DROPS / 228 / 6

Diamond Fire by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper in DROPS Alpaca or DROPS BabyMerino. The piece is worked top down with double neck, saddle shoulders, split in the sides and cables. Sizes S - XXXL.

  • Diamond Fire / DROPS 228-6 - Knitted jumper in DROPS Alpaca or DROPS BabyMerino. The piece is worked top down with double neck, saddle shoulders, split in the sides and cables. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Diamond Fire / DROPS 228-6 - Knitted jumper in DROPS Alpaca or DROPS BabyMerino. The piece is worked top down with double neck, saddle shoulders, split in the sides and cables. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Diamond Fire / DROPS 228-6 - Knitted jumper in DROPS Alpaca or DROPS BabyMerino. The piece is worked top down with double neck, saddle shoulders, split in the sides and cables. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Diamond Fire / DROPS 228-6 - Knitted jumper in DROPS Alpaca or DROPS BabyMerino. The piece is worked top down with double neck, saddle shoulders, split in the sides and cables. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS Design: Pattern no z-942
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
350-400-450-500-550-600 g colour 9026, blush

Or use:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
350-400-450-450-500-550 g colour 48, blush

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 40 cm and 60-60-80-80-80-80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 60 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Wool
from 3.10 £ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.70£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.1).

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 120 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 26) = 4.6. 
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 4th and 5th stitch. On the next round/row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2:
AFTER MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the left.
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous round, pick up the front strand and knit in the back loop.
BEFORE MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the right.
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous round, pick up the back strand and knit in the front loop.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves): 
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (2 stitches decreased).

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 6th stitch at the same time as casting off; the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, from the right shoulder and top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body is continued in the round with circular needle as far as the split, then the front and back pieces are finished separately, back and forth. The sleeves are worked with double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down.

DOUBLE NECK:
Loosely cast on 120-124-130-134-138-146 stitches with short circular needle size 3 mm and DROPS Alpaca or DROPS Baby Merino. Knit 1 round. Change to short circular needle size 2.5 mm and work rib in the round (knit 1 twisted, purl 1) for 9 cm.
When the rib is finished, knit 1 round where you increase 26-26-24-24-24-20 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 146-150-154-158-162-166 stitches.

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 3 mm.
Insert 4 markers as follows, without working the stitches and inserted between 2 stitches. These markers are used when increasing for the shoulders.

Marker 1: Insert the marker in the beginning of the round, before the first stitch (= transition between back piece and right sleeve). All following rounds start by this marker.
Marker 2: Count 30-30-30-34-34-34 stitches from marker 1 (= shoulder), insert the marker before the next stitch.
Marker 3: Count 43-45-47-45-47-49 stitches from marker 2 (= front piece), insert the marker before the next stitch.
Marker 4: Count 30-30-30-34-34-34 stitches from marker 3 (= shoulder), insert the marker before the next stitch.
There are 43-45-47-45-47-49 stitches left on the back piece after marker 4.
Allow these markers to follow your work onwards; they are used when increasing for the shoulders.

INCREASES TO SADDLE SHOULDERS:
You will now work pattern at the same time as increasing for the saddle shoulders. Read the whole section before continuing! REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
FIRST ROUND:
Work A.1 as far as marker 2 (= 30-30-30-34-34-34 stitches), increase AFTER marker 2– read INCREASE TIP-2, work stocking stitch as far as marker 3, increase BEFORE marker 3, work A.1 as far as marker 4 (= 30-30-30-34-34-34 stitches), increase AFTER marker 4, work stocking stitch as far as marker 1, increase BEFORE marker 1.
4 stitches have been increased for the shoulders – the increases are on the front and back pieces; the number of shoulder stitches remains the same. The increased stitches are worked in stocking stitch.
Continue the pattern and increase like this every round a total of 24-26-28-32-34-36 times = 242-254-266-286-298-310 stitches. There are 91-97-103-109-115-121 stitches on the front and back pieces and 30-30-30-34-34-34 stitches on each shoulder.
The piece measures approx. 8-8-9-10-11-11 cm from the marker on the neck.

INCREASES TO SLEEVES:
Move each marker so they sit between 2 stitches shown by the arrows in A.1 (= 2 markers on each shoulder).
In addition, insert a marker thread at the beginning of the round; marks the beginning of the round since marker 1 has been moved.
FIRST ROUND:
Work A.2 (= 8 stitches – A.2 continues over the cable in A.1), increase AFTER marker 1, work stocking stitch as far as marker 2, increase BEFORE marker 2, work A.3 (= 8 stitches – A.3 continues over the cable in A.1), work 1-4-1-4-1-4 stitches in stocking stitch, A.4A (= 9 stitches), work A.4B over the next 72-72-84-84-96-96 stitches (= 6-6-7-7-8-8 repeats of 12 stitches), work A.4C (= 8 stitches), work 1-4-1-4-1-4 stitches in stocking stitch, work A.2 (= 8 stitches – A.2 continues over the cable in A.1), increase AFTER marker 3, work stocking stitch as far as marker 4, increase BEFORE marker 4, work A.3 (= 8 stitches – A.3 continues over the cable in A.1), work 1-4-1-4-1-4 stitches in stocking stitch, A.4A (= 9 stitches), A.4B over the next 72-72-84-84-96-96 stitches (= 6-6-7-7-8-8 repeats of 12 stitches), A.4C (= 8 stitches) and work 1-4-1-4-1-4 stitches in stocking stitch.
You have increased 4 stitches for the sleeves; the number of stitches on the front and back pieces remains the same. The increased stitches are worked in stocking stitch.
Continue the pattern and increase like this every round a total of 9-8-9-6-11-6 times = 278-286-302-310-342-334 stitches.
The piece measures approx 10-11-12-12-14-13 cm from the marker on the neck.

INCREASES TO YOKE:
Move the 4 markers so they sit in the middle of each A.2 and A.3.
On the next round increase 8 stitches as before, but just before and just after each A.2 and A.3 (increase 1 stitch when 4 stitches remain before each marker and increase 1 stitch 4 stitches after each marker).
You are now increasing on the front and back pieces as well as the sleeves; the increased stitches are worked in stocking stitch.
Increase like this every 2nd round a total of 9-12-14-18-18-23 times = 350-382-414-454-486-518 stitches.
When all the increases are finished, the piece measures approx. 16-18-20-23-25-28 cm from the neck.
Continue working without further increases until the piece measures 20-22-24-25-27-29 cm for the neck – AT THE SAME TIME, on the last round decrease 8 stitches on the round by decreasing 2 stitches in each A.2/A.3 (knit together the 4 stitches in the cable 2 and 2) = 342-374-406-446-478-510 stitches.
Divide for the body and sleeves on the next round as follows: Start 3-4-5-6-3-5 stitches before A.2 at the beginning of the round, place the next 68-74-82-90-94-98 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches (= in side under sleeve), work as before over the next 103-113-121-133-145-157 stitches (= front piece), place the next 68-74-82-90-94-98 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches (= in side under sleeve) and work the last 103-113-121-133-145-157 stitches as before (= back piece). The body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 222-242-262-286-314-338 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches cast on under each sleeve = 111-121-131-143-157-169 stitches between the threads. Allow the marker threads to follow your work onwards – they will later mark the split in each side.
Work the first round as follows: 11-16-15-21-22-28 stitches in stocking stitch, continue A.4 over the next 89-89-101-101-113-113 stitches, 22-32-30-42-44-56 stitches in stocking stitch (marker thread sits in the middle of these stitches), continue A.4 over the next 89-89-101-101-113-113 stitches, 11-16-15-21-22-28 stitches in stocking stitch.
Continue this pattern in the round until A.4 has been worked 4-4-4-4-4-5 times in height, then work the first round in A.4. The piece measures approx. 33-33-34-35-36-42 cm from after the neck.
Continue with stocking stitch over all stitches until the piece measures 19 cm from the division. There is 10 cm left to finished length; try the jumper on and work to desired length.
Now divide the piece for the split in each side. Keep the first 111-121-131-143-157-169 stitches on the needle (= front piece). Place the other stitches on a thread or extra needle.

FRONT PIECE:
= 111-121-131-143-157-169 stitches.
To avoid the following rib being tight, knit 1 row from the wrong side where you increase 34-36-40-42-48-50 stitches evenly spaced – remember INCREASE TIP = 145-157-171-185-205-219 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 2.5 mm and work rib as follows:
ROW 1 (wrong side): 3 edge stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * purl 1 twisted, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 4 stitches left, purl 1 twisted and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch.
ROW 2 (right side): 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, * knit 1 twisted, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 4 stitches left, knit 1 twisted and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 until the rib measures 10 cm. Cast off from the right side with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl – read CASTING-OFF TIP!
The jumper measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from the shoulder down.

BACK PIECE:
Place the 111-121-131-143-157-169 stitches from the thread/extra needle back on circular needle size 3 mm. Knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 34-36-40-42-48-50 stitches evenly spaced = 145-157-171-185-205-219 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 2.5 mm and work rib as follows:
ROW 1 (wrong side): 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1 twisted, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 4 stitches left, purl 1 twisted and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch.
ROW 2 (right side): 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, * knit 1 twisted, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 4 stitches left, knit 1 twisted and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 until the rib measures 10 cm. Cast off from the right side with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl – remember CASTING-OFF TIP!

SLEEVES:
Place the 68-74-82-90-94-98 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles/short circular needle size 3 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 76-82-92-100-106-110 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve. Allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing under the sleeve.
Start at the marker thread and work stocking stitch in the round.
When the piece measures 2 cm from the division, decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 1½ cm a total of 3-5-8-12-15-18 times, then every 4th round 4-4-4-3-2-0 times = 62-64-68-70-72-74 stitches.
Continue working until the sleeve measures 36-34-33-33-32-30 cm from the division. There is 8 cm left to finished length; try the jumper on and work to desired length.
Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and work rib (knit 1 twisted, purl 1) for 8 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember CASTING-OFF TIP!
The sleeve measures approx. 44-42-41-41-40-38 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the neck double to the inside and sew down. To avoid the neck being tight and rolling outwards, it is important that the seam is elastic.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 06.09.2021
Correction diagram text to 5th and 6th symbol.

Diagram

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = place 2 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle,
symbols = place 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
symbols = place 1 stitch on cable needle in front of piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle
symbols = place 1 stitch on the cable needle behind piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle
symbols = place 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 1, knit the left stitch on the cable needle (the stitch is worked at the back of the piece), then knit the other stitch so it lies diagonally in front of the other 2 stitches
symbols = saddle shoulder increases
symbols = sleeve increases
symbols = yoke increases
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 228-6) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (25)

country flag Judith 17.10.2021 - 23:34:

Kan het zijn dat de beschrijving van de eerste naald van het voorpand niet klopt? Eén naald recht aan de verkeerde kant? Er ontstaat een ribbel; dat zie ik niet terug op de foto, de beschrijving voor het achterpand is recht aan de goede kant

user icon DROPS Design 19.10.2021 kl. 13:11:

Dag Judith,

Ja, dit moet inderdaad de goede kant zijn in plaats van de verkeerde kant. Ik heb het doorgegeven aan de ontwerpafdeling ter controle. Bedankt voor het doorgeven en veel breiplezier!

country flag Janka 15.10.2021 - 15:24:

Czy wykończenie dekoltu w tym swetrze może być pojedyncze i czy wtedy wystarczy tylko robić ściągacz przez mniej cm? Czy w tym wypadku potrzebne są jeszcze jakieś zmiany?

user icon DROPS Design 16.10.2021 kl. 14:07:

Witaj Janko, wystarczy jak wykonasz krótszy ściągacz. Pozdrawiamy!

country flag Anita 13.10.2021 - 11:09:

Ik gebruik baby merino maar kom helemaal niet uit met de lengte, breedte en aantal steken. Dat heb ik normaal nooit ( en ik brei veel drops patronen). Ik ben al over gegaan naar naald 3 en 3,5 , maar heb het nu weer afgehaald om maar een maat groter te breien. Is dit een bekend probleem met dit patroon?

country flag Natalie Brophy 10.10.2021 - 17:59:

Hi. I like the suggestion that just the 80cm length circular needles can be used. What is the Magic Loop technique and how would it be used in this pattern?

user icon DROPS Design 10.10.2021 kl. 22:14:

Dear Natalie, you can find out more about this technique in THIS/a> tutorial video. Happy Stitching!

country flag Algreth 08.09.2021 - 04:17:

Greetings! I have another question. When increasing to yoke, should I continue the A2/A3 pattern or work A4 only?

user icon DROPS Design 08.09.2021 kl. 07:45:

Dear Mrs Algreth, continue working A.2 and A.3 (and A.4) as before, they are for the raglan lines. Happy knitting!

country flag Algreth 06.09.2021 - 15:50:

Hello! Is the diagram A.4 correct? I've started this pattern and it feels twisted. Looks like the symbols are wrong: symbol 1 = place 1 stitch on cable needle behind the piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle symbol 2 = place 1 stitch on the cable needle in front of piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle Symbol 1 should be symbol 2 and s2 should be s1. Is this so?

user icon DROPS Design 06.09.2021 kl. 16:34:

Dear Ms Algreth, you are right, thanks for noticing, the diagram key to 5th and 6th symbols have been now updated. happy knitting!

country flag Jutta 05.09.2021 - 11:21:

Wo genau müssen die Markierer für die passe hin? Ich habe zwischen A2und A3 genau 30 rechte Maschen. Genau die Mitte wäre 15, aber nur für einen Markierer? Wo kommt denn der 2.hin?da steht :jeder mqrkierer(4)genau zwischen A2und A3

user icon DROPS Design 06.09.2021 kl. 07:50:

Liebe Jutta, es sind 8 Maschen in A.2 und A.3, die Markierung sollen jetzt in der Mitte von A.2/A.3 sein, dh so: 4 Maschen A.2/A.3, die Markierung hier einsetzen, 4 Maschen A.2/A.3. Alle 4 Markierungen sollen so eingesetze werden, dh in der Mitte von jedem A.2/A.3. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Jutta 02.09.2021 - 23:20:

Was bedeutet denn: in jeder Runde in xxxx in der Höhe zunehmen? Wenn ich 4 m zunehme pro runde, nehme ich die doch in der Breite zu. Warum in der Höhe? Das passiert doch automatisch bei jeder Runde.

user icon DROPS Design 03.09.2021 kl. 07:27:

Liebe Jutta, es wird jeweils 4 Maschen in der Breite zugenommen (Sattelschulter), diese Zunahmen werden dann 24 bis 36 x wiederholt (= in der Höhe gestrickt). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Veronique 16.08.2021 - 16:24:

J’adore ce modèle. Je propose un nom: un thé au Sahara

country flag Tanja Balling Sørensen 14.08.2021 - 15:51:

Elegant romance

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