Country Cheer by DROPS Design

Crocheted top in DROPS Belle. Piece is worked bottom up. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 231-41
DROPS design: Pattern vs-091
Yarn group B
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 88-96-104-114-126-138 cm = 34 5/8"-37 3/4"-41"-45"-49 1/2"-54 1/4"
Full length: 42-44-46-48-50-52 cm = 16 1/2"-17 1/4"-18"-19"-19 3/4"-20 1/2"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
250-250-250-300-300-350 g color 04, dandelion

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4 MM = US 6.

CROCHET GAUGE:
18 double crochets in width and 9 rows vertically = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE! Remember that hook size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger hook. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller hook.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 3.05 $ /50g
DROPS Belle uni colour DROPS Belle uni colour 3.05 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.25$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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CROCHET TIP FOR CHAIN STITCHES:
If you work at the end of crochet hook the chain stitch will often be too tight.
1 chain stitch should be just as long as 1 single crochet/double crochet is wide.

CROCHET INFORMATION:
At the beginning of every row with double crochets work 3 chain stitches (they replace first double crochet), i.e. skip first double crochet from previous row. Work last double crochet on row in 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of previous row.
At the beginning of every row with single crochets work 1 chain stitch (to replace first single crochet) i.e. skip first stitch from previous row. Work last single crochet on row in 3rd chain stitch from beginning of previous row.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sides on front and back piece):
Increase 1 double crochet by working 2 double crochets in same double crochet. Increase inside 1 double crochet in each side. Continue the increased stitches in double crochets.

DECREASE TIP:
WORK 2 DOUBLE CROCHETS TOGETHER AS FOLLOWS:
* Make 1 yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, get yarn, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through the 2 first loops on hook *, crochet from *-* 2 times in total, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook (= 1 stitch decreased).

WORK 3 DOUBLE CROCHETS TOGETHER AS FOLLOWS:
*Make 1 yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, get yarn, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through the 2 first loops on hook *, crochet from *-* 3 times in total, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through all 4 loops on hook (= 2 stitches decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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TOP - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work front and back piece back and forth separately, bottom up. Sew parts together when finished.

BACK PIECE:
Work 74-80-88-96-108-118 CHAIN STITCHES - read explanation above, on hook size 4 MM = US 6 with DROPS Belle. Work 1 double crochet in 4th chain stitch from hook (= 2 double crochets) - read CROCHET INFO, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 70-76-84-92-104-114 chain stitches = 72-78-86-94-106-116 double crochets. Work 1 double crochet in every double crochet. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
When piece measures 8 cm = 3 1/8", increase 1 double crochet in each side - read INCREASE TIP!
Increase like this every 4-4-4-5-5-5 cm = 1 1/2"-1 1/2"-1 1/2"-2"-2"-2" 4 times in total = 80-86-94-102-114-124 stitches. When piece measures 22-23-24-25-26-27 cm = 8 3/4"-9"-9 1/2"-9 3/4"-10 1/4"-10 5/8", work an edge as follows:
ROW 1:
Work 3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in 2nd double crochet, * 1 chain stitch, skip 1 double crochet, 1 double crochet in next double crochet *, work from *-* the entire row.
ROW 2:
Work 1 double crochet in every double crochet and 1 double crochet around every chain stitch.
ROW 3:
Work 3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in 2nd double crochet, * 1 chain stitch, skip 1 double crochet, 1 double crochet in next double crochet *, work from *-* the entire row.
ROW 4: Work 1 single crochet in every double crochet and 1 single crochet around every chain stitch. Cut and fasten the yarn.

FRONT PIECE:
Work 74-80-88-96-108-118 chain stitches on hook size 4 MM = US 6 with DROPS Belle. Work 1 double crochet in 4th chain stitch from hook (= 2 double crochets) - read CROCHET INFO, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 70-76-84-92-104-114 chain stitches = 72-78-86-94-106-116 double crochets. Work 1 double crochet in every double crochet. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
When piece measures 8 cm = 3 1/8", increase 1 double crochet in each side - read INCREASE TIP!
Increase like this every 4-4-4-5-5-5 cm = 1 1/2"-1 1/2"-1 1/2"-2"-2"-2" 4 times in total = 80-86-94-102-114-124 stitches. When piece measures 26-27-28-29-30-31 cm = 10 1/4"-10 5/8"-11"-11 3/8"-11 3/4"-12 1/4", work next row as follows: Work slip stitches over the first 8-8-9-10-13-15 double crochets on row, work until 8-8-9-10-13-15 double crochets remain on row = 64-70-76-82-88-94 double crochets. Turn piece. Now divide the front piece, and finish each part separately.

LEFT FRONT PIECE (when garment is worn):
Work from the side as follows: Work 1 double crochet in first double crochet, work the next 2 double crochets together (= 1 double crochet decreased) - read DECREASE TIP, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 25-28-31-34-37-40 double crochets, work the next 3 double crochets together, work 1 double crochet in last double crochet. Turn and work from mid front, AT THE SAME TIME decrease 2 stitches towards mid front and 1 stitch towards the side on every row as explained above. Decrease like this way until 5 double crochets remain. On next row work the first 2 double crochets together into 1 double crochet, and the last 3 double crochets together into 1 double crochet = 2 double crochets. Cut and fasten the yarn.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE (when garment is worn):
Begin mid front where front piece was divided, work 1 double crochet in first double crochet, work the next 3 double crochets together (= 2 double crochets decreased), work 1 double crochet in each of the next 25-28-31-34-37-40 double crochets, work the next 2 double crochets together (= 1 double crochet decreased), work 1 double crochet in last double crochet. Turn and work from the side, AT THE SAME TIME decrease 2 stitches towards mid front and 1 stitch towards the side on every row as explained above. Decrease like this way until 5 double crochets remain on row. On next row work the first 2 double crochets together into 1 double crochet, and the last 3 double crochets together into 1 double crochet = 2 double crochets. Fasten off.

CROCHET EDGE FRONT PIECE-1:
Work 4 rows with double crochets / double crochets + chain stitch at the top in opening mid front. Begin at the top on left part of front piece, work down towards mid front and up along the side on right front piece.
ROW 1: Begin at the top on left front piece. Work 3 chain stitch at the top in first double crochet, 1-2-1-2-1-2 double crochets in next double crochet towards mid front (2-3-2-3-2-3 double crochets have been worked in the 2 double crochets from the tip on left front piece), then work 3 double crochets around every row with double crochets down until where piece was divided, work 2 double crochets between parts (mid front), but work these double crochets together into 1 double crochet, then work 3 double crochets around every row with double crochets up to the top of right front piece, work 2-3-2-3-2-3 double crochets at the top of right front piece = 32-36-38-42-44-48 double crochets on each side of the middle double crochet worked together and 65-73-77-85-89-97 double crochets in total on row. Turn.
ROW 2: Work 3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in 2nd double crochet, * 1 chain stitch, skip 1 double crochet, 1 double crochet in next double crochet *, work from *-* until 3 double crochets remain mid front, skip the next 5 double crochets (the middle of these is the 2 double crochets worked together into 1), work 1 double crochet in next double crochet, * 1 chain stitch, skip 1 double crochet, 1 double crochet in next double crochet *, work from *-* until 3 double crochets remain on row, work 1 chain stitch and skip next double crochet, work 1 double crochet in each of the last 2 double crochets = 60-68-72-80-84-92 stitches.
ROW 3: Work 3 chain stitches, work 1 double crochet in every double crochet and 1 double crochet in every chain stitch until 2 double crochets remain towards mid front, skip the next 4 double crochets, work 1 double crochet in every double crochet and 1 chain stitch in every chain stitch the entire row = 56-64-68-76-80-88 double crochets.
ROW 4: Work 3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in 2nd double crochet, * 1 chain stitch, skip 1 double crochet, 1 double crochet in next double crochet *, work from *-* until 2 double crochets remain down to mid front, skip the next 4 double crochets, work 1 double crochet in next double crochet, * 1 chain stitch, skip 1 double crochet, 1 double crochet in next double crochet *, work from *-* until 3 double crochets remain on row, work 1 chain stitch and skip next double crochet, work 1 double crochet in each of the last 2 double crochets = 52-60-64-72-76-88 stitches. Cut the yarn.

STRAPS:
Begin at the top of tip on right front piece, work 3 chain stitches + 2 double crochet around the outermost double crochet (= 3 double crochets). Continue back and forth with 1 double crochet in every double crochet (first double crochet replace 3 chain stitches) until strap measures approx. 18-19-20-21-22-23 cm = 7"-7 1/2"-8"-8 1/4"-8 3/4"-9", try the top and adjust the length on strap. Cut the yarn, and work a similar strap on left front piece.

CROCHET EDGE FRONT PIECE-2:
Work a row with single crochets along the entire opening on front piece. Begin in right side where double crochets were skipped for armhole (seen from the front when garment is flat), work up along left front piece/strap, over double crochet at the top of strap, down the strap/left front piece, up along right front piece/strap, over double crochets at the top of strap, down the strap/right front piece, and over double crochets skipped for armhole on left side. Work 1 single crochet in every double crochet and 2 single crochets around every row with double crochets. Cut and fasten the yarn.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew side seams but leave 6 cm = 2 3/8" at the bottom in each side = vents. Sew straps from front piece to back piece.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 231-41) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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5) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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6) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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7) What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

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8) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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9) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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10) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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11) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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13) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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14) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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15) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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16) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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17) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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18) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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19) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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20) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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21) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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22) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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23) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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24) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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25) Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (13)

country flag Landre wrote:

Bonjour je comprend pas votre explication: «RANG 1: 1-2-1-2-1-2 brides dans la bride suivante côté encolure (on a ainsi 2-3-2-3-2-3 brides dans les 2 brides de la pointe du devant gauche), puis crocheter 3 brides autour de chaque rang de brides en descendant jusqu'à la pointe en bas de l'encolure, à la division de l'ouvrage, crocheter 2 brides entre les deux demi-devants (milieu devant),

12.10.2023 - 22:04

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Landre, commencez par 3 ml (= 1ère bride), puis 1 ou 2 brides (cf taille) dans la bride suivante en haut du devant (pour avoir 2 ou 3 brides à la pointe du devant gauche), crochetez ensuite 3 brides autour de la 1ère /de la dernière bride de chacun des rangs le long du devant gauche, entre les 2 devants (en bas de l'encolure), crochetez 2 brides écoulées ensemble, vous remontez ensuite le long du devant droit comme pour le devant gauche = 3 brides autour de chaque 1ère/dernière bride le long du devant droit et vous terminez par 2 ou 3 brides en haut du devant droit (comme au début du rang). Bon crochet!

13.10.2023 - 08:40

country flag Katell wrote:

Bonjour je bloque je ne comprend pas ce qu'il faut faire a ce moment là :"Tourner. Diviser maintenant le devant, et terminer chaque partie séparément." Est ce que c'est l'idée qu'il faut crocheter une demie partie du devant jusqu'à une bretelle ?

22.07.2023 - 14:29

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Katell, vous allez maintenant former l'encolure et donc terminer chaque côté séparément: crocheter d'abord le devant gauche puis le devant droit. Bon crochet!

27.07.2023 - 11:51

country flag Rouzic wrote:

Bonjour, comment s\'explique le fait que côté gauche devant il y ait des mailles coulées mais pas côté droit devant ?\r\nMerci de votre réponse

25.06.2023 - 15:59

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Rouzic, c'est une technique fréquemment utilisées pour diminuer des mailles de chaque côté; retrouvez-en la démonstration dans cette vidéo; si vous ne souhaitez pas de mailles coulées, il vous faudra couper le fil, sauter le nombre de mailles indiquées au début du rang puis joindre le fil et continuer comme indiqué (sans crocheter les dernières mailles du rang pour former les emmanchures de la même façon de chaque côté). Bon crochet!

26.06.2023 - 09:18

country flag Maggi wrote:

Fin oppskrift! Jeg skjønte ikke hellingen langs kanten, hekle 1-2-1-2, hva betyr det?😊

29.04.2023 - 07:59

country flag Anna wrote:

Beautiful pattern thanks Jeanette!!!!! Here are my photos and credit to you, you can use my photos: instagram.com/p/Chw2Zhos9GS/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

31.08.2022 - 14:06

DROPS Design answered:

Thank you very much Anna, please submit your pictures using that form here to our DROPS Gallery. Thanks again!

31.08.2022 - 15:15

country flag Anna wrote:

Beautiful pattern \r\nHere are my photos and credit to you\r\n instagram.com/p/Chw2Zhos9GS/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

31.08.2022 - 14:05

country flag Maria wrote:

So in every row from the armpit side I start with 1 treble and after decreasing 2 stitches and for every mid side im decreasing 3 stitches and finishing with 1 treble stitch until to have 5? Or I should start with ch 3? Sorry for the spam!!

13.06.2022 - 15:20

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Maria, you will decrease on every row: 2 sts towards neck (either after the first stitch (3 chains) at the beginning of the row from neck or before the last treble at the end of the row from armhole towards neck) and at the same time, decrease 1 stitch before the last stitch as the end of the row (from the neck towards armhole) or after the first stich (3 chains) at the beg of row from the armhole towards neck). Happy crocheting!

13.06.2022 - 16:31

country flag Maria wrote:

LEFT FRONT PIECE, Turn and work from mid front, AT THE SAME TIME decrease 2 stitches towards mid front and 1 stitch towards the side on every row( what do you mean here) as explained above. I can't understand this at all, am I doing any chain at the beginning of every row? And after this it's in every row at the beginning decrease 2 and at the end 3? Thank you 🙂

10.06.2022 - 22:58

country flag Cathleen Castaneda wrote:

When measuring to do the next increase, do I measure from the bottom of the last increase row or the top of the last increase row?

06.06.2022 - 01:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Cathleen, you measure from the beginning of the row. Happy knitting!

06.06.2022 - 13:31

country flag Mariel wrote:

In the tension the width is correct but the height is wrong! (More than 10cm) I cant understand what im doing wrong 🙃

04.06.2022 - 10:43

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mariel, if you have more than 10 cm in 9 rows, it means you are working too loosely in height. You can calculate to work fewer rows than indicated, according to your gauge. Happy crocheting!

04.06.2022 - 18:13

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