Sweet Spring Cardigan by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket in 2 strands DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down with raglan, V-neck, cables and lace pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.

Keywords: assembly free, cable, jacket, lace, long sleeves, oversized, raglan, top down, v-neck

DROPS 241-11
DROPS Design: Pattern ks-207
Yarn group A + A or C
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

YARN:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
175-200-200-225-250-275 g colour 47, pistachio ice cream

BUTTONS:
DROPS BUTTONS NO 601: 3 items in all sizes.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stocking stitch and 2 strands = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Magic loop – See the technique here
Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk

from 3.20 £ /25g

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	DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour	3.20 £ /25g Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd	Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 22.40£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

RAGLAN:
Increase 1 stitch before/after the stitch in stocking stitch (= the stitch with the marker) in each transition between body and sleeves. Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, which is purled twisted on the next row to avoid a hole. Work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

V-NECK:
All increases are worked from the right side!
Make 1 yarn over inside 11 stitches (1 edge stitch + A.1 / A.3 on each side (= 1 stitch increased on each side; 2 stitches increased on the row). On the next row (wrong side) purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid a hole. Work the new stitches in stocking stitch.
DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker-thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker-thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.
BUTTONHOLES (on right band when jacket is worn):
Decrease 3 buttonholes on the right band.
1 buttonhole = knit 2 together, make 1 yarn over. On the next row knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
Work the buttonholes 8, 16 and 24 cm from the bottom edge.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The yoke is worked back and forth with circular needle, top down. The sleeves are worked with cables and lace pattern. At the same time, stitches are increased for the V-neck and raglan. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle. The neck and bands are worked to finish.

YOKE:
Cast on 72-74-76-78-80-82 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 5 mm and 2 strands DROPS Kid-Silk. Purl 1 row from the wrong side.

OVERVIEW OF THE NEXT SECTION:
The pattern starts on the sleeves at the same time as increases are worked for raglan and for the V-neck – read this section before continuing.
Insert 4 markers in the piece, without working the stitches:
Count 3 stitches (front piece), insert 1 marker in the next stitch, count 22 stitches (sleeve), insert 1 marker in the next stitch, count 18-20-22-24-26-28 stitches (back piece), insert 1 marker in the next stitch, count 22 stitches (sleeve), insert 1 marker in the next stitch, there are 3 stitches left (front piece).

Work as follows: 1 edge stitch IN GARTER STITCH – see description above, work A.1, 1 yarn over, knit the marker-stitch, 1 yarn over, A.2, 1 yarn over, knit the marker-stitch, 1 yarn over, work stocking stitch over the next 18-20-22-24-26-28 stitches, 1 yarn over, knit the marker-stitch, 1 yarn over, work A.2, 1 yarn over, knit the marker-stitch, 1 yarn over, work A.3, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.

Continue this pattern and increase to RAGLAN in each transition between body and sleeves on each row from the right side – read description above. When A.2 is finished, work A.4 (26 stitches) over A.2. When A.1 and A.3 have been worked 1 time in height, repeat the last 4 rows onwards.

Increase for raglan a total of 10-13-15-15-21-22 times on every other row (= on every row from right side) on each side of all 4 marker-stitches. Then continue to increase for raglan but every 2nd increase is now only on the body (4 stitches increased), i.e. increase every 2nd row on the body and every 4th row on the sleeves). Increase like this 14-14-14-16-14-16 times on the body (7-7-7-8-7-8 times on the sleeve). You increase a total of 24-27-29-31-35-38 times on the yoke and 17-20-22-23-28-30 times on the sleeves.

AT THE SAME TIME on the row marked with an arrow in A.1/ A.3, start to increase for the V-NECK on each side – read description above: Increase every 8th-8th-8th-6th-6th-6th row 2-2-3-4-5-6 times. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
After the last increase for raglan continue working until the yoke measures 22-25-27-29-33-36 cm. There are 264-290-310-326-366-390 stitches.

Divide for the body and sleeves on the next row as follows:
Work the first 38-41-44-47-52-56 stitches (front piece), place the next 60-66-70-72-82-86 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 16-16-16-20-20-22 stitches (in side under sleeve), work the next 68-76-82-88-98-106 stitches (back piece), place the next 60-66-70-72-82-86 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 16-16-16-20-20-22 stitches (in side under sleeve), work the last 38-41-44-47-52-56 stitches (front piece). The piece is now measured from here!

BODY:
= 176-190-202-222-242-262 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side and A.1 /A.3. When the body measures 16-15-15-15-13-12 cm from the division, knit 1 row from the right side and increase 28-34-42-46-46-50 stitches evenly spaced = 204-224-244-268-288-312 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 4 mm and work as follows from the wrong side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, purl 2 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 8 cm. Cast off a little loosely. The jacket measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm from the shoulder.

SLEEVES:
Place the 60-66-70-72-82-86 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 16-16-16-20-20-22 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 76-82-86-92-102-108 stitches. Insert a marker-thread in the middle of the 16-16-16-20-20-22 stitches under the sleeve and allow it to follow your work onwards; it is used when decreasing under the sleeve.
Start at the marker-thread. Continue with A.4 and stocking stitch in the round.
When the sleeve measures 3 cm decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2½-2-1½-1-1-1 cm a total of 10-11-13-16-19-20 times = 56-60-60-60-64-68 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 37-35-33-32-28-25 cm from the division or to desired length.
Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 8 cm. Cast off a little loosely. The sleeve measures approx. 45-43-41-40-36-33 cm from the division.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

BANDS/NECK:
Insert 1 marker in the middle of the neck on the back piece; it is used to mark half the stitches on the neck/bands. The bands are knitted up inside the 1 edge stitch on the front piece, the neck in the first row on the neckline.
Begin from the right side at the bottom of the right front piece and knit up 119-125-131-137-143-149 stitches as far as the marker at the back of the neck, with circular needle size 4 mm (leave the marker in place). Knit up 119-125-131-137-143-149 stitches down to the bottom of the left front piece; total number of stitches should be divisible by 4 + 2 = 238-250-262-274-286-298 stitches. It is important that the rib is neither loose with too many stitches nor tight with too few stitches.
Work as follows from the wrong side: 2 garter stitches, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 4 stitches left, purl 2 and 2 garter stitches. Work this rib for 1½ cm. Now work the BUTTONHOLES on the right band – read description above. Continue working until the rib measures 3 cm. Cast off a little loosely.

Sew the buttons onto the left band.

Diagram

	= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
	= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over which is knitted/purled twisted on the next row to avoid a hole
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over which is knitted/purled on the next row to leave a hole
	= knit 2 together
	= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
	= place 5 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 5, knit 5 from cable needle
	= start to increase for V-neck

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 241-11) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ).

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

2) What are the yarn groups?

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

8) What is a repeat?

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

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