DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 3.75 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 26.25€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Diamond Fire

Knitted jumper in DROPS Alpaca or DROPS BabyMerino. The piece is worked top down with double neck, saddle shoulders, split in the sides and cables. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 228-6
DROPS Design: Pattern no z-942
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
350-400-450-500-550-600 g colour 9026, blush

Or use:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
350-400-450-450-500-550 g colour 48, blush

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 40 cm and 60-60-80-80-80-80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 60 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 3.75 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 26.25€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.1).

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 120 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 26) = 4.6. 
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 4th and 5th stitch. On the next round/row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2:
AFTER MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the left.
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous round, pick up the front strand and knit in the back loop.
BEFORE MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the right.
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous round, pick up the back strand and knit in the front loop.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves): 
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (2 stitches decreased).

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 6th stitch at the same time as casting off; the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, from the right shoulder and top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body is continued in the round with circular needle as far as the split, then the front and back pieces are finished separately, back and forth. The sleeves are worked with double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down.

DOUBLE NECK:
Loosely cast on 120-124-130-134-138-146 stitches with short circular needle size 3 mm and DROPS Alpaca or DROPS Baby Merino. Knit 1 round. Change to short circular needle size 2.5 mm and work rib in the round (knit 1 twisted, purl 1) for 9 cm.
When the rib is finished, knit 1 round where you increase 26-26-24-24-24-20 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 146-150-154-158-162-166 stitches.

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 3 mm.
Insert 4 markers as follows, without working the stitches and inserted between 2 stitches. These markers are used when increasing for the shoulders.

Marker 1: Insert the marker in the beginning of the round, before the first stitch (= transition between back piece and right sleeve). All following rounds start by this marker.
Marker 2: Count 30-30-30-34-34-34 stitches from marker 1 (= shoulder), insert the marker before the next stitch.
Marker 3: Count 43-45-47-45-47-49 stitches from marker 2 (= front piece), insert the marker before the next stitch.
Marker 4: Count 30-30-30-34-34-34 stitches from marker 3 (= shoulder), insert the marker before the next stitch.
There are 43-45-47-45-47-49 stitches left on the back piece after marker 4.
Allow these markers to follow your work onwards; they are used when increasing for the shoulders.

INCREASES TO SADDLE SHOULDERS:
You will now work pattern at the same time as increasing for the saddle shoulders. Read the whole section before continuing! REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
FIRST ROUND:
Work A.1 as far as marker 2 (= 30-30-30-34-34-34 stitches), increase AFTER marker 2– read INCREASE TIP-2, work stocking stitch as far as marker 3, increase BEFORE marker 3, work A.1 as far as marker 4 (= 30-30-30-34-34-34 stitches), increase AFTER marker 4, work stocking stitch as far as marker 1, increase BEFORE marker 1.
4 stitches have been increased for the shoulders – the increases are on the front and back pieces; the number of shoulder stitches remains the same. The increased stitches are worked in stocking stitch.
Continue the pattern and increase like this every round a total of 24-26-28-32-34-36 times = 242-254-266-286-298-310 stitches. There are 91-97-103-109-115-121 stitches on the front and back pieces and 30-30-30-34-34-34 stitches on each shoulder.
The piece measures approx. 8-8-9-10-11-11 cm from the marker on the neck.

INCREASES TO SLEEVES:
Move each marker so they sit between 2 stitches shown by the arrows in A.1 (= 2 markers on each shoulder).
In addition, insert a marker thread at the beginning of the round; marks the beginning of the round since marker 1 has been moved.
FIRST ROUND:
Work A.2 (= 8 stitches – A.2 continues over the cable in A.1), increase AFTER marker 1, work stocking stitch as far as marker 2, increase BEFORE marker 2, work A.3 (= 8 stitches – A.3 continues over the cable in A.1), work 1-4-1-4-1-4 stitches in stocking stitch, A.4A (= 9 stitches), work A.4B over the next 72-72-84-84-96-96 stitches (= 6-6-7-7-8-8 repeats of 12 stitches), work A.4C (= 8 stitches), work 1-4-1-4-1-4 stitches in stocking stitch, work A.2 (= 8 stitches – A.2 continues over the cable in A.1), increase AFTER marker 3, work stocking stitch as far as marker 4, increase BEFORE marker 4, work A.3 (= 8 stitches – A.3 continues over the cable in A.1), work 1-4-1-4-1-4 stitches in stocking stitch, A.4A (= 9 stitches), A.4B over the next 72-72-84-84-96-96 stitches (= 6-6-7-7-8-8 repeats of 12 stitches), A.4C (= 8 stitches) and work 1-4-1-4-1-4 stitches in stocking stitch.
You have increased 4 stitches for the sleeves; the number of stitches on the front and back pieces remains the same. The increased stitches are worked in stocking stitch.
Continue the pattern and increase like this every round a total of 9-8-9-6-11-6 times = 278-286-302-310-342-334 stitches.
The piece measures approx 10-11-12-12-14-13 cm from the marker on the neck.

INCREASES TO YOKE:
Move the 4 markers so they sit in the middle of each A.2 and A.3.
On the next round increase 8 stitches as before, but just before and just after each A.2 and A.3 (increase 1 stitch when 4 stitches remain before each marker and increase 1 stitch 4 stitches after each marker).
You are now increasing on the front and back pieces as well as the sleeves; the increased stitches are worked in stocking stitch.
Increase like this every 2nd round a total of 9-12-14-18-18-23 times = 350-382-414-454-486-518 stitches.
When all the increases are finished, the piece measures approx. 16-18-20-23-25-28 cm from the neck.
Continue working without further increases until the piece measures 20-22-24-25-27-29 cm for the neck – AT THE SAME TIME, on the last round decrease 8 stitches on the round by decreasing 2 stitches in each A.2/A.3 (knit together the 4 stitches in the cable 2 and 2) = 342-374-406-446-478-510 stitches.
Divide for the body and sleeves on the next round as follows: Start 3-4-5-6-3-5 stitches before A.2 at the beginning of the round, place the next 68-74-82-90-94-98 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches (= in side under sleeve), work as before over the next 103-113-121-133-145-157 stitches (= front piece), place the next 68-74-82-90-94-98 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches (= in side under sleeve) and work the last 103-113-121-133-145-157 stitches as before (= back piece). The body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 222-242-262-286-314-338 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches cast on under each sleeve = 111-121-131-143-157-169 stitches between the threads. Allow the marker threads to follow your work onwards – they will later mark the split in each side.
Work the first round as follows: 11-16-15-21-22-28 stitches in stocking stitch, continue A.4 over the next 89-89-101-101-113-113 stitches, 22-32-30-42-44-56 stitches in stocking stitch (marker thread sits in the middle of these stitches), continue A.4 over the next 89-89-101-101-113-113 stitches, 11-16-15-21-22-28 stitches in stocking stitch.
Continue this pattern in the round until A.4 has been worked 4-4-4-4-4-5 times in height, then work the first round in A.4. The piece measures approx. 33-33-34-35-36-42 cm from after the neck.
Continue with stocking stitch over all stitches until the piece measures 19 cm from the division. There is 10 cm left to finished length; try the jumper on and work to desired length.
Now divide the piece for the split in each side. Keep the first 111-121-131-143-157-169 stitches on the needle (= front piece). Place the other stitches on a thread or extra needle.

FRONT PIECE:
= 111-121-131-143-157-169 stitches.
To avoid the following rib being tight, knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 34-36-40-42-48-50 stitches evenly spaced – remember INCREASE TIP-1 = 145-157-171-185-205-219 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 2.5 mm and work rib as follows:
ROW 1 (wrong side): 3 edge stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * purl 1 twisted, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 4 stitches left, purl 1 twisted and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch.
ROW 2 (right side): 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, * knit 1 twisted, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 4 stitches left, knit 1 twisted and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 until the rib measures 10 cm. Cast off from the right side with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl – read CASTING-OFF TIP!
The jumper measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from the shoulder down.

BACK PIECE:
Place the 111-121-131-143-157-169 stitches from the thread/extra needle back on circular needle size 3 mm. Knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 34-36-40-42-48-50 stitches evenly spaced - remember INCREASE TIP-1 = 145-157-171-185-205-219 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 2.5 mm and work rib as follows:
ROW 1 (wrong side): 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1 twisted, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 4 stitches left, purl 1 twisted and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch.
ROW 2 (right side): 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, * knit 1 twisted, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 4 stitches left, knit 1 twisted and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 until the rib measures 10 cm. Cast off from the right side with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl – remember CASTING-OFF TIP!

SLEEVES:
Place the 68-74-82-90-94-98 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles/short circular needle size 3 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 76-82-92-100-106-110 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve. Allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing under the sleeve.
Start at the marker thread and work stocking stitch in the round.
When the piece measures 2 cm from the division, decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 1½ cm a total of 3-5-8-12-15-18 times, then every 4th round 4-4-4-3-2-0 times = 62-64-68-70-72-74 stitches.
Continue working until the sleeve measures 36-34-33-33-32-30 cm from the division. There is 8 cm left to finished length; try the jumper on and work to desired length.
Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and work rib (knit 1 twisted, purl 1) for 8 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember CASTING-OFF TIP!
The sleeve measures approx. 44-42-41-41-40-38 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the neck double to the inside and sew down. To avoid the neck being tight and rolling outwards, it is important that the seam is elastic.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 06.09.2021
Correction diagram text to 5th and 6th symbol.

Diagram

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = place 2 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle,
symbols = place 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
symbols = place 1 stitch on cable needle in front of piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle
symbols = place 1 stitch on the cable needle behind piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle
symbols = place 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 1, knit the left stitch on the cable needle (the stitch is worked at the back of the piece), then knit the other stitch so it lies diagonally in front of the other 2 stitches
symbols = saddle shoulder increases
symbols = sleeve increases
symbols = yoke increases
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (68)

country flag Elly wrote:

Trui niet fijn om te dragen, omdat het voorpand net zo hoog is als het ru pand. Dit zorgt voor een lelijke bobbel bij de hals. Heel jammer. Verder heb ook ik de ervaring dat ik het steken aantal van een maat groter moest gebruiken. Omdat de hals zo lelijk is vraag ik om een oplossing voor de voorkant. Graag jullie reactie.

26.03.2024 - 19:05

country flag Florence wrote:

Bonjour, dans quel sens faut-il suivre les diagrammes ? Peut-être qu’avec des aiguilles circulaires il faut les lire de droite à gauche ? Merci

25.03.2024 - 18:05

country flag Florence wrote:

Bonjour, merci pour tous ces jolis modèles que je tricote facilement mais pas cette fois, là j’en suis à Augmentations manches, on nous dit de tricoter A2 au-dessus de A1, que cela continue la torsade. Mais cela veut il dire que la torsade A2 sera dans le sens contraire de A1 ?

25.03.2024 - 17:49

country flag Anita wrote:

Meerderen mouwen voor xxl staat voor deze maat 6 keer herhalen met 334st terwijl xl 11 keer op dat punt moet meerderen met aan het eind 342 st . Klopt dit wel, ik heb er twijfels bij of dit klopt. Hoe zit dit?

09.03.2024 - 16:36

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Anita,

Ja, dat klopt. Je meerdert in totaal 11 keer voor de mouwen op de raglan en je hebt dan op de hele naald (dus op de panden en mouwen) 342 steken staan.

10.03.2024 - 09:49

country flag Christina wrote:

I am knitting Medium. Can you please give me the amount of stiches for respective section when I have reached 374 stiches before the split. For the Braids I have 6x4; for shoulders I have 54x2; for back and front 121x2, totally 374. Is this correct? And, I start with 4 stiches before A.2. Are these 4 included in the following 74 to put on a wire? Or is it 4 to knit and thereafter 74 on a wire? PS can all try to use english? Would save time for all.

27.02.2024 - 07:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Christina, that's correct - the 4 sts before the first A.2 at the beginning of the round belong to sleeve and will be put on a thread for sleeve (a total of 74 sts including these 4 sts). Happy knitting!

27.02.2024 - 09:16

country flag Zsófi wrote:

Hungarian version is incorrect at yoke, it says decresing should be done in each A.2/A.4 instead of A.2/A.3 A magyar változat helytelenül írja le a vállrész fogyasztását, az A2/A4-es mintára írja, az A2/A3 helyett.

05.02.2024 - 20:38

country flag Barbara wrote:

Can your not delete comments you do not like? It would help others to decide on whether spending awful lot of time on knitting this. Constructive criticism improves the site. Do not censor your knitters!

23.01.2024 - 20:39

country flag Chris wrote:

Modell 228-6\r\nPå bilden är mönsterstickningen på fram- och bakstycke. I beskrivningen är det på ärmarna

09.01.2024 - 08:14

country flag Lizzy wrote:

Hello, during the “increases to saddle shoulder” section, the instructions say to increase twice per round on each shoulder near the markers. Is there a specific increase you recommend? I usually do M1R/M1L, but that might not look seamless on stockinette.

01.01.2024 - 04:38

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lizzy, increase to saddle shoulders as explained under INCREASE TIP-2 at the beginning of the pattern. Happy knitting!

02.01.2024 - 11:50

country flag Catherina wrote:

Hallo, werden die Ärmelzunahmen wie die Sattelzunahmen gestrickt (Zunahmetipp2)? Bzw stimmt glatt rechts? Dann entstehen Löcher, die ich auf den Fotos so nicht sehe... Danke für die Hilfe!

07.12.2023 - 11:06

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Catharina, in dieseln Video zeigen wir, wie man für die Sattelschulter (mit Zunahmentip-2) zunimmt; es sollte keine Löcher entstehen; Viel Spaß beim stricken!

08.12.2023 - 08:14