 row from wrong side

CROCHET INFORMATION:
Begin every row with double crochets with 3 chain stitches. Finish row with 1 double crochet in 3rd chain stitch from beginning of previous row – NB: make sure that the yarn ends are long enough at every color change so that yarn ends can be used to sew with when the garment is assembled.
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START THE PIECE HERE:

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TOP - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work front piece and back piece back and forth, bottom up.
Sew piece together in the sides and on shoulders.

BACK PIECE:
Work 56-64-68-72-80-88 CHAIN STITCHES - read explanation above, on hook size 5 MM = US H/8 with color off white in DROPS Paris.
Turn piece, work 1 single crochet in 2nd chain stitch from hook, then work 1 single crochet in every chain stitch = 55-63-67-71-79-87 single crochets (this row is from wrong side).
Work next row as follows from right side: Work A.1a in first single crochet, work A.1b 13-15-16-17-19-21 times in total, work A.1c in the last 2 single crochets. Continue pattern back and forth like this. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
When 4-4-4-5-6-6 rows with double crochet groups in color off white have been worked, work STRIPES - read explanation above (continue double crochet groups as before).

When piece measures approx. 33-34-35-36-37-38 cm = 13"-13⅜"-13¾"-14¼"-14½"-15" and next row is worked from wrong side, bind off for armholes as follows: NB: Start with 2 nd row in the diagrams: Work A.2c, continue A.1b until 2-3-3-3-4-4 double crochet groups remain on row, work A.2a over the last stitches. Then work as explained below.

SIZE XS:
Continue decrease back and forth like this until the last 2 rows in A.2 remain. Switch to color off white and work the last 2 rows in A.2, piece measures approx. 39 cm = 15¼" and 2 double crochet groups have been decreased in each side for armhole. Fasten off.

SIZE S - M - L - XL - XXL:
Continue decrease back and forth like this. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 39-41-41-43-45 cm = 15¼"-16⅛"-16⅛"-17"-17¾", finish stripes and continue to work with color off white until finished measurements.
When A.2 has been worked vertically, piece measures approx. 40-41-42-45-46 cm = 15¾"-16⅛"-16½"-17¾"-18" and 3-3-3-4-4 double crochet groups have been decreased in each side for armholes. Continue back and forth with double crochet groups as before, i.e. work next row as follows from right side: Work A.1a in first stitch, work A.1b 9-10-11-11-13 times in total, work A.1c over the last stitches.
Work until piece measures 41-43-43-45-49 cm = 16⅛"-17"-17"-17¾"-19¼". Fasten off.

FRONT PIECE:
Work the same way as on back. When front piece has been worked the same way as back piece, piece measures approx. 39-41-43-45-47-49 cm = 15¼"-16⅛"-17"-17¾"-18½"-19¼". Do not fasten the yarns. Now work STRAP in each side as explained below:

STRAP:
Begin from the side and work as follows:
IF THE ROW BEGINS FROM RIGHT SIDE: Work A.1a, work A.1b 2-2-2-2-2-3 times in total, work A.1c.
IF THE ROW BEGINS FROM WRONG SIDE: Work A.1c, work A.1b 2-2-2-2-2-3 times in total, work A.1a.
Continue pattern back and forth like this until strap measures approx. 20 cm = 8" in all sizes (strap should be placed over the shoulder and sewn to back piece - try the top on and adjust the length of strap). Fasten off.
Work a similar strap in the other side.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew straps to back piece at the edge in each side.
Sew side seams - sew top down edge to edge, and sew with the color of every stripe. Finish the seam when approx. 14 cm = 5½" remain at the bottom in each side (vents).

EDGE AROUND NECK:
Begin mid on top of one shoulder, and work on hook size 5 MM = US H/8 with color off white as follows: 1 single crochet around first double crochet, * 4 chain stitches, skip 1 double crochet/double crochet group (approx. 2 cm = ¾"), 1 single crochet around next double crochet/chain stitch *, work from *-* along the straps and around the neck, and finish round with 4 chain stitches and 1 slip stitch in first single crochet. Cut and fasten the yarn.

EDGE AROUND ARMHOLES:
Begin the side under sleeve, and work on hook size 5 MM = US H/8 with color off white as follows: 1 single crochet in side seam, * 4 chain stitches, skip approx. 2 cm = ¾"), 1 single crochet around next double crochet/chain stitch *, work from *-* around the entire armhole, and finish round with 4 chain stitches and 1 slip stitch in first single crochet. Cut and fasten the yarn.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 05.04.2024
The pattern has been reviewed and updated, diagrams are updated. A.2.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = 1 chain stitch
symbols = 1 single crochet
symbols = 1 slip stitch around chain stitch / 1 slip stitch in stitch below
symbols = this row has already been worked and only shows how stitches are worked - begin on next row in diagram
symbols = 1 double crochet around chain stitch below
symbols = 3 chain stitches (= 1 double crochet)
symbols = color off white
symbols = color plum
symbols = color jeans blue
symbols = color tangerine
symbols = color almond
symbols = color cherry blossom
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.  

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (14)

country flag Cori wrote:

Avete scritto che è stato aggiornato lo schema A2, però non c'è scritto cosa è stato corretto mi aiutate a capire perché le diminuzione per il giro manica vengono troppo diversi grazie

24.05.2024 - 00:40

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Cori, è stata modificata una frase sul dietro che indica il punto di inizio della lavorazione dei diagrammi. Buon lavoro!

25.05.2024 - 09:28

country flag Cori wrote:

Avete scritto che è stato aggiornato lo schema A2, però non c'è scritto cosa è stato corretto perché quando vado a fare le diminuzione mi vengono diversi perché non riesco a capire grazie

24.05.2024 - 00:37

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Cori, è stata modificata una frase sul dietro che indica il punto di inizio della lavorazione dei diagrammi. Buon lavoro!

25.05.2024 - 09:28

country flag Heléne wrote:

Hej igen, Tack för uppdaterat diagram. Stämmer det alltså att jag inte ska virka några smygmaskor på ena sidan, dvs A.2a? Allt väl :)

05.04.2024 - 12:48

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Heléne. Ja, det stemmer :) mvh DROPS Design

15.04.2024 - 07:41

country flag Helene wrote:

Hej, likt flera andra förstår jag inte A.2c och A.2a. Om det ska bli jämt måste jag börja (A.2a) och sluta (A.2c) samma varv (2:a varvet) med smygmaskor. Hur gör jag då med varv 3, fäster jag och börjar om med ny tråd/garn efter smygmaskorna? Förstår inte? Tacksam för hjälp :)

31.03.2024 - 14:46

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Helene, diagram A.2 er nu opdateret :)

05.04.2024 - 12:10

country flag Patricia wrote:

You have lovely patterns and some one is selling many on ebay co uk ( perhaps the original designer? ) this pattern is listed as Item number 385584358366 Seller lithiumsmummy

12.09.2023 - 01:41

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Patricia, thanks for noticing, please help us reporting the sale of our patterns to Ebay. Thank you.

12.09.2023 - 09:27

country flag Jay Y wrote:

Hi, Many thanks for your reply! I have worked mine, and they do look different & it's why I asked the question. One side has 7 stitches bound off as a lead in, the other side has only 4 stitches bound off as a lead in (on size 'M')? That's where my both sides don't match??? What am I doing wrong?!

30.07.2023 - 10:27

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jay, yes, they each look different, but since as you join this piece with the front piece both of them will complement each other, making an armhole with 11 stitches on each side. So just continue as usual. Happy crochetting!

31.07.2023 - 18:48

country flag Jay Y wrote:

Hi, I'm really confused with the armhole shaping and am stuck! Why is the armhole shaping different on the lefthand and righthand side - the shaping (as per the diagram A.2c & A.2a) are different shapes both sides? I must be missing something, but can't work out what??? HELP would be much appreciated as I'm at a standstill! Thanks in advance.

28.07.2023 - 13:56

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jay, the shaping is not different, A.2a simply includes some of the A.1b repeats so it seems bigger. Meanwhile A.2c only has the stitches to bind-off so it seems smaller. The armholes, once worked, will look the same, don't worry about it. Happy crochetting!

29.07.2023 - 17:02

country flag Monika wrote:

Vychází mi jedna strana vyšší než druhá. Návodu nerozumím. Když vlevo háčkuju krátké sloupky (A2c a A2a) a ve stejné řadě na konci háčkuju dlouhé sloupky, nemůžu mít obě strany stejně vysoké. Prosím o vysvětlení. Dekuji

08.07.2023 - 21:01

country flag Minna Peltonen wrote:

Moi kysyisin tälläistä ett voiko ton topin tehdä jämä-langoista, joita on jäänyt edellisistä virkkuu töistä? Kun multa löytyy sellainen iso kerä, johon oon kerinnyt jämä Paris langat yhteen niin ajattelin kysyä tälläistä ett voiko ton topin L-kokoiseksi käyttäen sitä lankakerää, koska tulisi käytettyä ne jämä langat johonkin.

20.06.2023 - 17:25

DROPS Design answered:

Voit tehdä topin jäännöslangoista, kunhan sinulla on riittävästi lankaa. Toppiin menee n. 450-500 grammaa lankaa, kun teet sen L-kokoiseksi.

20.06.2023 - 18:36

country flag Jillian Dunlop wrote:

How much yarn would I need use if I only used one colour. For an xs and s.

26.05.2023 - 15:54

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jillian, for sizes XS/S you would need approx. 250-300gr of one colour. Happy crocheting!

28.05.2023 - 17:00