DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.80£. Read more.

Morgenbris Cardigan

Knitted jacket in DROPS Air. The piece is worked top down with raglan, V-neck and lace pattern on the sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 239-11
DROPS Design: Pattern ai-429
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

YARN:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300-300-350-400-400-450 g colour 01, off white

BUTTONS:
DROPS BUTTONS NO 600: 4 items in all sizes.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 80 cm.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Magic loop – See the technique here
Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

RAGLAN:
Increase 1 stitch on each side of 2 stocking stitches (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches) in each transition between body and sleeves (= 8 stitches increased on the row). Increase by making 1 yarn over. On the next row purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch on the body and into the pattern on the sleeves.

V-NECK:
All increases are worked from the right side!
Make 1 yarn over inside the 1 edge stitch (= 1 stitch increased). On the next row (wrong side) purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. Increase 2 stitches on each increase-row (1 stitch on each side).

BUTTONHOLES (right band):
Work 4 buttonholes.
1 buttonhole = knit 2 together and make 1 yarn over which is knitted on the next row to leave a hole.
The bottom buttonhole is 6 cm from the bottom edge and the top buttonhole where the V-neck begins. The other 2 buttonholes are worked evenly between these first 2.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE.
The yoke is worked back and forth with circular needle, from mid front and top down. The sleeves are worked with lace pattern. Stitches are increased for the V-neck and raglan. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle, top down. The neck and bands are worked to finish.

YOKE:
Cast on 68-70-72-74-76-78 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm and DROPS Air. Purl 1 row from the wrong side.

OVERVIEW OF THE NEXT SECTION:
Start the pattern on the sleeves at the same time as increasing for raglan and for the V-neck – read the next section before continuing.

Insert 4 marker-threads without working the stitches, inserted between 2 stitches. These are used when increasing for raglan.

Count 3 stitches (= front piece), insert marker-thread, count 19 stitches (= sleeve), insert marker-thread, count 24-26-28-30-32-34 stitches (= back piece), insert marker-thread, count 19 stitches (= sleeve), insert marker-thread, there are 3 stitches left after the last marker-thread (= front piece).

Work as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, knit 1, increase 1 stitch for RAGLAN – read description above, knit 2, increase 1 stitch for raglan, work A.1, A.2, A.3, increase 1 stitch for raglan, knit 2, increase 1 stitch for raglan, knit 22-24-26-28-30-32, increase 1 stitch for raglan, knit 2, increase 1 stitch for raglan, work A.1, A.2, A.3, increase 1 stitch for raglan, knit 2, increase 1 stitch for raglan, knit 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.

Continue with stocking stitch on the front and back pieces, lace pattern on the sleeves and increase for raglan every 2nd row (every row from the right side) a total of 25-26-28-31-34-36 times on each side of the marker-threads. Each time A.1 and A.3 are finished in height, there are 2 more repeats of A.2 in width.

V-NECK:
AT THE SAME TIME on row 6 (3rd row from the right side) increase for the V-NECK on each side towards mid-front – read description above, as follows: Increase every 4th row 6-7-8-9-10-11 times, then every 6th row 4 times. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
After the last increase for raglan continue working without further increases until the yoke measures 23-24-25-28-31-33 cm; the neck-increases should now be finished. There are now 288-300-320-348-376-396 stitches.

Work the first 39-41-44-48-52-55 stitches (front piece), place the next 67-69-73-79-85-89 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 10-12-12-14-16-20 stitches (in side under sleeve), work 76-80-86-94-102-108 stitches (back piece), place the next 67-69-73-79-85-89 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 10-12-12-14-16-20 stitches (in side under sleeve), work the last 39-41-44-48-52-55 stitches (front piece). The piece is now measured from here!

BODY:
= 174-186-198-218-238-258 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side for a further 16-17-18-17-16-16 cm. Knit 1 row from the right side and increase 38-38-46-50-50-54 stitches evenly spaced = 212-224-244-268-288-312 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 4 mm. Work as follows from the wrong side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, purl 2 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 8 cm. Cast off a little loosely. The jacket measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm from the shoulder.

SLEEVES:
Place the 67-69-73-79-85-89 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle size 5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the new stitches cast on under the sleeve = 77-81-85-93-101-109 stitches. Continue A.2; the stitches which do not fit into the pattern under the sleeve are worked in stocking stitch. Work until the sleeve measures 31-31-30-27-25-23 cm from the division. Cast off a little loosely.

BANDS/NECK:
Insert 1 marker mid-back of neck; this is used when knitting up stitches for the bands and neck. The bands are knitted up inside the 1 edge stitch on the front pieces and in the first row worked around the neck.
Start from the right side, at the bottom of the right front piece and knit up 113-117-121-125-129-133 stitches as far as the marker mid-back, using circular needle size 4. Knit up 113-117-121-125-129-133 stitches down to the bottom of the left front piece; the stitch number should be divisible by 4 + 2 = 226-234-242-250-258-266 stitches. If you knit up too many stitches, the bands will be loose, knit up too few stitches and the bands will be tight.
Work as follows from the wrong side: 2 stitches in garter stitch, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 4 stitches left, purl 2 and 2 stitches in garter stitch. When the bands measures 1 ½ cm work the BUTTONHOLES on the right band – read description above. Continue working until the rib measures 3 cm. Cast off a little loosely.

Sew the buttons onto the left band.

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over which is purled on the next row to leave a hole
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted-together stitches
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (9)

country flag Hélène Landry wrote:

Combien de balles de laine pour ce modèle 6????

23.11.2023 - 14:08

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Landry, vous trouverez la quantité nécessaire pour chaque taille, au poids, sous l'en-tête, avec les tailles, les boutons, les aiguilles et l'échantillon; autrement dit, en taille S, il faut ici 300 g DROPS Air / 50 g la pelote = 6 pelotes en taille S. Bon tricot!

23.11.2023 - 15:45

country flag Loccufier Veerle wrote:

2herhalingen breien vanA 2 in de breedte begrijp niet waar die steken zijn va A 2 en in de breedte breien is patroon morgenbris de sweater

14.10.2023 - 16:43

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Veerle,

Als je de telpatronen helemaal hebt gebreid op de mouw, dan begin je opnieuw met de telpatronen, dus A.1, A.2 en A.3, maar omdat je nu meer steken hebt op de naald om het patroon in te breien, brei je nog 2 keer A.2 tussen A.1 en A.3.

15.10.2023 - 17:26

country flag Sylvie wrote:

Je vous ai pas précisé que ces m sont dans les b m qui correspondent aux manches. Merci pour votre aide

24.05.2023 - 20:57

country flag Sylvie wrote:

Bonjour Au rg 3 il me reste 4 m (ce sont les m augmentées au 1er rg) comment dois je les tricoter. Merci pour votre réponse

24.05.2023 - 20:56

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sylvie, vous parlez bien des diagrammes A.1, A.2 et A.3 tricotés pour les manches? Au 1er rang, vous faites 1 jeté avant A.1 et 1 jeté après A.3; au rang suivant (sur l'envers), vous tricotez ces mailles à l'envers (elles figurent dans les diagrammes); au 3ème rang, tricotez les diagrammes de nouveau comme indiqué:A.1 (sur 6 m cette fois), A.2et A.3 (sur 7 mailles). Notez que sur ce rang, la dernière maille de A.1 se tricote avec les 2 premières mailles de A.2 (le 1er jeté est maintenant la 1ère m de A.2), et ainsi de suite. Bon tricot!

25.05.2023 - 08:54

country flag Mylana wrote:

Doing v neck - for the last part of v neck increases, am i supposed to do 2 more no v neck rows?

12.04.2023 - 04:02

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mylana, not sure what you mean here sorry, for V-neck you increase 6 to 11 times on every 4th row then 4 times on every 6th row -piece will be divided when it measures 23 to 33 cm (see size), if increases for neck are done, continue without increasing for neck (just for raglan) then continue without increasing to this measurement. Hope it can help. Happy knitting!

12.04.2023 - 08:42

country flag Agnès wrote:

Sakura

21.01.2023 - 17:44

country flag Melanie wrote:

Moonlight

21.01.2023 - 11:42

country flag Viviana wrote:

Mi piacciono molto le maniche

17.01.2023 - 18:24

country flag Charlotta Palmblad Pedernera wrote:

Ths one could be called Midnight sun

17.01.2023 - 11:35