DROPS Andes
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 4.70 £ /100g

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DROPS Buttons
Charred No. 536

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Get the yarn to make this pattern from 61.10£.

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Water Point

Knitted jacket in DROPS Andes. Piece is knitted top down with raglan and V-neck. Size XS – XXL.

Highlight Size:

DROPS 226-44

#waterpointjacket

DROPS design: Pattern an-065
Yarn group E or C + C
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SIZE:
XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS ANDES from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
700-800-800-900-1000-1100 g colour 7130, sea green

DROPS BUFFELHORN BUTTON NO 536: 5 pieces for all sizes

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 9 mm : Length 40 and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 7 mm: Length: 80 cm
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 9 mm
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 7 mm
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
10 stitches in width and 14 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE! Remember that needle size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP-1 (applies to sides of body):
All increases are done from the right side!
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over. On next row purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

INCREASE TIP-2 (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 102 stitches), minus edge stitches (e.g. 2 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 5) = 20.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after every 20th stitch. On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

RAGLAN:
All increases are done from the right side.
Increase 1 stitch on each side of stitch with marker (= a total of 8 stitches increased on row): Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next row purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

CAST-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight cast-off edge when casting off, you may use a larger needle. If this still is too tight make 1 yarn over after approx. every 6th stitch while casting off (cast off yarn overs as stitches).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work yoke back and forth on circular needle from mid front, work top down. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Work body back and forth on circular needle. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle. Work bands at the end.

YOKE:
Cast on 36-38-38-40-40-42 stitches on circular needle size 9 mm with DROPS Andes. Purl 1 row from wrong side.
Insert a marker after 18-19-19-20-20-21 stitches (= mid back on back piece), measure yoke from this marker!

Now insert 4 markers in the piece without working the stitches. Insert markers in a stitch between body and sleeves:
Skip the 2 first stitches, insert a marker in next stitch, skip the next 8 stitches, insert a marker in next stitch, skip the next 12-14-14-16-16-18 stitches, insert a marker in next stitch, skip the next 8 stitches, insert a marker in next stitch. 2 stitches remain on round after last marker.

Now work in stocking stitch back and forth with 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH in each side – read explanation above, at the same time on first row begin increase for raglan and on third row begin increase for V-neck – increase as explained below.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!

RAGLAN:
On first row increase for RAGLAN – read explanation above. Increase like this every other row 15-15-17-18-19-21 times in total.

V-NECK:
On third row begin increase for V-neck.
Increase as follows from right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 1, make 1 yarn over, work until 2 stitches remain on needle, make 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
On next row purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
Increase like this every 4th row 5-6-6-7-7-8 times in total.

When all increases for raglan and V-neck are done, there are 166-170-186-198-206-226 stitches on row. Work until piece measures 23-23-25-27-29-31 cm from marker mid back.
Now divide piece for body and sleeves as follows:
Work the first 22-23-25-27-28-31 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 40-40-44-46-48-52 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 4-6-6-6-8-8 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work the next 42-44-48-52-54-60 stitches (= back piece), slip the next 40-40-44-46-48-52 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 4-6-6-6-8-8 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve) and work the last 22-23-25-27-28-31 stitches.
Now finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 94-102-110-118-126-138 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the new stitches cast-on in the side under the sleeves (= 2-3-3-3-4-4 new stitches on each side of marker thread). Move the marker threads upwards when working; they should be used for increase later in the sides.
Continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side towards mid front.
When piece measures 5 cm from division, increase 1 stitch on each side of marker thread in each side - read INCREASE TIP-1. Repeat increase when piece measures 15 cm = 102-110-118-126-134-146 stitches. Work until piece measures 32-34-34-34-34-34 cm from division.
Knit 1 row from right side while increasing 5-5-7-7-9-9 stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP-2 = 107-115-125-133-143-155 stitches.
Switch to circular needle size 7 mm. Work rib follows (begin from wrong side): 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, (purl 1/knit 1) until 2 stitches remain, purl 1, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this until rib measures 7 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl and garter stitch over garter stitch, read CAST-OFF TIP.
Jacket measures approx. 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm from shoulder and down.

SLEEVES:
Slip the 40-40-44-46-48-52 stitches from stitch holder in one side on a short circular needle/double needles size 9 mm and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 4-6-6-6-8-8 new stitches cast on in the side under sleeve = 44-46-50-52-56-60 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the new stitches under sleeve (= 2-3-3-3-4-4 new stitches on each side of marker thread). Move the marker thread upwards when working - marker threads should be used for decrease mid under sleeve.
Continue in the round in stocking stitch.
When piece measures 2 cm, decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every other row 6-6-8-8-10-11 times in total, then every 4th row 1 time in total in all sizes = 30-32-32-34-34-36 stitches.
Work until sleeve measures 35-35-34-32-31-29 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke).
Switch to double pointed needles size 7 mm. Work rib (knit 1/purl 1) in the round for 4 cm.
Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - remember CAST-OFF TIP.
Sleeve measures 39-39-38-36-35-33 cm from division. Work the other sleeve the same way.

RIGHT BAND:
Begin from right side at the bottom on right front piece with circular needle size 7 mm and DROPS Andes. Pick up 93-109 stitches inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch along right front piece and up to mid back on back piece (number of stitches must be divisible by 2 + 1 stitch).
Purl 1 row from wrong side – increase with yarn over right were first decrease for V-neck begun by working as follows: * Purl 1, make 1 yarn over *, work from *-* 2 times (= 2 stitches increased) – on next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
Now work rib as follows from right side:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until 2 stitches remain on needle, knit 1 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue rib back and forth like this until band measures 1½-2 cm. Now decrease for
5 buttonholes evenly in all sizes. Place top buttonholes approx. 1 cm below were decrease for V-neck began, and bottom buttonhole approx. 7 cm from bottom edge.
1 buttonhole = make 1 yarn over and work 2 stitch together.

Continue with rib until band measures approx. 4 cm. Cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl.

LEFT BAND:
Begin from right side mid back of neck with circular needle size 7 mm and DROPS Andes. Pick up 93-109 stitches inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch along edge and down along left front piece (number of stitches must be divisible by 2 + 1 stitch).
Purl 1 row from wrong side – increase with yarn over right were first decrease for V-neck begun by working as follows: * Purl 1, make 1 yarn over *, work from *-* 2 times (= 2 stitches increased) – on next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
Now work rib as follows from right side:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until 2 stitches remain on needle, knit 1 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue rib back and forth like this until band measures approx. 4 cm - adjust length according to right band. Cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to left band. Sew band together mid back.

Diagram

© 1982-2025 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Water Point

Julie Anne Scott, Afghanistan

Comments / Questions (15)

Matilda wrote:

Förstår inte riktigt hur jag ska göra avmaskningarna i ärmarna. Räta på räta, o avig på avig. Hur gör jag detta?

21.09.2024 - 23:17

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Matilda. Da feller du rettmaskene som rett og vrangmaskene som vrang. Ta gjerne en titt på hjelpevideoen: Hur man maskar av i resår (du finner videor til høyre / eller under bildet). mvh DROPS Design

23.09.2024 - 14:12

Geo wrote:

Guten Tag, Welcher Schwierigkeitsgrad ist diese Jacke mit Raglan und V- Ausschnitt? Ich wollte falsches Patent stricken, habe eine längere Pause. Auch muss ich aufgrund der Maschenprobe umrechnen... herzlich und danke für eine Antwort.

20.09.2024 - 22:50

Liebe Geo, lesen Sie aufmerksam die ganze Anleitung, schauen Sie die Videos / Lektion (siehe Tab oben), und wenn Sie Fragen haben, dann können Sie sie gerne hier stellen; Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

23.09.2024 - 07:46

Parisa wrote:

Hei. Jeg trenger veiledning i forbindelse med oppskrift på Drops Design 226-44 . Har kjøpt riktig garn og pinner fra deres nettbutikk. Kan noen svare på mine spørsmål? Takk på forhånd

08.01.2024 - 14:28

Hej Parisa, ja skriv hvilken størrelse du strikker, hvor du er i opskriften, hvor mange masker du har og hvad du vil have hjælp med, så svarer vi så hurtigt som muligt :)

09.01.2024 - 15:33

Fatma KISRANE wrote:

BONJOUR JE VOUDRAIS TRICOTER CE GILET EN AIGUILLE NUMERO 6 QUELLE TAILLE DEVRAIS JE PRENDRE POUR LE TRICOTER MERCI

17.09.2023 - 18:05

Bonjour Mme Kisrane, ce modèle se tricote sur la base de 10 mailles x 14 rangs jersey = 10 x 10 cm; si vous n'avez pas cet échantillon, il vous faudra recalculer les explications sur la base de votre échantillon et des mesures du schéma. Retrouvez plus d'infos sur l'échantillon ici - vous pouvez également utiliser notre moteur de recherches pour trouver des modèles qui conviendrait à votre tension, en utilisant en référence votre nombre de mailles pour 10 cm. Bon tricot!

18.09.2023 - 15:55

Bonjour je suis entrain de tricoter ce gilet en taille XXL j ai mis les marqueurs 3+9+19+9+2 est ce que je les ais bien positionner . et pourquoi il reste 2 mailles a la fin et pas 3 mailles comme aux debut merci

15.09.2023 - 19:51

Bonjour Mme Kisrane, vos marqueurs doivent se présenter ainsi, chacun dans une maille: 2+1+8+1+18+1+8+1+2=42 m, 4 m avec chacune un marqueur, 2 m pour chaque devant, 8 m pour chaque manche et 18 m pour le dos. Bon tricot!

18.09.2023 - 08:00

Bonjour je n est pas compris l augmentaion de mailles vert le col v quand ton tricote la bordure a quel endroit exactement doit ont l augmenter

12.09.2023 - 22:18

Bonjour Mme Kisrane, on augmente pour l'encolure V à 2 mailles des bords; tricotez 1 m lisière au point mousse, 1 m endroit, faites 1 jeté (pour augmenter en début de rang), tricotez les mailles suivantes jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 2 mailles, faites 1 jeté et terminez par 1 m end et 1 m lisière au point mousse. Bon tricot!

13.09.2023 - 08:30

Natalia GonzalezRehahn wrote:

Ich verstehe nicht, warum die Blende in zwei Teilen gestrickt und dann im Nacken zusammen genäht wird. Kann man nicht die Blendenmaschen von rechts unten bis durchgehend links unten auf einmal aufnehmen und die Blende in einem Stück arbeiten? Im Voraus vielen Dank.

01.02.2023 - 10:22

Liebe Frau GonzalezRehahn, es würde dann sehr viele Maschen aufgefassen, aber gerne können Sie die Maschen von den beiden Blenden nuf auf einmal auffassen und stricken - beachten Sie, nur daß die Maschenanzahl das Bündchen passt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

01.02.2023 - 14:18

Sophie wrote:

Hej! Ingen fråga om mönster, men...Har stickat denna jättefina kofta i Andes garn; vågar jag tvätta den i maskin på hand/ulltvätt? Centrifugera? Den är ganska tung. Vänligen Sophie.

19.01.2023 - 11:33

Hei Sophie. Anbefaler å følge vaskeanvisningen. Håndvask, maks 30°C. Press/klem ut vannet og legg det flatt til tørk, men unngå å tørke plagget på underlag som suger til seg fuktighet, som for eksempel frottéhåndklær. Da kan plagget miste sin naturlige elastisitet. Om du ikke må vaske plagget, kan det fint bare henges ut til lufting, Andes er nærmest selvrensende. mvh DROPS Design

23.01.2023 - 08:28

Nelleke wrote:

Kan ik ook de halsboord en voorpandboorden meteen eraan vast breien? In plaats van los op het eind?

12.09.2022 - 13:42

Dag Nelleke,

Dat zou kunnen, maar daarvoor zijn nogal wat aanpassingen nodig in het patroon en helaas is het voor ons niet mogelijk om patronen aan te passen naar persoonlijke wensen. Misschien kun je een patroon vinden die dat wel heeft.

14.09.2022 - 12:02

Water Point

Knitted jacket in DROPS Andes. Piece is knitted top down with raglan and V-neck. Size XS – XXL.

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Pattern instructions

Diagram

How to work a jumper top down

How to read a size chart

How to read knitting diagrams

How to measure the knitting tension and how to calculate a pattern

How to increase/decrease evenly!

Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

How can I get help with a DROPS pattern?

How to change yarns or yarn amounts

How to choose yarn

How to cast on

How to knit stitches

How to work purl stitches

How to decrease stitches

How to cast off from the right side

How to cast off from the wrong side

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Water Point

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Comments / Questions (15)

Water Point

Knitted jacket in DROPS Andes. Piece is knitted top down with raglan and V-neck. Size XS – XXL.

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	DROPS Andes uni colour 65% Wool, 35% Alpaca	4.70 £ /100g	Order
	DROPS Andes mix 65% Wool, 35% Alpaca	5.00 £ /100g	Order

	DROPS Andes uni colour 65% Wool, 35% Alpaca 4.70 £ /100g Order
	DROPS Andes mix 65% Wool, 35% Alpaca 5.00 £ /100g Order